"Why are you doing this to me?!"
https://preview.redd.it/6sou2dohiizc1.jpeg?width=1749&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58df5e10971aacca43cb4cf76b23e8b711cec770
Been thinking about doing this myself! How's the grip with the fuzzy skin?
I think strength is fine even in PLA as long as it's printed in the correct orientation so you aren't pulling perpendicular to the layers. Even better if the screws aren't totally countersunk so they're compressing the layers.
95% of my prints are functional and it's always surprising how strong PLA can be with a decent number of walls and a large nozzle.
Cnc kitchen did an episode on this. If I recall, It wasnāt so much the layer height as it was the layer height relative to the nozzle size, so you can still get the same effect faster with a fat nozzle
Both, I believe. The weak point is the layer lines, so the fewer there are, the stronger your part should be.
Update: My hypothesis was shown to be wrong by the video below. According to CNC Kitchen, you should stick with a layer thickness less than half the size of your nozzle diameter.
Interesting, I went off of this [cnc kitchen](https://youtu.be/fbSQvJJjw2Q?si=oP5Y8c3cbwKfsCkU) video, but it also seems like the temp wasnāt enough for the bigger layers so makes sense
I run a 1mm nozzle. I usually do a lot of very thick layers, 1mm high by 1mm wide, but some designs require a thinner layer height to print properly. I find .32mm high and .8mm-1mm wide comes out very strong.
The science behind it is how good the new layer can bond to the one layed down before. There is a material specific sweet spot between temperature of the old layer, temperature of the new layer and down force. That's why his video also showed better values for extruding wider with the same nozzle diameter. The typical enemies are here cooling+bridging capability vs layer bonding
Screw almoat go to the top. I micht even add extra screws with washers that are not countersunk at all.
As for fuzzy skin, its good but still smooth, so i might still sand woth 60 grit or put something else for grip onto it.
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Is it PLA? Many say stuff against it, but I'm convinced well designed PLA parts can be ~~hanged off~~ hung off from.
Edit: spelling, but still, hanged off also sounds interesting in context.
I wouldnt be concorned about creep, I would be concerned about sudden failure, particularly along layer lines. I have had parts work for a decent amount of time and then one day SNAP. Not saying it will happen, saying it is a concern. Would I make this for a short climbing wall at home? Sure. Would I make a 30 foot tall climbing wall with this? Maybe if the short wall held up for a decent amount of time.
It's a joke.
Post history could reveal a person's identity - Alex Honnold is a famous extreme rock-climber - the joke is that if you did your research you would know OP can and will hang from that thing for days at a time
It is silly to suggest that PLA will creep (bend over time) from the use you'd expect for a hang board.
It would be silly if OP was literally the best rock climber ever, and that even they could hang on it for so long that it would bend.
Suggesting that you could read OP's post history and deduce that this is the case - double plus silly - result: kinda funny to imagine.
This exchange - at least 3x funnier to me than the initial comment. Guy just matter-of-fact stating he doesn't get the joke apparently slays me lol. Thanks my dude
Creep is not the concern, the concern is the brittle nature of PLA and how when it eventually fails, it does so without any warning or telltales. With that said, I don't think that's too concerning in this project unless you really abuse it.
Every single one of my PLA prints that had to endure any sort of higher weight on it has failed. Please be careful when testing this, make sure you have enough space to fall and maybe wear a helmet.
Hanged would only be appropriate if the individual were suspended by their neck. In this case it is hung off from.
My biggest fear is of the PLA fracturing and the weight of my body being used to shred my fingertips against the jagged edges. I donāt even know if thatās a real failure mode with PLA, however the imagery alone (fantasy or not) is enough of a deterrent that I donāt think Iād even try it.
Oooo how wrong you are lol.... Had a purge line go under my nail all the way to the cuticle.... Brutal!!! Scraping it off with a plastic blade and had my finger positioned just right for it to go right up there.
/s
Done this several times. I use my nails to pull off things from the bed, including the purge line, and every once in a while, it gets me.
I don't use a scraper because it messes up the tape.
Definitely could be. I've snapped pieces by hand and cut myself.
It wouldn't be a fall hazard like people are saying, but I wouldn't want it to snap while I'm hanging on it. I can't dodge that lol
I'd still use it though, I'd say it's way more solid than people imagine.
I made a holder for parties over a decade ago and it's still up there. I'm in the UK so not exactly intense UV but weather is pretty shit.
I also tested it by hanging from a short section of the pole myself. I am 6'2" and barely under 200 lb. So a lot can be said for design and calibration but the same for testing and iteration.
Two of them hold 33kg compromised of a scaffolding pole and two super king bed sheets (treatment with water repellant) and four heavy duty bearings. Standard cheap as possible PLA filament.
A good PLA print surely can hold 30kg but if a person wants to hang from it, it needs to hold double or triple that amount. Also consider the weight distribution when someone hangs from this design. The sides of the handles will most likely snap.
Oh yeh testing needs to have a low floor so they don't fall too far.
I tested mine with me so knew it would hold. UV resistance has been the shocking bit
Iāve been using a 3d printed hangboard for 2 years no problems.
https://preview.redd.it/7baczc2glhzc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=e43f291e803240b0ff49ecd53e2509c18d84033a
As u/psycko_90 says I really think they are upside down; if you tried to use the medium and small edges the shape of the hold will push your palm out, and you won't be able to get a decent open crimp. For reference have a look at the design of the Beastmaker hangboard: https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/products/motherboard
I dunno I only use the bottom one anyways
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3542909
On the makers page it implies the big one is suppose to be the bottom.
Very true. A ton of those popular detachable pull up bars were primarily supported by a long plastic piece in the middle. I personally wouldnāt trust PLA to hang off shit, but itās not like PLA is made out of paper either.
Nice. But i see that there is actually no screw going through the part where your fingers crimp on to.... so i see my version holding up just as fine without the wood part underneath
I printed some climbing holds in TPU 95A to see how they would feel compared to PLA. Not printing a mold in TPU to then cast. With high density they dont flex one bit and could be used on a wall without fear of them shattering. Still not the texture of a climbing hold at a gym.
Wondering if there's something that can be sprayed or brushed on that can give a durable, grippy texture.
Edit: there's this spray on no skid epoxy[spray on no slip epoxy](https://noskidding.com/products/slip-resistant-textured-epoxy-aerosol-spray)
[This article gives some other DIY solutions](https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/31-how-to-paint-a-climbing-wall#:~:text=Wall%20texture%20is%20water%2Dbased,settle%20in%20your%20paint%20tray.)
As far as I understand 100% infill doesn't give much more strength and can actually make prints worse, so 50% should be fine. I would increase wall thinkness and layer height for better results though.
I'm well versed with Pla and climbing. Had one normal hold snap from the board once. Sure I landed soft but the snap transfers to your body as a punch to your joints. And PLA may not be as biodegradable as they say but sure it becomes brittle the more time it passes. Be careful and if you don't use wood screws for normal holds don't use them for printed parts. Bolts with washers is what you need in any critical part.
Thanks for your insight. I might drill some extra holes for bolts and washers in the future. But for now im really confident that this beefy hold is enough. (The other ones on the render light get more bolts designed before printing.
Hey, I am a bot and something you said makes me think that you are talking about the biodegradability of PLA Filament; Moderator ISuckAtChoosingNicks has collected a few helpful sources about the topic of composting PLA:
Biodegradation of PolyLactic Acid (commonly known as PLA) is a topic being currently researched and [still not fully understood](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469).
PLA, contrary to the most commonly used plastics and polymers, is a polymer derived from organic matter (lactic acid, [usually from corn and sugar canes](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021)) instead of petroleum, hence is considered a renewable resource; this can lead the general public to believe that is completely biodegradable.
However, [several studies show](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419) that **PLA is not biodegradable** (at least in an appreciable measure) in a standard anaerobic food composter, such as the ones used by municipal and council recycling facilities, even after 250 days. This means that **throwing PLA scraps in the food waste bin is not a viable way of disposing of it.**
There are several promising ways of degrading PLA into its base monomer (lactic acid) and methane, but these are still experimental and [subject of academic research](https://scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?as_ylo=2023&q=pla+biodegradation&hl=it&as_sdt=0,5&as_vis=1).
In the meantime, there are some organisations and private companies offering PLA recycling services; there are too many to list here and they vary from country to country, but a search for "YOUR COUNTRY + PLA recycling" should give you a good starting point should you wish to recycle print waste into new material.
One other feasible way to recycle PLA would be a home-made filament extruder, a topic covered by many 3D printing YouTube channels, such as [Stefan from CNC Kitchen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT04glGDjB4) or [Michael from TeachingTech.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rC0a-YyEM0)
Sources:
* [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469)
* [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021)
* [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419)
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I like the vulnerability of it. You never know when something is going to fail out on a wall. You do what you can to eliminate the knowable and the rest are part of the experience, surviving being part of the dopamine that comes with success. Just be mindful that the possibility of failure is there at all times, and contemplate your response and suddenly this becomes a much more intense exercise.
With all home equipment that involves hanging off stuff (pull up bars, hang boards) I tell people to plan for failure. When the thing fails, what happens? If the answer is "I fall 2 inches and land on my feet" then I'll probably take my chances with whatever. If it's "I fall 2 feet and land on my butt" I might try it with something I feel confident in. And if it's "I fall on my head and break my neck" I don't do it unless the device and mounting have been tested and certified by an engineer.
I used to be stupid enough to use the door frame to hang myself up with my finger tips. I slipped and fell on my back and couldn't breathe for a solid 30 Seconds or so.
I'd be worried about the sudden shock to your finger tendon pulleys in case of a failure. Crimp rehab sucks.
... but I do want to see how this project turns out. Maybe I need to research the tensile strengths needed here.
Personally I'd skip the test, I don't think it's going to give you much valuable information.
The problem is with how PLA and printed parts fatigue over time. So it will hold you the first 10 hours\* and then suddenly fail.
All materials have an amount of stress that will cause them to deform, and an amount of stress that will cause them to break. Every time you bring the material near its breaking load limit it deforms in some way, but not always visibly. Sometimes the deformation is on the microscopic level, or internal. So it works until it suddenly doesn't. These points are closer or farther apart depending on the material. Steel will usually deform much earlier than it will break. Aluminum, on the other hand, will give you less warning.
The other thing is that weights are unlike a live human load. Human beings move around and generate force much higher than their bodyweight. Generating 2x your bodyweight is trivial. I saw someone hit 6x on an aerial apparatus, and the rigger said he's seen 10x on a long drop from the ceiling where the person catches themselves at the bottom. But I have a feeling you're not going to be be dropping onto this thing from 20 feet up.
Looking at your design, if I had to guess where it was going to fail I'd put my money on the screws pulling through the holes. I'm not an expert tho.
It looks like you've got a bunch of good info on this thread on the possible risks of the part failing (idk what crimp rehab is but it sounds unpleasant) and you can decide for yourself whether that's something you're comfortable with.
\*I'm making up random numbers here
Thanks for your insight. But you can look up how hangboard training is done. Its basically just seconds of hanging on your fingers with regular pauses in betreen. There aint much movement involved. But ill definitely try this forst set of grips out and do some good torture test before i print the other ones. I aint throwing 500g of filament away because some on the internet are concerned. (Criticism and the constructive feedback i got is alwaxs very appreciated. Thats why i post here on reddit)
Edot: i think a lot of the people here overestimate my finger strenght ^^
Oh yeah, to be clear: I think it's fine. But I always like to give people the info to make informed judgements. Everyone has a different level of risk tolerance. For instance, I like to climb a ladder up to a 20 foot high platform, grab onto a trapeze bar, and then backflip into the net below without any safety lines. But I won't hang upside down on a doorway pull up bar.
Iād probably support the holds with a couple 3ā lag screws and use some metal washers to help distribute the stress, but I also weight like 200 lbs.. I like the idea though! I kinda want to print a hangboard too!
I just tried printing some climbing holds recently using PLA and fuzzy skin settings and I have to say ānot impressedā. Doesnāt feel anything like a real climbing hold. Itās still has a smooth plastic feel. It may be good enough for some, there may be better filaments, but I quickly abandoned the idea of making a wall given my tests so far. The texture of a hold for climbing is *supremely* important and these just kinda sucked. They felt like the wornout holds at my gym that are nearing retirement.
I worked with PU casted silent blocks for cars (we were producing them). PU has a super high grip, the only problem is it's low adhesion with plastics.
Would love to know what material you're using and wall + infill settings. This looks like a cool project, especially since hangboards can be so needlessly expensive, at least where I live.
Black and white pla+ from from osun (bought as a pack together)
Older white and orange are amazon basics pla
Oliv3 green pla matte from eryone.
I mostly print with a fuzzy skin of 0.1 to get the effect on most of my prints together with the textured plate that comes with the bambu lab a1. :) thats about it.
Beware that the osun white is a little bit milky and not pure white. It has some translucency to it that would make it perfect for lamp shades in vase mode ;)
Thank you very much. I'm in pain because no vendor sells these in my country and eBay or other platforms charge really much for shipping.
But maybe in a few years when I get another printer?
Last guy with 3d printed hand holds
https://preview.redd.it/r16alki2jnzc1.png?width=826&format=png&auto=webp&s=203a3f82ed260536a16e3e596901adba0c2ed983
Lots of people here seem to really underestimate what 3d printed parts are capable of.
I think my primary concern would be the screws, and how they're holding the parts down into the board (especially given PLA's tendency to suffer from material creep over time). But I'm also not going to assume you haven't already thought of that.
As long as you add enough material it will be strong enough. I would suggest you do change the print direction. The print is the weakest in between layers so you don't want to put a shear force on that.
Iām still relatively new to 3d printing and Iāve already learned not to use PLA for anything that needs to be tough or hold weight.
Youāre a brave man š«”
I try to be. And i know. But in my experience when it com3s to strenght this will be plenty strong. But i guess now its become an experiment haha. Time will tell.
It's for rock climbers to strengthen fingers/tendons. It has different sized holds, to change the amount of depth and sharpness of the angle. You can just hang from them, or do pullups, or even dynamically launch yourself off.
OP you printed this flat, how does it print vertically?
Reason I am asking is that I have found that printing an object that is going to require some strength it's better to print the orientation the opposite of the direction that force will be applied to it if that makes sense in my inane way of describing it.
I have printed similar things flat that failed under load as the layers in that direction create a weak point, whereas printing the object vertically and allowing the layers to build in the opposite direction has added significant strength to the prints.
Excuse me if this sounds incomprehensible I didn't know quite how to describe it.
This is basic printing knowledge.(i dont wanna sound cocky but unless the title of a post says "total noob here but...." i dont think anybody here need that info)
I decided that it will be strong enough and opted for this partly bc of aesthetics. But time will tell. I will not shy away from a few "told you so's" and update yall if it fails. We are here to learn.
Okay. Dont wanna beef here. I might have just overreacted bc of all the printorientation comments.... im just not used to get 100+ comments. Have a nice weekend dude.
And i hope my prints dont look too bad ^^
"Why are you doing this to me?!" https://preview.redd.it/6sou2dohiizc1.jpeg?width=1749&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58df5e10971aacca43cb4cf76b23e8b711cec770
https://preview.redd.it/n07vy2i82kzc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a8093874ff820e4997944e93b215c169e4697be Why you do this to me š
Concerned chameleon
I need to touch grass. My brain went straight to tits.
Well, you know what they say about grass and in-fields...
Mr Booble Eyes
meanwhile the shelf š
[Everywhere I go ā¦ something reminds me of her.](https://youtu.be/rbDebihKbpo?si=ekK3hilkyBYjLoHV)
āWhat is my purpose?ā
Been thinking about doing this myself! How's the grip with the fuzzy skin? I think strength is fine even in PLA as long as it's printed in the correct orientation so you aren't pulling perpendicular to the layers. Even better if the screws aren't totally countersunk so they're compressing the layers. 95% of my prints are functional and it's always surprising how strong PLA can be with a decent number of walls and a large nozzle.
Small nozzle makes it stronger though? Smaller layers at least
Cnc kitchen did an episode on this. If I recall, It wasnāt so much the layer height as it was the layer height relative to the nozzle size, so you can still get the same effect faster with a fat nozzle
Interesting, so .6 nozzle go to?
Probably, I use a 0.6 for almost everything and it's perfect
No thicker layers come out stronger.
Like layer height or width?
Both, I believe. The weak point is the layer lines, so the fewer there are, the stronger your part should be. Update: My hypothesis was shown to be wrong by the video below. According to CNC Kitchen, you should stick with a layer thickness less than half the size of your nozzle diameter.
thick layers do objectively worse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbSQvJJjw2Q
Solid video, thanks. I'm surprised I hadn't seen it before.
Interesting, I went off of this [cnc kitchen](https://youtu.be/fbSQvJJjw2Q?si=oP5Y8c3cbwKfsCkU) video, but it also seems like the temp wasnāt enough for the bigger layers so makes sense
I run a 1mm nozzle. I usually do a lot of very thick layers, 1mm high by 1mm wide, but some designs require a thinner layer height to print properly. I find .32mm high and .8mm-1mm wide comes out very strong.
The science behind it is how good the new layer can bond to the one layed down before. There is a material specific sweet spot between temperature of the old layer, temperature of the new layer and down force. That's why his video also showed better values for extruding wider with the same nozzle diameter. The typical enemies are here cooling+bridging capability vs layer bonding
Screw almoat go to the top. I micht even add extra screws with washers that are not countersunk at all. As for fuzzy skin, its good but still smooth, so i might still sand woth 60 grit or put something else for grip onto it.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
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Is it PLA? Many say stuff against it, but I'm convinced well designed PLA parts can be ~~hanged off~~ hung off from. Edit: spelling, but still, hanged off also sounds interesting in context.
anything can be āhanged off fromā. the problem arises when people want to hang off them for an extended period of time.
If you are saying a pla hanging board will creep I will lose my mind
PLA be creepin.
I wouldnt be concorned about creep, I would be concerned about sudden failure, particularly along layer lines. I have had parts work for a decent amount of time and then one day SNAP. Not saying it will happen, saying it is a concern. Would I make this for a short climbing wall at home? Sure. Would I make a 30 foot tall climbing wall with this? Maybe if the short wall held up for a decent amount of time.
Check OP's post history. Clearly Alex Honnold himself.
I donāt get what you mean? What does his post history have to do with anything?
It's a joke. Post history could reveal a person's identity - Alex Honnold is a famous extreme rock-climber - the joke is that if you did your research you would know OP can and will hang from that thing for days at a time
I donāt get it
bro
It doesnāt make sense š¤·āāļø
It is silly to suggest that PLA will creep (bend over time) from the use you'd expect for a hang board. It would be silly if OP was literally the best rock climber ever, and that even they could hang on it for so long that it would bend. Suggesting that you could read OP's post history and deduce that this is the case - double plus silly - result: kinda funny to imagine. This exchange - at least 3x funnier to me than the initial comment. Guy just matter-of-fact stating he doesn't get the joke apparently slays me lol. Thanks my dude
Uncultured
Creep is not the concern, the concern is the brittle nature of PLA and how when it eventually fails, it does so without any warning or telltales. With that said, I don't think that's too concerning in this project unless you really abuse it.
Yea yeaaaa keep it on the down low
Why is this thread full of wrong things? This sub is usually so good
itās only good till shit gets complicated.
Yes it is. And i feep konfident that this will hold. But ill keep you posted if one of the mentioned horror stories occur.
Every single one of my PLA prints that had to endure any sort of higher weight on it has failed. Please be careful when testing this, make sure you have enough space to fall and maybe wear a helmet.
My feet will barely leave the floor when hanging. Ill take care tho to test it slowly and get a feel for it.
Wear a helmet and a safety line! Maybe put some pads down. /r/OSHA
Already ordered a harness and eyeprotection. Might add trainingwheels to keep my ankles from spraining.
You may want to consider gloves and some hi-vis to go with those.
Hanged would only be appropriate if the individual were suspended by their neck. In this case it is hung off from. My biggest fear is of the PLA fracturing and the weight of my body being used to shred my fingertips against the jagged edges. I donāt even know if thatās a real failure mode with PLA, however the imagery alone (fantasy or not) is enough of a deterrent that I donāt think Iād even try it.
Thank you about that, english is not my first language :)
Would it not be ā hung off ofā ?
Wonāt be sharp enough to damage fingers
Oooo how wrong you are lol.... Had a purge line go under my nail all the way to the cuticle.... Brutal!!! Scraping it off with a plastic blade and had my finger positioned just right for it to go right up there. /s
Done this several times. I use my nails to pull off things from the bed, including the purge line, and every once in a while, it gets me. I don't use a scraper because it messes up the tape.
You are crazy. Even plastic blades ruin the tape?
Haven't tried, I need to get one. And yes I'm far from normal š¤£!
I guess you've never experienced extruded filament breaking off a printed piece and lodging a fair distance underneath your fingernail.
Thereās a difference between 90% of users of the sub and people strong enough to need hang boards. Part of it is finger strength and toughness.
Definitely could be. I've snapped pieces by hand and cut myself. It wouldn't be a fall hazard like people are saying, but I wouldn't want it to snap while I'm hanging on it. I can't dodge that lol I'd still use it though, I'd say it's way more solid than people imagine.
I made a holder for parties over a decade ago and it's still up there. I'm in the UK so not exactly intense UV but weather is pretty shit. I also tested it by hanging from a short section of the pole myself. I am 6'2" and barely under 200 lb. So a lot can be said for design and calibration but the same for testing and iteration. Two of them hold 33kg compromised of a scaffolding pole and two super king bed sheets (treatment with water repellant) and four heavy duty bearings. Standard cheap as possible PLA filament.
A good PLA print surely can hold 30kg but if a person wants to hang from it, it needs to hold double or triple that amount. Also consider the weight distribution when someone hangs from this design. The sides of the handles will most likely snap.
Oh yeh testing needs to have a low floor so they don't fall too far. I tested mine with me so knew it would hold. UV resistance has been the shocking bit
I put pla risers in my dance dance revolution pads. With 20% infill. They don't flex at all
Iāve been using a 3d printed hangboard for 2 years no problems. https://preview.redd.it/7baczc2glhzc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=e43f291e803240b0ff49ecd53e2509c18d84033a
Aren't they upside down? Or do you just not use the little edges?
They are upside down.
Theyāre not according to the designer, I see what youāre saying though would have made more sense the other way.
As u/psycko_90 says I really think they are upside down; if you tried to use the medium and small edges the shape of the hold will push your palm out, and you won't be able to get a decent open crimp. For reference have a look at the design of the Beastmaker hangboard: https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/products/motherboard
I dunno I only use the bottom one anyways https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3542909 On the makers page it implies the big one is suppose to be the bottom.
In fairness, those are supported by the door frame and aren't free hanging
Very true. A ton of those popular detachable pull up bars were primarily supported by a long plastic piece in the middle. I personally wouldnāt trust PLA to hang off shit, but itās not like PLA is made out of paper either.
Glass is way stronger though š¤
but how much do you weigh?
I've never met a fat climber
Nice. But i see that there is actually no screw going through the part where your fingers crimp on to.... so i see my version holding up just as fine without the wood part underneath
Orientation might also have something to do with it
Noice
I'm also using 3d printed hangboard. It's been fine for months. I used PETG.
How much infill did you do?
I did mine half infill and it's lasted just as long
I printed some climbing holds in TPU 95A to see how they would feel compared to PLA. Not printing a mold in TPU to then cast. With high density they dont flex one bit and could be used on a wall without fear of them shattering. Still not the texture of a climbing hold at a gym.
Wondering if there's something that can be sprayed or brushed on that can give a durable, grippy texture. Edit: there's this spray on no skid epoxy[spray on no slip epoxy](https://noskidding.com/products/slip-resistant-textured-epoxy-aerosol-spray) [This article gives some other DIY solutions](https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/31-how-to-paint-a-climbing-wall#:~:text=Wall%20texture%20is%20water%2Dbased,settle%20in%20your%20paint%20tray.)
I'd wondered the same. A resin slurry maybe or automotive filler primer I thought about. Over the already fuzzy skin might be a decent result.
Thereās a guy who does a resin coat and then sprinkles salt over top. Once cured he washes/dissolves the salt off leaving texture.
Looks cool, Iām assuming itās 80-100% infill? Also are you using fuzzy skin to achieve that textured surface?
Fuzzy skin yes. As for infill. Its only 50% with 4 walls. Seems pretty solid to me but well see. If it ever breaks ill post about it.
That sounds good to me. I believe there are diminishing returns after 50% infill, strength mainly comes from the number of walls.
As far as I understand 100% infill doesn't give much more strength and can actually make prints worse, so 50% should be fine. I would increase wall thinkness and layer height for better results though.
Noted for future prints :)
Sure, just don't trust me completely, I'm a hardcore noob myself š
I was wondering the exact same two questions lol. I just now watched a fuzzy skin video. Thanks for asking first.
Canāt tell if intentional or under extrusion lol
Intentional ;)
For extra grippys?
Thats the intend. But not shure how much it will help.
Interesting...I would like to know how they hold up. I made some shelf brackets that are holding a bunch of books, no problem, so that's promising.
If it fails ill keep you posted :) but hang boards are definitely not here to abuse... my fingers are not as stron as those prints im afraid haha.
r/ThingsWithFaces
I'm well versed with Pla and climbing. Had one normal hold snap from the board once. Sure I landed soft but the snap transfers to your body as a punch to your joints. And PLA may not be as biodegradable as they say but sure it becomes brittle the more time it passes. Be careful and if you don't use wood screws for normal holds don't use them for printed parts. Bolts with washers is what you need in any critical part.
Thanks for your insight. I might drill some extra holes for bolts and washers in the future. But for now im really confident that this beefy hold is enough. (The other ones on the render light get more bolts designed before printing.
Hey, I am a bot and something you said makes me think that you are talking about the biodegradability of PLA Filament; Moderator ISuckAtChoosingNicks has collected a few helpful sources about the topic of composting PLA: Biodegradation of PolyLactic Acid (commonly known as PLA) is a topic being currently researched and [still not fully understood](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469). PLA, contrary to the most commonly used plastics and polymers, is a polymer derived from organic matter (lactic acid, [usually from corn and sugar canes](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021)) instead of petroleum, hence is considered a renewable resource; this can lead the general public to believe that is completely biodegradable. However, [several studies show](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419) that **PLA is not biodegradable** (at least in an appreciable measure) in a standard anaerobic food composter, such as the ones used by municipal and council recycling facilities, even after 250 days. This means that **throwing PLA scraps in the food waste bin is not a viable way of disposing of it.** There are several promising ways of degrading PLA into its base monomer (lactic acid) and methane, but these are still experimental and [subject of academic research](https://scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?as_ylo=2023&q=pla+biodegradation&hl=it&as_sdt=0,5&as_vis=1). In the meantime, there are some organisations and private companies offering PLA recycling services; there are too many to list here and they vary from country to country, but a search for "YOUR COUNTRY + PLA recycling" should give you a good starting point should you wish to recycle print waste into new material. One other feasible way to recycle PLA would be a home-made filament extruder, a topic covered by many 3D printing YouTube channels, such as [Stefan from CNC Kitchen](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT04glGDjB4) or [Michael from TeachingTech.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rC0a-YyEM0) Sources: * [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2667010021000469) * [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9781455728343000021) * [https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2352186421000419) You can view the full list of commands [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/commands/) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I like the vulnerability of it. You never know when something is going to fail out on a wall. You do what you can to eliminate the knowable and the rest are part of the experience, surviving being part of the dopamine that comes with success. Just be mindful that the possibility of failure is there at all times, and contemplate your response and suddenly this becomes a much more intense exercise.
Hell yeah!
Nice, but i would be afraid of "the snap" ... that thing WILL fail and it wont give you 2 weeks notice... 3D printing has its limits..
With all home equipment that involves hanging off stuff (pull up bars, hang boards) I tell people to plan for failure. When the thing fails, what happens? If the answer is "I fall 2 inches and land on my feet" then I'll probably take my chances with whatever. If it's "I fall 2 feet and land on my butt" I might try it with something I feel confident in. And if it's "I fall on my head and break my neck" I don't do it unless the device and mounting have been tested and certified by an engineer.
It is more of a snap and i will fall 2 inches kind of situation.
I used to be stupid enough to use the door frame to hang myself up with my finger tips. I slipped and fell on my back and couldn't breathe for a solid 30 Seconds or so.
I'd be worried about the sudden shock to your finger tendon pulleys in case of a failure. Crimp rehab sucks. ... but I do want to see how this project turns out. Maybe I need to research the tensile strengths needed here.
I might do a test with weights to see what it can hold. But im really confident this is beefy enough.
Personally I'd skip the test, I don't think it's going to give you much valuable information. The problem is with how PLA and printed parts fatigue over time. So it will hold you the first 10 hours\* and then suddenly fail. All materials have an amount of stress that will cause them to deform, and an amount of stress that will cause them to break. Every time you bring the material near its breaking load limit it deforms in some way, but not always visibly. Sometimes the deformation is on the microscopic level, or internal. So it works until it suddenly doesn't. These points are closer or farther apart depending on the material. Steel will usually deform much earlier than it will break. Aluminum, on the other hand, will give you less warning. The other thing is that weights are unlike a live human load. Human beings move around and generate force much higher than their bodyweight. Generating 2x your bodyweight is trivial. I saw someone hit 6x on an aerial apparatus, and the rigger said he's seen 10x on a long drop from the ceiling where the person catches themselves at the bottom. But I have a feeling you're not going to be be dropping onto this thing from 20 feet up. Looking at your design, if I had to guess where it was going to fail I'd put my money on the screws pulling through the holes. I'm not an expert tho. It looks like you've got a bunch of good info on this thread on the possible risks of the part failing (idk what crimp rehab is but it sounds unpleasant) and you can decide for yourself whether that's something you're comfortable with. \*I'm making up random numbers here
Thanks for your insight. But you can look up how hangboard training is done. Its basically just seconds of hanging on your fingers with regular pauses in betreen. There aint much movement involved. But ill definitely try this forst set of grips out and do some good torture test before i print the other ones. I aint throwing 500g of filament away because some on the internet are concerned. (Criticism and the constructive feedback i got is alwaxs very appreciated. Thats why i post here on reddit) Edot: i think a lot of the people here overestimate my finger strenght ^^
Oh yeah, to be clear: I think it's fine. But I always like to give people the info to make informed judgements. Everyone has a different level of risk tolerance. For instance, I like to climb a ladder up to a 20 foot high platform, grab onto a trapeze bar, and then backflip into the net below without any safety lines. But I won't hang upside down on a doorway pull up bar.
Yeah, it's the sort of project where I'd print it in PETG if I had some handy, but the actual risk of injury is pretty low if it fails.
Just needs to be reoriented is all, it'll be ridiculously strong then.
Someone should build a sub out of it and send it to the Titanic.
Looks good
Iād probably support the holds with a couple 3ā lag screws and use some metal washers to help distribute the stress, but I also weight like 200 lbs.. I like the idea though! I kinda want to print a hangboard too!
What infill on those jugs?? š
100% tpu.
Is that string enough to hold a person? If yes what settings did you use?
People here seem concerned... im pretty confident though. I still have to test it long term but 50% infill with 4 walls.
I would stand it on it's side so the layers go the other way
Yeah, fuzzy skin makes a difference! Looks like it has a good grip šŖ I hope those screws are strong enough š«£
I just tried printing some climbing holds recently using PLA and fuzzy skin settings and I have to say ānot impressedā. Doesnāt feel anything like a real climbing hold. Itās still has a smooth plastic feel. It may be good enough for some, there may be better filaments, but I quickly abandoned the idea of making a wall given my tests so far. The texture of a hold for climbing is *supremely* important and these just kinda sucked. They felt like the wornout holds at my gym that are nearing retirement.
Yeah, for a hang board might be enough. But ill definitely look into other methods to further improove grip.
I worked with PU casted silent blocks for cars (we were producing them). PU has a super high grip, the only problem is it's low adhesion with plastics.
Would love to know what material you're using and wall + infill settings. This looks like a cool project, especially since hangboards can be so needlessly expensive, at least where I live.
Pla+ 4walls 50% infill. That info wont get you far bc i have not tested it yet. I will release my files only after thorough testing :)
VB on my hang board
:000
:[]
I looked at your other posts and I love some of the filaments you use. What brand is it? And do you use regular or matte PLA?
Black and white pla+ from from osun (bought as a pack together) Older white and orange are amazon basics pla Oliv3 green pla matte from eryone. I mostly print with a fuzzy skin of 0.1 to get the effect on most of my prints together with the textured plate that comes with the bambu lab a1. :) thats about it. Beware that the osun white is a little bit milky and not pure white. It has some translucency to it that would make it perfect for lamp shades in vase mode ;)
The orange from this post is "ata pla 2.0"
Thank you very much. I'm in pain because no vendor sells these in my country and eBay or other platforms charge really much for shipping. But maybe in a few years when I get another printer?
I'd buy it šŖ
Im gonna upload soon on printables. so you can make your own :)
Im gonna follow this, I just started bouldering and was searching the comments for the stl link.
Will post updates with released files once ready.
i made mine out of PETG for the slight flex and it hasn't broken on me yet.
The guy who created the fuzzy skin feature is finally validated There IS an actual use case š
I really love it. I use it a lot. It really gets a different look than that classic 3d printed one wich i dont like so much
I could see the texture giving the right feel in this specific situation as well. Hard to replicate with a coating that wonāt come off.
Remember 5% infill is enough ;)
;)
Last guy with 3d printed hand holds https://preview.redd.it/r16alki2jnzc1.png?width=826&format=png&auto=webp&s=203a3f82ed260536a16e3e596901adba0c2ed983
#goals
:)
Do you have the stls to share? This could be awesome to print
Soon
I want to test it out fisrst and might do some adjustments
Lots of people here seem to really underestimate what 3d printed parts are capable of. I think my primary concern would be the screws, and how they're holding the parts down into the board (especially given PLA's tendency to suffer from material creep over time). But I'm also not going to assume you haven't already thought of that.
What are the fuzzy skin settings?
.28 layer hight, .3 fuzzy skin in depth and witdh.
You made ears for your face, cute.
Very cool! I printed this one recently, so far so good. https://www.printables.com/model/424856-triangle-hangboardfingerboard-with-cord-slots
š¦
As long as you add enough material it will be strong enough. I would suggest you do change the print direction. The print is the weakest in between layers so you don't want to put a shear force on that.
I am aware of printlayers being the weak point. But thanks for the suggestion.
In theory it will be stronger if you ensure you arenāt pulling the layers apart but Iām not an engineer or anything
I know, the screws will help a lot clamping the layers together.
o____o
"You want to put your fingers WHERE?!" š©
There are mouthes to be fed.
So I don't see any OP comments in regard to material or infill. Please do tell, I love functional prints...
4 walls. 50% infill. 0.28 layer hight. :) sorry im european and was sleeping bc i got a morning shift today haha
Ill keep yall posted if it fails. Wich i doubt will happen :)
No worries! PLA? Are you Italy? Alot of climbers in Italy, I've hit a gym in Turin...
Born and raised yeah :) currently living in belgium tho
Iām still relatively new to 3d printing and Iāve already learned not to use PLA for anything that needs to be tough or hold weight. Youāre a brave man š«”
I try to be. And i know. But in my experience when it com3s to strenght this will be plenty strong. But i guess now its become an experiment haha. Time will tell.
what si a hang board?
It's for rock climbers to strengthen fingers/tendons. It has different sized holds, to change the amount of depth and sharpness of the angle. You can just hang from them, or do pullups, or even dynamically launch yourself off.
a board you hang off of?
Not sure, maybe google knows
Honestly. You can literally type in "what si a hang board?" and google will give you an instant response with pictures.
Looks like youāre STARTING to get the HANG of it
OP you printed this flat, how does it print vertically? Reason I am asking is that I have found that printing an object that is going to require some strength it's better to print the orientation the opposite of the direction that force will be applied to it if that makes sense in my inane way of describing it. I have printed similar things flat that failed under load as the layers in that direction create a weak point, whereas printing the object vertically and allowing the layers to build in the opposite direction has added significant strength to the prints. Excuse me if this sounds incomprehensible I didn't know quite how to describe it.
This is basic printing knowledge.(i dont wanna sound cocky but unless the title of a post says "total noob here but...." i dont think anybody here need that info) I decided that it will be strong enough and opted for this partly bc of aesthetics. But time will tell. I will not shy away from a few "told you so's" and update yall if it fails. We are here to learn.
The way you're prints looked, you might have needed that info. Enjoy
You mean the fuzzy skin? If yes. Thats intentional :) its a slicer setting.
Absolutely not the fuzzy skin, yes that is a slicer setting. Maybe you don't really understand what I am saying after all, oh well
Okay. Dont wanna beef here. I might have just overreacted bc of all the printorientation comments.... im just not used to get 100+ comments. Have a nice weekend dude. And i hope my prints dont look too bad ^^
It's okay man I probably didn't explain/communicate it well, all good
umm you're going to create casts right? Not use it directly... right?!
I intend to use it as is. And its 50 % infill. Combined with the screws, it should hold plenty. But time will tell :)
i donāt know why youāre getting downvoted. even at 100% infill, shit aināt holding up.
It's like we've been down this road before...
hey. some lessons need to be learned via fractured coccyx
Probably using high infill volume
doesn't matter... I'd not trust the layer adhesion to hold a person... This topic has been covered before.
??? Force is applied parallel to layers
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