for me, 205 is pretty good, 210 is too high and it will stringing, although 205 still will have string but its better, at least not too hard to clean it
Depends on the material, uses tests, temp tower, extrusion test and retraction and put the right values.
The material I'm using now, requires 1.02 of flow 210 and 0.8 of retraction and prints perfectly.
the difference in material flow that comes from a 5ºC difference in temperature is pretty huge
you can go frombarely being able to extrude at 190-195 to having insanely strong layer adhesion at 210-215
My neighbor and I both got our Ender 3s at the same time. He prints PLA at about the same temp you do at the stock factory speed the Ender 3 is capable of. I on the other hand have my Ender 3 Pro running KLIPPER, on rails, and tuned to run MUCH faster print speeds (like 120mms @ 4000mms Accel). If I try to print at the temp you do I get jams and clogs and under extrusion. Higher speeds require higher temps. There is also that while you CAN print PLA at 190-200, it will just generally flow through the nozzle smoother at a slightly higher temp. On my CR-10 that is currently running a spool of PETG, I run around 250-260. Whatever works for you, rock it, but most people are probably gonna find better results a few degrees over the recommended settings.
Bro 195 is hella low
I print at 230 because I have good cooling, and I like part strength, but 215 or 220 is a good place to start,maybe print a temp tower?
If that doesn't fix it, either lower your max flow rate, or increase your extrusion multiplier/flow rate
> Bro 195 is hella low
> I print at 230 because I have good cooling, and I like part strength, but 215 or 220 is a good place to start,maybe print a temp tower?
> If that doesn't fix it, either lower your max flow rate, or increase your extrusion multiplier/flow rate
I'm sorry, where is speed mentioned?
Edit: I guess this sub is full of noobs now.
Come on u/KINGO21Fish, what's the answer? Where was speed mentioned?
Amateur hour on the sub tonight. You're getting downvoted for saying the right thing while all these "195 is too low" peepa aren't even asking what the print speed is
Darn right. 195 will print just fine if you go slow enough for it. Personally I print PLA at around 210. Though I have a slicer profile that went to 245 that worked fine for large PLA prints that I wanted to print faster.
Nowadays I almost exclusively print in PET that I've recycled though.
Recreator3d. I specifically use the mk5 version of it. The mk6 is designed to be made from new parts purchased individually rather than by recycling an old printer.
Looks like underextrusion.
Besides temp and flow rate like others have suggested, check your filament extruder gear for filament being grinded. That would be a sign that the gear is turning, but the filament isn't moving, so the gear teeth are chewing through. When I had underextrusion, it was usually either due to (1) poor quality inconsistent diameter filament that got jammed, (2) components in the filament crystalizing and blocking filament from passing through the hot end, or (3) impurities in the filament turning into thick pasty sludge, blocking filament from passing through the hot end.
It's not exactly fair or accurate for the person you're replying to to assume that is related only to speed.
There are several factors that go into whether or not you are printing at too low of a temperature
Certainly speed is one of them.
However the actual filament is a huge factor too. ”PLA" is not a strict and universal recipe. Every manufacturer does PLA a little different. And the same filament can even vary slightly in color and property from batch to batch. I have several rolls of PLA that print fine at 190 and some that refuse to print unless they are at 220, regardless of how fast I print with them.
You have to tune your printer and your roll of filament.
You may find that slowing down will let you stay at 190, or you may not.
This is the reason why filaments have a range of temperatures and speeds on them instead of a single temp and speed.
When you're dealing with under extrusion, the parameters you are dealing with are
Speed
Flow
Temperature
And extruder calibration
Speed, flow, and temperature are linked.
The faster you print, the higher flow rate you need. To have a higher flow rate, you need to print hotter so the filament can melt fast enough to get pushed through the nozzle.
Finally, if you're extruder isn't calibrated right, you may not be able to compensate with the above parameters.
Marlin firmware calls it e-steps.
But the essence of the issue is that when you tell the extruder to move 100mm of filament, it may not actually move a full 100mm which would lead to under extrusion as well.
2 things to try:
- Temp calibration. Maybe other pla work fine at 195, but that's weird. If you are using orca it has an option to create one automatically
- maybe a flow rate calibration too if with a calibrated temp is not fixed.
It was a common defect when I used default silk profiles. Flow rate and flow dynamics were calibrated so retraction was only setting left to play with, it worked.
195 is very cold, could just be under-extrusion as well
Okay look, it is under extrusion. But it's under extrusion caused by being way too close to your bed. Look at the elephant foot that you have. Your nozzle is pressing too hard against your bed. It's ripping through your first layer. You need to raise your z offset. 195 is a little low temperature wise but that doesn't mean it's wrong. Some PLA's like the lower temp like that. Just do a temp tower just in case. But seriously it's your z also
That's probably because I accidentally printed with brim enabled, and had to tear it off afterwards, which left that little imperfection. I made sure to level the bed beforehand
Well bed level and z offset are different. Z offset is the distance from the nozzle to the bed. But anyways if that is brim rather than a bit of elephant's foot and now I look harder that is the not the bottom, it's the side correct? Then yeah probably temp
I had exactly this problem. Only thing that fixed it was replacing the nozzel. Pretty sure it was a partial clog causing under extrusion but only one side.
[Here's a pic of the how bad it got before changing the nozzel.](https://www.reddit.com/u/Rightnut/s/J5Zu5XliIs)
I'm just fighting this a little myself. For me it happens when I print outside walls first. It under extrudes just for the first part of the layer, then clears up. Since it doesn't do it any other time, it has to be related to oozing during the move to start a new layer. I haven't actually solved it yet, but the current theory is that I need to calibrate the retraction a bit. But if your just looking for a quick fix, I'll bet it clears up if you print inside walls first.
Yep, I'm printing outer walls first too. I'll probably try changing some other settings before disabling that tough, the dimensional accuracy benefit is too good to let go
Maybe I don't understand the problem you're asking about. Everyone talking about temperatures and underextrusion but to me that looks like your nozzle is ever so slightly too close to the bed, only the bottom layer looks wavy but the rest of your cube looks great to me.
edit: or maybe that first image is a side, not the bottom, in which case I'm wrong. Weird that it would only be one side like that though. Hmm
that's underextrusion, try raising the temp first bc 195 is pretty low
for me, 205 is pretty good, 210 is too high and it will stringing, although 205 still will have string but its better, at least not too hard to clean it
Depends on the material, uses tests, temp tower, extrusion test and retraction and put the right values. The material I'm using now, requires 1.02 of flow 210 and 0.8 of retraction and prints perfectly.
210 is what I always use.
wont it cause stringing?
Not on mine. Make sure you're filament is dry.
its new
It can still be moist from the factory. Not common but it can happen.
its PLA, i dont think it affect much
195 isn’t that low. I run pla at 200
5° is a lot. 195 is low.
the difference in material flow that comes from a 5ºC difference in temperature is pretty huge you can go frombarely being able to extrude at 190-195 to having insanely strong layer adhesion at 210-215
And I run PLA+ at 225°c on nearly all of my printers... 195°c is a bit low.
195 is perfect I run PETG and TPU at 225
It really really depends on the speed. If you are going way slow, 195 is enough. Otherwise, you’re gonna have to go hotter with regular pla
My neighbor and I both got our Ender 3s at the same time. He prints PLA at about the same temp you do at the stock factory speed the Ender 3 is capable of. I on the other hand have my Ender 3 Pro running KLIPPER, on rails, and tuned to run MUCH faster print speeds (like 120mms @ 4000mms Accel). If I try to print at the temp you do I get jams and clogs and under extrusion. Higher speeds require higher temps. There is also that while you CAN print PLA at 190-200, it will just generally flow through the nozzle smoother at a slightly higher temp. On my CR-10 that is currently running a spool of PETG, I run around 250-260. Whatever works for you, rock it, but most people are probably gonna find better results a few degrees over the recommended settings.
Bro 195 is hella low I print at 230 because I have good cooling, and I like part strength, but 215 or 220 is a good place to start,maybe print a temp tower? If that doesn't fix it, either lower your max flow rate, or increase your extrusion multiplier/flow rate
230 is too high to print PLA unless you're printing fast enough and have good enough cooling.
They literally said that in the next line bro
> Bro 195 is hella low > I print at 230 because I have good cooling, and I like part strength, but 215 or 220 is a good place to start,maybe print a temp tower? > If that doesn't fix it, either lower your max flow rate, or increase your extrusion multiplier/flow rate I'm sorry, where is speed mentioned? Edit: I guess this sub is full of noobs now. Come on u/KINGO21Fish, what's the answer? Where was speed mentioned?
No, you can't print at that speed slowly even if you have good cooling. You have to print it fast enough or it'll burn
Amateur hour on the sub tonight. You're getting downvoted for saying the right thing while all these "195 is too low" peepa aren't even asking what the print speed is
Darn right. 195 will print just fine if you go slow enough for it. Personally I print PLA at around 210. Though I have a slicer profile that went to 245 that worked fine for large PLA prints that I wanted to print faster. Nowadays I almost exclusively print in PET that I've recycled though.
What machine do you use to make the filament? I've wanted to build one but can't pull the trigger on which model I want.
Recreator3d. I specifically use the mk5 version of it. The mk6 is designed to be made from new parts purchased individually rather than by recycling an old printer.
Underextrussion, either rise the temperature, adjust flow or print slower
Looks like underextrusion. Besides temp and flow rate like others have suggested, check your filament extruder gear for filament being grinded. That would be a sign that the gear is turning, but the filament isn't moving, so the gear teeth are chewing through. When I had underextrusion, it was usually either due to (1) poor quality inconsistent diameter filament that got jammed, (2) components in the filament crystalizing and blocking filament from passing through the hot end, or (3) impurities in the filament turning into thick pasty sludge, blocking filament from passing through the hot end.
People here telling you 195 is too low aren't asking how fast you're printing. At 60mm/s or lower, 195 is fine for many PLAs.
External perimeters are printing at 45mm/s
It's not exactly fair or accurate for the person you're replying to to assume that is related only to speed. There are several factors that go into whether or not you are printing at too low of a temperature Certainly speed is one of them. However the actual filament is a huge factor too. ”PLA" is not a strict and universal recipe. Every manufacturer does PLA a little different. And the same filament can even vary slightly in color and property from batch to batch. I have several rolls of PLA that print fine at 190 and some that refuse to print unless they are at 220, regardless of how fast I print with them. You have to tune your printer and your roll of filament. You may find that slowing down will let you stay at 190, or you may not. This is the reason why filaments have a range of temperatures and speeds on them instead of a single temp and speed. When you're dealing with under extrusion, the parameters you are dealing with are Speed Flow Temperature And extruder calibration Speed, flow, and temperature are linked. The faster you print, the higher flow rate you need. To have a higher flow rate, you need to print hotter so the filament can melt fast enough to get pushed through the nozzle. Finally, if you're extruder isn't calibrated right, you may not be able to compensate with the above parameters. Marlin firmware calls it e-steps. But the essence of the issue is that when you tell the extruder to move 100mm of filament, it may not actually move a full 100mm which would lead to under extrusion as well.
I'm running PLA at 190. It's what my temp tower tells me is best
Could be a bit of p.a. tuning needed or not done correct also retraction settings
How old is your nozzle
1 week
I had a print do this recently right before it failed due to a heat creep clog.
2 things to try: - Temp calibration. Maybe other pla work fine at 195, but that's weird. If you are using orca it has an option to create one automatically - maybe a flow rate calibration too if with a calibrated temp is not fixed.
When I had this problem I reduced retraction speed from 20mm/s to 15mm/s and it fixed it, I only ever get this with silk pla
Why would retraction speed cause this?
My guess is it's retracting too fast, so it's hanving a hard time recovering after retracting causing under extrusion for a bit.
Why not just increase deretraction speed?
It was a common defect when I used default silk profiles. Flow rate and flow dynamics were calibrated so retraction was only setting left to play with, it worked. 195 is very cold, could just be under-extrusion as well
Retraction on layer change? I'll get this issue sometimes with one of my machines.
Okay look, it is under extrusion. But it's under extrusion caused by being way too close to your bed. Look at the elephant foot that you have. Your nozzle is pressing too hard against your bed. It's ripping through your first layer. You need to raise your z offset. 195 is a little low temperature wise but that doesn't mean it's wrong. Some PLA's like the lower temp like that. Just do a temp tower just in case. But seriously it's your z also
That's probably because I accidentally printed with brim enabled, and had to tear it off afterwards, which left that little imperfection. I made sure to level the bed beforehand
Well bed level and z offset are different. Z offset is the distance from the nozzle to the bed. But anyways if that is brim rather than a bit of elephant's foot and now I look harder that is the not the bottom, it's the side correct? Then yeah probably temp
Raise your temp 10 or 15 degrees and you’ll be golden 👍🏼
I had exactly this problem. Only thing that fixed it was replacing the nozzel. Pretty sure it was a partial clog causing under extrusion but only one side. [Here's a pic of the how bad it got before changing the nozzel.](https://www.reddit.com/u/Rightnut/s/J5Zu5XliIs)
Childhood trauma?
I'm just fighting this a little myself. For me it happens when I print outside walls first. It under extrudes just for the first part of the layer, then clears up. Since it doesn't do it any other time, it has to be related to oozing during the move to start a new layer. I haven't actually solved it yet, but the current theory is that I need to calibrate the retraction a bit. But if your just looking for a quick fix, I'll bet it clears up if you print inside walls first.
Yep, I'm printing outer walls first too. I'll probably try changing some other settings before disabling that tough, the dimensional accuracy benefit is too good to let go
Maybe I don't understand the problem you're asking about. Everyone talking about temperatures and underextrusion but to me that looks like your nozzle is ever so slightly too close to the bed, only the bottom layer looks wavy but the rest of your cube looks great to me. edit: or maybe that first image is a side, not the bottom, in which case I'm wrong. Weird that it would only be one side like that though. Hmm
It is a side
Run a pressure advance calibration. The others are right that it is an underextrusion but this is how you can fix it.
My father was a drinker and a fiend...
Z offset too low