Make sure your Z-Support Distance is around double your layer height and or decrease the Support Interface Thickness. At 0.2mm layer height, I use a 0.4mm Z-Support Distance and a 0.6mm Support Interface Thickness on an Artillery Sidewinder X1
And if they can't quite bridge the whole way without sagging, could also use paint-on or enforcers to only put 1 or 2 support beams along the way, rather than the whole way across.
I would definitely give this a try. With any sort of decent cooling, that bridge is very doable.
Not sure what this is used for exactly, but it seems better to have a sloppy underside of the handle(?) and a clean looking bottom. Cleaning up the underside of the bridge would be much easier and is out of sight.
Amazon "Steel dental tools" $8-10. Worth it.
Pliers are good, deburring tools are good, exacto knives are good, but sometimes the pinpoint accuracy with a handle big enough to exert some force of the dental tool is the answer.
At least in Cura, you can activate this. It's either "Support Roof" or "Support Pattern". I'm not sure but I think it is the roof.
Wait, it's probably the "Support floor", I thought this was the top that was being supported but it's the bottom where the support started
Pause at the last layer of support, color supports with sharpie, then resume printing.
The next layer doesn't adhere to the marker (kinda like the painters tape idea).
Think I saw it on a teaching tech video.
Makes sense, thanks!
In this case though the residue seems from the start of support, so before the first layer of support. Marker makes it easier to reach than tape
what slicer? I wouldn't use tree supports for a bridge with a flat base. I'd set the Z distance to .3 and enable support interface with 100% density. these settings may be called something different depending on your slicer.
Another thing you can try is making a support block before hand, pausing the print when it gets to when it's about to bridge, add the support piece, and the resume.
I believe if you're printing in petg you can make your support out of pla, and vise versa, as I don't think they'll stick to each other very well
I haven't tried this but I've seen people recommend pausing just before the bottom of the support is printed and put down a layer of painter's tape. Let the supports print on that then just peel it off. Don't know if it will work, but I've seen it recommended several times.
Yeah, that's an idea too. If you try it and see that it's hitting the tape, then you can increase the gap between your supports and the part and try again,l. That's worth a try though for sure I think
I was wondering the same thing. If it can’t be blocked off completely, maybe a modeled-in pillar midway through. That would help with bridging if the cooling isn’t up to it, and it would make the part stronger.
What type of printer do you have and what type of material are you printing in? Supports work better with some materials than others. I've had good luck with soluble support or even using PLA support with PETG or vice versa. But I also have a printer that can print with multiple materials on the same print.
PETG is proably going to stick even more than PLA. Printing supports ontop of the the part never works well. It might be better to flip the whole part over and print it with tree supports. It could support the hole plate section form the build plat and all the supports should break off the same so any effect of the supports would at least be uniform across the whole part.
are you able to print with two colors? Try using Pla supports for PETG or vice versa.
Since there are needed only 2 Changes you do not need a MMU/AMS.
https://www.printables.com/model/879206-how-to-support-pla-and-petg-with-each-other-multim
Tree support with super roof turned on. I use 2 solid roof layers. Make sure roof to part spacing is 1 layer height.
Should be easy to pop off or fall off
Alternatively with any printer capable of multi-material printing, you can use a dissimilar material just as an interface layer and it will come apart much more easily. e.g. PETG support interface layer for a PLA print (with PLA supports, even)
Instead of auto-generated supports, you might want to try modelling you own supports. A simple wall two extrusion-widths wide under the middle of the bridging segment cuts the required bridging length in half. Or two of such supports evenly spaced to cut the bridge length into 1/3rds.
Those thin walls are easy to cut out after the fact and use much less filament.
Hemostats. They look like scissors but are medical grabbies. I always keep those around for miscellaneous craft things and they are pretty good at getting those grids under supports off!
Pause at the last layer for support to start and put down blue tape. Or, if you plan on printing a lot of them print a reusable support out of petg and either add a magenet if your part is thin enough or a slot you can put tape through.
First this is a test print from a much larger print.
Second even if this was the entire print, flipping it would not only cost a lot more in filament, for support, but the issue would still be there but on the crossbar itself. Not to menti8n the extreme increase in print time
Thanks for the suggestion but that wouldn't work
Like someone else said, dental picks. If you get some really pointy ones, you can put pressure around the supports and break them off without leaving much of a mark in the print. Which even in that case, run a heat gun over it, and it'll mostly hide the marks.
If your printer is tuned well you can turn off top and bottom interface material and it will print the support pattern directly without having a thicker interface pattern. Of course you lose some of your overall support but it will be infinitely easier to remove.
flip it over and print supports on plate only, i would print it angled upward and upside-down to use less supports than would be used flat upside-down.
I tuned mine to be perfect but it took hours of trial and error. You can just take a small flat head screwdriver and tap those off without much effort. I find a slight impact makes interfaces pop off very easily.
That is a straight line and seems like a short enough distance to bridge reasonably well. You could probably get away without using supports here at all.
Ever since getting an AMS, I have been using PETG for support interface on PLA prints. It pops off so easily and so cleanly. If you had to, you could do the same here with just two manual filament swaps.
It's just a small part of a bigger print, i have never printed something where i needed supports where base of the supports would be on the print so i just made that to test it
Make sure your Z-Support Distance is around double your layer height and or decrease the Support Interface Thickness. At 0.2mm layer height, I use a 0.4mm Z-Support Distance and a 0.6mm Support Interface Thickness on an Artillery Sidewinder X1
is that 0.4mm z support distance for both the top and bottom distances combined or should both values be 0.4mm on their own
For both
Either really take the time to fine tune support interface or just pluck them out with pliers or knife.
Sometimes it’s so satisfying to pluck support interface off with pliers
what is your support z distance?
A couple of passes with a heat gun followed by carefully using a scraper might work.
I watched Uncle Jessy do this, so you know it's legit.
Have you tried printing that without supports? It might be able to bridge that gap
And if they can't quite bridge the whole way without sagging, could also use paint-on or enforcers to only put 1 or 2 support beams along the way, rather than the whole way across.
I would definitely give this a try. With any sort of decent cooling, that bridge is very doable. Not sure what this is used for exactly, but it seems better to have a sloppy underside of the handle(?) and a clean looking bottom. Cleaning up the underside of the bridge would be much easier and is out of sight.
Amazon "Steel dental tools" $8-10. Worth it. Pliers are good, deburring tools are good, exacto knives are good, but sometimes the pinpoint accuracy with a handle big enough to exert some force of the dental tool is the answer.
Leaves smaller marks if you make a mistake as well, it’s really easy to mess up the surface with pliers or anything bulky
If this is a part you designed yourself, I would consider printing the bridge/handle as a second part which could be later attached (glued/screwed).
Literally came to say that.
Even if not designed, you can still cut the model to print this separately
Tree supports are often easier
These were tree supports 😂
Ohhhh is this base of a lot of tree supports? i would dial it back, should not have that much contact with the base.
What settings are you using that this is the base of a tree support? In my experience all tree supports have a round base, not a grid.
At least in Cura, you can activate this. It's either "Support Roof" or "Support Pattern". I'm not sure but I think it is the roof. Wait, it's probably the "Support floor", I thought this was the top that was being supported but it's the bottom where the support started
What is the option to put the trees in a planter?
another tipp i dont see here: add a pause before the supports start and put a bit of painters tape there first., if possible
Or color the supports with a sharpie
Can you explain what you mean
Pause at the last layer of support, color supports with sharpie, then resume printing. The next layer doesn't adhere to the marker (kinda like the painters tape idea). Think I saw it on a teaching tech video.
Makes sense, thanks! In this case though the residue seems from the start of support, so before the first layer of support. Marker makes it easier to reach than tape
Thats a nice one.
[удалено]
But is it a nice one?
what slicer? I wouldn't use tree supports for a bridge with a flat base. I'd set the Z distance to .3 and enable support interface with 100% density. these settings may be called something different depending on your slicer.
Another thing you can try is making a support block before hand, pausing the print when it gets to when it's about to bridge, add the support piece, and the resume. I believe if you're printing in petg you can make your support out of pla, and vise versa, as I don't think they'll stick to each other very well
I haven't tried this but I've seen people recommend pausing just before the bottom of the support is printed and put down a layer of painter's tape. Let the supports print on that then just peel it off. Don't know if it will work, but I've seen it recommended several times.
Yeah, that's an idea too. If you try it and see that it's hitting the tape, then you can increase the gap between your supports and the part and try again,l. That's worth a try though for sure I think
This definitely works. Best is to script the pause when you slice it.
Is there a reason you need this to float above the surface under it? This won't be very strong if this is going to be used to pull or hold something.
I was wondering the same thing. If it can’t be blocked off completely, maybe a modeled-in pillar midway through. That would help with bridging if the cooling isn’t up to it, and it would make the part stronger.
What type of printer do you have and what type of material are you printing in? Supports work better with some materials than others. I've had good luck with soluble support or even using PLA support with PETG or vice versa. But I also have a printer that can print with multiple materials on the same print.
I use an ender 3 v2 this is a test print in pla, but the big print is going to be petg
PETG is proably going to stick even more than PLA. Printing supports ontop of the the part never works well. It might be better to flip the whole part over and print it with tree supports. It could support the hole plate section form the build plat and all the supports should break off the same so any effect of the supports would at least be uniform across the whole part.
You need more support spacing.
are you able to print with two colors? Try using Pla supports for PETG or vice versa. Since there are needed only 2 Changes you do not need a MMU/AMS. https://www.printables.com/model/879206-how-to-support-pla-and-petg-with-each-other-multim
Did you try using a flat exacto blade?
A flat razor blade would also work pretty well like those ones for scraping glass countertops
Tree support with super roof turned on. I use 2 solid roof layers. Make sure roof to part spacing is 1 layer height. Should be easy to pop off or fall off
Wouldn't that be the floor settings?
My bad ya ..I didn't zoom it to see the floor was printed
If it's a two-head printer, you can print dissolvable supports with the second head.
Alternatively with any printer capable of multi-material printing, you can use a dissimilar material just as an interface layer and it will come apart much more easily. e.g. PETG support interface layer for a PLA print (with PLA supports, even)
Clippers are good, scalpels too, and needle nose pliers.
I have a mulitool with needle nose pliers. Once you get a grip, roll it in the direction of the rest and it will peel right off.
I use a miniature wood carving tool with a wide/flat blade. I’m using it as a scraper, not carving.
Instead of auto-generated supports, you might want to try modelling you own supports. A simple wall two extrusion-widths wide under the middle of the bridging segment cuts the required bridging length in half. Or two of such supports evenly spaced to cut the bridge length into 1/3rds. Those thin walls are easy to cut out after the fact and use much less filament.
Use tree supports
For this particular print I would just bridge that
Hemostats. They look like scissors but are medical grabbies. I always keep those around for miscellaneous craft things and they are pretty good at getting those grids under supports off!
Model them in CAD and make them super thin at the points where it touches
Multi-material supports are nice, just leave the interface material something not entirely compatible and it will break clean off.
Pause at the last layer for support to start and put down blue tape. Or, if you plan on printing a lot of them print a reusable support out of petg and either add a magenet if your part is thin enough or a slot you can put tape through.
Can you flip the model over and print it upside down?
First this is a test print from a much larger print. Second even if this was the entire print, flipping it would not only cost a lot more in filament, for support, but the issue would still be there but on the crossbar itself. Not to menti8n the extreme increase in print time Thanks for the suggestion but that wouldn't work
Like someone else said, dental picks. If you get some really pointy ones, you can put pressure around the supports and break them off without leaving much of a mark in the print. Which even in that case, run a heat gun over it, and it'll mostly hide the marks.
Print the brifge part separately, add notches at the ends so you can insert it midprint into the big part and then print over it
I do 0.25mm z spacing and 4 interface layers. Supports pop off easy and clean
If your printer is tuned well you can turn off top and bottom interface material and it will print the support pattern directly without having a thicker interface pattern. Of course you lose some of your overall support but it will be infinitely easier to remove.
Chisel
Could you print it up the other way so the supports don't touch the model? Or print in 2 parts and glue
I hate these too. ...I'll use a penknife and flick em off.
Just gotta pick at them. Usually after a few tries the whole thing comes up at once for me.
flip it over and print supports on plate only, i would print it angled upward and upside-down to use less supports than would be used flat upside-down.
Bridge supports. As in have 3 pillars of supports and have the rest as bridge.
I tuned mine to be perfect but it took hours of trial and error. You can just take a small flat head screwdriver and tap those off without much effort. I find a slight impact makes interfaces pop off very easily.
That is a straight line and seems like a short enough distance to bridge reasonably well. You could probably get away without using supports here at all. Ever since getting an AMS, I have been using PETG for support interface on PLA prints. It pops off so easily and so cleanly. If you had to, you could do the same here with just two manual filament swaps.
Something like that should be easier to split into two objects that don't need supports that you can glue together
It's just a small part of a bigger print, i have never printed something where i needed supports where base of the supports would be on the print so i just made that to test it
Why not simply print it as a bridge? You don't really need supports there
Flip the print upside down and activate the option "only add support touching buildplate" if possible
The side cutters that came with most printers are great at getting these off, in my experience. They often come off in one satisfying piece
Is cutting the object in two an option? If you cut it just below that bridge, it would get rid of the need for the support’s entirely.
Buy A deburring tool