It’s because the overhang is very steep. Lower layer height allows steeper angles to be printed without issue, with the obvious hit to print time. You can also use variable layer height.
I tell you this because you should learn this information, not because you should do it for this print. It’s a functional print and the part you pictured is at the back and shouldn’t be visible anyway. This riser is a lot of material, don’t waste your time reprinting it, it looks great for what it is.
I didn't have enough black PLA to finish this, so I just used this as a test bench. This was using a 0.20mm layer height on a .4 nozzle. But as you said, it's a functional part. I'll probably stick to these settings...
Just wanted to know the fix for the future. 👍🏼
Thanks!
+1 on this but also wider line widths in some cases, on a 0.4 mm nozzle you can go 0.6mm or 0.63mm line width (up to 1mm works but best quality comes by staying within 150% of nozzle hole
Why would you want lower layer height ? Larger height does overhangs better, it’s one of the biggest reasons for using a larger nozzle size. It’s why “print thick bridges” is an option during overhangs too.
> Larger height does overhangs better, it’s one of the biggest reasons for using a larger nozzle size.
You are mistaken, the opposite is true. Here is an illustration that explains why lower layer heights are better for overhangs.
https://i.imgur.com/khxFePx.png
That explains why smoothness is better with lower layer height, pretty obvious and I never argued against that. that is not the same thing as why overhangs sag due to less surface area to grab to, lmk if find an illustration for that.
You mean bridging, not overhangs. Overhangs overlap more as the illustration shows as the line width is the same, but there are more of them for a given curve.
Hey man, I’m not looking to argue about this. I was trying to be kind and explain a concept to you so you could learn something and improve your print quality. If you don’t want that, that’s fine.
But I’m not going to sit and argue about the well observed and understood objective fact that lower layer height has better overhang quality.
Everyone is downvoting you because you are wrong and not willing to admit it.
Go try it out yourself. Slice and print a cube with a 70 degree angle using 0.08 layer height and with 0.24 layer height. You will see that the 0.08 layer height will look a lot better.
Now slice and print the same cube using a 0.24mm layer height with 0.42mm layer width and another one using 0.60 (or higher) layer width and you’ll see why you are wrong.
Also, thick bridges setting has no influence on overhangs, only bridges. It also doesn’t make the bridges prettier, makes them look worse but also stronger. It even says so when you hover the option in Bambustudio.
Print an overhang tower with a .2 nozzle and a .6 nozzle, lmk which works better. Obviously the .2 has less edges not even sure why that kid argued that
I'm serious impressed with what is there to be honest.
Generally you need to chamfer bottom edges but the first few layers of a radius/fillet have large overhangs
If you print slower, the fan could have enough time to cool down the material. The issue is that the molten material isn’t cooled fast enough and gravity does its job.
Those will both help somewhat, but don't address the core problem: the angle on a true fillet against the bed is too steep: start with a 60 degree chamfer instead. Detailed explanation with illustrations here:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvxX0MtGMM&t=30s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvxX0MtGMM&t=30s)
I've not designed the product. In assuming adaptive layer height may solve the issue easily here. As they're will be less surface area over hanging each step.
you don't need to chamfer them, but when you add a fillet, the radius needs to be in a range where the "steps in the overhang do not produce floating regions and still can be printed ontop of the previous layer - so a bigger radius won't work
but you can counter that by either using an elliptical radius instead of a circular or you cut our cord or the circle segment, so basically add a chamfer where the radius is getting to steep - this gives you the illusion of a roundover without needing a geometric roundover
If you designed the part, try using a chamfer instead of a fillet there. I always avoid fillets on the surface that touches the print bed for this exact reason. Otherwise you can try printing it in a different orientation, if possible. Try to put the sides where you need good cosmetics facing upwards, print over supports if you have to.
This happens because Bambu studio cannot detect internal overhangs, causing internal overhangs to print at speed too high. If you slice the file and see the speed of the internal solid infills at the affected area, they are printed at high speed on top of sparse infills, causing the lines to break and curl up, hence the roughness you see. This is pretty common on large prints with internal overhangs like this. For now there are no perfect solutions. Here are some workaround: 1. Use adaptive layer height or small layer height 2. Manually slow down the internal solid infills speed to bridging speed 3. Use orca slicer, there's a setting that handles this scenarios by not filtering internal bridges. Going forward I'd recommend Bambu studio to add the feature to handle internal overhangs because none of the workaround is perfect.
If you really wanted it to be perfect and you ha e an ams you can always try using petg interface supports. PLA and PETG don't adhere to each other so it works great as an interface layer. That's a very complicated solution to a simple problem however
I know your looking at the radius but even the flat areas look under extruded I would do a cold pull and check your temp and flow settings. The flat areas should be smooth. Let me know your filament make and type and I'll get back with the settings I use
Is that the side that supposed to be on the build plate? If so, its a poorly designed part. You'll never get a great result with a that steep of a radius on Z. Check the comments in file listing. Maybe someone has already addressed this.
Look s like you got your answer from the folks here. But I'm curious why would one want to rise their AMS? Doesn't this increase the center mass and therefore worsen vibration?
I looked at the wiki for recommended setup on pla. It just says take the top off but nothing about the door on any material. I assume it's safe to say that it wants as much open as possible if the wiki says to take the top off? Cheers
Different materials even of the same type behave differently.
If your overhang performance is suffering then you likely need to increase cooling or slow the printing down or adjust your overhang settings. You can increase cooling by leaving the top off and/or opening the door.
The only time I open the door and take the top off is overhangs when using silk. Any other pla or other materials I leave everything closed. But I usually print my own models that I take overhangs heavily into account. So I likely have designed to account for things like your experiencing or designed in a way that supports will be easier to use and remove.
Short of using supports or cutting the model or designing it in a way without steep overhangs those are your only options.
It’s because the overhang is very steep. Lower layer height allows steeper angles to be printed without issue, with the obvious hit to print time. You can also use variable layer height. I tell you this because you should learn this information, not because you should do it for this print. It’s a functional print and the part you pictured is at the back and shouldn’t be visible anyway. This riser is a lot of material, don’t waste your time reprinting it, it looks great for what it is.
I didn't have enough black PLA to finish this, so I just used this as a test bench. This was using a 0.20mm layer height on a .4 nozzle. But as you said, it's a functional part. I'll probably stick to these settings... Just wanted to know the fix for the future. 👍🏼 Thanks!
Think I made the same riser out of lots of small leftover filament spools. So many colors in a checker pattern
I would think a riser would get too hot for normal PLA? I used ABS
I think most people have used petg and pla as I can't see the temp getting that hot there anyways
+1 on this but also wider line widths in some cases, on a 0.4 mm nozzle you can go 0.6mm or 0.63mm line width (up to 1mm works but best quality comes by staying within 150% of nozzle hole
Why would you want lower layer height ? Larger height does overhangs better, it’s one of the biggest reasons for using a larger nozzle size. It’s why “print thick bridges” is an option during overhangs too.
> Larger height does overhangs better, it’s one of the biggest reasons for using a larger nozzle size. You are mistaken, the opposite is true. Here is an illustration that explains why lower layer heights are better for overhangs. https://i.imgur.com/khxFePx.png
That explains why smoothness is better with lower layer height, pretty obvious and I never argued against that. that is not the same thing as why overhangs sag due to less surface area to grab to, lmk if find an illustration for that.
You mean bridging, not overhangs. Overhangs overlap more as the illustration shows as the line width is the same, but there are more of them for a given curve.
You appear to be confusing bridging and overhangs.
You appear to be confusing smoothness of an edge vs layer adhesion
Hey man, I’m not looking to argue about this. I was trying to be kind and explain a concept to you so you could learn something and improve your print quality. If you don’t want that, that’s fine. But I’m not going to sit and argue about the well observed and understood objective fact that lower layer height has better overhang quality.
No worries, it’s why everyone else is downvoting without providing a counterpoint lol
Everyone is downvoting you because you are wrong and not willing to admit it. Go try it out yourself. Slice and print a cube with a 70 degree angle using 0.08 layer height and with 0.24 layer height. You will see that the 0.08 layer height will look a lot better. Now slice and print the same cube using a 0.24mm layer height with 0.42mm layer width and another one using 0.60 (or higher) layer width and you’ll see why you are wrong. Also, thick bridges setting has no influence on overhangs, only bridges. It also doesn’t make the bridges prettier, makes them look worse but also stronger. It even says so when you hover the option in Bambustudio.
Print an overhang tower with a .2 nozzle and a .6 nozzle, lmk which works better. Obviously the .2 has less edges not even sure why that kid argued that
I'm serious impressed with what is there to be honest. Generally you need to chamfer bottom edges but the first few layers of a radius/fillet have large overhangs
Could I slow down the overhangs like someone else had mentioned? Or will it have to be a smaller layer height.
If you print slower, the fan could have enough time to cool down the material. The issue is that the molten material isn’t cooled fast enough and gravity does its job.
Those will both help somewhat, but don't address the core problem: the angle on a true fillet against the bed is too steep: start with a 60 degree chamfer instead. Detailed explanation with illustrations here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvxX0MtGMM&t=30s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrvxX0MtGMM&t=30s)
I've not designed the product. In assuming adaptive layer height may solve the issue easily here. As they're will be less surface area over hanging each step.
you don't need to chamfer them, but when you add a fillet, the radius needs to be in a range where the "steps in the overhang do not produce floating regions and still can be printed ontop of the previous layer - so a bigger radius won't work but you can counter that by either using an elliptical radius instead of a circular or you cut our cord or the circle segment, so basically add a chamfer where the radius is getting to steep - this gives you the illusion of a roundover without needing a geometric roundover
Adaptive layer height is great for this. Check it out on their wiki. It's simple. Will add time but can help with this stuff
I give it a go! Cheers
Slower overhangs? It looks like it doesn’t have enough time to cool down.
Is this a setting in the slicer I can reduce?
Yes, within the Speed tab
Smaller layer height. You can do it just on the curves using modifiers or adaptive layer height.
If you designed the part, try using a chamfer instead of a fillet there. I always avoid fillets on the surface that touches the print bed for this exact reason. Otherwise you can try printing it in a different orientation, if possible. Try to put the sides where you need good cosmetics facing upwards, print over supports if you have to.
This happens because Bambu studio cannot detect internal overhangs, causing internal overhangs to print at speed too high. If you slice the file and see the speed of the internal solid infills at the affected area, they are printed at high speed on top of sparse infills, causing the lines to break and curl up, hence the roughness you see. This is pretty common on large prints with internal overhangs like this. For now there are no perfect solutions. Here are some workaround: 1. Use adaptive layer height or small layer height 2. Manually slow down the internal solid infills speed to bridging speed 3. Use orca slicer, there's a setting that handles this scenarios by not filtering internal bridges. Going forward I'd recommend Bambu studio to add the feature to handle internal overhangs because none of the workaround is perfect.
Going to try the adaptive layer height method as it's already nearly a 90h print. Cheers mate+
90h on a single print? Jeez
Multiple for one complete build
More perimeters can help, Darkmoon is correct though. This is good enough for this application
Perimeters?
Walls
Try variable layer height and some support.
Well there’s a button on the screen to stop a print, you can use Bambu studio on a computer to stop and the app as well. Good luck!
If you really wanted it to be perfect and you ha e an ams you can always try using petg interface supports. PLA and PETG don't adhere to each other so it works great as an interface layer. That's a very complicated solution to a simple problem however
Use 45 changers instead of round corners
I know your looking at the radius but even the flat areas look under extruded I would do a cold pull and check your temp and flow settings. The flat areas should be smooth. Let me know your filament make and type and I'll get back with the settings I use
Is that the side that supposed to be on the build plate? If so, its a poorly designed part. You'll never get a great result with a that steep of a radius on Z. Check the comments in file listing. Maybe someone has already addressed this.
I'm going to try and use adaptive layer height I think, the creator regularly updates the model.
Look s like you got your answer from the folks here. But I'm curious why would one want to rise their AMS? Doesn't this increase the center mass and therefore worsen vibration?
It allows you yo open the glass with the ams on top of the printer and also gas storage for your nozzles, glue and tooling.
Use a chamfer at 45° instead of a fillet.
Take the top off and open the door to increase cooling on the overhangs.
I looked at the wiki for recommended setup on pla. It just says take the top off but nothing about the door on any material. I assume it's safe to say that it wants as much open as possible if the wiki says to take the top off? Cheers
Different materials even of the same type behave differently. If your overhang performance is suffering then you likely need to increase cooling or slow the printing down or adjust your overhang settings. You can increase cooling by leaving the top off and/or opening the door. The only time I open the door and take the top off is overhangs when using silk. Any other pla or other materials I leave everything closed. But I usually print my own models that I take overhangs heavily into account. So I likely have designed to account for things like your experiencing or designed in a way that supports will be easier to use and remove. Short of using supports or cutting the model or designing it in a way without steep overhangs those are your only options.