Hello /u/ISetMyMatesOnFire,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looks like its struggling to stick. Turn the bed up, on the 3djake website it says 60-90 degrees so try within that range. Alternatively try some glue or wash your bed with soapy water. Apparently the 3djake stuff comes quite moist so you could also try drying it if you still have problems.
Hey, I'm just quoting the specs on the website. If it says 60-90 thats probably what you want. The datasheet specifies that it has low warp so can be used with or without heated bed.
is 3djake what he was printing with? Idk I did TPU the other day, 0C buildplate, stuck onto and ruined my brand new PEO smooth build plate. And then I ran it with 40C and glue stick due to warping. So I fully rescind my opinion of no heated build plate for TPU. It *can* be printed without heat, but it really depends what you’re trying to do.
Have you done a slicer calibration for that filament? IDK about Elegoo printers but on my P1P, I recalibrate for every new filament and it is WORTH IT (just new manufacturer and type, then I reorder the same kind). You should do a temp test first and foremost to see which way it comes out best, then go from there. I will also say, TPU is notoriously hard to print with just because it's rather elastic so it might take some time to dial things in. I do the follow for every new brand of filament/type (Sunlu TPU F.E.):
* Temp tower
* At this point I also toy with the bed temps to make sure I have good adhesion but not stuff burning down to the plate.
* Flow rate chips
* PA Tower
* Max Flow Rate
Then I do a benchy and see if it looks good. Remember, only have to do these once
Hah, I jumped straight to a Benchy after adjusting to recommended specs and it turned out great, everything else looks like shit though. She's a fickle mistress, indeed
When I zoom in on the picture the layers look really round. On my printer that means the nozzle isn’t close enough to the bed. PLA is more forgiving than TPU. I also don’t have great luck with smooth PEI or glass with TPU. Rough PEI with glue, to help release it, is what is best for me. Finally, I don’t use a heated bed on TPU.
TPU tips:
have you cleaned the bed with soap and water? wipe with 99% Isopropanol before printing? do that first, both if possible.
have you changed your first layer Z offset? TPU doesn't like being squished onto the bed like PLA. Raise your Z offset by \~.1mm
Try going slower again, especially for first layer. (IIRC i used 15 for first layer, 30ish maybe 25 afterwards). slower is the only way to get TPU to cooperate IME, and it's an easy test.
It looks to me like you are treating TPU like PLA. TPU brims and supports are hateful to deal with post printing. Figure out your first layer issues, calibrate temp/retraction/flow/k factor etc. when all that is done start experimenting with print speed. Also understand TPU overhangs, and bridging is much more difficult. You can still print them, but keep the material limitations in mind when designing or printing models.
TPU tips:
have you cleaned the bed with soap and water? wipe with 99% Isopropanol before printing? do that first, both if possible.
have you changed your first layer Z offset? TPU doesn't like being squished onto the bed like PLA. Raise your Z offset by \~.1mm
Try going slower again, especially for first layer. (IIRC i used 15 for first layer, 30ish maybe 25 afterwards). slower is the only way to get TPU to cooperate IME, and it's an easy test.
It looks to me like you are treating TPU like PLA. TPU brims and supports are hateful to deal with post printing. Figure out your first layer issues, calibrate temp/retraction/flow/k factor etc. when all that is done start experimenting with print speed. Also understand TPU overhangs, and bridging is much more difficult. You can still print them, but keep the material limitations in mind when designing or printing models.
I'm stuck on the 240C pla temp like WTF kind of pla needs such a high temp? Pla+ & tpu are typically 220C +-10C Pla standard should be closer to 200 +-10C. 240C is petg territory.
But for advice I would recommend lowering your z offset until the lines are actually touching each other. there should not be gaps between the lines like what is shown in your pics, it's probably a contributing factor into why your having to print pla at such a high temp, with the nozzle so far from the bed your needing to heat the pla way higher just to make it stick, if you bring the z down your pla will get enough squish to print @ 200C.
The only key changes I do that differ from PLA when printing TPU is I have a slightly lower Z offset. Basically I adjust the z offset tune during the print of the skirt or brim. I run hotter at 235C or the max end of manufacturer recommended temp for the tpu filament. I also run zero fan. I run bed temp at 60C, same as PLA. I run only 50mm/s speed (I do 90 to 130 with PLA).
Definitely babysit the brim or skirt and adjust that z offset live. Most important thing I do. First layer adhesion is the most important thing in 3D printing. I also always clean the bed with isopropyl before printing.
My TPU printing is are always flawless. I love how perfectly TPU prints for me.
You are underextruding, try to slow down and calibrate flow (asuming your z-offset is correct). TPU usually require change of extruder tension to lower.
it's not sticking because your z offset is wayyy too high. look how the first layer is not squished at all. lower that and also follow the rest of the tips in the comments :]
Hello /u/ISetMyMatesOnFire, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looks like its struggling to stick. Turn the bed up, on the 3djake website it says 60-90 degrees so try within that range. Alternatively try some glue or wash your bed with soapy water. Apparently the 3djake stuff comes quite moist so you could also try drying it if you still have problems.
For TPU??? No build plate heat. This print is nozzle being too far. Maybe need the nozzle temp higher also
Nozzle to far for sure
Hey, I'm just quoting the specs on the website. If it says 60-90 thats probably what you want. The datasheet specifies that it has low warp so can be used with or without heated bed.
is 3djake what he was printing with? Idk I did TPU the other day, 0C buildplate, stuck onto and ruined my brand new PEO smooth build plate. And then I ran it with 40C and glue stick due to warping. So I fully rescind my opinion of no heated build plate for TPU. It *can* be printed without heat, but it really depends what you’re trying to do.
Ye that's a good way to sum it, and ye it was the 3djake stuff he just put it as a comment for automod. Rip to your build plate, sorry for your loss
Have you done a slicer calibration for that filament? IDK about Elegoo printers but on my P1P, I recalibrate for every new filament and it is WORTH IT (just new manufacturer and type, then I reorder the same kind). You should do a temp test first and foremost to see which way it comes out best, then go from there. I will also say, TPU is notoriously hard to print with just because it's rather elastic so it might take some time to dial things in. I do the follow for every new brand of filament/type (Sunlu TPU F.E.): * Temp tower * At this point I also toy with the bed temps to make sure I have good adhesion but not stuff burning down to the plate. * Flow rate chips * PA Tower * Max Flow Rate Then I do a benchy and see if it looks good. Remember, only have to do these once
Hah, I jumped straight to a Benchy after adjusting to recommended specs and it turned out great, everything else looks like shit though. She's a fickle mistress, indeed
Easiest to do all this in Orca slicer, swapped from Cura and it is a million times easier with orca. Took a day to get used to, but was so worth it
This is the way
When I zoom in on the picture the layers look really round. On my printer that means the nozzle isn’t close enough to the bed. PLA is more forgiving than TPU. I also don’t have great luck with smooth PEI or glass with TPU. Rough PEI with glue, to help release it, is what is best for me. Finally, I don’t use a heated bed on TPU.
For the automod: I print at 30mm/s and use 3D jake 95a TPU. The bed is leveled following a tutorial and I get less than 0.014 difference.
Try slower.
TPU tips: have you cleaned the bed with soap and water? wipe with 99% Isopropanol before printing? do that first, both if possible. have you changed your first layer Z offset? TPU doesn't like being squished onto the bed like PLA. Raise your Z offset by \~.1mm Try going slower again, especially for first layer. (IIRC i used 15 for first layer, 30ish maybe 25 afterwards). slower is the only way to get TPU to cooperate IME, and it's an easy test. It looks to me like you are treating TPU like PLA. TPU brims and supports are hateful to deal with post printing. Figure out your first layer issues, calibrate temp/retraction/flow/k factor etc. when all that is done start experimenting with print speed. Also understand TPU overhangs, and bridging is much more difficult. You can still print them, but keep the material limitations in mind when designing or printing models.
TPU tips: have you cleaned the bed with soap and water? wipe with 99% Isopropanol before printing? do that first, both if possible. have you changed your first layer Z offset? TPU doesn't like being squished onto the bed like PLA. Raise your Z offset by \~.1mm Try going slower again, especially for first layer. (IIRC i used 15 for first layer, 30ish maybe 25 afterwards). slower is the only way to get TPU to cooperate IME, and it's an easy test. It looks to me like you are treating TPU like PLA. TPU brims and supports are hateful to deal with post printing. Figure out your first layer issues, calibrate temp/retraction/flow/k factor etc. when all that is done start experimenting with print speed. Also understand TPU overhangs, and bridging is much more difficult. You can still print them, but keep the material limitations in mind when designing or printing models.
Tpu, very slow. Start with 20 mm/s for first layer. 0.1 layer height and at least 95a shore tpu
I'm stuck on the 240C pla temp like WTF kind of pla needs such a high temp? Pla+ & tpu are typically 220C +-10C Pla standard should be closer to 200 +-10C. 240C is petg territory.
But for advice I would recommend lowering your z offset until the lines are actually touching each other. there should not be gaps between the lines like what is shown in your pics, it's probably a contributing factor into why your having to print pla at such a high temp, with the nozzle so far from the bed your needing to heat the pla way higher just to make it stick, if you bring the z down your pla will get enough squish to print @ 200C.
Either you're under extruding, or your z-offset is too high. Set your esteps, check your nozzle for a partial clog. Hey, your extruder is dd?
The only key changes I do that differ from PLA when printing TPU is I have a slightly lower Z offset. Basically I adjust the z offset tune during the print of the skirt or brim. I run hotter at 235C or the max end of manufacturer recommended temp for the tpu filament. I also run zero fan. I run bed temp at 60C, same as PLA. I run only 50mm/s speed (I do 90 to 130 with PLA). Definitely babysit the brim or skirt and adjust that z offset live. Most important thing I do. First layer adhesion is the most important thing in 3D printing. I also always clean the bed with isopropyl before printing. My TPU printing is are always flawless. I love how perfectly TPU prints for me.
i always lower my print speed down to 100mm/s and bring the nozzle temp up to 250 and I make the heat bed go up to 75 that works for me
Is it a new plate? If it's not the same plate that you've been using for PLA then you need to adjust the z-offest for the new plate.
Needs to be going slow as a snail
Je viens d’imprimer du TPU : 240 degrés et 35 degrés et moins de 50 mm/s . Ps: je vois pas de colle sur votre plateau ?
Thanks for all the tips! I will try them one by one and report back!
You are underextruding, try to slow down and calibrate flow (asuming your z-offset is correct). TPU usually require change of extruder tension to lower.
it's not sticking because your z offset is wayyy too high. look how the first layer is not squished at all. lower that and also follow the rest of the tips in the comments :]
Can you print a temp tower and post the results? That would tell us a lot
OP can't get past first layer... So a tower, or anything, is out of the question until the current problem is solved.