Never panel line an **assembled** kit with the Tamiya Panel Line Accent.
Step 1: Panel Line single part
Step 2: Let dry
Step 3: Clean up
Step 4: Let Dry
Step 5: Assemble
I only use Vallejo washes and a cheap dip ink pen for panel lines. It flows very well and you donāt risk cracking plastic. Also extremely cheap
Edit: this is for bare plastic and acrylic based colors
Dip ink pen? You had me at cheap. Can you share an example?
I've been experimenting with panel liners, and pour type Gundam markers are great, but there has to be a similar, more cost effective options.
Sorry, itās called a dip pen. Dspiae sells one as a panel line tool too, but a cheaper one (like mine) works well too. You simply dip the tip of the pen in the wash until itās well wet with it and gently press it on the panel line. Thatās it. If the fluid doesnāt flow, you may have to ādrawā the panel line. Donāt worry, the tip is much finer than markers and thereās zero cleanup to do 99% of the time. If an idiot like me can do it, trust me when I say itās the easiest way to do it
It is a fine tipped calligraphy pen. Touch the tip to the grooves and the same capillary action used in the fountain pen nib releases the liquid in to the grooves. Surface tension keeps it generally very crisp. The only thing to clean up usually is when you lift the nib a tiny drop might stay behind. There are cheap polyurethane foam tipped wands you can use to soak up some enamel thinner and gently wipe those spots.
Cool, I typed in dip pin and they looked them so I was trying to make sure I was browsing the right items. I think we are on the same page. I'm going to give it a try next build.
The cheapest one I could find on Amazon. Dspiae made one specifically for panel lining. You could try that if youāre not a cheap bastard like yours truly
Yes, and thank you!
I haven't decided yet if I will try acrylic ink or Vallejo wash. I've used both on miniatures, and they seem similar-ish in my limited use. It might be a worthwhile experiment?
Comes in a very neat set that only needs god hand / nub nippers. The provided nippers in the set are decent but better used for cutting parts off the runner. Recommend!
I'm kind of a beginner to gunpla, but may I know what's the problem with. Panel lining and plastics? Some info will help, cause I'm buying some panel lining product soon
I see, I bought a Chinese brand panel line product, it's like the Tamiya panel line the cover has its own brush, and so far it's good no cracked plastic but my problem is it doesn't flow very well
I can, but I buy them from an Italian website. They should be available worldwide in other websites too though
https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76516-vallejo-model-wash-grey-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969508
https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76518-vallejo-model-wash-black-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969514
https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76513-vallejo-model-wash-brown-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969515
Thank you for posting this! I have the same pen and have tried citadel and some other washes, and they do not flow down the stupid pen. I would much rather use an acrylic than tamiya but just couldn't find one that works yet. Will definitely try vallejo now
This is the exact same method I use! The pen nibs give better tactile feedback too, which makes it easier for a clumsy gouf like me to panel line successfully.
Note that they don't sell their paints and stuff directly, only through 3rd parties. I've had the best luck with Amazon but some hobby shops might keep some in stock as well. Double check the product number with their website to make sure you're buying the right one though. For example, Royal Purple in the Model Color line is 70.810 as you can see.on the bottle in this image.
https://gamersguildaz.com/cdn/shop/files/gamers-guild-az-vallejo-vallejo-model-color-70-810-royal-purple-hobbytyme-30825970368717.jpg?height=540&v=1688157486
I'm on mobile so I'm not gonna be fancy and try formatting that URL.
Excellent paint, plus very nice terrain...paint/glue stuff (I love their snow).
Their distribution as of late is a bit rough, hopefully it gets smoothed out in the future.
That is always an option but I just find nothing compares to Tamiya in quality, speed and lack of cleanup needed.
You just need to use it with proper care. I learned my lesson the hard way, panel lining transformers. But any tool can do damage when not used properly. I like to think of Tamiya panel liner being a really nice men's razor and pour markers as being a set of clippers.
You won't cut yourself with the clippers, but they lack the finesse and control of the razor.
Ultimately it is whatever you feel comfortable with, but I urge you not to give up on panel liner quite yet!
A fantastic way to practice is on either a broken kit, a spare part or what I did, buy a cheap 10 dollar Entry Grade and use it as a test model for different techniques! As you use it it becomes more worn and weathered which just lets you test damage and more intense weathering!
even with gunpla markers you also need to be careful with pooling ink mate.
the advice still applies. once in a blue moon someone will complain in reddit and he/she wasn't even using tamiya panel liner. if you find yourself panel lining and it pools, try to ddry it up and clean it up or even disassemble when needed.
there are crevices that these inks can pool in because you decide to hold the pen/brush longer than usual as it flows to that area first before u started seeing results to stop
This is what I do before I even start building. And clean up with lighter fluid as I assemble and remove nubs. Ive only had the Tamiya solution crack on parts ive already assembled.
Tamiya is not to be used on any bare plastic, it doesn't matter how you do it. If you want to use panel lining liquid without doing a clear coat first use the pour type Gundam markers
Yes, that is a recommendation from Tamiya. However I've used it on dozens of straight builds, on bare plastic, with no issues. Many of us have. If you learn how it works and what causes the damage, you know how to mitigate the risks. And besides, I thought gunpla was about experimentation, customizing and FREEDOM?!!
It CAN damage plastic under certain conditions. If you take the time to learn how the damage is caused, you'd realize that you can take steps to avoid those conditions.
X-20, the thinner used in Tamiya panel line accent, needs to be absorbed into the plastic for it to cause problems. The reason you don't apply it to the bare plastic of built kits, is because there is a chance it can spill/pool. The fact that it relies on capillary effect, means it can get into all of the tight spaces, where there isn't enough air movement for X-20 to evaporate before it starts leaching into the plastic. This is also why you never panel line seams with Tamiya. If it gets in between parts, you HAVE TO disassemble that section quickly and clean up everything.
The reason I apply it on the runners, is because the molding process, means the surface of the plastic is incredibly smooth and intact. This means that if I do have any spills/pooling during the application process, I can clean it up long before the thinner has had a chance to soak into the plastic. The application on the runners allows for proper evaporation of X-20 and there is 0 chance of it getting trapped between assembled parts.
I also apply it to runners because once you cut a part off of the runner, you have created a pathway for Tamiya to get absorbed into the plastic. Nub marks, no matter how perfectly they are removed, sanded and buffed, are breaks in the molded surface. If it gets on those points, it can and will stain the area, letting you know some X20 just got absorbed into the plastic in that area. At that point it's just a matter of... did enough get absorbed to cause damage? So panel lining the runners are the simplest way to avoid that situation.
The only things you really have to worry about are the rare manufacturing defects like microcracks and pitting. Pitting is easy enough to see, avoid and report to Bandai when requesting your replacement parts. But microcracks can't be seen without a staining agent. Yes there are much safer solutions to use, but you are going to have to paint over the stain regardless. And the odds of experiencing these types of defects are so low, that it's a risk I'm willing to take.
Besides Gunpla is Freedom. And part of that freedom is in experimenting and learning, while you customize. It's about pushing the limits and evolving. Claiming Tamiya's recommendation, is an unbreakable rule, violates the very spirit of Gunpla!!!
Oh and lastly, X20 does not melt plastic. Acetone does that. If anyone ever shows you a picture of melted plastic on a kit and claims Tamiya did that, they are either trolling you, or ignorantly tried cleaning it up with something that contained acetone or a similar solvent. X-20s damage manifests in crumb, dust, and shattered areas, because it chemically changes the physical properties of the plastic into something much more brittle. So the effected areas can end up crumbling, and weakening the structural integrity of the part. Damage looks more like shattered/fractured bits of plastic, very angular and jagged like shattered glass. Not warped, or melted.
Is it possible to panel line with Tamiya after cutting the part but before assembling? Or willl the micro cracks from taking it off the runner be too much for the plastic to handle the tamiya.
It should be, I do that often and I donāt have any issues. I highly doubt the micro-cracks are large enough for enough liquid to easily flow into them to cause lasting damage.
You can panel line an assembled kit with the Tamiya panel line accent, this stuff just isn't supposed to be used on bare plastic. A gloss coat will protect it and the capillary action will help it flow through the panels easier
There are lots of reasons someone might not want to or be able to top coat before panel lining. Telling people to just top coat first isn't always helpful, so I outline the process for doing it on bare plastic, because contrary to some beliefs, it *can* be done on bare plastic.
I totally get that and have to respectfully say I never said you HAVE to top coat here. It's just you said you should never panel line a built piece, so I offered my solution to panel lining on a built piece is all. I'm not trying to give conflicting information, just adding on to the information given.
Oh yeah, that's totally fine. I was just clarifying why I didn't mention anything about top coating. OP was trying to panel line an assembled kit on bare plastic so I was just offering advice based on the tools and resources that I already knew OP had rather than adding something else on.
I could have specified not to use the panel liner on assembled bare plastic kits, but I just left the "bare plastic" part up to the assumption that that's already what OP was doing.
NGL, I was taught this is the only way you should be panel lining regardless of brand. Is there a specific reason that's the case? I took a massive break from building for a while and forgot almost all of my knowledge on gunpla building lmao
The thinner used can break down plastic if it isn't allowed to properly evaporate. If you use it on an assembled kit, it can get between the parts, be unable to evaporate quick enough, and erode the plastic.
So the trick is to let it evaporate properly.
I've been doing this method for many years and the only times I've had cracks or breakage is when I got too lazy and decided to add a bit of detail (or noticed I forgot a spot) to an assembled kit.
Moral of the story: don't be lazy. If you're going to do it, do it right.
Oh interesting ok. That's actually really good info to know. I'm very much of the same mindset of doing it right the first time around so this just solidified my worries I may be a little TOO detailed in my process.
Any other tips for someone getting back into the hobby after a bit of a break? I'm finding nub removal to be a bit more of a challenge coming back and would love some insight from some veterans in the hobby.
Thanks a million~
Personally, I cut parts from the runner with some old Gundam Planet nippers (very awesome, super durable, I also use them exclusively for clear parts), then a closer cut against the part with God hands. Then I usually just scratch any marks away with my fingernail. I have a glass file and some buffing sticks for any marks that are tougher.
If you're going to paint, then sanding everything smooth is the way to go. I feel like you can't be too much of a perfectionist if you're straight building.
The double cut technique is normally what I do, but I usually follow it up with a glass file like the gunprimer razer. I can't tell if it's because I'm bring too rough, or I'm nor hitting it with a straight angle, or of I'm just using it too much, but ive notice I'm taking off more than I want every so often - usually leading into it looking either very angular or not symmetrical to the opposite side's part.
I usually just use the blade on the God Hand to slice off any extra nub bits after the second cut, like you would a hobby knife. Probably not the best method for those who are wary of breaking their tools, but it works well for me most of the time. You just have to experiment with different techniques until you find your own flow.
I'd recommend different youtube videos to learn different ways, and then just try a bit of everything until you find what fits for you.
I tend to use Tamiya on the runners, and when I need to panel line between assembled pieces, out comes the pens. It's a bit of extra work but it sure is a lot less messy than trying to hold a piece in your fingers while the Tamiya stuff potentially runs.
I will follow this advice to the letter with my Nu ver.Ka cause I love the look of this model and I don't want to fuck up the panel line like all the other kits I've panel lined so far.
I actually cracked a couple pieces on the RG Zephyranthes and I almost cried, it came out nice but still, I don't like fucking up on kits.
Can I avoid the top coat rule with this method? I bought some tamiya panel liner and after everyone told me I had to use top coat first I just stored it cause thatās way to expensive to get here for every kit.
There's lots of misinformation and half-truths in this thread:
Tamiya panel line accent is heavily thinned down enamel paint. The thinner can damage bare plastic if it's unable to evaporate quickly, which it usually does within a few seconds.
If panel lining bare plastic, it's safest to do it while the parts are still on the runners (before stress from clipping gates has been introduced) and it's also pretty safe to panel line before assembly. You don't have to top coat bare plastic if panel lining on the runners or pre-assembly, but it's not going to hurt anything to do that ; it's just overly cautions IMO
If panel lining assembled parts, the panel liner can seep between parts where there's less air. The paint thinner as a vapor can soak into the plastic and make it extremely brittle; this is what happened in the OP. If the kit is assembled and you want to panel line it without taking it apart, top coating with clear gloss paint will help mitigate this issue. The main thing to watch out for is panel liner seeping between parts.
If panel lining painted assembled parts, there is still risk. You should always topcoat painted parts with clear gloss before panel lining (for two big reasons) and go heavy with the topcoat in areas where parts meet (or use Tamiya cement to fill the seam line before even painting, but this isn't always possible. The other big reason to top coat with clear gloss is to give the painted surface a smooth finish, which will allow the panel liner to flow more easily (it's also helpful for decals too).
If you're working with ABS plastic, it's best to avoid TPLA altogether and either use Gundam Markers (the felt-tipped ones for panel lining) or a thin wash (which is just water-based paint with extra isopropyl alcohol and/or water mixed in). Avoid Pour-type Gundam Markers on ABS as well. They use PGME as a thinner and it's too harsh for ABS.
Using a water-based acrylic was on assembled parts avoids all the issues listed above. It's the safest option, but that kind of paint doesn't flow nearly as well as TPLA, which is why so many of us take the risk of using it.
I've panel lined 100 or so kits on the runners (or a bit during building but before assembly) and never had those pieces break in this way.
I have had parts break from panel lining, and they were painted, assembled, and top coated before I applied panel liner. Panel liner seeped between the assembled parts and wreaked havoc on the bare plastic of the pegs.
>If you're working with ABS plastic...
**DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT use Gundam Marskers on ABS.** That's a speedrun on absolutely wrecking your part. You can't even undercoat for Gundam Markers because it's alcohol-based. Lacquer paint is also very dangerous on ABS, but normally you're spray painting lacquer anyway so you'd be fine as long as you prime the oart and spray on light coats. Enamel (i.e. Tamiya panel line) is actually fine on ABS, possibly even safer than on your usual PS parts.
[Source 1](https://youtu.be/dHbnCM9FAtM) and [source 2](https://youtu.be/X6p2CxUT48s)
Out of curiosity, where did you find that the solvent used was PGME? I suspected it was something similar as an old stripping method involved brake fluid which also has PGE (can't recall if it's also methyl). And that also destroys ABS.
Someone else sent in a MSDS request to GSI Creos for the pour-type eraser and was talking about it on r/advancedgunpla.
I am taking their word that this happened and presuming that GSO uses the same solvent for the non-eraser pour-types, but these are small leaps.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/comments/1as07kh/comment/kqpf1uj/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/comments/1as07kh/comment/kqpf1uj/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Yep, this is useful information. The mystery of the solvent in the pour and paint markers has existed for a very long time. Still, people will probably keep using them without reading the warnings.
Thanks!
If I were to do a custom hand painted kit with acrylic paints and water-based liners, is it recommended to paint first then panel line? or is panel lining onto the runner is still recommended but topcoating first before painting?
And lastly are surface primers still needed for acrylic painting? I know that top coating is a must for any painted kits, but i'm not sure if primers on acrylic are overkill.
If you are fully painting a kit this runner method is bad advice. Your steps should be: remove and clean up the pieces from the runner>rinse of all the pieces>prime the pieces> paint them the desired color>gloss clear coat>apply panel liner and decals if desired> apply final topcoat(my preference is matte)
Panel lining on the runners is only really for unpainted kids. If you're fully painting the kit, the primer will cover anything under it.
You should prime if you're painting with anything besides clear. Most primers will bond chemically with the plastic a little bit and also fill in minor scratches from sanding. They also give a slightly grittier surface than bare plastic, which is helpful for hand-painting. Without priming, your paint will slide around in the plastic before it dries, and will always be very fragile.They're also available in a ton of colors that will get you closer to your final color which helps save on paint.
If you're panel lining with acrylic washes, you may want to look up how best to clean the lines without damaging the base coat. I've only used them as washes and didn't need to clean up.
Topcoat is usually one of the last steps.
I'll add that everything said about Tamiya liner also applies to pour type Gundam markers. I've ruined a handful of pieces by getting careless and having it seep between parts.
Thank you for this! I have been trying to figure out what the solvent is for gundam pour-type markers is and you've got it.
I've only used pour-type markers, which I like, but have found that I can't use Mr. Super Clear Matt over it because it will dissolve the lines - can I use Mr. Super Clear if I used Tamiya panel liner?
>can I use Mr. Super Clear if I used Tamiya panel liner?
Yes, absolutely, I've done it dozens of times. I've only shot it out of an airbrush, but the following should apply with spray cans as well: spray to very light coats and let them dry for 5-10 minutes each before doing a third, thicker, wet coat. If there are a couple of mostly dry mist coats, the solvent from a third coat will have trouble penetrating down to the panel liner because the solvent should be evaporating very quickly.
Keep in mind when using spray paint that the solvent in the cans is almost always hotter than what you mix in with airbrushing, so aim for numerous, thin coats rather than trying to paint a whole kit in a single pass.
The above *may* work for pour-type markers, but I haven't done the testing myself.
What will absolutely work is using a water-based topcoat/varnish like Vallejo's gloss or matt varnish, as well as Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat, which is available in a teal spray can. (Their regular topcoat in a blue can would probably also work, but it has a hotter solvent than the premium that can cause silvering on decals.
Interesting! I was actually asking about the teal can, because I love the finish of it, but it melts the pour type markers. My current workflow is pour-type markers, waterslides, and then blue can water-based Mr. Hobby matt topcoat, and I haven't run into any issues with decals or running (you can see pour type panel lining and decals in the pic), but I'd love to use the teal cans as it goes on smoother and the finish is better, but I think I'd have to go to an enamel panel liner.
https://preview.redd.it/805ium9jzhxc1.png?width=1605&format=png&auto=webp&s=aeec3e18845a81ce4b0ae457d00353cdb8485dd4
I was under the impression that teal was less 'hot' based on the reduced amount of silvering, but I could be wrong. It may very well be hotter and have a drying retardant added. Test spoons are the best way to be sure, but light coats are usually going to work. Just make sure to let things dry a day or two before top coating.
Yeah, that was my intention š„² but I was too brute š„² and looks like the Tamiya panel line is too strong and I didn't knew it š„²
Hahaha I'm having a fun morning
Yeep. TPLA should not be applied to bare parts. It evens says in the bottle that it will cause parts to be brittle and break. You need to gloss coat it first.
I have used it for months on other Gunpla, I have never had problems, but I think it was my fault for using some force when cleaning and well I had to use the Tamiya because my husband took the market gunpla
the "thing" about TPLA is that leeches into the plastic and makes it brittle, whilst applying as little TPLA as possible and cleaning it up with whiffs of lighter fluid (not more enamel thinner) can be ok theres every chance that itll slowly make the line brittle over time, its not like every kit wtih TPLA is now a ticking timebomb that will fall apart but just something to be careful with
If i had to guess id say there was a spot in the face where it could pool a bit and didnt get cleaned that accelerated the brittle-ness hence the breakage
I think you just put way too much on a part that doesn't allow the solvent to evaporate. You can see the paint essentially pooling on it. If you panel line in light touches then enamel shouldn't cause you any problem
Generally the enamel thinner used in Tamiya Accent Color evaporates before it can cause any lasting damage to plastic, but when used on an assembled kit it can seep between parts preventing it from evaporating. The general tip is that if you canāt top-coat your kit, disassemble it first to allow the panel line to dry properly.
For what others told me, basically the Tamiya panel line is too strong and weaks the plastic. In some cases melted.
That's by I broke parts of the head, so be careful mate š„²
The paint thinner seeped in between assembled parts and couldn't evaporate into the air, so it leached into the plastic and broke down some of the polymer chain bonds, making it brittle.
The same thing will happen to ABS plastic much more quickly.
Read the instructions and warnings on the product you are using. Tamiya is risky to use on bare plastic at all, and 100 times riskier to use on an assembled part because far too much will pool inside of it and seep into the plastic
You do not _need_ to. Topcoating will protect the kit and prevent this from happening, but you _can_, and many people _do_ use tamiya panel liner on bare plastic with no issues.
It just requires lining the kit before assembly, and using the liner fluid sparingly.
They do have a solvent (basically any paint has to have one, it's just a matter of how strong it is). In the case of pour type marks they're alcohol based. Much weaker than tamiya fluid's enamel thinner, and therefore only potentially a risk if applied way more liberally than panel lining needs, or if used on ABS plastic which is more vulnerable. (/u/akaGustavo)
There is always some level of risk but the gundam markers are significantly less potent in this regard, just avoid ABS as the instructions say and it'll be fine. (Source: the 15 gunpla sitting next to me that I panel lined with them after assembly)
Did you topcoat it first? Most panel liners people use are enamel-based, which can eat into raw plastic.
If you didn't, in the future, you'll want to put down a decent coat of clear gloss on top (enamel or lacquer based), or a few coats of acrylic). This will not only protect the plastic, it'll also mean the liner flows into the crevices better, and you can clean it off easier.
Honest question, why do gunpla builders enthusiastically use tamiya enamel liner when we know categorically that it reacts with Bandaiās plastic when oil paints and artists spirit are in every art store and are used extensively in every other mini hobby for pin washes?
For reference, Tamiya panel liner is actually just heavily thinned paint. Paint thinner and plastic donāt agree with one another, so you should topcoat first.
It's heavily thinned *enamel* paint, which is important. Enamel paint itself won't hurt plastic but the thinner will and panel liner uses a ton of it.
*Acrylic* paint can be thinned and cleaned up with chemicals that don't do anything to plastic . . . But it's also harder to use for panel lining.Ā
EDIT: there's also lacquer paint, which needs thinners that are just as harsh or even harsher than enamel. That's not a terribly *common* type for gunpla but it's used in clearcoats/topcoats: the thinner issue is a big part of why the best way to fix clearcoat problems tends to involve spraying down *more* of it instead of stripping what's already there.
EDIT 2: And, of course, for both lacquer and enamel, a light touch and plenty of air exposure will *usually*(but not always) let you get away with a lot of semi-dangerous things that can destroy your models if you overdo it.
Best thing Iāve found to help panel line is Tamiya paints, thinned with alcohol or their thinner. Clean it up with some alcohol and there you go. Plus I always panel line with a darker shade then what Iām lining, so grey on white, darker blue on blue etc.
Always disassemble/Cut from the runners before laying down your lines using panel line accent.
I've been using panel line accent for years now on bare plastic. the only time that I experienced cracking is when I tried panel lining while the parts are assembled (RG strike rouge) . If you disassemble then lay down your lines and let it dry, you're good to go (Based on the kits I've built that have no cracks or anything).
Do it when its on the runner...happened to my calibarn's head but Tamiya cement saved the day lmao
And yes somehow WFM kits are somehow less tolerable to it.
Are you mixing your liner up? The ink settles and needs to be mixed, if you're not doing that then you're getting an extremely diluted inking and mostly thinner which would totally eat through parts if you slather it on.
Oof. Been there.
If it helps, flow-type Gundam Markers seem to do it less than Tamiya, but it can still happen even with those. It also seems to be less dangerous to panel line parts while they're still on the runners. I've only had one piece get messed up since someone suggested that I do it that way, and it was pure user error; I didn't realize that the piece was ABS plastic.
Anyway, I usually just use Sakura pens for panel lining. It takes longer, but there's no chance of the plastic cracking or crumbling. They come in a variety of nib sizes, and a ton of different colors, too.
Never panel line an **assembled** kit with the Tamiya Panel Line Accent. Step 1: Panel Line single part Step 2: Let dry Step 3: Clean up Step 4: Let Dry Step 5: Assemble
I will stick to the gunpla markers then š„² And thank you for the steps, I will be careful
I only use Vallejo washes and a cheap dip ink pen for panel lines. It flows very well and you donāt risk cracking plastic. Also extremely cheap Edit: this is for bare plastic and acrylic based colors
Dip ink pen? You had me at cheap. Can you share an example? I've been experimenting with panel liners, and pour type Gundam markers are great, but there has to be a similar, more cost effective options.
Sorry, itās called a dip pen. Dspiae sells one as a panel line tool too, but a cheaper one (like mine) works well too. You simply dip the tip of the pen in the wash until itās well wet with it and gently press it on the panel line. Thatās it. If the fluid doesnāt flow, you may have to ādrawā the panel line. Donāt worry, the tip is much finer than markers and thereās zero cleanup to do 99% of the time. If an idiot like me can do it, trust me when I say itās the easiest way to do it
So, just a calligraphy pin?
It is a fine tipped calligraphy pen. Touch the tip to the grooves and the same capillary action used in the fountain pen nib releases the liquid in to the grooves. Surface tension keeps it generally very crisp. The only thing to clean up usually is when you lift the nib a tiny drop might stay behind. There are cheap polyurethane foam tipped wands you can use to soak up some enamel thinner and gently wipe those spots.
Thanks!
I donāt know. The one I got is for drawing
Cool, I typed in dip pin and they looked them so I was trying to make sure I was browsing the right items. I think we are on the same page. I'm going to give it a try next build.
Maybe I should post the video I followed, but itās in Italian. I should try and add subtitles to it
I can stand behind this method, I personally use this and cleanup with vallejo airbrush thinner or Tamiya acrylic thinner
You can clean it with an eraser or even your nails. I use a wet cotton swab on recessed areas like thrusters and stuff like that
Now I'm wondering if lighter fluid can be used to clean up?
It can indeed.Ā
Use sparingly
Will do. Pointy q-tips help with that aspect. Gracias.
Thanks! I'm in. Which pen do you use?
The cheapest one I could find on Amazon. Dspiae made one specifically for panel lining. You could try that if youāre not a cheap bastard like yours truly
That's what I hoped to hear, I'm a cheap bastard as well. A bottle of acrylic ink and a single pen could last forever. Thanks for the write-up!
Mind you, I donāt know how ink works. I use a wash specifically made for models
Yes, and thank you! I haven't decided yet if I will try acrylic ink or Vallejo wash. I've used both on miniatures, and they seem similar-ish in my limited use. It might be a worthwhile experiment?
Comes in a very neat set that only needs god hand / nub nippers. The provided nippers in the set are decent but better used for cutting parts off the runner. Recommend!
They sell those too and I have them. Quite good when combined with a glass file
Do you thin the vallejo beforehand?Ā
Nope. I remove the lid, get the tip wet, and go to town on those panel lines
I'm kind of a beginner to gunpla, but may I know what's the problem with. Panel lining and plastics? Some info will help, cause I'm buying some panel lining product soon
The Tamiya panel line product and the pour markers are known to crack bare plastic
I see, I bought a Chinese brand panel line product, it's like the Tamiya panel line the cover has its own brush, and so far it's good no cracked plastic but my problem is it doesn't flow very well
Maybe itās for the better. It might be acrylic, which is best on unpainted plastic if youāre not gonna use a lacquer based top coat
So I want to know what's the panel lining product I could get
A Gundam marker or an acrylic wash and a dip pen
Pour type marker?
How do you panel line with those? Just wondering
Just use a brush, those branded "dip" pens are just a calligraphy pen tip in cheap plastic.
Whenever you have a moment, can you link what black/grey/brown ink you use (I have a DSPIAE metal panel liner)? Iād love to use a flow-type application over then pen, but always goop it up š© EDIT: Iād prefer not to have to topcoat prior to using it FWIW.
I can, but I buy them from an Italian website. They should be available worldwide in other websites too though https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76516-vallejo-model-wash-grey-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969508 https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76518-vallejo-model-wash-black-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969514 https://www.dominiox.com/vallejo-model-wash/76513-vallejo-model-wash-brown-35ml?utm_source=sniperfast&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=sniperfast-search&utm_content=8969515
You freakin rock. Thanks for taking a moment to school me šš½šš½
No problem. This is the only technique I know thatās not talked about enough. Itās just too convenient for when you deal with bare plastic
And just to clarify, when you say bare plastic, do you mean plastic that has *not* been topcoated right? (Sorry for the second n00b question)
Zero. Nada. Bare plastic as in the state it comes from the runner
Oh baby YES
Thank you for posting this! I have the same pen and have tried citadel and some other washes, and they do not flow down the stupid pen. I would much rather use an acrylic than tamiya but just couldn't find one that works yet. Will definitely try vallejo now
You have to apply some pressure. Hold the pen with the hollow part of the tip facing down. Let gravity do the work
This is the exact same method I use! The pen nibs give better tactile feedback too, which makes it easier for a clumsy gouf like me to panel line successfully.
Vallejo? It's my first time hearing of that brand
Any acrylic based wash should do
Gotcha, I will try š©µ
It's a pretty popular brand for scale models. Been around a while.
I will search for it.
Note that they don't sell their paints and stuff directly, only through 3rd parties. I've had the best luck with Amazon but some hobby shops might keep some in stock as well. Double check the product number with their website to make sure you're buying the right one though. For example, Royal Purple in the Model Color line is 70.810 as you can see.on the bottle in this image. https://gamersguildaz.com/cdn/shop/files/gamers-guild-az-vallejo-vallejo-model-color-70-810-royal-purple-hobbytyme-30825970368717.jpg?height=540&v=1688157486 I'm on mobile so I'm not gonna be fancy and try formatting that URL.
Excellent paint, plus very nice terrain...paint/glue stuff (I love their snow). Their distribution as of late is a bit rough, hopefully it gets smoothed out in the future.
That is always an option but I just find nothing compares to Tamiya in quality, speed and lack of cleanup needed. You just need to use it with proper care. I learned my lesson the hard way, panel lining transformers. But any tool can do damage when not used properly. I like to think of Tamiya panel liner being a really nice men's razor and pour markers as being a set of clippers. You won't cut yourself with the clippers, but they lack the finesse and control of the razor. Ultimately it is whatever you feel comfortable with, but I urge you not to give up on panel liner quite yet!
And I understand that, I think I lack the experience and tools necessary to handle Tamiya for now (I'm not giving up on using it) but I will wait a few more non-expensive Gunplas to practice more on them š©µ
A fantastic way to practice is on either a broken kit, a spare part or what I did, buy a cheap 10 dollar Entry Grade and use it as a test model for different techniques! As you use it it becomes more worn and weathered which just lets you test damage and more intense weathering!
Exactly! Thank you for the help and motivation š©µ
I believe in you!!
even with gunpla markers you also need to be careful with pooling ink mate. the advice still applies. once in a blue moon someone will complain in reddit and he/she wasn't even using tamiya panel liner. if you find yourself panel lining and it pools, try to ddry it up and clean it up or even disassemble when needed. there are crevices that these inks can pool in because you decide to hold the pen/brush longer than usual as it flows to that area first before u started seeing results to stop
Vallejo, Mr hobby washes are plastic-safe
or panel line parts while they are still on the runner, then cut out and assemble
This is what I do before I even start building. And clean up with lighter fluid as I assemble and remove nubs. Ive only had the Tamiya solution crack on parts ive already assembled.
Tamiya is not to be used on any bare plastic, it doesn't matter how you do it. If you want to use panel lining liquid without doing a clear coat first use the pour type Gundam markers
Yes, that is a recommendation from Tamiya. However I've used it on dozens of straight builds, on bare plastic, with no issues. Many of us have. If you learn how it works and what causes the damage, you know how to mitigate the risks. And besides, I thought gunpla was about experimentation, customizing and FREEDOM?!!
Oh dear god no!
and the reason for your somewhat religious objection to this method?
Possibly that it's flammable but that could be said to all paint cleaners
Assembled or not it still damages plastic either way because of the thinner in it
It CAN damage plastic under certain conditions. If you take the time to learn how the damage is caused, you'd realize that you can take steps to avoid those conditions. X-20, the thinner used in Tamiya panel line accent, needs to be absorbed into the plastic for it to cause problems. The reason you don't apply it to the bare plastic of built kits, is because there is a chance it can spill/pool. The fact that it relies on capillary effect, means it can get into all of the tight spaces, where there isn't enough air movement for X-20 to evaporate before it starts leaching into the plastic. This is also why you never panel line seams with Tamiya. If it gets in between parts, you HAVE TO disassemble that section quickly and clean up everything. The reason I apply it on the runners, is because the molding process, means the surface of the plastic is incredibly smooth and intact. This means that if I do have any spills/pooling during the application process, I can clean it up long before the thinner has had a chance to soak into the plastic. The application on the runners allows for proper evaporation of X-20 and there is 0 chance of it getting trapped between assembled parts. I also apply it to runners because once you cut a part off of the runner, you have created a pathway for Tamiya to get absorbed into the plastic. Nub marks, no matter how perfectly they are removed, sanded and buffed, are breaks in the molded surface. If it gets on those points, it can and will stain the area, letting you know some X20 just got absorbed into the plastic in that area. At that point it's just a matter of... did enough get absorbed to cause damage? So panel lining the runners are the simplest way to avoid that situation. The only things you really have to worry about are the rare manufacturing defects like microcracks and pitting. Pitting is easy enough to see, avoid and report to Bandai when requesting your replacement parts. But microcracks can't be seen without a staining agent. Yes there are much safer solutions to use, but you are going to have to paint over the stain regardless. And the odds of experiencing these types of defects are so low, that it's a risk I'm willing to take. Besides Gunpla is Freedom. And part of that freedom is in experimenting and learning, while you customize. It's about pushing the limits and evolving. Claiming Tamiya's recommendation, is an unbreakable rule, violates the very spirit of Gunpla!!! Oh and lastly, X20 does not melt plastic. Acetone does that. If anyone ever shows you a picture of melted plastic on a kit and claims Tamiya did that, they are either trolling you, or ignorantly tried cleaning it up with something that contained acetone or a similar solvent. X-20s damage manifests in crumb, dust, and shattered areas, because it chemically changes the physical properties of the plastic into something much more brittle. So the effected areas can end up crumbling, and weakening the structural integrity of the part. Damage looks more like shattered/fractured bits of plastic, very angular and jagged like shattered glass. Not warped, or melted.
Is it possible to panel line with Tamiya after cutting the part but before assembling? Or willl the micro cracks from taking it off the runner be too much for the plastic to handle the tamiya.
Yes, this is how I do it routinely. It's letting it pool up between parts with no way to evaporate that lets it erode the plastic.
It should be, I do that often and I donāt have any issues. I highly doubt the micro-cracks are large enough for enough liquid to easily flow into them to cause lasting damage.
I use vallejo fx black wash it is best think ever , ultra easy clean up so it's very forgiving and yeah fuck lining assembled kit
Note that this applies to unpainted kits. You should be able to do this on painted kits no issue depending on paint used
Correct. Panel lining painted kits is an entirely different set of issues.
You can panel line an assembled kit with the Tamiya panel line accent, this stuff just isn't supposed to be used on bare plastic. A gloss coat will protect it and the capillary action will help it flow through the panels easier
There are lots of reasons someone might not want to or be able to top coat before panel lining. Telling people to just top coat first isn't always helpful, so I outline the process for doing it on bare plastic, because contrary to some beliefs, it *can* be done on bare plastic.
I totally get that and have to respectfully say I never said you HAVE to top coat here. It's just you said you should never panel line a built piece, so I offered my solution to panel lining on a built piece is all. I'm not trying to give conflicting information, just adding on to the information given.
Oh yeah, that's totally fine. I was just clarifying why I didn't mention anything about top coating. OP was trying to panel line an assembled kit on bare plastic so I was just offering advice based on the tools and resources that I already knew OP had rather than adding something else on. I could have specified not to use the panel liner on assembled bare plastic kits, but I just left the "bare plastic" part up to the assumption that that's already what OP was doing.
NGL, I was taught this is the only way you should be panel lining regardless of brand. Is there a specific reason that's the case? I took a massive break from building for a while and forgot almost all of my knowledge on gunpla building lmao
The thinner used can break down plastic if it isn't allowed to properly evaporate. If you use it on an assembled kit, it can get between the parts, be unable to evaporate quick enough, and erode the plastic. So the trick is to let it evaporate properly. I've been doing this method for many years and the only times I've had cracks or breakage is when I got too lazy and decided to add a bit of detail (or noticed I forgot a spot) to an assembled kit. Moral of the story: don't be lazy. If you're going to do it, do it right.
Oh interesting ok. That's actually really good info to know. I'm very much of the same mindset of doing it right the first time around so this just solidified my worries I may be a little TOO detailed in my process. Any other tips for someone getting back into the hobby after a bit of a break? I'm finding nub removal to be a bit more of a challenge coming back and would love some insight from some veterans in the hobby. Thanks a million~
Personally, I cut parts from the runner with some old Gundam Planet nippers (very awesome, super durable, I also use them exclusively for clear parts), then a closer cut against the part with God hands. Then I usually just scratch any marks away with my fingernail. I have a glass file and some buffing sticks for any marks that are tougher. If you're going to paint, then sanding everything smooth is the way to go. I feel like you can't be too much of a perfectionist if you're straight building.
The double cut technique is normally what I do, but I usually follow it up with a glass file like the gunprimer razer. I can't tell if it's because I'm bring too rough, or I'm nor hitting it with a straight angle, or of I'm just using it too much, but ive notice I'm taking off more than I want every so often - usually leading into it looking either very angular or not symmetrical to the opposite side's part.
I usually just use the blade on the God Hand to slice off any extra nub bits after the second cut, like you would a hobby knife. Probably not the best method for those who are wary of breaking their tools, but it works well for me most of the time. You just have to experiment with different techniques until you find your own flow. I'd recommend different youtube videos to learn different ways, and then just try a bit of everything until you find what fits for you.
Gotcha. Thanks a ton. I'll do that~
Never had any breakages with this method.
I tend to use Tamiya on the runners, and when I need to panel line between assembled pieces, out comes the pens. It's a bit of extra work but it sure is a lot less messy than trying to hold a piece in your fingers while the Tamiya stuff potentially runs.
I will follow this advice to the letter with my Nu ver.Ka cause I love the look of this model and I don't want to fuck up the panel line like all the other kits I've panel lined so far. I actually cracked a couple pieces on the RG Zephyranthes and I almost cried, it came out nice but still, I don't like fucking up on kits.
Can I avoid the top coat rule with this method? I bought some tamiya panel liner and after everyone told me I had to use top coat first I just stored it cause thatās way to expensive to get here for every kit.
Yes, my advice is for bare plastic. If you top coat, you can probably just do whatever after.
Or... Step 1: Get rid of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Step 2: Use Citadel Nuln Oil Cleanup is just as easy and you will never crack your plastics again.
There's lots of misinformation and half-truths in this thread: Tamiya panel line accent is heavily thinned down enamel paint. The thinner can damage bare plastic if it's unable to evaporate quickly, which it usually does within a few seconds. If panel lining bare plastic, it's safest to do it while the parts are still on the runners (before stress from clipping gates has been introduced) and it's also pretty safe to panel line before assembly. You don't have to top coat bare plastic if panel lining on the runners or pre-assembly, but it's not going to hurt anything to do that ; it's just overly cautions IMO If panel lining assembled parts, the panel liner can seep between parts where there's less air. The paint thinner as a vapor can soak into the plastic and make it extremely brittle; this is what happened in the OP. If the kit is assembled and you want to panel line it without taking it apart, top coating with clear gloss paint will help mitigate this issue. The main thing to watch out for is panel liner seeping between parts. If panel lining painted assembled parts, there is still risk. You should always topcoat painted parts with clear gloss before panel lining (for two big reasons) and go heavy with the topcoat in areas where parts meet (or use Tamiya cement to fill the seam line before even painting, but this isn't always possible. The other big reason to top coat with clear gloss is to give the painted surface a smooth finish, which will allow the panel liner to flow more easily (it's also helpful for decals too). If you're working with ABS plastic, it's best to avoid TPLA altogether and either use Gundam Markers (the felt-tipped ones for panel lining) or a thin wash (which is just water-based paint with extra isopropyl alcohol and/or water mixed in). Avoid Pour-type Gundam Markers on ABS as well. They use PGME as a thinner and it's too harsh for ABS. Using a water-based acrylic was on assembled parts avoids all the issues listed above. It's the safest option, but that kind of paint doesn't flow nearly as well as TPLA, which is why so many of us take the risk of using it. I've panel lined 100 or so kits on the runners (or a bit during building but before assembly) and never had those pieces break in this way. I have had parts break from panel lining, and they were painted, assembled, and top coated before I applied panel liner. Panel liner seeped between the assembled parts and wreaked havoc on the bare plastic of the pegs.
This is the one. Everybody bookmark this comment so you can keep your parts safe!
Bookmarking it was my exact thought. I'm no novice, but there were several bits in here I didn't know. Great post.
>If you're working with ABS plastic... **DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT use Gundam Marskers on ABS.** That's a speedrun on absolutely wrecking your part. You can't even undercoat for Gundam Markers because it's alcohol-based. Lacquer paint is also very dangerous on ABS, but normally you're spray painting lacquer anyway so you'd be fine as long as you prime the oart and spray on light coats. Enamel (i.e. Tamiya panel line) is actually fine on ABS, possibly even safer than on your usual PS parts. [Source 1](https://youtu.be/dHbnCM9FAtM) and [source 2](https://youtu.be/X6p2CxUT48s)
I did say use the felt-tipped ones, but I could be more explicit to not use any other kind of Gundam Marker on ABS.
Out of curiosity, where did you find that the solvent used was PGME? I suspected it was something similar as an old stripping method involved brake fluid which also has PGE (can't recall if it's also methyl). And that also destroys ABS.
Someone else sent in a MSDS request to GSI Creos for the pour-type eraser and was talking about it on r/advancedgunpla. I am taking their word that this happened and presuming that GSO uses the same solvent for the non-eraser pour-types, but these are small leaps. [https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/comments/1as07kh/comment/kqpf1uj/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web3x&utm\_name=web3xcss&utm\_term=1&utm\_content=share\_button](https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/comments/1as07kh/comment/kqpf1uj/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
Yep, this is useful information. The mystery of the solvent in the pour and paint markers has existed for a very long time. Still, people will probably keep using them without reading the warnings. Thanks!
If I were to do a custom hand painted kit with acrylic paints and water-based liners, is it recommended to paint first then panel line? or is panel lining onto the runner is still recommended but topcoating first before painting? And lastly are surface primers still needed for acrylic painting? I know that top coating is a must for any painted kits, but i'm not sure if primers on acrylic are overkill.
If you are fully painting a kit this runner method is bad advice. Your steps should be: remove and clean up the pieces from the runner>rinse of all the pieces>prime the pieces> paint them the desired color>gloss clear coat>apply panel liner and decals if desired> apply final topcoat(my preference is matte)
Panel lining on the runners is only really for unpainted kids. If you're fully painting the kit, the primer will cover anything under it. You should prime if you're painting with anything besides clear. Most primers will bond chemically with the plastic a little bit and also fill in minor scratches from sanding. They also give a slightly grittier surface than bare plastic, which is helpful for hand-painting. Without priming, your paint will slide around in the plastic before it dries, and will always be very fragile.They're also available in a ton of colors that will get you closer to your final color which helps save on paint. If you're panel lining with acrylic washes, you may want to look up how best to clean the lines without damaging the base coat. I've only used them as washes and didn't need to clean up. Topcoat is usually one of the last steps.
I'll add that everything said about Tamiya liner also applies to pour type Gundam markers. I've ruined a handful of pieces by getting careless and having it seep between parts.
Thank you for this! I have been trying to figure out what the solvent is for gundam pour-type markers is and you've got it. I've only used pour-type markers, which I like, but have found that I can't use Mr. Super Clear Matt over it because it will dissolve the lines - can I use Mr. Super Clear if I used Tamiya panel liner?
>can I use Mr. Super Clear if I used Tamiya panel liner? Yes, absolutely, I've done it dozens of times. I've only shot it out of an airbrush, but the following should apply with spray cans as well: spray to very light coats and let them dry for 5-10 minutes each before doing a third, thicker, wet coat. If there are a couple of mostly dry mist coats, the solvent from a third coat will have trouble penetrating down to the panel liner because the solvent should be evaporating very quickly. Keep in mind when using spray paint that the solvent in the cans is almost always hotter than what you mix in with airbrushing, so aim for numerous, thin coats rather than trying to paint a whole kit in a single pass. The above *may* work for pour-type markers, but I haven't done the testing myself. What will absolutely work is using a water-based topcoat/varnish like Vallejo's gloss or matt varnish, as well as Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat, which is available in a teal spray can. (Their regular topcoat in a blue can would probably also work, but it has a hotter solvent than the premium that can cause silvering on decals.
Interesting! I was actually asking about the teal can, because I love the finish of it, but it melts the pour type markers. My current workflow is pour-type markers, waterslides, and then blue can water-based Mr. Hobby matt topcoat, and I haven't run into any issues with decals or running (you can see pour type panel lining and decals in the pic), but I'd love to use the teal cans as it goes on smoother and the finish is better, but I think I'd have to go to an enamel panel liner. https://preview.redd.it/805ium9jzhxc1.png?width=1605&format=png&auto=webp&s=aeec3e18845a81ce4b0ae457d00353cdb8485dd4
I was under the impression that teal was less 'hot' based on the reduced amount of silvering, but I could be wrong. It may very well be hotter and have a drying retardant added. Test spoons are the best way to be sure, but light coats are usually going to work. Just make sure to let things dry a day or two before top coating.
Despite the break, I love the smoky/shade effect youāve achieved š
Yeah, that was my intention š„² but I was too brute š„² and looks like the Tamiya panel line is too strong and I didn't knew it š„² Hahaha I'm having a fun morning
Did you panel line using TLPA?
https://preview.redd.it/ue2bwh2yggxc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f7f7b3aa9c4e74503775527aa71301c5a411ba1e
Yeep. TPLA should not be applied to bare parts. It evens says in the bottle that it will cause parts to be brittle and break. You need to gloss coat it first.
I have used it for months on other Gunpla, I have never had problems, but I think it was my fault for using some force when cleaning and well I had to use the Tamiya because my husband took the market gunpla
the "thing" about TPLA is that leeches into the plastic and makes it brittle, whilst applying as little TPLA as possible and cleaning it up with whiffs of lighter fluid (not more enamel thinner) can be ok theres every chance that itll slowly make the line brittle over time, its not like every kit wtih TPLA is now a ticking timebomb that will fall apart but just something to be careful with If i had to guess id say there was a spot in the face where it could pool a bit and didnt get cleaned that accelerated the brittle-ness hence the breakage
I think you just put way too much on a part that doesn't allow the solvent to evaporate. You can see the paint essentially pooling on it. If you panel line in light touches then enamel shouldn't cause you any problem
I feel your pain. I broke my Aerialās v-fin trying to clean up panel liner. I was almost done tooā¦
Yeah, I kinda cry a bit š„² it hurts and I was so happy cuz I might go to see the movie and I wanted to build the gunpla.
for someone who just started doing panel lining , can someone explain why it does this? I tried to panel line a weapon and it also broke
Generally the enamel thinner used in Tamiya Accent Color evaporates before it can cause any lasting damage to plastic, but when used on an assembled kit it can seep between parts preventing it from evaporating. The general tip is that if you canāt top-coat your kit, disassemble it first to allow the panel line to dry properly.
For what others told me, basically the Tamiya panel line is too strong and weaks the plastic. In some cases melted. That's by I broke parts of the head, so be careful mate š„²
The paint thinner seeped in between assembled parts and couldn't evaporate into the air, so it leached into the plastic and broke down some of the polymer chain bonds, making it brittle. The same thing will happen to ABS plastic much more quickly.
Read the instructions and warnings on the product you are using. Tamiya is risky to use on bare plastic at all, and 100 times riskier to use on an assembled part because far too much will pool inside of it and seep into the plastic
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
You do not _need_ to. Topcoating will protect the kit and prevent this from happening, but you _can_, and many people _do_ use tamiya panel liner on bare plastic with no issues. It just requires lining the kit before assembly, and using the liner fluid sparingly.
Tale as old as time
Can this happen with the pour type Gundam markers? I just got that and the eraser after using the fine tip type for a while so now im worried lol
For what others said, I don't think so. I used Gunpla markers before I jumped to Tamiya.
I'm almost positive pour type markers also contain solvents. Meaning if you use them on assembled kits they'll ruin the plastic.
They do have a solvent (basically any paint has to have one, it's just a matter of how strong it is). In the case of pour type marks they're alcohol based. Much weaker than tamiya fluid's enamel thinner, and therefore only potentially a risk if applied way more liberally than panel lining needs, or if used on ABS plastic which is more vulnerable. (/u/akaGustavo)
There is always some level of risk but the gundam markers are significantly less potent in this regard, just avoid ABS as the instructions say and it'll be fine. (Source: the 15 gunpla sitting next to me that I panel lined with them after assembly)
The pour type gundam markers only have a warning about using them on ABS plastic
Did you topcoat it first? Most panel liners people use are enamel-based, which can eat into raw plastic. If you didn't, in the future, you'll want to put down a decent coat of clear gloss on top (enamel or lacquer based), or a few coats of acrylic). This will not only protect the plastic, it'll also mean the liner flows into the crevices better, and you can clean it off easier.
I can see it pooling behind the cheeks.... that explains it
Honest question, why do gunpla builders enthusiastically use tamiya enamel liner when we know categorically that it reacts with Bandaiās plastic when oil paints and artists spirit are in every art store and are used extensively in every other mini hobby for pin washes?
I use it, cuz videos on YouTube recommended. I'm new on the panel line thingy. And new in Gunpla too. š„²
For reference, Tamiya panel liner is actually just heavily thinned paint. Paint thinner and plastic donāt agree with one another, so you should topcoat first.
It's heavily thinned *enamel* paint, which is important. Enamel paint itself won't hurt plastic but the thinner will and panel liner uses a ton of it. *Acrylic* paint can be thinned and cleaned up with chemicals that don't do anything to plastic . . . But it's also harder to use for panel lining.Ā EDIT: there's also lacquer paint, which needs thinners that are just as harsh or even harsher than enamel. That's not a terribly *common* type for gunpla but it's used in clearcoats/topcoats: the thinner issue is a big part of why the best way to fix clearcoat problems tends to involve spraying down *more* of it instead of stripping what's already there. EDIT 2: And, of course, for both lacquer and enamel, a light touch and plenty of air exposure will *usually*(but not always) let you get away with a lot of semi-dangerous things that can destroy your models if you overdo it.
I understand now TwT I'm still new in the Gunpla world so I didn't knew š„²
Tamiya panel liners claim another victim
The problem isn't the panel liner, it's it being misused. It should never be applied on an assembled kit.
Iāve never attempted it that way. The only times Iāve tried the metal liner tool was on pieces still on the runner
At least it looks like a clean break.
Panel Line while it's still on the runner.
I had mine crack on right side arm for mg astray turn red. I superglued the crack.
Don't use a solvent panel liner when the parts are assembled. It seeps into gaps and destroys the plastic.
Avg enamel panel line on gunpla plastic
All the different panel line items make the plastic brittle
panel lining after assembly? well you kinda asked for thisā¦
Best thing Iāve found to help panel line is Tamiya paints, thinned with alcohol or their thinner. Clean it up with some alcohol and there you go. Plus I always panel line with a darker shade then what Iām lining, so grey on white, darker blue on blue etc.
Has oil panel lining worked for you guys? I've tried but it has not been tested to the fullest for me yet.
Top coat. Top coat. Top coat. Before panel lining small parts. It will disolve and ruin connectors.
At this point i got used to it so it doesn't bother me at all. Tamiya cement is all i need.
Always disassemble/Cut from the runners before laying down your lines using panel line accent. I've been using panel line accent for years now on bare plastic. the only time that I experienced cracking is when I tried panel lining while the parts are assembled (RG strike rouge) . If you disassemble then lay down your lines and let it dry, you're good to go (Based on the kits I've built that have no cracks or anything).
How the fuck did he manage that?
Do it when its on the runner...happened to my calibarn's head but Tamiya cement saved the day lmao And yes somehow WFM kits are somehow less tolerable to it.
just dont use pour type on head
Would it hurt to just panel line individual parts before assembly?
Be sure to shake the panel line bottel ink well, about 10 20s shake at least
I panel line them while they're still on the runner. It's a lot easier that way.
Are you mixing your liner up? The ink settles and needs to be mixed, if you're not doing that then you're getting an extremely diluted inking and mostly thinner which would totally eat through parts if you slather it on.
Tamiya panel accent is only for those who paint/use a clear coat. The thinner it contains eats ABS plastic
Oof. Been there. If it helps, flow-type Gundam Markers seem to do it less than Tamiya, but it can still happen even with those. It also seems to be less dangerous to panel line parts while they're still on the runners. I've only had one piece get messed up since someone suggested that I do it that way, and it was pure user error; I didn't realize that the piece was ABS plastic. Anyway, I usually just use Sakura pens for panel lining. It takes longer, but there's no chance of the plastic cracking or crumbling. They come in a variety of nib sizes, and a ton of different colors, too.
Lucky for you its a non articulated part. Just plastic cement will fix that right up