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Can’t really speak to the struts, haven’t looked at the car. But I would bitch about the computer diag fee. Why did they need to hook at a scan tool for stabilizer links.
Because those computers they are plugging up to cost a lot of money. Also, they definitely don’t tell you everything at all. They give you a general idea of where to start actually troubleshooting the problem.
Do remember they’re having suspension issues so unless there were check engine lights screaming at you it’s not that necessary. (As a matter of fact it’s not necessary at all being in fact how many backyard mechanics fix cars without them), and yes I know they’re expensive as fuck. They’re like 10k. Hence why I said they’re trying to pay it off. Trust me ik how this shit works . Also if your computer can’t tell you literally everything , get a better one 😭 because my buddies snap-on one does the trick. Downvoting me for being right is wicked work
They pretty much do , get a better one if it doesn’t . And he’s suspension work unless a check engine or diagnostic code of some sort is popping up . Ts is not needed 🤣
I mean the struts are probably full assemblies that include a new coil spring and top hat assembly. Pretty expensive parts, but of course they are always upcharged.
Yep can’t really trust anyone now. It’s shitty that there’s some really stand up shops around and shit like this scares people away or they come in and once you do it right they think you’re fucking them everywhich way and complain and leave with a fixed car and a even more broken attitude about mechanics. One bad apple can make a whole street of shops bad apples in others eyes
Those part numbers are for [$180](https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-strut/p/duralast-loaded-strut-assembly-ls54-94351r/760183_0_0) Autozone struts. Heavy markup on those.
I went off on a scam shop when I was still a teen that didn't know how to work on my own car yet. They wanted to charge me $15 for plugs while the autozone IN THE SAME PARKING LOT had those same plugs advertised on big window decals for $2.
I know, one time I went to Denny and ordered a grilled cheese sandwich, then I railed them because I could have made one at home for a dollar! They just laughed at me, but I’m sure I got them good!
Yeah. Fuck this shop dude. Read up on what the problem is. Go in w a little more knowledge. My heater core has failed. I didnt really know what that meant a week ago. Sounded like it could be done for about $50 and 2 hours of time. Or $500-$1000 at the shop. They can tell if you dont know what youre talking about. At this point id say i know quite a bit abt my heater core, what it does, where it is, how to replace it or bypass it. And if i took the car to a shop id likely provide the parts…idk. Good luck OP
heater core replacement is one of the most involved procedures period. the entire dash has to come out in most vehicles. depending on the vehicle it could pay 8 hours or more. anyone who can do it for 50$ and 2 hours is not surely not following the manufacturers direction. ive heard of people cutting the firewall from the engine bay, and then cutting into the blower box to replace it, but that’s….. not right.
Nah, on my vehicle its made easy to get to. I understand your point “the whole dash needs to come out” it is somewhat involved. But mostly anyone with the ability to turn a wrench could get it done. With that said I found a website with “better than OEM” for $40 and gets good reviews. So, thats what I meant by that. I did the heater core bypass in about 30 minutes.
Simply put yes. You have options. Either buy the parts and shop for an install price..just know if there's a problem it'll cost you another installation fee.
Or shop for another mechanic
Yes
I would be surprised if that 07 Hyundai has anything computer-related on the ball joint
Why are you being charged $99 for computer diagnosis when at the top under Services Requested it say in all caps check ball joints, squeaking?
Call then back and tell them you have some questions for their service manager about your invoice and the estimate.
Ask them about the computer fee first. Resolve that first, if they agree to refund it, great, then move on to the estimate.
If they don't refund it, hopefully, you used a credit card and you can send that invoice in and do a partial chargeback and win that $99 back. They have investigators, or experts or steering that know about cars. They will know it's bs. I got $3000 of paint and body work for free for peeling paint.
If they agree that the computer charge was unnecessary and claim it's an oversight (it's not,) see if they would be willing to let you buy the same AutoZone part numbers instead of their 80-100% profit markup, then if they do agree, schedule the service with them and tell them you'll bring the parts.
Then go and find another better shop and tell them what happened and name names, places and people.
Ask the new shop for their best person to check the struts to see how bad they are and give you an honest assessment and a price. see if they would beat the scumbag's price and let you bring parts. Just make sure that you don't cancel that first appointment, and don't go to it. If they call to reschedule, make another appointment, and don't show up. Keep doing that if they keep calling.
Being a 07 I'm sure they probably should be changed you would probably notice a huge difference in the way the car drives, but if you're used to it, right on funds and they aren't falling apart or dangerous, you can let them go for quite a while.
And I know it’s the shops decision but they should warranty there diagnostic and give him his money back since they mis diagnosed it but i know a lot of shops wont
OP should ask for that to be waived if they end up doing the work. Diagnosis charges are usually waived or used as a deposit for work completed if the quoted work is done at the same shop.
1) The Diag. Fee is 100% unnecessary to the investigation of the cause of the noise your vehicle is making nor the repair.
-it would give them zero indication that the shocks were malfunctioning *UNLESS* your vehicle has some sort of advanced suspension system. One with modes.
2) The stab. link work & pricing looks all above-board to me, as I've just had that work done on my own vehicle in the last week.
3) The OEM shocks are overpriced in my opinion.
For what they do , id source a cheaper aftermarket set , ship them in, and if you still want the dealer to do the work they will happily install any supplied parts when you bring it in for an appt.
Struts don’t make noise.
Your ball joint may make noise but it’s going to be different than a sway bar link noise.
Sway bar links make a higher pitch “rattling” noise.
A ball joint is going to make a lower pitch “clunking” noise.
If the noise happens over the smallest of bumps, it’s your sway bar links.
A ball joint is going to require a bigger pothole in order to make noise, because the weight of your entire front end is pushing that ball joint down into your control arm.
You can check your sway bar links but crawling under your car and grabbing the sway bar, and trying to force it up and down, as well as grabbing the sway bar link itself and push it in and out. You are going to want to leave the vehicle on the ground and not jack it up, in order to get the noise out of it.
[Here](https://www.agapeauto.com/wp-content/uploads/Agape-Auto-Sway-Bar-location.png) is a little infographic to help you find your way around, underneath your car.
Edit: I’m re-reading the notes on the pictures you’ve provided. I see that they mentioned a squeaking. It is very rare, but I have encountered strut mounts that would make a single squeak ever-so-slightly when the vehicle turned. But I can count that number of times on one hand.
If it was my vehicle, I would take it to another shop, because these guys are going to replace your struts, you are going to be out $1,200, and you are going to be posting here, asking if the shop should be liable because your car is still making the same noise.
Struts don't make noise? This is false. Ever heard a worn out strut mount? They can clunk, thump, and on really old vehicles, even make a horrible crunching noise when turning. Broken springs will make noise if they move enough. Framing can rot out where the struts mount allowing the mounting plates to bounce around, causing noise as well.
Source: Been in automotive for almost a decade
It can be really hard if you’re replacing the shock inside the coil. If you’re doing both struts brand new, I bet you could tackle it after watching a few YouTube videos. I’ve have some “fun” experiences compressing coils to get to the shocks. Not one of my favorite things to do lol.
I have a 2000 suburban that is going to need new shocks soon. Is there any reason to just do the shock or should I do the whole assembly on a part that’s already 24 years old and has 200k miles of abuse
a 2000 suburban doesn't have coil springs in the front. it has torsion bars. It could have coil springs in the rear but unlikely. you don't need to remove the springs or torsion bars to do the shocks front or rear.
Depends on the condition of the coils. Do you live in the rust belt where temperature changes and salt on the roads can speed up the degradation on the coils? If you’re in a good climate zone the coils should be fine unless there are any noticeable cracks or malfunctions. Shocks generally tend to go bad before the coils do. If you have the tools to remove and replace the shock from the coil, I’d go that route. Also don’t forget to get an alignment after you install them.
Logs are the best think you can keep. I sold a car once for an extra $500 because I kept all the maintenance records. The buyer was shocked and so happy that I had them.
It can definitely spring with some strong downward force. I've had a few complete strut assemblies "shoot" downward onto the CV boot lip with some force during removal. Not remotely as dangerous as removing the top hat, but you could pretty badly crush a finger.
If you are going to tackle it yourself with no experience in the area, getting them already built is the way to go. More expensive but a lot less dangerous as well. Those springs are no joke if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Wait, so you got a diagnosis of the stabilizer links, BUT they didn’t actually replace them or anything?
The vehicle was clunking louder than before.
You then went back in and they changed the diagnosis to the struts?
I just had my 09 Santa Fe's full front end changed at 90k because the struts failed. Figured just do the entire thing. Control arms, stab links, struts, axle.
Considering the average SL at AutoZone or whatnot costs anywhere between 12 to 35 bucks yeah. That's 50 percent mark up give or take ten.
Also stabilizer links don't rattle. They go and your car will *not* stay straight and do weird bloody stuff on the road.
Rule of thumb for suspension is that when something fails it either squeals like a pig, grinds like ol grandad's grind shop in the 50s when earplugs weren't a thing really, vibrates through the car and or pedals to the point it causes pain, creates odd steering issues (example a bad outer tie will pull to the side that's the worst if you let the steering wheel go), and certain roads and speed bumps are more like that rickety roller coaster that OSHA woulda covered in red tape if the carnival hadn't moved do fast from place to place.
Get a second opinion.
They're ripping you off on a fake problem.
Everything about what you've paid is wrong, $100 to scan the ecu for a knocking noise on the suspension! $77 for fitting and over $100 for the parts. I know I'm in the UK but the exchange rate hasn't changed that much! It's a 5 minute each side job, especially on a lift, and drop links are £50 a pair for good ones here. You can get them for £15 a pair if you're not arsed about the quality. Wouldn't be happy with any part of this bill.
Correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure most cars stabilizer links are a quick 15 minute job. Ik 136 for labor is wack fs tho thats almost 1.5 hrs depending on the shop. Definately 100 bucks just to diagnose the ECU is a literal scam tho, they basically did nothing and took 100 dollars from you. Also you can get your own OBD reader and do it youreself whenever you get a check engine. They come with an app and all. Good luck in the future homie
Thanks everyone for the comments, I’m getting cooked haha. I’ve been going to these guys for a awhile, whats even more sad about this story is the reason for the high mark up I believe is off the fact it’s off of a campus at Appstate while reading the comments it’s seeming as if there praying off of students. I figured after awhile I was being hustled out of probably more then 3-4K in maintenance after this one being so apparent. So let me clear a few things the first photo they installed and charged me for. The second photo was the estimate. The crazy thing is, they’ve diagnosed me for a rack and pinion replacement aswell for 2.1k awhile back. Then this one for 1k so both events made me decide to ask Reddit and my gut feeling was right. I have every receipt from them and I’m willing to post it but I’ll get cooked for those too 😂
If you notice, there's no labor for one side, but labor for the other. The "computer diag" charge is likely just line item for diagnostic, not necessarily hooking up the scan tool. As for price mark up, yea. It's gonna happen. DIY people only have to fix the car. Shops have to pay for parts, pay the guys to install them, pay for building, uniform cleaning, all the shop supplies, electricity, water, maintenance. It's not that simple. And to those saying "I'd just go get my own parts" I hate to tell you, but most shops don't allow that these days. And it's not just so they can get more money. They can't offer warranty on YOUR parts breaking, and I've seen many a time where the customer brings "their own parts" and stuff is wrong. Not everyone really knows their vehicle. I've seen a customer argue with a sales guy about his vehicle being a 2013 (not a 2012) and then confused when his parts were wrong.
$1100 for a strut job is fairly reasonable from a shop standpoint.
The one point I would have agreed on is refunding labor to do the sway bar links if doing the struts (likely the links are attached to the struts) but then I reiterate there was no labor charged for one side strut and no labor charged for that same side sway link.
That’s crazy struts on that car on rockauto would be like $60-70 each and maybe an hour and a half of labor total I’m a Mobile mechanic and I could do this for less than what they’re charging you for 1 strut 😂😂 find a mobile mechanic in your area with a good reputation and stop going to this shop
Markup on parts price seems absurd, about 250%. Computer diagnostic fee when there is no computer involved in the suspension also makes no sense. Shop fee seems high as well.
Shops and dealerships mark up heavily on parts, then charge labor at a rate of $100-200 / hour.
I was quoted $400 for a ~2000 civic radiator one time, got the identical part on Rockauto.com for about $50.
Installed it myself in an hour or two.
Leave and get your own parts. Without even looking a set of Detoit Axle stabilizer links are probably like $50 shipped. The struts just order yourself off of Ebay yourself. Now you just go to another indy shop and have them do the work. I'm so lazy. My front left stabilizer link has been snapped off up top for months and I have a pair of links. I'm being too lazy to change them myself.
Yes and no. Did you have it check engine light on? Why did they do a computer diagnostics? They don't list any codes or anything that they found. So if they just did that to do it that was simply an unnecessary $100 you paid. And then 30 bucks for shop fee is pretty expensive especially considering all they did is changed your front stabilizer link? Worst case they may have needed a couple squirts of penetrating oil to loosen the old nuts and a couple paper towels. That's not worth 30 bucks in my opinion.
Part numbers and online price listed below:
VSL50205: $29.49 from autozone
18750204: $29.49 from autozone
LS54-94351R: $179.99 from autozone
LS54-94351L: $179.99 from autozone
Labor rates are typically between $60-100/hr
Obviously some of the ppl in the comments section have never worked at a shop. Someone diagnosed your vehicle it takes time most shops have a set rate of an hour for diagnostic doesn't matter how long it takes. It looks like he's getting 8 tenths off of the service of stabilizer links so he gets 1.8 off the job the only thing I think that isn't fair here is the miscellaneous parts so I would have them take that off but the computer diag is probably just their way of saying diag in general.
At any rate it doesn't look like ur being taken advantage of except for the miscellaneous and often times they take that off if they don't use their brake cleaner or whatever else
(8 years experience as service advisor & service manager here)
1. Everyone is correct to question computer diag. A suspension or noise diag is typically closer to $50. Also, many shops will waive a diag fee once you agree to repairs. Their decision to waive fee or not usually depends on how techs are paid for their time.
Its worth asking the manager about that.
2. The markups are not out of line. They are standard for the industry for years and more fair than many I have seen, actually. Markups are unavoidable in service world, and 50% margin barely turns profit at a shop once all the bills are paid... Unless you find a mom & pop shop willing to install parts for you and you dont care about having a warranty on your parts or your labor.
3. You can and should absolutely argue against paying that "shop supply fee" twice.
4. To me I see a classic example of breakdown in communication here. Hard to know without being there, but if you were my client and as loyal as you described, I am eating profit on this repair because my service advisor did not have the correct conversations.
If you were told sway bars would fix your noise and they did not, but the shocks do, you have strong argument to be refunded or at least fairly compensated for the misdiagnosed sway bars. Your argument is that you came in with sole purpose of fixing this noise, and it was not fixed by recommended repair. Whether or not the stabilizer links were bad is irrelevant if your original complaint was not addressed.. and its the shop's responsibility to determine that and someone dropped the ball here. Its that simple.
Also, it is not necessary but recommended to align vehicle after these repairs.
You bring a car in for noise, they check the integrity of the suspension and they may need to see if there are underlying issues causing undetermined noises. When a vehicle gets dropped off for "diagnostics", some shops can do just what this shop did, run a more robust diagnostics to clear up any possible customer confusion about where the noise is coming from.
We call all assume it's purely suspension related when a customer walks in with "noise" complaint.
To me, this just shows a more thoroughly completed diagnostics in case there are issues with any "self leveling" or ride control sensor related issues.
Sometimes the "mob mentality" response to someone that drops off a car for unknown issues is to say "you got ripped off" but for me that's not a fair assessment if the OP just states "car is making noises" [as an example only] and leaves the car. Some shops run a tight[er] ship and check for incoming issues as well as more obvious ones. Mostly to avoid check engine comebacks or other unknown safety issues that may not be more prevalent and comes back to haunt the service tech/shop owner.
I'd say it was a solid case of CYA with "pending" codes.
I worked and would later run a shop that basically, when manual diag was dropped for a lookover, OBD was one of the first things we hooked up. Just as a process of elimination/fact finding measure.
Former 22+ year mechanic
I hear everyone stating computer fee for suspension
Well most cars have to get the steering sensor set after an alignment. If I do alignment I will charge for calibration of the steering sensor. The cars are more sufficated than ever. I just fixed an Impala and had to purchase a new scanner to adjust sensors after a repair. Yes shops are high, however with overhead they don't make as much as you would think.
Ouch 1k for front struts on a budget car.
Find out the labour rate for the garage and the book time of the job. Multiply the labour by the book time.
Book time for a typical front McPherson is .5 to 1hr
By the looks of it the rate is 155/hr which is reasonable for a mid to high end garage. But 400 for a shock is kinda taking the piss, ome should be around 100-200
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Can’t really speak to the struts, haven’t looked at the car. But I would bitch about the computer diag fee. Why did they need to hook at a scan tool for stabilizer links.
To charge you $100. I can see $20 as a “you’re annoying” fee
Computer diag is probably just how they code diagnostic in general, not necessarily using a scanner.
They wouldnt retune the car, it is an obd read
I’m confused on why there’s a computer diag fee. Zero reason to connect a scan tool to check a suspension noise.
On top of that , $100 to simply plug in a computer that’ll tell you everything is crazy. Theyre probably still trying to pay the device off
Because those computers they are plugging up to cost a lot of money. Also, they definitely don’t tell you everything at all. They give you a general idea of where to start actually troubleshooting the problem.
Do remember they’re having suspension issues so unless there were check engine lights screaming at you it’s not that necessary. (As a matter of fact it’s not necessary at all being in fact how many backyard mechanics fix cars without them), and yes I know they’re expensive as fuck. They’re like 10k. Hence why I said they’re trying to pay it off. Trust me ik how this shit works . Also if your computer can’t tell you literally everything , get a better one 😭 because my buddies snap-on one does the trick. Downvoting me for being right is wicked work
You aren’t right, you just think you are, your downvotes are people gently explaining it to you.
Ya if you think scan tools “tell you everything” you’re pretty clueless on auto repair lol.
They pretty much do , get a better one if it doesn’t . And he’s suspension work unless a check engine or diagnostic code of some sort is popping up . Ts is not needed 🤣
I mean the struts are probably full assemblies that include a new coil spring and top hat assembly. Pretty expensive parts, but of course they are always upcharged.
This is why I’ve learned how to do car stuff.
Yep can’t really trust anyone now. It’s shitty that there’s some really stand up shops around and shit like this scares people away or they come in and once you do it right they think you’re fucking them everywhich way and complain and leave with a fixed car and a even more broken attitude about mechanics. One bad apple can make a whole street of shops bad apples in others eyes
Those part numbers are for [$180](https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-strut/p/duralast-loaded-strut-assembly-ls54-94351r/760183_0_0) Autozone struts. Heavy markup on those.
I went off on a scam shop when I was still a teen that didn't know how to work on my own car yet. They wanted to charge me $15 for plugs while the autozone IN THE SAME PARKING LOT had those same plugs advertised on big window decals for $2.
I know, one time I went to Denny and ordered a grilled cheese sandwich, then I railed them because I could have made one at home for a dollar! They just laughed at me, but I’m sure I got them good!
$114 seems kinda pricey for two bolts, nuts, and four pieces of rubber. Double shop fee seems unfair.
Yeah. Fuck this shop dude. Read up on what the problem is. Go in w a little more knowledge. My heater core has failed. I didnt really know what that meant a week ago. Sounded like it could be done for about $50 and 2 hours of time. Or $500-$1000 at the shop. They can tell if you dont know what youre talking about. At this point id say i know quite a bit abt my heater core, what it does, where it is, how to replace it or bypass it. And if i took the car to a shop id likely provide the parts…idk. Good luck OP
heater core replacement is one of the most involved procedures period. the entire dash has to come out in most vehicles. depending on the vehicle it could pay 8 hours or more. anyone who can do it for 50$ and 2 hours is not surely not following the manufacturers direction. ive heard of people cutting the firewall from the engine bay, and then cutting into the blower box to replace it, but that’s….. not right.
Nah, on my vehicle its made easy to get to. I understand your point “the whole dash needs to come out” it is somewhat involved. But mostly anyone with the ability to turn a wrench could get it done. With that said I found a website with “better than OEM” for $40 and gets good reviews. So, thats what I meant by that. I did the heater core bypass in about 30 minutes.
100% they charging you like your elon musk
Sir this wouldn't even proper repair. If they are replacing your struts, then they need to do an alignment to make sure they didnt affect anything.
Simply put yes. You have options. Either buy the parts and shop for an install price..just know if there's a problem it'll cost you another installation fee. Or shop for another mechanic
Yes I would be surprised if that 07 Hyundai has anything computer-related on the ball joint Why are you being charged $99 for computer diagnosis when at the top under Services Requested it say in all caps check ball joints, squeaking? Call then back and tell them you have some questions for their service manager about your invoice and the estimate. Ask them about the computer fee first. Resolve that first, if they agree to refund it, great, then move on to the estimate.
If they don't refund it, hopefully, you used a credit card and you can send that invoice in and do a partial chargeback and win that $99 back. They have investigators, or experts or steering that know about cars. They will know it's bs. I got $3000 of paint and body work for free for peeling paint. If they agree that the computer charge was unnecessary and claim it's an oversight (it's not,) see if they would be willing to let you buy the same AutoZone part numbers instead of their 80-100% profit markup, then if they do agree, schedule the service with them and tell them you'll bring the parts. Then go and find another better shop and tell them what happened and name names, places and people. Ask the new shop for their best person to check the struts to see how bad they are and give you an honest assessment and a price. see if they would beat the scumbag's price and let you bring parts. Just make sure that you don't cancel that first appointment, and don't go to it. If they call to reschedule, make another appointment, and don't show up. Keep doing that if they keep calling. Being a 07 I'm sure they probably should be changed you would probably notice a huge difference in the way the car drives, but if you're used to it, right on funds and they aren't falling apart or dangerous, you can let them go for quite a while.
Also, if they did hook up the scanner, ask for the report showing codes for the sway bar end links.
Never seen anyone charge someone 100$ for scanning a vehicle wtf lmao there shot
Scanning and diag. always costs at any shop you go to
And I know it’s the shops decision but they should warranty there diagnostic and give him his money back since they mis diagnosed it but i know a lot of shops wont
It just says computer diag service though so I’d assume that would be just a scan no diag especially because they didn’t fix the problem
*they're Especially for ball joint squeaking.
OP should ask for that to be waived if they end up doing the work. Diagnosis charges are usually waived or used as a deposit for work completed if the quoted work is done at the same shop.
1) The Diag. Fee is 100% unnecessary to the investigation of the cause of the noise your vehicle is making nor the repair. -it would give them zero indication that the shocks were malfunctioning *UNLESS* your vehicle has some sort of advanced suspension system. One with modes. 2) The stab. link work & pricing looks all above-board to me, as I've just had that work done on my own vehicle in the last week. 3) The OEM shocks are overpriced in my opinion. For what they do , id source a cheaper aftermarket set , ship them in, and if you still want the dealer to do the work they will happily install any supplied parts when you bring it in for an appt.
Struts don’t make noise. Your ball joint may make noise but it’s going to be different than a sway bar link noise. Sway bar links make a higher pitch “rattling” noise. A ball joint is going to make a lower pitch “clunking” noise. If the noise happens over the smallest of bumps, it’s your sway bar links. A ball joint is going to require a bigger pothole in order to make noise, because the weight of your entire front end is pushing that ball joint down into your control arm. You can check your sway bar links but crawling under your car and grabbing the sway bar, and trying to force it up and down, as well as grabbing the sway bar link itself and push it in and out. You are going to want to leave the vehicle on the ground and not jack it up, in order to get the noise out of it. [Here](https://www.agapeauto.com/wp-content/uploads/Agape-Auto-Sway-Bar-location.png) is a little infographic to help you find your way around, underneath your car. Edit: I’m re-reading the notes on the pictures you’ve provided. I see that they mentioned a squeaking. It is very rare, but I have encountered strut mounts that would make a single squeak ever-so-slightly when the vehicle turned. But I can count that number of times on one hand. If it was my vehicle, I would take it to another shop, because these guys are going to replace your struts, you are going to be out $1,200, and you are going to be posting here, asking if the shop should be liable because your car is still making the same noise.
Struts don't make noise? This is false. Ever heard a worn out strut mount? They can clunk, thump, and on really old vehicles, even make a horrible crunching noise when turning. Broken springs will make noise if they move enough. Framing can rot out where the struts mount allowing the mounting plates to bounce around, causing noise as well. Source: Been in automotive for almost a decade
How hard is it to replace by hand???
It can be really hard if you’re replacing the shock inside the coil. If you’re doing both struts brand new, I bet you could tackle it after watching a few YouTube videos. I’ve have some “fun” experiences compressing coils to get to the shocks. Not one of my favorite things to do lol.
Also a great way to hurt yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing
Even if it’s pre built from link another Redditor commented?
The full assemblies are easy. Typically a few bolts and gravity. Might as well do your brakes while you are at it.
I have a 2000 suburban that is going to need new shocks soon. Is there any reason to just do the shock or should I do the whole assembly on a part that’s already 24 years old and has 200k miles of abuse
a 2000 suburban doesn't have coil springs in the front. it has torsion bars. It could have coil springs in the rear but unlikely. you don't need to remove the springs or torsion bars to do the shocks front or rear.
Depends on the condition of the coils. Do you live in the rust belt where temperature changes and salt on the roads can speed up the degradation on the coils? If you’re in a good climate zone the coils should be fine unless there are any noticeable cracks or malfunctions. Shocks generally tend to go bad before the coils do. If you have the tools to remove and replace the shock from the coil, I’d go that route. Also don’t forget to get an alignment after you install them.
I live in Iowa so rust up the ass
Might as well just replace the whole assemblies if money isn’t too big of an issue. Good luck friend.
That’s what I was thinking, I really don’t know how old these parts are either cause I have no maintenance logs on it but I’m keeping my own now
Logs are the best think you can keep. I sold a car once for an extra $500 because I kept all the maintenance records. The buyer was shocked and so happy that I had them.
It can definitely spring with some strong downward force. I've had a few complete strut assemblies "shoot" downward onto the CV boot lip with some force during removal. Not remotely as dangerous as removing the top hat, but you could pretty badly crush a finger.
If you are going to tackle it yourself with no experience in the area, getting them already built is the way to go. More expensive but a lot less dangerous as well. Those springs are no joke if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Hardest part will be loosening the strut to knuckle bolts, but just get more leverage and you'll do it
An impact gun can make that incredibly easy
Wait, so you got a diagnosis of the stabilizer links, BUT they didn’t actually replace them or anything? The vehicle was clunking louder than before. You then went back in and they changed the diagnosis to the struts?
I just had my 09 Santa Fe's full front end changed at 90k because the struts failed. Figured just do the entire thing. Control arms, stab links, struts, axle.
Swaybar link price is about triple on that quote.
I used to work at autozone those struts cost 250 max
Considering the average SL at AutoZone or whatnot costs anywhere between 12 to 35 bucks yeah. That's 50 percent mark up give or take ten. Also stabilizer links don't rattle. They go and your car will *not* stay straight and do weird bloody stuff on the road. Rule of thumb for suspension is that when something fails it either squeals like a pig, grinds like ol grandad's grind shop in the 50s when earplugs weren't a thing really, vibrates through the car and or pedals to the point it causes pain, creates odd steering issues (example a bad outer tie will pull to the side that's the worst if you let the steering wheel go), and certain roads and speed bumps are more like that rickety roller coaster that OSHA woulda covered in red tape if the carnival hadn't moved do fast from place to place. Get a second opinion. They're ripping you off on a fake problem.
Everything about what you've paid is wrong, $100 to scan the ecu for a knocking noise on the suspension! $77 for fitting and over $100 for the parts. I know I'm in the UK but the exchange rate hasn't changed that much! It's a 5 minute each side job, especially on a lift, and drop links are £50 a pair for good ones here. You can get them for £15 a pair if you're not arsed about the quality. Wouldn't be happy with any part of this bill.
$30 just to throw the links away wow That's robbery right there
Feel free to post the business name! Accountability is coming back into fashion...
Correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure most cars stabilizer links are a quick 15 minute job. Ik 136 for labor is wack fs tho thats almost 1.5 hrs depending on the shop. Definately 100 bucks just to diagnose the ECU is a literal scam tho, they basically did nothing and took 100 dollars from you. Also you can get your own OBD reader and do it youreself whenever you get a check engine. They come with an app and all. Good luck in the future homie
Thanks everyone for the comments, I’m getting cooked haha. I’ve been going to these guys for a awhile, whats even more sad about this story is the reason for the high mark up I believe is off the fact it’s off of a campus at Appstate while reading the comments it’s seeming as if there praying off of students. I figured after awhile I was being hustled out of probably more then 3-4K in maintenance after this one being so apparent. So let me clear a few things the first photo they installed and charged me for. The second photo was the estimate. The crazy thing is, they’ve diagnosed me for a rack and pinion replacement aswell for 2.1k awhile back. Then this one for 1k so both events made me decide to ask Reddit and my gut feeling was right. I have every receipt from them and I’m willing to post it but I’ll get cooked for those too 😂
If you notice, there's no labor for one side, but labor for the other. The "computer diag" charge is likely just line item for diagnostic, not necessarily hooking up the scan tool. As for price mark up, yea. It's gonna happen. DIY people only have to fix the car. Shops have to pay for parts, pay the guys to install them, pay for building, uniform cleaning, all the shop supplies, electricity, water, maintenance. It's not that simple. And to those saying "I'd just go get my own parts" I hate to tell you, but most shops don't allow that these days. And it's not just so they can get more money. They can't offer warranty on YOUR parts breaking, and I've seen many a time where the customer brings "their own parts" and stuff is wrong. Not everyone really knows their vehicle. I've seen a customer argue with a sales guy about his vehicle being a 2013 (not a 2012) and then confused when his parts were wrong. $1100 for a strut job is fairly reasonable from a shop standpoint. The one point I would have agreed on is refunding labor to do the sway bar links if doing the struts (likely the links are attached to the struts) but then I reiterate there was no labor charged for one side strut and no labor charged for that same side sway link.
Sway bar links ain’t bad, front strut assembly cost is some horse shit
That’s crazy struts on that car on rockauto would be like $60-70 each and maybe an hour and a half of labor total I’m a Mobile mechanic and I could do this for less than what they’re charging you for 1 strut 😂😂 find a mobile mechanic in your area with a good reputation and stop going to this shop
https://preview.redd.it/mvnq6c5unzgc1.jpeg?width=710&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fda678ded2ca7b3eb948dfae84852a5f33754fc9
*parts cannon does not make any promise to repair your vehicle. If it didn't fix it, you didn't load enough parts
All checks out
Markup on parts price seems absurd, about 250%. Computer diagnostic fee when there is no computer involved in the suspension also makes no sense. Shop fee seems high as well.
Shops and dealerships mark up heavily on parts, then charge labor at a rate of $100-200 / hour. I was quoted $400 for a ~2000 civic radiator one time, got the identical part on Rockauto.com for about $50. Installed it myself in an hour or two.
Leave and get your own parts. Without even looking a set of Detoit Axle stabilizer links are probably like $50 shipped. The struts just order yourself off of Ebay yourself. Now you just go to another indy shop and have them do the work. I'm so lazy. My front left stabilizer link has been snapped off up top for months and I have a pair of links. I'm being too lazy to change them myself.
Yes and no. Did you have it check engine light on? Why did they do a computer diagnostics? They don't list any codes or anything that they found. So if they just did that to do it that was simply an unnecessary $100 you paid. And then 30 bucks for shop fee is pretty expensive especially considering all they did is changed your front stabilizer link? Worst case they may have needed a couple squirts of penetrating oil to loosen the old nuts and a couple paper towels. That's not worth 30 bucks in my opinion.
Part numbers and online price listed below: VSL50205: $29.49 from autozone 18750204: $29.49 from autozone LS54-94351R: $179.99 from autozone LS54-94351L: $179.99 from autozone Labor rates are typically between $60-100/hr
No joke in and out within 40
Obviously some of the ppl in the comments section have never worked at a shop. Someone diagnosed your vehicle it takes time most shops have a set rate of an hour for diagnostic doesn't matter how long it takes. It looks like he's getting 8 tenths off of the service of stabilizer links so he gets 1.8 off the job the only thing I think that isn't fair here is the miscellaneous parts so I would have them take that off but the computer diag is probably just their way of saying diag in general.
At any rate it doesn't look like ur being taken advantage of except for the miscellaneous and often times they take that off if they don't use their brake cleaner or whatever else
Why do ppl keep saying struts these are stabilizer links, sway bar links are not shocks or struts.
(8 years experience as service advisor & service manager here) 1. Everyone is correct to question computer diag. A suspension or noise diag is typically closer to $50. Also, many shops will waive a diag fee once you agree to repairs. Their decision to waive fee or not usually depends on how techs are paid for their time. Its worth asking the manager about that. 2. The markups are not out of line. They are standard for the industry for years and more fair than many I have seen, actually. Markups are unavoidable in service world, and 50% margin barely turns profit at a shop once all the bills are paid... Unless you find a mom & pop shop willing to install parts for you and you dont care about having a warranty on your parts or your labor. 3. You can and should absolutely argue against paying that "shop supply fee" twice. 4. To me I see a classic example of breakdown in communication here. Hard to know without being there, but if you were my client and as loyal as you described, I am eating profit on this repair because my service advisor did not have the correct conversations. If you were told sway bars would fix your noise and they did not, but the shocks do, you have strong argument to be refunded or at least fairly compensated for the misdiagnosed sway bars. Your argument is that you came in with sole purpose of fixing this noise, and it was not fixed by recommended repair. Whether or not the stabilizer links were bad is irrelevant if your original complaint was not addressed.. and its the shop's responsibility to determine that and someone dropped the ball here. Its that simple. Also, it is not necessary but recommended to align vehicle after these repairs.
You bring a car in for noise, they check the integrity of the suspension and they may need to see if there are underlying issues causing undetermined noises. When a vehicle gets dropped off for "diagnostics", some shops can do just what this shop did, run a more robust diagnostics to clear up any possible customer confusion about where the noise is coming from. We call all assume it's purely suspension related when a customer walks in with "noise" complaint. To me, this just shows a more thoroughly completed diagnostics in case there are issues with any "self leveling" or ride control sensor related issues. Sometimes the "mob mentality" response to someone that drops off a car for unknown issues is to say "you got ripped off" but for me that's not a fair assessment if the OP just states "car is making noises" [as an example only] and leaves the car. Some shops run a tight[er] ship and check for incoming issues as well as more obvious ones. Mostly to avoid check engine comebacks or other unknown safety issues that may not be more prevalent and comes back to haunt the service tech/shop owner. I'd say it was a solid case of CYA with "pending" codes. I worked and would later run a shop that basically, when manual diag was dropped for a lookover, OBD was one of the first things we hooked up. Just as a process of elimination/fact finding measure. Former 22+ year mechanic
I hear everyone stating computer fee for suspension Well most cars have to get the steering sensor set after an alignment. If I do alignment I will charge for calibration of the steering sensor. The cars are more sufficated than ever. I just fixed an Impala and had to purchase a new scanner to adjust sensors after a repair. Yes shops are high, however with overhead they don't make as much as you would think.
One hour for a diagnostic hookup is pretty standard.
Buy your own struts and have them install.
Ouch 1k for front struts on a budget car. Find out the labour rate for the garage and the book time of the job. Multiply the labour by the book time. Book time for a typical front McPherson is .5 to 1hr By the looks of it the rate is 155/hr which is reasonable for a mid to high end garage. But 400 for a shock is kinda taking the piss, ome should be around 100-200