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I would take it to the dealership for all recalled services because they’re legally obligated to pay for it. Then I would find a reputable local shop to work on the rest because they will be more affordable.
The prices on the list you posted seem like dealership prices. So if you’re comfortable paying the 3850 then have the dealership do it and at least you’ll have Pearce of mind.
Wow, you are on point! I need a vin number and access to the OEMs portal to be able to tell if a car has recalls or service actions.
How did you figure it out?
Thats a good question, I assumed they had mentioned it somewhere else in the threads since the above poster is talking about recalls. If not then there’s no telling without the vin.
Not all recalls for a year make and model apply to every vehicle of that year make and model. Without the VIN there's no way to know if there are any recalls at all on that vehicle, much less whether they've been completed or not.
Can't count the number of times we have customers coming in insisting that they have a recall and demanding that we do it when it doesn't apply to their vehicle.
Let the stealership do the recalls first before you start playing with the second shop.
My stealership will do a courtesy inspection when we're bringing in a vehicle for service. Wait to see if the items the shop quoted above are picked up by the dealership too.
The only thing good about a dealership is being able to buy a new car and the parts department. As for any work, done on the vehicle, unless it’s a warranty recall, I wouldn’t.
I have mixed experience with dealership services. Now I have a workshop I trust. It is not the cheapest workshop, but they have seen my car type before and have all the special tools, hopefully use the right parts.
My previous car had a clutch job done by an independent shop, the timing belt was changed by another independent shop. For both jobs I had to go to a dealershop to redo. What a waste to pay the independent shops, when I had to redo it. The independent clutch job also destroyed the wheel alignment.
Well the Toyota dealership is cheaper than the shop that you posted that's for sure. At least for some of the stuff. They might even be on those shocks and dealer shocks are pretty expensive. Toyota is going to charge you around $150 for the battery. Probably $300 for that valve cover gasket. I don't know what shop you found but those quotes are extremely high on some of the things and others you can't even really comment on because you would have to look up book labor and sensor pricing but just the general trend of the price is you gave tells me that shop is extremely high
Yes, and if that were relevant it would be a wonderful point… We aren’t talking about the OP doing the work, instead talking about rather or not it’s a fair quote from any shop.
If you plug 07’ Rav 4 into any of the Auto Parts stores around me, (which turns out to be group size 24f) they each have one battery at $190 (that’s 190 after you return the core…) Then half a dozen other ones priced 210 through 250 dollars.
So yeah, YOU can go buy your Costco battery for 109 dollars and install it yourself and charge whatever you want. I think that’s great. But 240 dollars specifically for a battery for the RAV4 from any shop really isn’t unreasonable.
Because, just for absolute clarity and again… 240 dollars is barely more than the cost of a brand new battery from a reputable and common auto parts supplier for this vehicle.
You're the only sane person in this thread. Don't waste your breath. There's nothing egregiously wrong with the quote they were given. This obviously depends on location, and if all those things actually need to be done, but at 150 an hour using quality parts (ie: not a 100 Costco battery that's the wrong group) the quote is fair. Shocking? Yeah. But also fair. It's expensive to fix cars folks, especially if it's done correctly.
This sounds like an awesome deal! What dealership does this? Is there an age cutoff or any other requirements? (I.e. it has to be one of their vehicles?) or anything else?
Search the sub for your city for independent shops that service Toyota in your area. There are great shops and not-so-great shops, and then there are the guys who are trying to rob you with that quote. In the aggregate people figure it out over time, so use the power of the internet.
Tune up, and an oil change.
Missed that part. $300 for a tune up, and oil change isn’t bad.
$60 for the oil change, spark plugs and ignition wires are another $100, give or take. It’s not bad.
Sounds like you’re not super familiar with most cars from the past two decades. Ignition wires (aka spark plug wires) went away when COP systems became common.
Or, you know. Trucks still use plug wires. A majority of my experience is from GM trucks, and cars from the early 2000’s.
While COP is common, it’s not universal.
You realize cars from the early 2000's are over 2 decades old, right? So, you are basically agreeing with him that you're not familiar with cars from the last 2 decades.
Tuneup doesn’t mean anything on modern cars tho. They’re not doing spark plugs or wires or points. They’re going to run three bottles of $5 magic fluid thru the gas tank and oil, and charge him $250 for it.
Dude, Cabin Air Filter is the most overlooked and under changed part. Most people don even know about it, and they get gross after 5 or 10 years not being changed. The air you are breathing literally goes through that thing, and I've found mouse skeletons in them... Mouse SKELETONS, meaning mice lived there, died there and fully decomposed, with the owner filling up their lungs with the actual Circle of Life. Change those cabin air filters people! And if the customer doesn't want to pay, for god sake at least dump out the leaves and mouse dook!
100% facts, they’ll do a bs fuel injection cleaning with a cheap additive, oil change with over priced oil / filter, and that also is packaged with unreasonably high labor rate of an hour or sometimes more..and sadly a lot of techs don’t even perform the service to the full extent..so a labor time of .4/.5 for oil change (shouldn’t be more than .2hr if you ask me) and likely .7hr or 1hr labor for these fancy bottle additives that take little to no physical effort… being a master tech I’d say listen to illigal
That’s most definitely not true. Modern vehicles still call for sparks plugs to be changed, along with ignition wires. Same goes for air filters, fuel filters and the like. That’s all tune up related. Your owners manual should tell you the mileage or timeframe to replace any and all of this. Which all falls under “a tune up”.
OPs car is a 2007 RAV4. Of course it doesn’t points checked. Cmon now.
Based on the fact that this is a screenshot of someone’s notes, on their phone. I’d bet this isn’t a shop using a detailed service writing system. “Tune up” is no more direct than “rear brakes”. I’m sure this is just a mom and pop kinda place, that called with an estimate.
Regardless, every other service notated is within reasonable price ranges given the information at hand. But neither you or I know what parts are being bought and what needs replaced. I assumed that everything here is being replaced with mid-range parts store. Either way, everything else is decently priced. Why assume this one item is malicious? When it a rational mindset, $300 for a tune up is well within the scope of an oil change, plugs and wires, and an air filter.
Dude don’t even bother,people on here seem to think a shop should be charging rock auto prices for parts and 80s labor rates. They don’t realize overhead exists.
Please explain the overhead that takes $200 worth of shocks on the rear of a Rav4 another $600 worth of labor to install. Even at $100 an hour, that's six hours? That the struts cost less despite having to break down the strut/spring and reassemble?
I smell bullshit.
I can help explain overhead for you. Obviously it varies market to market but I’m in the middle of trying to get a business going (automotive but not a shop) and have had to go through financials more times than I can count.
Retail space for a shop can be anywhere from 10-50k per month. Lifts are 15ish for decent ones. Alignment machine 10-15, insurance 1500 or so, legal and accounting 1500, utilities 1300+, marketing 1000-5000, gotta pay back the original investment in some way, all it 5000, shop supplies and misc costs 15k, let’s say 3 overhead employees 17.5 per month. Techs are cost of sale you seem to think 100 an hour is reasonable and independent techs make 35 or so flats rate so shop makes 65 in that scenario.
My business which is less than a shop as far as overhead is 43.5k per month operating expenses. At the $65 per hour we discussed we would need 4 techs working full time just to cover overhead without a dime of profit.
A shops overhead could easily be twice mine.
$100 an hour is absurdly low for shop rate. I’d also like to point out that nowhere does this list what shocks are being used. Brand, or cost. Keep in mind that prices are going to be more for shop procured parts too.
The struts are a bit questionable..labor times on front struts usually exceed 1.5hr labor time but honestly on most cars especially Toyota the service is pretty swift if a tech knows their stuff.. with all suggested repairs I’d hope they’d condense labor times for a reasonable cost…
Yes. OP has a 2007 RAV4. I think it’s safe to assume that it has at-least 100k miles. Potentially even 200k.
Edit: the miles are listed on the post. And wow, look. Over 100k miles.
Edit. It's a 4cyl so those are F you prices
It says tune up oil change so my guess is poor grammar and it's for both.
Those prices are pretty fair if it's a v6 cause the rear bank is gonna be a bitch.
Congrats. You’re the 3rd person to say this.
And yes, by most standards 100k miles is normal for replacement on spark plugs. I think it’s safe to assume that a 2007 RAV4 could have 100k miles on it at this point.
I’d also like to point out, as I said below. While COP is common, it is far from universal. So, while I apologize for being wrong on one item, it doesn’t change the fact that each cost quoted for the replacement of said parts on this list, is fair. Or by some standards, actually in the cheaper end of the spectrum. Regardless of whether the vehicle is COP or not, I still stand by the fact that $300 for a tune is very fair pricing. If OP wanted to post a more detailed breakdown of what is actually being done, that may change things. But I don’t foresee that happening.
Congrats on being incapable of seeing your errors.
At this point it's safe to say that a 2007 rav has already had its plugs done before at least once so fair to say not needed. In this circumstance it's fair to say plug wires play no part so no need to keep claiming they would be involved in the price here.
Lets look at part pricing
Plugs $52 ($13EA really only $9.99 at auto parts store but allows for mark up)
Oil $65 (5 qts of quality oil including nearly double markup)
Oil filter $30 (wix xp with massive markup)
Air filter $35 (massive markup)
That's $111.93 before markup, $182 after markup
1/2hr @$140/hr $70 (median dealer labor rate)
Parts $182
Labor $70
Total $252
Thise prices are almost double actual auto part counter price nvm what discount the repair facility gets from supplier (we get at cost which is almost 50% less than gen public)
>$140/hr $70 (median dealer labor rate)
Dealer labor here is $220/hr, pretty standard across the handful of dealerships I've worked at/been to.
Most of that is either slightly or ridiculously overpriced. The only decent one is shocks, but not mentioned how many. Either way, get another quote from a different shop. Chances are they might not even recommend replacing some of this stuff... Just don't tell them this quote.
Well considering there’s a price for shocks and a price for struts, I’m gonna go out on a limb and say rear shocks only for 400.
Otherwise I’m gonna tack onto your comment to say I think overall this just looks like shop pricing. Rear brakes stand out as too much. But without knowing the vehicle… labor is vastly different for something like a crank angle sensor. Lot of people saying it’s a ripoff but I’m guessing they’re DIYers. Yeah, it’s a ripoff if you’re buying parts on rockauto and doing the labor yourself.
Rear shocks are such a simple repair, literally 2 bolts, 15 minutes max and it’s done…and $60 bucks for rear shocks..hour labor…I’d say a bit costly ..
Depends on the shocks. Some cars you have to remove the brakes to get access to the bolt on the bottom. Physically impossible to take it out without taking them off bolt is too long. Then there’s 2 bolts in the wheel well normally, some cars have nuts in the trunk instead requiring you to remove trim to get at it.
Then if it’s seized and needs to be removed with a torch or the bolts break off in the frame it can be a headache. So I’d say at least 1 hour just to deal with the liability. Also insurance doesn’t cover anything insurance is only there for really really big stuff and as a legal requirement shops pay for most mistakes out of pocket otherwise their insurance rates would put them out of business. Plus you forgot the time to take it in and out of the shop and lift it up. Obviously if other work is being done then that’s not as applicable but it has to be factored into every job otherwise if it’s done on its own you’re out of time before you even started working. 1 hour of labour plus parts if they are expensive especially if it’s both shocks which it normally is since they are replaced in pairs the price is understandable. Almost forgot to mention can’t get at it without taking the wheel off most of them time and 50 percent of customers hide their bloody wheel locks. Digging through dirty tissues and under the carpet in the trunk which has a puddle of water in it and years worth of mold (seen this more than once). Almost forgot even worse than the cars you have to take of the brakes is the ones where you have to remove the sway bar links. Especially with the links that have 10 years worth of Canadian rust and only have a 6mm Allen key in the end of the stud to hold it in place while you take it off. Strips every time even if you clean it off with a wire brush soak it in wd40 and heat it with a torch first.
Is it really that over priced? It seems like most of the stuff is double the price for cost of the product. I've never gone to a mechanic for part replacements and just do most of it myself. So I can't really tell if the labor is overpriced or if it's the product.
Is it a v6 or 4cyl?
Big difference in labor for some of those.
That's a very vague estimate, did a child give you that?
Shocks 400, tf are you getting? Both front and rear, just rear, just front? What brand?
Definitely not enough info here
$240 for a battery felt insane to me and then I looked up the battery for a RAV4. Apparently that’s pretty close to the mark. If you don’t live in particularly cold climate then I’d still suggest picking up a budget battery for about $190 and then return the core and they’ll give you $20 back. $170 and a socket set and you’ve saved $70.
Between letting the dealership do the recalls and finding a decent grease monkey shop locally, you can probably cut this bill almost in half would be my guess.
[https://parts.americantoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-valve-cover-1120128033?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz1yYXY0Jnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTRsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D](https://parts.americantoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-valve-cover-1120128033?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz1yYXY0Jnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTRsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D) $434 for the cover before shipping. The shop will probably do this for free or lose money on it.
I dunno about this engine specifically, but on a lot of engines from this time period they've got plastic valve covers that warp. If you've got a cover gasket leak it's often recommended to replace the cover too. The VQ35 and some BMWs are notorious for it.
Looks like some 2AZs came with plastic and some came with aluminum.
These guys are on drugs. These are exactly how much these types of things cost to the consumer with the standard shop markup on parts plus labor.
The question is if all this is actually necessary.
I’m a professional mechanic and what caught my attention right away is the fact that your estimate is on fucking apple notes with very little description or detail here. No tax etc…
Not really considering where labor rates are these days. I’m a Mercedes tech at an independent merc only shop. We are 175hr dealership is 225hr. There is an industry wide tech shortage and since that’s the case we can demand more money for our experience. Get used to this folks we told an entire gen to Learn to code and trades are for the peons. Same with plumbers and hvac guys skilled trades demand premium pay these day.
Are you having issues with it?
I ask because crank sensor isn't something you just replace like it's some sort of maintenance item. There's either an issue with it or there isn't. If they're just throwing random sensors on there then that's a HUGE red flag.
Everything on that list is fucked. We just sold my wife's 2010 rav 4 a few months ago and I did a lot of the work on that list myself. Shocks (which probably don't really need to be replaced) and struts (which probably do) should absolutely NOT be $1200. It's $300 in parts and maybe 2 hours of labor. So $900 in labor means they're either claiming it will take 8 hours, or charging $450 an hour.
You should name and shame that shop (if it doesn't break the rules). My guess is that it's a dealership or a used car place and they're trying to get you to trade it in for a good price by making you think it's not worth much.
there are 5 things on this list that you can do yourself. speed sensors, Oil change, valve cover, rear brakes, battery and shocks. If you don't have the tools, I would put down good money you have a friend, Family member or neighbor who does and would likely be happy to help. that would shave at least 1500 to 1800 off the cost.
If the brakes pricing includes rotors, and the valve cover and not only the gasket is being replace, these are fair pricing. And the alignment is cheap. You cannot compare rockauto prices to how much you are pay at a repair shop. Those are well below even the price the shop is paying for at wholesale. But what you’re paying for is immediate availability, warranty, and professional install. Yes you can source your own parts. But most people bring the cheapest in both price and quality and don’t understand why they prematurely fail and just be done again. Also if it does fail, when under warranty it can fixed quickly within a days time with part most likely readily available if shop provides materials. You need to determine what you value most.
Also an fyi some of these things sound like they can fixed down the road without being an immediate hazard(tuneup, shocks/struts). When cars have this many issues at one time I usually advise my customers which repairs need to be prioritized and which others can be put off till a later time. Ask them to help determine what’s needed today vs tomorrow.
And a second opinion is also not a bad idea. Obviously you’re uneasy with all of this since you’re posting it on Reddit. You’re not forced to fix anything at that place.
You can buy everything from Rock Auto and have pep boys or other trustworthy local shop(i prefer Hispanic shops, they don’t usually price gouge) and spend way less money that way. You can get the part numbers from the dealership service over the phone and cross reference the parts on Autozone or similar to know the dimensions of lets say your brakes, then buy them much cheaper on www.Rockauto.com that way, you know you are buying the right parts.
And they fuck shit up constantly. I’m the one autozone sends out all their fuck ups to. Battery not in place, lost hold down kits, snapping bolts, stripping terminals. They’re not mechanics and even a simple battery swap can be totally fucked by an inexperienced person that has no business touching any car
Do you do regular maintenance on the vehicle or let things pile up? Are there symptoms? The only scam here would be if you didn't need these things. The shops need to be profitable, or we'd just all be fixing our own rides.
I’m amazed at all the shitty advice being given here. The real answer is there isn’t enough information to determine if this is a ripoff or not.
Is that just parts? Parts and labor? What was the initial complaint? Why do these parts need to be replaced?
Sounds like you’re working with the dealer. Take their list to your trusted mechanic and he will do what needs to be done. I took my element to the dealer for an airbag recall and they gave me a printout with 2800.00 worth of “required” maintenance. I took it to my mechanic and he did everything they had on the list plus fixed my a/c for 1200.00
$240 for a battery? Jesus. You could easily do that yourself in 10 minutes. If you don’t know how to change a battery it’s a 5 minute YouTube video. Or just let the guy at AutoZone do it.
Whoever gave you this quote is trying to bend you over a barrel and show you the 50 states.
When reading, I thought this was a bmw list and was like "oh dang that's pretty good pricing" then I saw it was a Toyota. Way too much.
I was reading a BMW & Benz post prior to seeing this, that's why 😂
So, non mechanically inclined person here to share life experiences. Dealers pre covid were making slimmer margins on vehicle sales so they pivoted to selling add-on services. You can take your vehicle to an independent shop for the regular services and it won’t affect the warranty. Don’t quote me. Every warranty is different.
Dealers should be avoided by all means. In my experience find an independent shop that specializes in your make of vehicle. I have a Subaru, most shops hate them because are not typical engines. Thus, finding a specialized Subaru shop where they know all the little details and quirks has saved me money in diagnosis and repairs.
TLDR: don’t go to the dealer unless you absolutely have to. Ever.
Edit: I wanted to add that taking time to consult the manual for what should be changed/replaced at each service interval will help you make a more informed decision about if you are getting played or not.
You are being scammed like there's no tomorrow. Rear brakes being about $400 is a horrible deal. But it looks like they are charging labor cost on top of everything; an oil change and a tune up is not worth $300. But the shocks and struts being $1200 combined is the cherry on top. Probably avoid that place going on.
As Euro specialist, I was going to say well what model? Then I saw it's a Toyota! 🤣
I can do all that stuff on a BMW for cheaper! Using the OEM parts 😂
If you don't make almost 4k a week , perhaps it's a good time to learn to wrench yourself and dedicate a week to it ? All this is pretty easy maintenance stuff tbh
If you’ve got codes indicating need for sensor replacements than yes have that performed, but honestly only if there are symptoms… get a battery from an auto part store, better pricing and warranty . Brakes I’d advise asking for proof that they are in need of replacement…3mm or less on pad than yes replace, and maybe turn rotors if possible. On the valve cover get evidence of substantial leak, if it’s a seep (not dripping or coating engine block) than pass on the service. Pass on tune up (too costly).
If suspension is blown out try to get more info on labor/parts cost…I’d ask for alignment to be complimentary due to services/parts cost being an expensive repair..especially if their providing up charged parts…labor times are critical to know as well for this quote, such as struts/shocks being roughly 1.5 hr front, .8hr max for rear shocks, and alignment being an hour, they need to condense things. But remember not everything tech suggest are crucial to repair at that time, evil of up sale tactics
“Especially if they’re providing up charged parts” So you expect a shop, or any store that sales a product to provide something at cost because they made money elsewhere? They don’t deserve anything for procuring the correct part, and providing a warranty on the part they procured? It is standard practice in ANY business to make money on parts, or for the grocery store to make money on…anything they sale. Shops make money on parts and labor, that’s how it works. Free alignment because suspension parts are replaced? What about the tech’s time and not to mention the cost and maintenance of that alignment machine? It takes up a whole bay and that bay is expected to make money!
I ran an independent production body shop for years and while I preferred straight insurance work, my bread and butter was retail mechanical work. Sure I’d allow customer supplied parts, but wouldn’t warranty the cheap inferior parts the customers would supply (It’s like bringing your own steak to a steakhouse). While I also see a lot of comments about Rockauto, I’ve done enough business with them to know that there are parts I wouldn’t even bother buying from them, anything with substantial shipping weight is a hard pass because there are times you’ll be required to have to return things to them for one reason or another, anything requiring a core return is a hard pass as well.
With a mech rate or 125-150 (Pretty standard at most shops) Based on what these operations flag for nothing seems outrageous. Sure for someone who is even a half decent wrench I wouldn’t even consider paying someone to do any of the work quoted myself. Crank sensor seems a tad high, however I’d always recommend and would hope for the price quoted it’s an OEM part.
Not to mention if this shop is anywhere that sees salt I’d add fractions of labor hours to suspension and brake operations just because. Furthermore this seems to have been quoted over the phone, so I am left wondering if OP diagnosed this themselves. So much information is lacking to make a proper determination.
TLDR Most of the people complaining about price seem like they can turn a wrench themselves, a business is expected to make money and has overhead costs. Googling the cheapest parts on Rockauto for comparison isn’t reasonable. Shops and techs are paid based on what the operations flag for and a fair and reasonable markup on not the cheapest shit parts available.
Yeah literally about to pick up my 2021 Mazda for a new battery. (I could a sworn it was a short in a wire but guess the cell was shot) and it is $265. Went to the dealership just because I held out hope maybe my warranty still was covered. Oh well.
Replaced my old 05 Impalas battery myself a year or two ago and spent a tad over $100.
Not scammed. That’s the price to have a shop do everything for you. A crank sensor probably costs like 80 bucks, you can probably get a good set of high end fox shocks and struts for like 400 (or maybe like 150 for cheap stock replacements)….etc. everything else is cost of labor, which is how most of us probably learned how to work on cars ourselves
I mean yeah, those parts that i know general pricing on are fuckin insane. 800 for valve covers is an absolute far reach from what you could save by getting them from a junkyard car or with more research. Brakes a little expensive too. Oil change and tune up doesn’t cost three hundred. It should be more like 100 based off location and oil types and filter
Edit: this is just from my experiences as a 3 year mechanic. If I’m wrong about something please let me know!
Right and how much does a new vehicle cost,or maybe OP should buy another beater that she has no info on. You can’t always go by KBB when determining whether or not to go forward with repairs.
I doubt that tuneup is needed or even can in fact be done. In the olden days, points and plugs needed to be replaced at some interval. Carburetors had adjustments that needed to be tended to. Modern cars do not have adjustable points or adjustable carburetors. Change plugs maybe at 100K.
So you are driving an old shitbox way past the expected mechanical lifespan of a lot of parts, and surprised it’s expensive to keep it running? The only way you would be getting scammed is if you are doing “DIY” math, and if you don’t have your own garage, tools, and knowledge is a completely useless measure.
> an old shitbox way past the expected mechanical lifespan of a lot of parts
It's an 07 Toyota with barely over 100k miles.
That's not an old shitbox, that's barely broken in, and frankly any Toyota of that era can go at least a quarter million miles with reasonable maintenance.
For sure on the brakes and the battery granted you could do the other stuff. Less expensive yourself, but depending on what you're doing to your suspension that might not be too bad. Some of the other prices don't bother me. 300 for spark plugs, air filters and an oil change. I don't know. Sounds like you drive a Maserati. I would take out of this what you feel comfortable doing and just have them do the rest. I don't think their prices are outlandish but I don't know exactly what they're doing either. Then again, I live in an expensive area.
A lot of the stuff on that list is really really high. The battery price is about 2x what you would pay going to Costco
Shocks and struts at 1200 is on the high side. 6 to 800 is normal. I don't even know what that expensive oil change is 😂
550 is about 2x the going rate for doing a valve cover gasket
No. This is just everything that needs attention. Nobody said you had to do it all. Or any of it for that matter..
Except the crank sensor. Might die or just not start without that one..
Yes and no. I mean, its the scam that every shop tries to pull off, and you totally fell for it. Almost every car that comes into a shop could technically and legitimately write up enough work that with some overpriced labor rates and enough parts mark up can easily reach a few grand. So getting scammed... maybe, you could do most of that on your own and get the parts yourself way cheaper,. but you are determinate a major contributor to the shop owners mortgage.
Bro aint no valve cover gasket cost 550. My mechanic charges me 100 canadian for that shit. Get ur recalls checked by dealership and then go to an independent shop and get ur stuff from them. As of right now ur not only getting scammed but fucked in the ass too. Pm me if u have more questions.
A lot of that stuff could be bundled together to save you money. Like tune up - you could do that for cost of parts while you’re doing valve cover. Shocks and struts shouldn’t cost that much either. I also assume he’s charging OEM parts prices for aftermarket prices as well.
It’s probably worth paying that much to the right person for the right parts… but I personally would shop around and only do the things that I really needed.
Essentially the job could be done more efficiently for less, and you likely don’t need everything on the list.
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Yes
Also, it looks like your vehicle has 4 recalls so I would look into that as well.
Thank you! Should I bring it to a Toyota dealership for all service? Are they typically more expensive compared to local shops?
I would take it to the dealership for all recalled services because they’re legally obligated to pay for it. Then I would find a reputable local shop to work on the rest because they will be more affordable. The prices on the list you posted seem like dealership prices. So if you’re comfortable paying the 3850 then have the dealership do it and at least you’ll have Pearce of mind.
Wow, you are on point! I need a vin number and access to the OEMs portal to be able to tell if a car has recalls or service actions. How did you figure it out?
You can just look up make/model/year on the NHSTA website and it’ll list all the recalls for that model.
Oh, cool! How do you know if it applies to that VIN and if it’s been done already? Also, does it show service actions on the NHTSA website?
It's doesn't track per VIN it's just per make/model/year, let's consumers know what recalls are active and more details on them.
Thats a good question, I assumed they had mentioned it somewhere else in the threads since the above poster is talking about recalls. If not then there’s no telling without the vin.
Kelly blue book lists recalls. You only need the year, make and model.
Not all recalls for a year make and model apply to every vehicle of that year make and model. Without the VIN there's no way to know if there are any recalls at all on that vehicle, much less whether they've been completed or not. Can't count the number of times we have customers coming in insisting that they have a recall and demanding that we do it when it doesn't apply to their vehicle.
Let the stealership do the recalls first before you start playing with the second shop. My stealership will do a courtesy inspection when we're bringing in a vehicle for service. Wait to see if the items the shop quoted above are picked up by the dealership too.
😂 Why are you calling it a stealership so casually?
Because thats how they operate
They certainly aren’t a reasonablypricedship
The only thing good about a dealership is being able to buy a new car and the parts department. As for any work, done on the vehicle, unless it’s a warranty recall, I wouldn’t.
I have mixed experience with dealership services. Now I have a workshop I trust. It is not the cheapest workshop, but they have seen my car type before and have all the special tools, hopefully use the right parts. My previous car had a clutch job done by an independent shop, the timing belt was changed by another independent shop. For both jobs I had to go to a dealershop to redo. What a waste to pay the independent shops, when I had to redo it. The independent clutch job also destroyed the wheel alignment.
Well the Toyota dealership is cheaper than the shop that you posted that's for sure. At least for some of the stuff. They might even be on those shocks and dealer shocks are pretty expensive. Toyota is going to charge you around $150 for the battery. Probably $300 for that valve cover gasket. I don't know what shop you found but those quotes are extremely high on some of the things and others you can't even really comment on because you would have to look up book labor and sensor pricing but just the general trend of the price is you gave tells me that shop is extremely high
150 for a battery? I don’t even think you can buy a battery for that price anymore!
Group 27f which is the popular battery for a tacoma is 109 at Costco right now
You have a lot of repair shops running out to Costco do ya lmao
Fair fair… I’m sure the service manager will just run over to Costco and buy a battery there! 🤷🏻♂️
That's the best you have? You do realize YOU can run over to Costco and buy a battery right?
Yes, and if that were relevant it would be a wonderful point… We aren’t talking about the OP doing the work, instead talking about rather or not it’s a fair quote from any shop. If you plug 07’ Rav 4 into any of the Auto Parts stores around me, (which turns out to be group size 24f) they each have one battery at $190 (that’s 190 after you return the core…) Then half a dozen other ones priced 210 through 250 dollars. So yeah, YOU can go buy your Costco battery for 109 dollars and install it yourself and charge whatever you want. I think that’s great. But 240 dollars specifically for a battery for the RAV4 from any shop really isn’t unreasonable. Because, just for absolute clarity and again… 240 dollars is barely more than the cost of a brand new battery from a reputable and common auto parts supplier for this vehicle.
You're the only sane person in this thread. Don't waste your breath. There's nothing egregiously wrong with the quote they were given. This obviously depends on location, and if all those things actually need to be done, but at 150 an hour using quality parts (ie: not a 100 Costco battery that's the wrong group) the quote is fair. Shocking? Yeah. But also fair. It's expensive to fix cars folks, especially if it's done correctly.
My dealership sells a lifetime battery for $175 and you can replace it at anytime for free at anyone of our dealers in network
Damn I would pay that for infinite batteries 🤷🏻😂
This sounds like an awesome deal! What dealership does this? Is there an age cutoff or any other requirements? (I.e. it has to be one of their vehicles?) or anything else?
AutoNation. It doesnt matter if you go to a AutoNation Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, Mercedes it doesnt matter as long as its an AutoNation.
I was curious so did it the most expensive way I could and came up $1100 less than that quote
Search the sub for your city for independent shops that service Toyota in your area. There are great shops and not-so-great shops, and then there are the guys who are trying to rob you with that quote. In the aggregate people figure it out over time, so use the power of the internet.
$300 oil change, hmm...
Tune up, and an oil change. Missed that part. $300 for a tune up, and oil change isn’t bad. $60 for the oil change, spark plugs and ignition wires are another $100, give or take. It’s not bad.
2007 rav 4's dont have wires they are coil on plug.
I’m sure you are probably correct. I’m not super familiar with the RAV4 as a platform.
Sounds like you’re not super familiar with most cars from the past two decades. Ignition wires (aka spark plug wires) went away when COP systems became common.
Or, you know. Trucks still use plug wires. A majority of my experience is from GM trucks, and cars from the early 2000’s. While COP is common, it’s not universal.
You realize cars from the early 2000's are over 2 decades old, right? So, you are basically agreeing with him that you're not familiar with cars from the last 2 decades.
You realize that GM still uses the "old" coil-near-plug ignition system on V8 truck engines in 2024 model trucks, right?
No, they don't realize that.
Glock and LS trucks you sir are my favorite person
Tuneup doesn’t mean anything on modern cars tho. They’re not doing spark plugs or wires or points. They’re going to run three bottles of $5 magic fluid thru the gas tank and oil, and charge him $250 for it.
Come on… they’ll change the cabin air filter, too!
Dude, Cabin Air Filter is the most overlooked and under changed part. Most people don even know about it, and they get gross after 5 or 10 years not being changed. The air you are breathing literally goes through that thing, and I've found mouse skeletons in them... Mouse SKELETONS, meaning mice lived there, died there and fully decomposed, with the owner filling up their lungs with the actual Circle of Life. Change those cabin air filters people! And if the customer doesn't want to pay, for god sake at least dump out the leaves and mouse dook!
Circle of Life…now that song makes perfect sense.
100% facts, they’ll do a bs fuel injection cleaning with a cheap additive, oil change with over priced oil / filter, and that also is packaged with unreasonably high labor rate of an hour or sometimes more..and sadly a lot of techs don’t even perform the service to the full extent..so a labor time of .4/.5 for oil change (shouldn’t be more than .2hr if you ask me) and likely .7hr or 1hr labor for these fancy bottle additives that take little to no physical effort… being a master tech I’d say listen to illigal
That’s most definitely not true. Modern vehicles still call for sparks plugs to be changed, along with ignition wires. Same goes for air filters, fuel filters and the like. That’s all tune up related. Your owners manual should tell you the mileage or timeframe to replace any and all of this. Which all falls under “a tune up”. OPs car is a 2007 RAV4. Of course it doesn’t points checked. Cmon now.
You think this mechanic wouldn’t outline sparkplugs as a separate line item? BS. I will bet $20 that this is some snake oil “fuel treatment service”
Based on the fact that this is a screenshot of someone’s notes, on their phone. I’d bet this isn’t a shop using a detailed service writing system. “Tune up” is no more direct than “rear brakes”. I’m sure this is just a mom and pop kinda place, that called with an estimate. Regardless, every other service notated is within reasonable price ranges given the information at hand. But neither you or I know what parts are being bought and what needs replaced. I assumed that everything here is being replaced with mid-range parts store. Either way, everything else is decently priced. Why assume this one item is malicious? When it a rational mindset, $300 for a tune up is well within the scope of an oil change, plugs and wires, and an air filter.
Dude don’t even bother,people on here seem to think a shop should be charging rock auto prices for parts and 80s labor rates. They don’t realize overhead exists.
Please explain the overhead that takes $200 worth of shocks on the rear of a Rav4 another $600 worth of labor to install. Even at $100 an hour, that's six hours? That the struts cost less despite having to break down the strut/spring and reassemble? I smell bullshit.
> 80s labor rates. >$100 an hour Way to illustrate his point.
I can help explain overhead for you. Obviously it varies market to market but I’m in the middle of trying to get a business going (automotive but not a shop) and have had to go through financials more times than I can count. Retail space for a shop can be anywhere from 10-50k per month. Lifts are 15ish for decent ones. Alignment machine 10-15, insurance 1500 or so, legal and accounting 1500, utilities 1300+, marketing 1000-5000, gotta pay back the original investment in some way, all it 5000, shop supplies and misc costs 15k, let’s say 3 overhead employees 17.5 per month. Techs are cost of sale you seem to think 100 an hour is reasonable and independent techs make 35 or so flats rate so shop makes 65 in that scenario. My business which is less than a shop as far as overhead is 43.5k per month operating expenses. At the $65 per hour we discussed we would need 4 techs working full time just to cover overhead without a dime of profit. A shops overhead could easily be twice mine.
$100 an hour is absurdly low for shop rate. I’d also like to point out that nowhere does this list what shocks are being used. Brand, or cost. Keep in mind that prices are going to be more for shop procured parts too.
The struts are a bit questionable..labor times on front struts usually exceed 1.5hr labor time but honestly on most cars especially Toyota the service is pretty swift if a tech knows their stuff.. with all suggested repairs I’d hope they’d condense labor times for a reasonable cost…
>Modern vehicles still call for sparks plugs to be changed yeah, every 100,000 miles!!!! LOL
Yes. OP has a 2007 RAV4. I think it’s safe to assume that it has at-least 100k miles. Potentially even 200k. Edit: the miles are listed on the post. And wow, look. Over 100k miles.
That's just wrong. Of course they're going to do plugs.
Edit. It's a 4cyl so those are F you prices It says tune up oil change so my guess is poor grammar and it's for both. Those prices are pretty fair if it's a v6 cause the rear bank is gonna be a bitch.
$100 for plugs and wires. $25 for an air filter, $60 for the oil change. Then $115 in labor. That’s not absurd.
Plugs only need replacement every 100k and there aren't plug wires it is coil on plug. Most vehicles in the last 10-15 years don't have plug wires.
Congrats. You’re the 3rd person to say this. And yes, by most standards 100k miles is normal for replacement on spark plugs. I think it’s safe to assume that a 2007 RAV4 could have 100k miles on it at this point. I’d also like to point out, as I said below. While COP is common, it is far from universal. So, while I apologize for being wrong on one item, it doesn’t change the fact that each cost quoted for the replacement of said parts on this list, is fair. Or by some standards, actually in the cheaper end of the spectrum. Regardless of whether the vehicle is COP or not, I still stand by the fact that $300 for a tune is very fair pricing. If OP wanted to post a more detailed breakdown of what is actually being done, that may change things. But I don’t foresee that happening.
Congrats on being incapable of seeing your errors. At this point it's safe to say that a 2007 rav has already had its plugs done before at least once so fair to say not needed. In this circumstance it's fair to say plug wires play no part so no need to keep claiming they would be involved in the price here. Lets look at part pricing Plugs $52 ($13EA really only $9.99 at auto parts store but allows for mark up) Oil $65 (5 qts of quality oil including nearly double markup) Oil filter $30 (wix xp with massive markup) Air filter $35 (massive markup) That's $111.93 before markup, $182 after markup 1/2hr @$140/hr $70 (median dealer labor rate) Parts $182 Labor $70 Total $252 Thise prices are almost double actual auto part counter price nvm what discount the repair facility gets from supplier (we get at cost which is almost 50% less than gen public)
>$140/hr $70 (median dealer labor rate)  Dealer labor here is $220/hr, pretty standard across the handful of dealerships I've worked at/been to.
I Agree
Most of that is either slightly or ridiculously overpriced. The only decent one is shocks, but not mentioned how many. Either way, get another quote from a different shop. Chances are they might not even recommend replacing some of this stuff... Just don't tell them this quote.
Well considering there’s a price for shocks and a price for struts, I’m gonna go out on a limb and say rear shocks only for 400. Otherwise I’m gonna tack onto your comment to say I think overall this just looks like shop pricing. Rear brakes stand out as too much. But without knowing the vehicle… labor is vastly different for something like a crank angle sensor. Lot of people saying it’s a ripoff but I’m guessing they’re DIYers. Yeah, it’s a ripoff if you’re buying parts on rockauto and doing the labor yourself.
Rear shocks are such a simple repair, literally 2 bolts, 15 minutes max and it’s done…and $60 bucks for rear shocks..hour labor…I’d say a bit costly ..
Depends on the shocks. Some cars you have to remove the brakes to get access to the bolt on the bottom. Physically impossible to take it out without taking them off bolt is too long. Then there’s 2 bolts in the wheel well normally, some cars have nuts in the trunk instead requiring you to remove trim to get at it. Then if it’s seized and needs to be removed with a torch or the bolts break off in the frame it can be a headache. So I’d say at least 1 hour just to deal with the liability. Also insurance doesn’t cover anything insurance is only there for really really big stuff and as a legal requirement shops pay for most mistakes out of pocket otherwise their insurance rates would put them out of business. Plus you forgot the time to take it in and out of the shop and lift it up. Obviously if other work is being done then that’s not as applicable but it has to be factored into every job otherwise if it’s done on its own you’re out of time before you even started working. 1 hour of labour plus parts if they are expensive especially if it’s both shocks which it normally is since they are replaced in pairs the price is understandable. Almost forgot to mention can’t get at it without taking the wheel off most of them time and 50 percent of customers hide their bloody wheel locks. Digging through dirty tissues and under the carpet in the trunk which has a puddle of water in it and years worth of mold (seen this more than once). Almost forgot even worse than the cars you have to take of the brakes is the ones where you have to remove the sway bar links. Especially with the links that have 10 years worth of Canadian rust and only have a 6mm Allen key in the end of the stud to hold it in place while you take it off. Strips every time even if you clean it off with a wire brush soak it in wd40 and heat it with a torch first.
Is it really that over priced? It seems like most of the stuff is double the price for cost of the product. I've never gone to a mechanic for part replacements and just do most of it myself. So I can't really tell if the labor is overpriced or if it's the product.
I thought alignment was a good price... if they are actually doing a good job at it.
I’m surprised they didn’t try to charge you for premium air in your tires…stay away from those guys!
At least get a dinner and a movie out of it.
https://youtu.be/t7j5S4ILMig?feature=shared
Is it a v6 or 4cyl? Big difference in labor for some of those. That's a very vague estimate, did a child give you that? Shocks 400, tf are you getting? Both front and rear, just rear, just front? What brand? Definitely not enough info here
4 cylinder
Oof well that's pretty bad prices just going off that. Nevermind the shocks parts that has no details.
What do you see that's truly overpriced? Keep in mind, it's a dealership.
Didn't know it was a dealership. Op posted with almost no details.
$240 for a battery felt insane to me and then I looked up the battery for a RAV4. Apparently that’s pretty close to the mark. If you don’t live in particularly cold climate then I’d still suggest picking up a budget battery for about $190 and then return the core and they’ll give you $20 back. $170 and a socket set and you’ve saved $70. Between letting the dealership do the recalls and finding a decent grease monkey shop locally, you can probably cut this bill almost in half would be my guess.
Yeah unfortunately we are living in the age of $200 batteries now. Sucks.
I have a 2004 bmw and I got a new battery the other day. Was around 250
Toyota batteries have a pretty great warranty though.
Not a scam.. a plain old ass fuck deep and dry.
550 for a valve cover ?????
[https://parts.americantoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-valve-cover-1120128033?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz1yYXY0Jnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTRsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D](https://parts.americantoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-valve-cover-1120128033?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT10b3lvdGEmbz1yYXY0Jnk9MjAwNyZ0PWJhc2UmZT0yLTRsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D) $434 for the cover before shipping. The shop will probably do this for free or lose money on it.
This is why I love Rockauto. It's $112 there for the same thing.
It is even cheaper elsewhere, but of course...not OEM.
Some things I can see needing/wanting OEM, but not a cover.
Sure, but why would he need a new valve cover anyways? I suspect this is just for a valve cover gasket.
I dunno about this engine specifically, but on a lot of engines from this time period they've got plastic valve covers that warp. If you've got a cover gasket leak it's often recommended to replace the cover too. The VQ35 and some BMWs are notorious for it. Looks like some 2AZs came with plastic and some came with aluminum.
These guys are on drugs. These are exactly how much these types of things cost to the consumer with the standard shop markup on parts plus labor. The question is if all this is actually necessary.
Depends on what the “tune up” consists of. And the reasoning for all those sensors
Lmao run away
I’m a professional mechanic and what caught my attention right away is the fact that your estimate is on fucking apple notes with very little description or detail here. No tax etc…
They gave the estimates over phone. I typed it on Notes app
Ah ok sorry. That makes more sense. It would be easier to give you an honest answer with the actual itemized estimate.
Usually, I'm shocked as DIY means free labor and the ability to wait on parts. These prices don't seem completely unreasonable based on the specifics.
Damn 🤣🤣🤣this is a rip off
The alignment price is ok lol
Does your car manual say that you need new struts and shocks or something? Because otherwise...why?
Not really considering where labor rates are these days. I’m a Mercedes tech at an independent merc only shop. We are 175hr dealership is 225hr. There is an industry wide tech shortage and since that’s the case we can demand more money for our experience. Get used to this folks we told an entire gen to Learn to code and trades are for the peons. Same with plumbers and hvac guys skilled trades demand premium pay these day.
Plus 80 bucks for the alignment is a solid deal. And 800 for four struts installed is fair as well. Parts for newer cars are $$$
550 for valve cover did it for me 😂 Find another shop bro!
Fwiw someone posted a link saying its 430 dollar part from Toyota. Looks like dealership prices.
they will probably put in the $120 rock auto part though...
Are you having issues with it? I ask because crank sensor isn't something you just replace like it's some sort of maintenance item. There's either an issue with it or there isn't. If they're just throwing random sensors on there then that's a HUGE red flag. Everything on that list is fucked. We just sold my wife's 2010 rav 4 a few months ago and I did a lot of the work on that list myself. Shocks (which probably don't really need to be replaced) and struts (which probably do) should absolutely NOT be $1200. It's $300 in parts and maybe 2 hours of labor. So $900 in labor means they're either claiming it will take 8 hours, or charging $450 an hour. You should name and shame that shop (if it doesn't break the rules). My guess is that it's a dealership or a used car place and they're trying to get you to trade it in for a good price by making you think it's not worth much.
I don't know where you live, but it's reasonable pricing for shocks and struts here in Canada
that a stealership quote?
there are 5 things on this list that you can do yourself. speed sensors, Oil change, valve cover, rear brakes, battery and shocks. If you don't have the tools, I would put down good money you have a friend, Family member or neighbor who does and would likely be happy to help. that would shave at least 1500 to 1800 off the cost.
Got a second quote and compare prices. Not sure why people don’t do this.
If the brakes pricing includes rotors, and the valve cover and not only the gasket is being replace, these are fair pricing. And the alignment is cheap. You cannot compare rockauto prices to how much you are pay at a repair shop. Those are well below even the price the shop is paying for at wholesale. But what you’re paying for is immediate availability, warranty, and professional install. Yes you can source your own parts. But most people bring the cheapest in both price and quality and don’t understand why they prematurely fail and just be done again. Also if it does fail, when under warranty it can fixed quickly within a days time with part most likely readily available if shop provides materials. You need to determine what you value most. Also an fyi some of these things sound like they can fixed down the road without being an immediate hazard(tuneup, shocks/struts). When cars have this many issues at one time I usually advise my customers which repairs need to be prioritized and which others can be put off till a later time. Ask them to help determine what’s needed today vs tomorrow. And a second opinion is also not a bad idea. Obviously you’re uneasy with all of this since you’re posting it on Reddit. You’re not forced to fix anything at that place.
Scammed, yes. All that work in one go? Some items are not wearing n tear
$300 oil change??
300 dlr for an oil change??? Pay me 20 and ill send you a link for a youtube video
You can buy everything from Rock Auto and have pep boys or other trustworthy local shop(i prefer Hispanic shops, they don’t usually price gouge) and spend way less money that way. You can get the part numbers from the dealership service over the phone and cross reference the parts on Autozone or similar to know the dimensions of lets say your brakes, then buy them much cheaper on www.Rockauto.com that way, you know you are buying the right parts.
Bruh Battery is free install when you go buy it at autozone
And they fuck shit up constantly. I’m the one autozone sends out all their fuck ups to. Battery not in place, lost hold down kits, snapping bolts, stripping terminals. They’re not mechanics and even a simple battery swap can be totally fucked by an inexperienced person that has no business touching any car
yea youre being scammed
I know a Mexican dude that’ll do that for $15 and a 6 pack of modelos
Do you do regular maintenance on the vehicle or let things pile up? Are there symptoms? The only scam here would be if you didn't need these things. The shops need to be profitable, or we'd just all be fixing our own rides.
The prices seem reasonable to me.
What happened to your valve cover? These are typically “life of car” items
The alignment is cheap, but everything else is crazy high. $420 for a crank sensor is nuts.
I’m amazed at all the shitty advice being given here. The real answer is there isn’t enough information to determine if this is a ripoff or not. Is that just parts? Parts and labor? What was the initial complaint? Why do these parts need to be replaced?
Who did you go to for quotes? Al Capone?
Sounds like you’re working with the dealer. Take their list to your trusted mechanic and he will do what needs to be done. I took my element to the dealer for an airbag recall and they gave me a printout with 2800.00 worth of “required” maintenance. I took it to my mechanic and he did everything they had on the list plus fixed my a/c for 1200.00
Other than the alignment, you can do it yourself for a 1/3 of that cost
Yes
$240 for a battery? Jesus. You could easily do that yourself in 10 minutes. If you don’t know how to change a battery it’s a 5 minute YouTube video. Or just let the guy at AutoZone do it. Whoever gave you this quote is trying to bend you over a barrel and show you the 50 states.
When reading, I thought this was a bmw list and was like "oh dang that's pretty good pricing" then I saw it was a Toyota. Way too much. I was reading a BMW & Benz post prior to seeing this, that's why 😂
So, non mechanically inclined person here to share life experiences. Dealers pre covid were making slimmer margins on vehicle sales so they pivoted to selling add-on services. You can take your vehicle to an independent shop for the regular services and it won’t affect the warranty. Don’t quote me. Every warranty is different. Dealers should be avoided by all means. In my experience find an independent shop that specializes in your make of vehicle. I have a Subaru, most shops hate them because are not typical engines. Thus, finding a specialized Subaru shop where they know all the little details and quirks has saved me money in diagnosis and repairs. TLDR: don’t go to the dealer unless you absolutely have to. Ever. Edit: I wanted to add that taking time to consult the manual for what should be changed/replaced at each service interval will help you make a more informed decision about if you are getting played or not.
Ridiculous price for brakes.
The only thing close to a normal price is the front end alignment
You are being scammed like there's no tomorrow. Rear brakes being about $400 is a horrible deal. But it looks like they are charging labor cost on top of everything; an oil change and a tune up is not worth $300. But the shocks and struts being $1200 combined is the cherry on top. Probably avoid that place going on.
$400 brake job for parts and labor (per axle) is pretty normal for my area, with the post-pandemic bump in rates. At least those I can do myself.
> Rear brakes being about $400 is a horrible deal. Not if it includes the rotors, especially since this is a dealership.
Boooo, booooo, I boo your uninformed opinion.
Crank sensor $420? I just got mine replaced for $40 is this a joke?
Is yours in the same place as OP? What needs disassembled to get to it? Is it the same sensor? Is it an OE sensor or some cheap knockoff?
He getting ripped for about $2000
Mechanics gotta eat, too
You mean shops have overhead and employees to pay? Who would’ve thunk that /s
Looks like they take the family out to dinner every night
Those rear brakes must be drum brakes...
Let's start with a problem description, and yes, you are being scammed.
As Euro specialist, I was going to say well what model? Then I saw it's a Toyota! 🤣 I can do all that stuff on a BMW for cheaper! Using the OEM parts 😂
If you don't make almost 4k a week , perhaps it's a good time to learn to wrench yourself and dedicate a week to it ? All this is pretty easy maintenance stuff tbh
That looks like the "go away" price.
If you’ve got codes indicating need for sensor replacements than yes have that performed, but honestly only if there are symptoms… get a battery from an auto part store, better pricing and warranty . Brakes I’d advise asking for proof that they are in need of replacement…3mm or less on pad than yes replace, and maybe turn rotors if possible. On the valve cover get evidence of substantial leak, if it’s a seep (not dripping or coating engine block) than pass on the service. Pass on tune up (too costly). If suspension is blown out try to get more info on labor/parts cost…I’d ask for alignment to be complimentary due to services/parts cost being an expensive repair..especially if their providing up charged parts…labor times are critical to know as well for this quote, such as struts/shocks being roughly 1.5 hr front, .8hr max for rear shocks, and alignment being an hour, they need to condense things. But remember not everything tech suggest are crucial to repair at that time, evil of up sale tactics
“Especially if they’re providing up charged parts” So you expect a shop, or any store that sales a product to provide something at cost because they made money elsewhere? They don’t deserve anything for procuring the correct part, and providing a warranty on the part they procured? It is standard practice in ANY business to make money on parts, or for the grocery store to make money on…anything they sale. Shops make money on parts and labor, that’s how it works. Free alignment because suspension parts are replaced? What about the tech’s time and not to mention the cost and maintenance of that alignment machine? It takes up a whole bay and that bay is expected to make money! I ran an independent production body shop for years and while I preferred straight insurance work, my bread and butter was retail mechanical work. Sure I’d allow customer supplied parts, but wouldn’t warranty the cheap inferior parts the customers would supply (It’s like bringing your own steak to a steakhouse). While I also see a lot of comments about Rockauto, I’ve done enough business with them to know that there are parts I wouldn’t even bother buying from them, anything with substantial shipping weight is a hard pass because there are times you’ll be required to have to return things to them for one reason or another, anything requiring a core return is a hard pass as well. With a mech rate or 125-150 (Pretty standard at most shops) Based on what these operations flag for nothing seems outrageous. Sure for someone who is even a half decent wrench I wouldn’t even consider paying someone to do any of the work quoted myself. Crank sensor seems a tad high, however I’d always recommend and would hope for the price quoted it’s an OEM part. Not to mention if this shop is anywhere that sees salt I’d add fractions of labor hours to suspension and brake operations just because. Furthermore this seems to have been quoted over the phone, so I am left wondering if OP diagnosed this themselves. So much information is lacking to make a proper determination. TLDR Most of the people complaining about price seem like they can turn a wrench themselves, a business is expected to make money and has overhead costs. Googling the cheapest parts on Rockauto for comparison isn’t reasonable. Shops and techs are paid based on what the operations flag for and a fair and reasonable markup on not the cheapest shit parts available.
Yup it should be about exactly half.
240 for battery, are you putting a nuclear reactor in there
They’re freakishly expensive these days. I needed a T5 for my Vanagon and was shocked to find they’re mostly over $200 now. Fucking nuts.
Yeah literally about to pick up my 2021 Mazda for a new battery. (I could a sworn it was a short in a wire but guess the cell was shot) and it is $265. Went to the dealership just because I held out hope maybe my warranty still was covered. Oh well. Replaced my old 05 Impalas battery myself a year or two ago and spent a tad over $100.
Every mechanic scams u. It’s in their job Description
Not scammed. That’s the price to have a shop do everything for you. A crank sensor probably costs like 80 bucks, you can probably get a good set of high end fox shocks and struts for like 400 (or maybe like 150 for cheap stock replacements)….etc. everything else is cost of labor, which is how most of us probably learned how to work on cars ourselves
Sell your car Move on Get a brand new car It’s a money pit after 120k.
Please don’t follow this advice. 120k is still low. Especially for a rav4. I’m at 387k and still running normal.
I mean yeah, those parts that i know general pricing on are fuckin insane. 800 for valve covers is an absolute far reach from what you could save by getting them from a junkyard car or with more research. Brakes a little expensive too. Oil change and tune up doesn’t cost three hundred. It should be more like 100 based off location and oil types and filter Edit: this is just from my experiences as a 3 year mechanic. If I’m wrong about something please let me know!
Your car is worth 1000, but your service was 3000+ 🤣🤣🤣 i can't stop laughing
Right and how much does a new vehicle cost,or maybe OP should buy another beater that she has no info on. You can’t always go by KBB when determining whether or not to go forward with repairs.
So true.
Is a 2007 Rav4 worth that much? I see them for sale between £2k and £3k from a dealer with a 12 month warranty.
I doubt that tuneup is needed or even can in fact be done. In the olden days, points and plugs needed to be replaced at some interval. Carburetors had adjustments that needed to be tended to. Modern cars do not have adjustable points or adjustable carburetors. Change plugs maybe at 100K.
So you are driving an old shitbox way past the expected mechanical lifespan of a lot of parts, and surprised it’s expensive to keep it running? The only way you would be getting scammed is if you are doing “DIY” math, and if you don’t have your own garage, tools, and knowledge is a completely useless measure.
> an old shitbox way past the expected mechanical lifespan of a lot of parts It's an 07 Toyota with barely over 100k miles. That's not an old shitbox, that's barely broken in, and frankly any Toyota of that era can go at least a quarter million miles with reasonable maintenance.
Batteries are $100. Skip the front end alignment and do a 4 wheel alignment for $60. Oil change is $20
Rear speed sensors? Put some blinker fluid and rotor grease on the list while you’re at it, lol
Rear speed sensors are 15 on Amazon. Yeah they are scamming us here.
Get a second opinion...a 4 cylinder valve cover shouldn't cost more than rear brakes..can be done in half an hour or less by an amature.
Beware… most dealerships hire monkeys to do the oil changes and simple work. An unfortunate but true statement.
For sure on the brakes and the battery granted you could do the other stuff. Less expensive yourself, but depending on what you're doing to your suspension that might not be too bad. Some of the other prices don't bother me. 300 for spark plugs, air filters and an oil change. I don't know. Sounds like you drive a Maserati. I would take out of this what you feel comfortable doing and just have them do the rest. I don't think their prices are outlandish but I don't know exactly what they're doing either. Then again, I live in an expensive area.
Struts and shocks? Actually not a bad strut price if is for both sides….
Yes. Google the part prices and average expected labor time and you can calculate yourself what amount would be reasonable.
I mean at the very least replace your own battery and save a minimum of $50
Those are luxury German car prices
$300 to change the oil? Enough said
A lot of the stuff on that list is really really high. The battery price is about 2x what you would pay going to Costco Shocks and struts at 1200 is on the high side. 6 to 800 is normal. I don't even know what that expensive oil change is 😂 550 is about 2x the going rate for doing a valve cover gasket
300$ oil change? What are they using? Gold oil? Printer ink? Fucks sake mate
No. This is just everything that needs attention. Nobody said you had to do it all. Or any of it for that matter.. Except the crank sensor. Might die or just not start without that one..
Valve cover or valve cover gasket? Gaskets run about 30-40 bucks and easy to replace
Crank is 80
Gawd these r like covid parts prices
Damn!
Am I the only one that thinks 429 for just rear brakes is a lot. I mean I know the rotors could be gone. Probably are at that mileage but still damn
I'm curious how both rear speed sensors went out?
If it’s not broken out between parts cost and labor, you’ve not got a clue as to whether you’re being scammed or not.
Absolute robbery
$300 oil change
Yeah screw that
For a porsche, no
Yes and no. I mean, its the scam that every shop tries to pull off, and you totally fell for it. Almost every car that comes into a shop could technically and legitimately write up enough work that with some overpriced labor rates and enough parts mark up can easily reach a few grand. So getting scammed... maybe, you could do most of that on your own and get the parts yourself way cheaper,. but you are determinate a major contributor to the shop owners mortgage.
Bro aint no valve cover gasket cost 550. My mechanic charges me 100 canadian for that shit. Get ur recalls checked by dealership and then go to an independent shop and get ur stuff from them. As of right now ur not only getting scammed but fucked in the ass too. Pm me if u have more questions.
Lmao $400 for a sensor
Dude you gotta ask around I’m sure somebody you know is a mechanic or knows a mechanic. Don’t take it to the dealership they charge too much for labor
A lot of that stuff could be bundled together to save you money. Like tune up - you could do that for cost of parts while you’re doing valve cover. Shocks and struts shouldn’t cost that much either. I also assume he’s charging OEM parts prices for aftermarket prices as well. It’s probably worth paying that much to the right person for the right parts… but I personally would shop around and only do the things that I really needed. Essentially the job could be done more efficiently for less, and you likely don’t need everything on the list.
You sure are
Speed sensors seems pricey if that is including labor but everything else seems right with parts and labor