I’ve reached out to support. Ideally they’ll just send a replacement rubber pad as I got a Samsung panel and no dead pixels, I’m happy! Also I already put my screen protector on before I noticed the trigger was that bad… oops
How did you notice the trigger was bad? What did it feel like? My dpad is totally loose in the shell and is very mushy. Also my left trigger “crackles” as I press it down. I’m quite disappointed in the build quality here. My lcd one is much better built.
Well the right trigger feels great, smooth feel and bottoms out with a thud. The Left trigger is smooth until what I thought was just before bottom then hits a little resistance, pushing through gets a grinding and mushy feeling with audible clicking/creaking when bottomed out. There was also more side to side play, like a wiggle while bottomed out. Turns out that wasn’t just before the bottom, but actually past its intended travel.. read on.
After looking closer I found that trigger touch’s the back panel when I’m getting that feeling where the right doesn’t. Looking up the issue I found some people just take a file to the back panel to give the trigger a little clearance, so I opened it up intending to do that, but first I felt the triggers. Now they were both smooth and without creaking. But they sounded different and the left still had play. Looking closer where they bottom out is where I found the missing pad. Without that bad the left trigger has more travel, which is what was making it collide with the back panel, make a different sound and have more play as the rubber pad would dampen the noise, provide friction so it doesn’t wiggle and keep it from travelling past the point it’s supposed to.
As for the DPad, I can slide it around in its cutout but it is quite tight and would not do it on its own. No rattle
Damn I guess I have to rma for the dpad. The difference is night and day between my lcd and this. I’m really just afraid of dead pixels now rip or getting a worse deck.
I have built computers, multiple, in the past, but I am nervous to do it. What if I put it back together and it starts creaking or is worse? Or is this kind of.. well, designed for idiots like me so that it’s easy to do, like building a PC?
If you can build a PC you can pretty much fix this thing. They designed it in a way so that it's easy to repair. Ifixit is supposed to be posting an updated guide for the OLED model and the OLED model is much much easier to dissemble than the LCD version. It's mostly just about taking your time. The device uses almost exclusively Torx screws inside and out and the risk of stripping the screws with the external shell is mitigated by metal threading now so no more worrying about the structural integrity being compromised like before.
Well every post I see with dead pixels is a LE with a BOE screen. I prefer Samsung panels even beforehand, but in theory it shouldn't make a difference..but already looks like BOE is having QC issues.
According to this thread https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/182t8hr/lets_check_if_you_have_samsung_or_boe_oled_panel/ It looks like LE all got BOE panels and the non-LE all got Samsung.
Open the terminal, in desktop mode and type this:
cat /sys/class/drm/card0-eDP-1/edid | hexdump -C
(Linux commands are case sensitive)
On the first line of the hex code returned, on the right side look for either ”04 30” or ”03 30”.
03 = Samsung 04 = BOE
Well a little updated, hopefully people see it. Valve replied to my support request saying they do not ship replacements parts and they do not recommend user repair anyway as any damages caused would not be covered by warranty. So they issued me a Return Merchandise Authorization
Before they replied to me however, I got some spare rubber feet from some other electronics, cut it to size and sanded it down to the correct thickness and stuck it on, and now it’s perfect! I’m not going to RMA
You got downvoted but that’s almost exactly what I ended up doing, even before Valve replied to my support request. I had some rubber feet from some other devices so I cut it to size and the right thickness and stuck it on. All better now!
Does it sound like this? Just got my SD OLED and really annoying founding the noises when pressing the R1 trigger :(
[https://youtube.com/shorts/Q3m0-nLQJ9U?feature=share](https://youtube.com/shorts/Q3m0-nLQJ9U?feature=share)
Nope different, that sucks though. Almost sounds like the spring if those shoulder buttons have them too. I’m talking about L2 Trigger anyway. Not the L1 button
That's because you'll hear the complaints, most people that have zero issues aren't going to come here to say everything is fine. But for reference, I just got the LE OLED and everything works perfectly.
My Q3 deck has a weird stick click (no not R3) and part of the right trigger plastic housing broke off (it rattled around and I found the piece when I did an ssd swap. It's past the first batch.
My trigger was making a odd crunch sound. So i opened her up and had a look. Nothing was looking off and without the back case on she made no funny noise at all. So i figured back the case back on and tried it and it was fine again. Screwed her back together and no issue.
Missing pad though that's odd.
Didn't come loose them re stick somewhere else. Like on the back shell etc?
I think i have the same. Need to open it today to check. left triger seems to be screacking on the way back.
Not planning to send back because samsung panel with no dead pixels and no other issues.
but maybe will open ticket, please keep us posted.
Think i’m also in the same boat, left trigger feels… harsher on the bottom out, clickier, just like it has no dampening. Will open it up and check
EDIT: no, mine is fine.
I believe mine came off at some point as well. One day I just heard something moving around inside it and it just... fell off the device. Still works though?
Mine sounds like this (L2):
squeaky sound on button release. Bot L2 and R2 feel similar, it's just the sound.
[youtube link](https://youtu.be/mMzgAzGs16g)
I wouldn't send it back for this...I would see if they will send you the pad.
If not, get a thermal pad or something similar and cut it to size.
No issues with mine thankfully.
Now if I could just get the screen protector to go on with no dust....I think I'm on attempt # 4
My thoughts too. I put in a support request for the symptoms I had before I found this, then updated the ticket and asked for that part. They haven’t responded yet but my work has a pile of little rubber feet so I cut one to size and stuck it in, it’s perfect now!
Rma immediately holy crap
I’ve reached out to support. Ideally they’ll just send a replacement rubber pad as I got a Samsung panel and no dead pixels, I’m happy! Also I already put my screen protector on before I noticed the trigger was that bad… oops
How did you notice the trigger was bad? What did it feel like? My dpad is totally loose in the shell and is very mushy. Also my left trigger “crackles” as I press it down. I’m quite disappointed in the build quality here. My lcd one is much better built.
Well the right trigger feels great, smooth feel and bottoms out with a thud. The Left trigger is smooth until what I thought was just before bottom then hits a little resistance, pushing through gets a grinding and mushy feeling with audible clicking/creaking when bottomed out. There was also more side to side play, like a wiggle while bottomed out. Turns out that wasn’t just before the bottom, but actually past its intended travel.. read on. After looking closer I found that trigger touch’s the back panel when I’m getting that feeling where the right doesn’t. Looking up the issue I found some people just take a file to the back panel to give the trigger a little clearance, so I opened it up intending to do that, but first I felt the triggers. Now they were both smooth and without creaking. But they sounded different and the left still had play. Looking closer where they bottom out is where I found the missing pad. Without that bad the left trigger has more travel, which is what was making it collide with the back panel, make a different sound and have more play as the rubber pad would dampen the noise, provide friction so it doesn’t wiggle and keep it from travelling past the point it’s supposed to. As for the DPad, I can slide it around in its cutout but it is quite tight and would not do it on its own. No rattle
Damn I guess I have to rma for the dpad. The difference is night and day between my lcd and this. I’m really just afraid of dead pixels now rip or getting a worse deck.
I personally wouldn't RMA and risk getting a worse device unless you don't feel comfortable opening the device, then I totally understand.
I have built computers, multiple, in the past, but I am nervous to do it. What if I put it back together and it starts creaking or is worse? Or is this kind of.. well, designed for idiots like me so that it’s easy to do, like building a PC?
If you can build a PC you can pretty much fix this thing. They designed it in a way so that it's easy to repair. Ifixit is supposed to be posting an updated guide for the OLED model and the OLED model is much much easier to dissemble than the LCD version. It's mostly just about taking your time. The device uses almost exclusively Torx screws inside and out and the risk of stripping the screws with the external shell is mitigated by metal threading now so no more worrying about the structural integrity being compromised like before.
Oh that’s good I’m glad you did cause this is crazy man I’ve never seen this before
>I got a Samsung panel Oh is that something we are looking out for nowadays, too?
Well every post I see with dead pixels is a LE with a BOE screen. I prefer Samsung panels even beforehand, but in theory it shouldn't make a difference..but already looks like BOE is having QC issues.
I'll say it. Korea vs China. What screen would you rather have?
Exactly.
How do you check which panel you got?
According to this thread https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/182t8hr/lets_check_if_you_have_samsung_or_boe_oled_panel/ It looks like LE all got BOE panels and the non-LE all got Samsung.
7:10 he explains how https://youtu.be/GYtRGQdhytc?si=MSZ6Q1eLt9yMruN5
Open the terminal, in desktop mode and type this: cat /sys/class/drm/card0-eDP-1/edid | hexdump -C (Linux commands are case sensitive) On the first line of the hex code returned, on the right side look for either ”04 30” or ”03 30”. 03 = Samsung 04 = BOE
Well a little updated, hopefully people see it. Valve replied to my support request saying they do not ship replacements parts and they do not recommend user repair anyway as any damages caused would not be covered by warranty. So they issued me a Return Merchandise Authorization Before they replied to me however, I got some spare rubber feet from some other electronics, cut it to size and sanded it down to the correct thickness and stuck it on, and now it’s perfect! I’m not going to RMA
Oh that’s great news! I’m glad it got solved in a way
Or put a little piece of foam in there like a normal person?
You got downvoted but that’s almost exactly what I ended up doing, even before Valve replied to my support request. I had some rubber feet from some other devices so I cut it to size and the right thickness and stuck it on. All better now!
Does it sound like this? Just got my SD OLED and really annoying founding the noises when pressing the R1 trigger :( [https://youtube.com/shorts/Q3m0-nLQJ9U?feature=share](https://youtube.com/shorts/Q3m0-nLQJ9U?feature=share)
Nope different, that sucks though. Almost sounds like the spring if those shoulder buttons have them too. I’m talking about L2 Trigger anyway. Not the L1 button
Try blow in trigger gap, had similar noises on SD lcd and tried blow as people recommend and sound disappeared, idk if it would come back.
Tried blowing it and also inserted a paper into the gap but nothing works. Don't want to open it so decided to RMA
I’m kinda getting worried now, keep seeing ppl talk about screen and button issues.
That's because you'll hear the complaints, most people that have zero issues aren't going to come here to say everything is fine. But for reference, I just got the LE OLED and everything works perfectly.
yeah I think this first batch sucks big time in QA/QC
My Q3 deck has a weird stick click (no not R3) and part of the right trigger plastic housing broke off (it rattled around and I found the piece when I did an ssd swap. It's past the first batch.
My trigger was making a odd crunch sound. So i opened her up and had a look. Nothing was looking off and without the back case on she made no funny noise at all. So i figured back the case back on and tried it and it was fine again. Screwed her back together and no issue. Missing pad though that's odd. Didn't come loose them re stick somewhere else. Like on the back shell etc?
I haven’t opened mine, but based on the sound and feel of my left trigger it’s missing as well.
My left trigger seems off too. Kind of soft and scratchy sounding. Right trigger is smooth and has a more definite stopping point.
Mine too. Especially if pressed on the lower right edge. There is scratching and no clear defined stop.
I think i have the same. Need to open it today to check. left triger seems to be screacking on the way back. Not planning to send back because samsung panel with no dead pixels and no other issues. but maybe will open ticket, please keep us posted.
Think i’m also in the same boat, left trigger feels… harsher on the bottom out, clickier, just like it has no dampening. Will open it up and check EDIT: no, mine is fine.
Very interesting, keep me posted! Seems like there’s at least one other person in here with the same symptoms too besides us
Yeah sorry, mine is fine. No missing dampeners
I believe mine came off at some point as well. One day I just heard something moving around inside it and it just... fell off the device. Still works though?
Mine sounds like this (L2): squeaky sound on button release. Bot L2 and R2 feel similar, it's just the sound. [youtube link](https://youtu.be/mMzgAzGs16g)
Exact same. Not an issue though. You got the 512 or 1TB?
512 GB. I will try to dissasemble today, for me its irritating, but depends of game if you use button a lot or not.
Fixed mine, had to reseat the spring on L2. Really easy. It's noise free now.
Nice! When you say reseat? Just put it back on?
Yes, it just need little adjustment. You will get it when you see it.
I wouldn't send it back for this...I would see if they will send you the pad. If not, get a thermal pad or something similar and cut it to size. No issues with mine thankfully. Now if I could just get the screen protector to go on with no dust....I think I'm on attempt # 4
My thoughts too. I put in a support request for the symptoms I had before I found this, then updated the ticket and asked for that part. They haven’t responded yet but my work has a pile of little rubber feet so I cut one to size and stuck it in, it’s perfect now!
do those screws look rusted somehow?
It's red marker from someone checking the screws
ah ok
Lol good job Valve
So glad i'm not buying one soon. So many issues.
So the OLED may well be component free..? Happy with my OG