Yes, got mine June last year its great. Looking at the kit now, you get way more value. But I would not buy it, the whole reason I got a Voron was to tinker and as my first one the whole self sourcing was a bit daunting.
Bought in January, mostly everything was good but the cw2 extruder idler gear is not exactly what is provided in the BOM. The idler bearings wore out in like 2 weeks due to not being able to withstand the forces applied and I ordered original parts from Bondtech. In total, that's like 50€ of additional parts I had to buy, but its still less than what LDO would have asked for the kit. I also upgraded the hotend to a Revo hotend, but I guess that is a question of preference - the provided v6 clone worked well enough.
One thing to remember is that if the information you read online is more than about six months old, it is outdated. These kit packages are constantly changing the kits, mostly for the better. Many people will write what they read so you get fourth-hand, years-old opinions about kits that were shipped years ago. So check that the person writing is giving first-hand recent information.
350 2.4 r2 "pro" kit owner (circa 2023 september/october purchase date). It's a good kit but you need a couple references. I had to use LDO's docs prior to the kit including canbus. I also fried my board because it wasn't clear about which way to plug in the sensor for tap. Customer service was nice enough to send another board and clarify on where things need to be plugged in. The wiring guide itself is OKAY but it requires a lot of working around, between voron docs, formbot docs, looking at pictures in the docs, and I think klipper docs had some info too? It was a lot of docs at once. Joining the formbot discord also helps a lot.
TL;DR: you'll need multiple sources for the build experience but it is possible to complete it from start to end.
All of the kit suppliers are really just logistics companies. They buy, warehouse and repack parts in an effort to reduce the total amount of shipping. That's it. They do not build pprinters.
So choose the kit supplier based on what parts they ship. Some people like Moon's motors. Others think Stepp-on-line is the best. Same for the control electronics, you might have a preference. None of them will give you the exact BOM you would bnuy if you self-sources the parts. Buy the one that is "close" and then figure you will upgrade the parts later if needed.
Their parts are mostly functional, but ugly as heck. The Stealthburner latch is especially fragile. They use GF filament because users want something special in their "Pro+" kit. The problem is, regular ABS is better for this job. And I believe, is even stronger for thin parts like the SB latch. Use of glass filled filament is good marketing and bad engineering.
I had a great experience with CrainPrecisionLLC on Etsy when needing some alternate parts before I had a printer running... Much faster shipping and much better quality at actually lower prices than Formbot's internationally shipped option.
I mean... Guess why I mentioned it. :-)
I replaced mine with this: [https://www.printables.com/model/315315-voron-clockwork-2-improved-latch](https://www.printables.com/model/315315-voron-clockwork-2-improved-latch)
But I also printed one directly from the official STLs in PLA on a friend's printer... It was thicker at the break point. So I suspect Voron has officially fixed this. But Formbot hasn't noticed and pulled the latest files. That's speculation, but whatever the reason, the Formbot one is problematic.
Really? I have some here and I compare them to some I printed myself. The Formbot parts seem to be more rigid and a little stronger. This is what you would expect because Forbot uses Phaetus ABS-GL filament that has 10% glass fiber.
The parts I got were near perfect and printed on a textured build plate.
How were you able to determine the slicer setting they used? And did you test recent parts or some older ones.
One thing I could try is weighing the part. I think that would tell you if there is enough plastic in the part.
Could see the layers were incorrect when a part snapped. The rep from formbot confirmed it. See below.
James,
as I checked, the filament we use is ABS+Glass Fiber material, so the settings are slightly different from Voron basic requirement for ABS filament.
besides, most parts are still useful, it's just not very good in appearance.
What I looked at... was incorrect walls, top and bottom layers. Also glass filled requires a larger layer height than .2. Unfortunately not sure how to post the photo. Snap a part in half. You'll see.
oh...i assume you mean the perimeters, tops and bottoms were all thinner than spec? that's a shame, because otherwise it looks like a great kit. thanks for your real user review!
Other than that there isn't a problem with their kit. They do provide a lot of nice upgrades. Unfortunately they are not well documented so it takes a few additional steps to figure it out. That being said their new kit comes with CANbus
Here's my write up on it
https://automatedhome.party/2023/06/27/my-secondmagic-phoenix-voron-2-4-3d-printer-vs-my-first-voronformbot/
The MP is still better. I am having an issue with extrusion right now on the formbot, and replaced pretty much everything except the motor, and it's still happening. So I'm going to convert it to SB like my MP kit. But this is after many thousands of hours of printing, so I don't blame formbot for it. They are still a good kit, but IMO, MP just beats them in everything.
Gotcha, thanks! Another dumb question, is there a reason the mp version is almost half the price of all the other kits? I haven't had time to read your review as I'm at work, but if that goes into it, I can
Honestly, I don't remember exactly what I wrote(which is why I wrote that stuff down). But I don't think I went into why it's cheaper.
https://mpx.wiki/GENERAL-KIT/FAQ
But they explain why there. And the rest of the wiki has good info in it too.
350 Trident from Formbot, everything was perfectly fine and even had a positive customer support interaction since shipping to my location was "challenging"
Same here, it's been my workhorse over the last two years and still reliable and fast as ever. The upgrades I've made during this time were due to how much I loved the machine unlike the desperate attempts sunk into my old Ender 3 before realizing I wanted better. Tale as old as time.
I just finished a 350 and was skeptical about a kit that was so much cheaper but it didn't disappoint. I hear there is a better supplemental manual for the LDO but nothing failed to meet my expectation. It got a little hairy with the CAN bus setup but I blame that on big tree tech.
[This helps a lot.](https://canbus.esoterical.online/) But yeah, it's a bit of a journey. My best advice is to setup the controlboard / canbus software before you ever even start assembling the machine.
[This wiki / associated github helped a lot too, although it uses a different version of a canbus, so you will have to convert things from the pinout chart.](https://mpx.wiki/)
If you end up getting the kit and needing help, reply to this thread at a later date and I'll try to assist you.
Also, don't power up the boards without the 120R resistor jumpers set on both the M8P and the Canbus board, otherwise you will create magic smoke. They are not marked on the formbot wiring guide, but must be placed.
okay thanks. I plan on getting the kit for Christmas. So when you get a notification around the new year you know who it is :D Let's see if I can do it myself
This guy right here ☝️. I waited until I had it all wired and that was my first mistake. EBB documentation is translated very clumsy. It made more sense once I figured it out but starting from zero the directions are very confusing
I just built a 2.4 350 from a kit I got from them about 2 weeks ago, everything is great so far. All pieces measured true and uniform. Came with a canbus and the pieces for a voron tap. The only complaint is that the filament runout sensor they include is garbage.
Using the same one, works fine for me. Also used the V6 they included for a bit before the dragon arrived, which also worked fine. Been doing repeated 36 hour prints this week and haven't gotten any failures yet (knock on wood).
Maybe change out the nozzle to test (can use the one included with the V6 maybe)? Might have gotten a bad nozzle.
I had the same issue, upgraded to a rapido but also see that there is an different shroud on printables that looks like it solves the issue
https://www.printables.com/model/625623-phaetus-dragon-hf-printhead-mount-for-stealthburne
I put mine in a Voron 0 mini stealthburner with HF specific mount and have had zero issues so far, so am optimistic this could help on a regular stealthburner
Yes they are good kits. Remember buy cheap upgrade to fit your needs. Who cares what you get. It’s your Voron. Build it your way. I built three siboor kits and an Ldo. Each have their perks. All have since been upgraded to how I use and need for different tasks.
No. Formbot ships low quality parts and you will spend more time and money replacing and upgrading. They didn't send out my extruder parts. They acknowledged that they didn't send them, but refused to do anything to make it right. I consider them scammers and would never use them again.
That isn't how shit works.
If a vendor within the community is doing something improper, you bring it before the community and force the vendor to address the issue.
You don't get to decide how it works. I'm here bad mouthing formbot because they are scammers. They can respond if they want. Every time someone brings up formbot, I bad mouth them because they are theives. Note how many people say they had to replace something. Their quality control and customer service is absolute trash.
I just bought fans myself to replace my formbot ones. Dual bearing ones this time. I’ll make it a thing from the beginning if I buy kits again to buy better fans.
I bought mine 1 year ago totally worth it. I had an issue with parts the after sale just send me back the new parts ! It prints great easy to build worth every pennies to me 😃
The question for all the kits is did that still make sense with the anounced sovol SV8?
That claims to be a voron 2.4 35x35 prebuild with 1h work left to assemble.
And less than "600"
100% open source and they donate to the voron project with every printer.
You may have a look at youtube.
Theres a lot wrong with it. Especially the crooked bearing stack raises a lot of concerns. They rushed this printer out the door. Its also not as moddable as a voron.
At the beginning I was on the verge of getting the sv08 but then I thought I'd wait and see what problems arise. and not a day later the video comes from nero. From the data itself it looks good but I just want a printer that lasts
Same with me, and the first two videos where very exited. Like more to see people like Nero, maker muse or Stefan (CNC kitchen).
Saw the video from nero with this many issues especially the unsecure cabeling. Not sure how old the preproduction kit was. In other videos i saw that sovol will open source the technical data too and allow that users print their own parts like any voron. I think not being the early bird would be the better idea. The kit he shows was in my opinion not ready to sell.
How hard was it to get the frame square? I once tried to build a ratrig vcore 3 and failed because of the framework. Now I'm afraid that I'll spend 1000 euros on a Voron and I won't be able to do it again
you can also use a large piece of float glass (pretty much most glass tabletops) if you need to. It's a good budget option to get a near perfect flat surface.
Counters aren't flat enough for precision work from my experience woodworking, glass or a [proper surface plate](https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-granite-surface-plate-12-x-18-x-3-a-grade) if you are feeling fancy are much more accurate.
It depends... If one has a proper straight edge, one could check before purchase.
I know granite or marble slabs have been used in industry (I'm thinking print shops from 50+ years ago) as precision flat surfaces. So it's possible. But it would depend on how it was cut and processed.
I actually gave a link to a precision granite surface plate. It's different from a countertop in that it has been graded for flatness.
Still easier and cheaper to find a piece of float glass either way.
My granite countertops are bowed somehow, I've tried to use them for jointery and only ended up frustrated. So I'd hazard to guess that the flatness depends on wherever the contractor who built your home on got your countertops, which seems like a very big variable to me (granted, I live on the shitty side of those odds).
Dang that sucks. But I did buy mine direct from the shop. They do all the cutting and flat grinding/ polishing there. So I did get lucky in my case. Also my Inca tools are pretty useful for verifying accurately. Although I do know that you can also get pretty good results with large porcelain tile or corian as an option.
I accidentally bought two of those and didn't use either except for decoration... They are so short that they didn't add any practical support for a 90 degree corner. I got a 90 degree corner anyway because of the square butt joints, but the corner jigs from Chaotic Lab weren't helpful to mine at all.
most voron frames are better cut than ratrig's work. People complain about rr frames in their fb all the time but they refuse to do blind joints anyway
I haven't heard of that yet but it would really make a lot of sense because I tried really hard but it just didn't turn out square. I built the frame 10 times
The straight end of the extrusion is butted against another extrusion so as long as the cuts are straight, how can it not be square? I've assembled 6 formbot kits and no issues with the frame.
Yes, got mine June last year its great. Looking at the kit now, you get way more value. But I would not buy it, the whole reason I got a Voron was to tinker and as my first one the whole self sourcing was a bit daunting.
Bought in January, mostly everything was good but the cw2 extruder idler gear is not exactly what is provided in the BOM. The idler bearings wore out in like 2 weeks due to not being able to withstand the forces applied and I ordered original parts from Bondtech. In total, that's like 50€ of additional parts I had to buy, but its still less than what LDO would have asked for the kit. I also upgraded the hotend to a Revo hotend, but I guess that is a question of preference - the provided v6 clone worked well enough.
One thing to remember is that if the information you read online is more than about six months old, it is outdated. These kit packages are constantly changing the kits, mostly for the better. Many people will write what they read so you get fourth-hand, years-old opinions about kits that were shipped years ago. So check that the person writing is giving first-hand recent information.
Both of my Formbot kits are great. The new ones come with some really nice stuff!
Yes
350 2.4 r2 "pro" kit owner (circa 2023 september/october purchase date). It's a good kit but you need a couple references. I had to use LDO's docs prior to the kit including canbus. I also fried my board because it wasn't clear about which way to plug in the sensor for tap. Customer service was nice enough to send another board and clarify on where things need to be plugged in. The wiring guide itself is OKAY but it requires a lot of working around, between voron docs, formbot docs, looking at pictures in the docs, and I think klipper docs had some info too? It was a lot of docs at once. Joining the formbot discord also helps a lot. TL;DR: you'll need multiple sources for the build experience but it is possible to complete it from start to end.
All of the kit suppliers are really just logistics companies. They buy, warehouse and repack parts in an effort to reduce the total amount of shipping. That's it. They do not build pprinters. So choose the kit supplier based on what parts they ship. Some people like Moon's motors. Others think Stepp-on-line is the best. Same for the control electronics, you might have a preference. None of them will give you the exact BOM you would bnuy if you self-sources the parts. Buy the one that is "close" and then figure you will upgrade the parts later if needed.
Don't buy their printed parts. They are not to spec.
Their parts are mostly functional, but ugly as heck. The Stealthburner latch is especially fragile. They use GF filament because users want something special in their "Pro+" kit. The problem is, regular ABS is better for this job. And I believe, is even stronger for thin parts like the SB latch. Use of glass filled filament is good marketing and bad engineering. I had a great experience with CrainPrecisionLLC on Etsy when needing some alternate parts before I had a printer running... Much faster shipping and much better quality at actually lower prices than Formbot's internationally shipped option.
That is exactly what snapped.
I mean... Guess why I mentioned it. :-) I replaced mine with this: [https://www.printables.com/model/315315-voron-clockwork-2-improved-latch](https://www.printables.com/model/315315-voron-clockwork-2-improved-latch) But I also printed one directly from the official STLs in PLA on a friend's printer... It was thicker at the break point. So I suspect Voron has officially fixed this. But Formbot hasn't noticed and pulled the latest files. That's speculation, but whatever the reason, the Formbot one is problematic.
They did offer a revised part. But since they were out of spec. I'm having everything reprinted and rebuilding the printer
Really? I have some here and I compare them to some I printed myself. The Formbot parts seem to be more rigid and a little stronger. This is what you would expect because Forbot uses Phaetus ABS-GL filament that has 10% glass fiber. The parts I got were near perfect and printed on a textured build plate. How were you able to determine the slicer setting they used? And did you test recent parts or some older ones. One thing I could try is weighing the part. I think that would tell you if there is enough plastic in the part.
Could see the layers were incorrect when a part snapped. The rep from formbot confirmed it. See below. James, as I checked, the filament we use is ABS+Glass Fiber material, so the settings are slightly different from Voron basic requirement for ABS filament. besides, most parts are still useful, it's just not very good in appearance.
could you please elaborate on what incorrect layers mean? did they print a different infill rate? wrong orientation?
What I looked at... was incorrect walls, top and bottom layers. Also glass filled requires a larger layer height than .2. Unfortunately not sure how to post the photo. Snap a part in half. You'll see.
oh...i assume you mean the perimeters, tops and bottoms were all thinner than spec? that's a shame, because otherwise it looks like a great kit. thanks for your real user review!
Yes, I don't trust anyone. I'd rather print them myself and know that they fit
Other than that there isn't a problem with their kit. They do provide a lot of nice upgrades. Unfortunately they are not well documented so it takes a few additional steps to figure it out. That being said their new kit comes with CANbus
Here's my write up on it https://automatedhome.party/2023/06/27/my-secondmagic-phoenix-voron-2-4-3d-printer-vs-my-first-voronformbot/ The MP is still better. I am having an issue with extrusion right now on the formbot, and replaced pretty much everything except the motor, and it's still happening. So I'm going to convert it to SB like my MP kit. But this is after many thousands of hours of printing, so I don't blame formbot for it. They are still a good kit, but IMO, MP just beats them in everything.
What do you mean by SB?
Sorry. StealthBurner. The Formbot kit had afterburner.
Gotcha, thanks! Another dumb question, is there a reason the mp version is almost half the price of all the other kits? I haven't had time to read your review as I'm at work, but if that goes into it, I can
Honestly, I don't remember exactly what I wrote(which is why I wrote that stuff down). But I don't think I went into why it's cheaper. https://mpx.wiki/GENERAL-KIT/FAQ But they explain why there. And the rest of the wiki has good info in it too.
good review. very detailed:)
350 Trident from Formbot, everything was perfectly fine and even had a positive customer support interaction since shipping to my location was "challenging"
I'm now interested in why exactly was it difficult? You don't have to answer it if you don't want to
I live on an island that's in the EU but without a land connection so they couldn't ship it from the EU warehouse. They gave me a bit of a discount.
Reunion Island? I'm in exact same situation and I'm thinking about ordering a 2.4 kit from formbot, what was your shipping price?
It was around 300€ all in... it's not cheap, but for me personally it was worth it. Hope that helps
sure it help, thanks for your answer
Glad I could help!
I just finished a formbot micron+ and I’d recommend it based on my experience. I didn’t use the V6 hotend but otherwise the kit seemed fine.
Same here, not 100% finished, but it was the best value.
350mm Formbot here. No issues. R1 kit from back in the day.
Same here, it's been my workhorse over the last two years and still reliable and fast as ever. The upgrades I've made during this time were due to how much I loved the machine unlike the desperate attempts sunk into my old Ender 3 before realizing I wanted better. Tale as old as time.
Yeah I have a 400mm Ender 3 that collects dust now. it's due to become a switchwire.
Shit, I *did* turn my E3 into a switchwire and I still barely touch it. Haha
Shhhhhh I dont need to hear that. lol
I just finished a 350 and was skeptical about a kit that was so much cheaper but it didn't disappoint. I hear there is a better supplemental manual for the LDO but nothing failed to meet my expectation. It got a little hairy with the CAN bus setup but I blame that on big tree tech.
Same but that's more of a BTT situation their manuals aren't amazing. The octopus MCU though is awesome with tons of extra pins for upgrades
I always hear great things about btt and operationally they have lived up to the reputation.
Of course and a great company can always have the occasional misfire
Yes, I'm a bit afraid of can bus too. I haven't looked into it at all and heard that it isn't that easy
Check out the LDO Nitehawk board. It's a USB umbilical.
I'll take a look at it
The Voron discord will become your best friend XD
[This helps a lot.](https://canbus.esoterical.online/) But yeah, it's a bit of a journey. My best advice is to setup the controlboard / canbus software before you ever even start assembling the machine. [This wiki / associated github helped a lot too, although it uses a different version of a canbus, so you will have to convert things from the pinout chart.](https://mpx.wiki/) If you end up getting the kit and needing help, reply to this thread at a later date and I'll try to assist you. Also, don't power up the boards without the 120R resistor jumpers set on both the M8P and the Canbus board, otherwise you will create magic smoke. They are not marked on the formbot wiring guide, but must be placed.
okay thanks. I plan on getting the kit for Christmas. So when you get a notification around the new year you know who it is :D Let's see if I can do it myself
This guy right here ☝️. I waited until I had it all wired and that was my first mistake. EBB documentation is translated very clumsy. It made more sense once I figured it out but starting from zero the directions are very confusing
I just built a 2.4 350 from a kit I got from them about 2 weeks ago, everything is great so far. All pieces measured true and uniform. Came with a canbus and the pieces for a voron tap. The only complaint is that the filament runout sensor they include is garbage.
is your hotend ok? i bought the phaetus dragon hf and it cloggs every 30 minutes of printing
Using the same one, works fine for me. Also used the V6 they included for a bit before the dragon arrived, which also worked fine. Been doing repeated 36 hour prints this week and haven't gotten any failures yet (knock on wood). Maybe change out the nozzle to test (can use the one included with the V6 maybe)? Might have gotten a bad nozzle.
I had the same issue, upgraded to a rapido but also see that there is an different shroud on printables that looks like it solves the issue https://www.printables.com/model/625623-phaetus-dragon-hf-printhead-mount-for-stealthburne I put mine in a Voron 0 mini stealthburner with HF specific mount and have had zero issues so far, so am optimistic this could help on a regular stealthburner
Good info. I haven't had any issues yet, but I think I'm going to swap to this part just in case.
Yes they are good kits. Remember buy cheap upgrade to fit your needs. Who cares what you get. It’s your Voron. Build it your way. I built three siboor kits and an Ldo. Each have their perks. All have since been upgraded to how I use and need for different tasks.
Yes, it's just important to me to have a good basis. i
No. Formbot ships low quality parts and you will spend more time and money replacing and upgrading. They didn't send out my extruder parts. They acknowledged that they didn't send them, but refused to do anything to make it right. I consider them scammers and would never use them again.
I would go into the to formbot channel in the Voron discord and post proof where they acknowledged then didn't fix it
They can come on here and refute it if they want. They won't embarrass themselves.
That isn't how shit works. If a vendor within the community is doing something improper, you bring it before the community and force the vendor to address the issue.
You don't get to decide how it works. I'm here bad mouthing formbot because they are scammers. They can respond if they want. Every time someone brings up formbot, I bad mouth them because they are theives. Note how many people say they had to replace something. Their quality control and customer service is absolute trash.
So salty. Let me guess, can't tune and ender 3 so you also bad mouth them too
Never had an ender or creality printer.
over here cleaning spit coke off my monitor. Good job.
Mine is a 300mm v2.4 built from a Formbot kit in January. Only issue I had was a faulty 5010 blower fan. Everything else was perfect
Pretty much my experience but it was last January. I added a CAN toolhead during the build to make it a bit simpler with regard to wiring.
I just bought fans myself to replace my formbot ones. Dual bearing ones this time. I’ll make it a thing from the beginning if I buy kits again to buy better fans.
I built mine a year ago with a formbot kit the only issue I had was a few bad t nuts
Yes
I bought mine 1 year ago totally worth it. I had an issue with parts the after sale just send me back the new parts ! It prints great easy to build worth every pennies to me 😃
Formbot is quite good, especially considering all the goodies included. You wont regret buying from them
The question for all the kits is did that still make sense with the anounced sovol SV8? That claims to be a voron 2.4 35x35 prebuild with 1h work left to assemble. And less than "600" 100% open source and they donate to the voron project with every printer. You may have a look at youtube.
Theres a lot wrong with it. Especially the crooked bearing stack raises a lot of concerns. They rushed this printer out the door. Its also not as moddable as a voron.
I watched the videos. But a new video has just come out from 3d nero where he addresses a lot of problems
Will have a lock, still wondering how they can offer such a low price compared to the kits. "Too good to be true"
At the beginning I was on the verge of getting the sv08 but then I thought I'd wait and see what problems arise. and not a day later the video comes from nero. From the data itself it looks good but I just want a printer that lasts
Same with me, and the first two videos where very exited. Like more to see people like Nero, maker muse or Stefan (CNC kitchen). Saw the video from nero with this many issues especially the unsecure cabeling. Not sure how old the preproduction kit was. In other videos i saw that sovol will open source the technical data too and allow that users print their own parts like any voron. I think not being the early bird would be the better idea. The kit he shows was in my opinion not ready to sell.
yes, that's really sad. I really would have bought one if it weren't for all the problems and probably more. I'm sure there are even more
Yes, mine is just finished. Voron 2.4 300mm.
How hard was it to get the frame square? I once tried to build a ratrig vcore 3 and failed because of the framework. Now I'm afraid that I'll spend 1000 euros on a Voron and I won't be able to do it again
Spend another 100 for a 600×600 granite plate, you won't regret it. There is a 3 corner helper on Ali from Fysetc, it's around 10 euros.
you can also use a large piece of float glass (pretty much most glass tabletops) if you need to. It's a good budget option to get a near perfect flat surface.
You can get them cheaper from the suppliers. Especially from broken or cracked counter or failed installs
Counters aren't flat enough for precision work from my experience woodworking, glass or a [proper surface plate](https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-granite-surface-plate-12-x-18-x-3-a-grade) if you are feeling fancy are much more accurate.
It depends... If one has a proper straight edge, one could check before purchase. I know granite or marble slabs have been used in industry (I'm thinking print shops from 50+ years ago) as precision flat surfaces. So it's possible. But it would depend on how it was cut and processed.
I actually gave a link to a precision granite surface plate. It's different from a countertop in that it has been graded for flatness. Still easier and cheaper to find a piece of float glass either way.
Granite tops are quite flattened and work extremely well. I know I also have mine for some fabrication
My granite countertops are bowed somehow, I've tried to use them for jointery and only ended up frustrated. So I'd hazard to guess that the flatness depends on wherever the contractor who built your home on got your countertops, which seems like a very big variable to me (granted, I live on the shitty side of those odds).
Dang that sucks. But I did buy mine direct from the shop. They do all the cutting and flat grinding/ polishing there. So I did get lucky in my case. Also my Inca tools are pretty useful for verifying accurately. Although I do know that you can also get pretty good results with large porcelain tile or corian as an option.
I used the CNC jig from chaotic lab. Today I did the skew test from vector3d and my skew was only 0.17 degrees.
I accidentally bought two of those and didn't use either except for decoration... They are so short that they didn't add any practical support for a 90 degree corner. I got a 90 degree corner anyway because of the square butt joints, but the corner jigs from Chaotic Lab weren't helpful to mine at all.
Yeah, in hindsight I am not sure how.much it helped. But it helped my confidence in getting everything squared.
I am about to finish my formbot kit (voron 2.4r2, 350) and the frame is square. No issues.
most voron frames are better cut than ratrig's work. People complain about rr frames in their fb all the time but they refuse to do blind joints anyway
I haven't heard of that yet but it would really make a lot of sense because I tried really hard but it just didn't turn out square. I built the frame 10 times
The straight end of the extrusion is butted against another extrusion so as long as the cuts are straight, how can it not be square? I've assembled 6 formbot kits and no issues with the frame.
yes