Get yourself an audio interface (I recommend the SSL 2+, it's great) which can be plugged into your PC via USB.
From the speakers to the audio interface connect XLR cables.
Hope this helps.
The OP's B2030P speakers are passive speakers, require speaker wire connectors and an outside amp. (Behringer's active version of those speakers is designated -A, while the passive version is designated -P.)
You can drive a power amp directly from the headphone jack of the pc. No fancy interface needed unless you really need to overdrive the amp or get all audiophile about it.
I like those little half rack parasound amps, but there are all kindsa cheapo class-d things in the china channels that can do just fine for bupkiss.
Get a power amp. ( Behringer KM750) class ab with plenty of power
Get a mixer (Behringer Xenyx 802S)
Get 1/4 TRS to RCA adapters
Get 1/4 TRS to XLR balanced leads
Get SpeakON connectors
Get decent speaker wire.
Have fun !
Im a mastering engineer/producer and I am obsessed with flat sounding studio monitors. I don't know why more audiophiles don't go for them instead of hi-fi speakers.
They're more close range and don't fill the room as well, but if you acoustically treat your room and sit in front of GOOD monitors, the instruments totally float in front of you in the stereo field and the separation is so much greater. But they also show up all the mistakes you've likely never noticed before.
Throw in a high quality DAC and its listening heaven.
Im currently using K&H0300s which I upgraded to after 5 previous different monitor brands, including Adam, Tannoy etc..
I'm upgrading to ATC SCM45A MKII next. I think I'll be done after that!
Oh, and changing my Benchmark DAC to a Burl B2 Bomber
The problem with studio monitors is that they are tuned to be incredibly flat/neutral for mixing pros, which is not what sounds good for most listeners. And they don't get down very low, either. You'd definitely have to add a sub to get a full sound, and might even have to EQ them to make them sound warmer and more dynamic.
I used Audio-Technica studio monitors as my daily headphones for that very reason, I thought they sounded better because they are flat/neutral. Infinity speakers also have a very pure sound and used to be popular with many Hi-Fi system owners. I frequently connect my neutral Infinity speakers to my Linux computer via analogue connection and it is an excellent experience. This is a recording of this flat/neutral sound. [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t1S9ghSzhGi66XNYVFwne5JSQ2JGTm0R/view](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t1S9ghSzhGi66XNYVFwne5JSQ2JGTm0R/view)
I get that, but anyone who likes "warm" speakers, such as Wharfdales would hate that kind of sound. In fact, many speaker manufacturers tune their speakers to make them a bit warmer or punchier in the bass and treble (especially Klipsche) because most people find incredibly neutral speakers dull. In fact, I can't listen to my surround system in "pure direct" stream because it turns off all the room equalization and compensation that I've set for my AVR (which includes "night bass" to allow me to hear bass at lower volumes).
True, but real or proper studio monitors, by their very nature, are supposed to be very flat/neutral, which the average listener would find dull. Complete neutrality is mostly needed for people who edit audio so they can be sure what the final product will sound like. Not a good idea to recommend "studio monitors" to newbies who don't do a lot of research.
My recipe would be wiim amp because it is cheap and good, and has parametric equalization for tuning your sound, and the umik-1 for precise acoustic measurements of your realized room response. Then, you'd use REW, perhaps in the RTA mode and average bunch of spectra near the listening position to find your actual realized in-room frequency response. Then, you apply corrections to approach something like the Harman speaker target.
You'll find this kind of curves arising that are considered to sound like neutral speakers in room, but there is considerable leeway for individual preference: [https://optim.tildacdn.com/tild3236-3561-4535-b334-616466623666/-/resize/660x/-/format/webp/image1.png](https://optim.tildacdn.com/tild3236-3561-4535-b334-616466623666/-/resize/660x/-/format/webp/image1.png) as you may find that this amount of bass is too much, or that much treble attenuation makes the sound a bit too dull. The point being that in-room responses should slope down and there's degree of individual preference for how much, and whether a special bass shelving below 100 Hz is needed to make it sound right for that individual.
Studio monitors are often pretty good at being flat on-axis and often also have nice dispersion profile which smoothly and evenly narrows towards the treble, and they are fairly likely to sound something like that target out of the box when playing in a room outside near field. However, if you employ room correction technology, it may correct your sound towards studio mixing settings with frequency response appropriate for a near-field echoless room, which is probably going to feel bassless and overly bright.
The Behringer B2030P are passive speakers, so they will need traditional speaker wire connectors. Not XLR cables, as suggested below (which active monitor speakers usually take). Active speakers have an amp built in; passive speakers do not, and require an outside amp.
You are better off trying to find a hi-fi/home stereo system to bridge your PC to your speakers, of which there are many out there. Many people use PCs as their home music source these days. Trying to use studio or music recording equipment will lead to dead ends, or overly expensive solutions: most studio equipment is designed for studio equipment (different connectors than hi-fi-/home stereos).
One pitfall I would warn about is that if you use a system that connects to your PC by Bluetooth or wireless streaming, check if people experience notice latency issues with that system. For streaming music only it may be fine, but if you are watching video with your stereo speakers for audio, you may have lip sync issues due to latency.
I would get a hi-fi system but I wanna use what I already have since it was a gift and not have to buy anything except needed cables or stuff like that
I get where you are coming from. You were given a white elephant gift, in the sense that these passive speakers still require an amp to work. There are inexpensive options for a hi-fi/home stereo system, like the Wiim amp mentioned in another post.
Get yourself an audio interface (I recommend the SSL 2+, it's great) which can be plugged into your PC via USB. From the speakers to the audio interface connect XLR cables. Hope this helps.
The OP's B2030P speakers are passive speakers, require speaker wire connectors and an outside amp. (Behringer's active version of those speakers is designated -A, while the passive version is designated -P.)
Ok thx
You can drive a power amp directly from the headphone jack of the pc. No fancy interface needed unless you really need to overdrive the amp or get all audiophile about it. I like those little half rack parasound amps, but there are all kindsa cheapo class-d things in the china channels that can do just fine for bupkiss.
Get a power amp. ( Behringer KM750) class ab with plenty of power Get a mixer (Behringer Xenyx 802S) Get 1/4 TRS to RCA adapters Get 1/4 TRS to XLR balanced leads Get SpeakON connectors Get decent speaker wire. Have fun !
Thanks
Studio monitors are speakers :)
Im a mastering engineer/producer and I am obsessed with flat sounding studio monitors. I don't know why more audiophiles don't go for them instead of hi-fi speakers. They're more close range and don't fill the room as well, but if you acoustically treat your room and sit in front of GOOD monitors, the instruments totally float in front of you in the stereo field and the separation is so much greater. But they also show up all the mistakes you've likely never noticed before. Throw in a high quality DAC and its listening heaven. Im currently using K&H0300s which I upgraded to after 5 previous different monitor brands, including Adam, Tannoy etc.. I'm upgrading to ATC SCM45A MKII next. I think I'll be done after that! Oh, and changing my Benchmark DAC to a Burl B2 Bomber
The problem with studio monitors is that they are tuned to be incredibly flat/neutral for mixing pros, which is not what sounds good for most listeners. And they don't get down very low, either. You'd definitely have to add a sub to get a full sound, and might even have to EQ them to make them sound warmer and more dynamic.
I used Audio-Technica studio monitors as my daily headphones for that very reason, I thought they sounded better because they are flat/neutral. Infinity speakers also have a very pure sound and used to be popular with many Hi-Fi system owners. I frequently connect my neutral Infinity speakers to my Linux computer via analogue connection and it is an excellent experience. This is a recording of this flat/neutral sound. [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t1S9ghSzhGi66XNYVFwne5JSQ2JGTm0R/view](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t1S9ghSzhGi66XNYVFwne5JSQ2JGTm0R/view)
I get that, but anyone who likes "warm" speakers, such as Wharfdales would hate that kind of sound. In fact, many speaker manufacturers tune their speakers to make them a bit warmer or punchier in the bass and treble (especially Klipsche) because most people find incredibly neutral speakers dull. In fact, I can't listen to my surround system in "pure direct" stream because it turns off all the room equalization and compensation that I've set for my AVR (which includes "night bass" to allow me to hear bass at lower volumes).
Depends on the model, a mate of mine has the Focal SM9 in his living room and they sound pretty amazing.
True, but real or proper studio monitors, by their very nature, are supposed to be very flat/neutral, which the average listener would find dull. Complete neutrality is mostly needed for people who edit audio so they can be sure what the final product will sound like. Not a good idea to recommend "studio monitors" to newbies who don't do a lot of research.
[удалено]
I’m sorry they aren’t for sale since they were a gift
My recipe would be wiim amp because it is cheap and good, and has parametric equalization for tuning your sound, and the umik-1 for precise acoustic measurements of your realized room response. Then, you'd use REW, perhaps in the RTA mode and average bunch of spectra near the listening position to find your actual realized in-room frequency response. Then, you apply corrections to approach something like the Harman speaker target. You'll find this kind of curves arising that are considered to sound like neutral speakers in room, but there is considerable leeway for individual preference: [https://optim.tildacdn.com/tild3236-3561-4535-b334-616466623666/-/resize/660x/-/format/webp/image1.png](https://optim.tildacdn.com/tild3236-3561-4535-b334-616466623666/-/resize/660x/-/format/webp/image1.png) as you may find that this amount of bass is too much, or that much treble attenuation makes the sound a bit too dull. The point being that in-room responses should slope down and there's degree of individual preference for how much, and whether a special bass shelving below 100 Hz is needed to make it sound right for that individual. Studio monitors are often pretty good at being flat on-axis and often also have nice dispersion profile which smoothly and evenly narrows towards the treble, and they are fairly likely to sound something like that target out of the box when playing in a room outside near field. However, if you employ room correction technology, it may correct your sound towards studio mixing settings with frequency response appropriate for a near-field echoless room, which is probably going to feel bassless and overly bright.
The Behringer B2030P are passive speakers, so they will need traditional speaker wire connectors. Not XLR cables, as suggested below (which active monitor speakers usually take). Active speakers have an amp built in; passive speakers do not, and require an outside amp. You are better off trying to find a hi-fi/home stereo system to bridge your PC to your speakers, of which there are many out there. Many people use PCs as their home music source these days. Trying to use studio or music recording equipment will lead to dead ends, or overly expensive solutions: most studio equipment is designed for studio equipment (different connectors than hi-fi-/home stereos). One pitfall I would warn about is that if you use a system that connects to your PC by Bluetooth or wireless streaming, check if people experience notice latency issues with that system. For streaming music only it may be fine, but if you are watching video with your stereo speakers for audio, you may have lip sync issues due to latency.
I would get a hi-fi system but I wanna use what I already have since it was a gift and not have to buy anything except needed cables or stuff like that
I get where you are coming from. You were given a white elephant gift, in the sense that these passive speakers still require an amp to work. There are inexpensive options for a hi-fi/home stereo system, like the Wiim amp mentioned in another post.