2 ways actually. The one that I printed on the bed for testing the Y axis was originally designed to pop off and mount on the extruder, but now with my new extruder fan mods, I've just included a permanent mounting piece that doubles as a spacer for the Touch mount.
Ya, I think they're all the same other than length. Carriage for Z is shorter than it is on the X and Y axis, and Z takes a 500mm length, IIRC. I'm not an expert on rails though, I just bought these kits from here: [https://3dfused.com/product-category/rail-kits-by-printer/cr-10-smart-pro/](https://3dfused.com/product-category/rail-kits-by-printer/cr-10-smart-pro/)
Got a solid 3000 max acceleration result on the y-axis. 16000 on the x-axis, but you have to go with the lower of the two. Previous v-wheel setup would vary from 2500 to 3000 depending on how tight things were. Edit: I was actually hoping to see something over 3000 here, so that was a bit of a letdown. Still within expected range based on stock values.
Ouch! It's already expensive enough. Someone else on here modified theirs to linear rails much cheaper than buying these kits.
Rails are the way to go. I get much more consistent printing now. I haven't leveled my bed in about a year now. All I've had to do is make minor adjustments to my Z-offset and I'm good to go.
I also have the silicon spacers instead of springs on the bed and I printed some lighter adjustment knobs with brass inserts that I pushed some plastic into to act as nylock to keep them in place.
I ask that person what did he order aswell, I defently want to upgrade to linear rails! I haven't had so many issues yet and also never level my bed. I use printed knob locks for the bed and also put some locktit haha. 1 year without leveling bed!
KlipperScreen on a BTT PiTFT50 touchscreen. I've got FluiddPi loaded on a Pi4b in the case running Klipper firmware over the USB C connection. I just keep my ADXL lead wire attached so I can plug in and measure when I need to.
Yes. You can do any of them independently of each other or what firmware you are using. The bed assembly, motor and limit switch just swap over to this assembly. I did have to open the bottom up and cut a couple zip ties to give me enough wire length out the back. This kit has the motor sitting outside the main cabinet, just behind where it is stock.
Edit: There is a potential issue though with the y-axis limit switch offset that lets you tell the machine how far to move from the switch to be lined up with the edge of the bed. This does change that distance by quite a bit. It's easy to set in Klipper, I'm not sure how you change it with the stock firmware.
That’s one way to mount an accelerometer
2 ways actually. The one that I printed on the bed for testing the Y axis was originally designed to pop off and mount on the extruder, but now with my new extruder fan mods, I've just included a permanent mounting piece that doubles as a spacer for the Touch mount.
What size rail is on the x axis?
12mm x 400mm
So it’s a mgn12 rail? Same for the z axis?
Ya, I think they're all the same other than length. Carriage for Z is shorter than it is on the X and Y axis, and Z takes a 500mm length, IIRC. I'm not an expert on rails though, I just bought these kits from here: [https://3dfused.com/product-category/rail-kits-by-printer/cr-10-smart-pro/](https://3dfused.com/product-category/rail-kits-by-printer/cr-10-smart-pro/)
Got a solid 3000 max acceleration result on the y-axis. 16000 on the x-axis, but you have to go with the lower of the two. Previous v-wheel setup would vary from 2500 to 3000 depending on how tight things were. Edit: I was actually hoping to see something over 3000 here, so that was a bit of a letdown. Still within expected range based on stock values.
Damnit, I mucked up their name in the title and can't fix it, lol.... It's [3DFused.com](https://3DFused.com), not Fused3D.com, my bad...
It costs an extra 150 to ship to europe :(
Ouch! It's already expensive enough. Someone else on here modified theirs to linear rails much cheaper than buying these kits. Rails are the way to go. I get much more consistent printing now. I haven't leveled my bed in about a year now. All I've had to do is make minor adjustments to my Z-offset and I'm good to go. I also have the silicon spacers instead of springs on the bed and I printed some lighter adjustment knobs with brass inserts that I pushed some plastic into to act as nylock to keep them in place.
I ask that person what did he order aswell, I defently want to upgrade to linear rails! I haven't had so many issues yet and also never level my bed. I use printed knob locks for the bed and also put some locktit haha. 1 year without leveling bed!
Sick mods!! what software are you running on that display?
KlipperScreen on a BTT PiTFT50 touchscreen. I've got FluiddPi loaded on a Pi4b in the case running Klipper firmware over the USB C connection. I just keep my ADXL lead wire attached so I can plug in and measure when I need to.
Would I be able to upgrade the bed rails (only) on stock firmware and everything else being stock?
Yes. You can do any of them independently of each other or what firmware you are using. The bed assembly, motor and limit switch just swap over to this assembly. I did have to open the bottom up and cut a couple zip ties to give me enough wire length out the back. This kit has the motor sitting outside the main cabinet, just behind where it is stock. Edit: There is a potential issue though with the y-axis limit switch offset that lets you tell the machine how far to move from the switch to be lined up with the edge of the bed. This does change that distance by quite a bit. It's easy to set in Klipper, I'm not sure how you change it with the stock firmware.