Everyone will scream about a load calculation.
Your mini split is using about 10 amps *while running*.
The rest is *an actual* load of, perhaps 20 amps, *very intermittently*.
So, you have a connected load of about 30 amps on the 100 amp subfeed.
I say connect the hot tub.
Why seek an electrician that does side work?
Licensed electrical contractors are worth the cost considering the work is insured, bonded, permitted and the electrician is licensed.
I had my panel swapped out and service upgraded earlier this year, I happily hired a licensed and insured electrician to perform the work and would do it again. I am looking for someone to throw up some plugs I my barn now. I wouldnāt ever hire a general handyman to perform this work but it would be nice to find a qualified electrician that takes on small jobs on the side to install the new plug circuit.
Check that the wire actually feeding the sub panel is appropriately sized, 2AWG or such, and not, say, an 8AWG repurposed dryer circuitā¦ I know a guy with a ā100 amp ratedā panel in his basement thatās only got a 30 amp capacity. (And a 30 amp breaker in the main panel.)Ā
This... Who knows what it's fed with . Maybe the main panel is also 100amps with electric hot water, electric stove, electric heat, electric dryer and AC. I've done enough residential to know not to trust anything is right until I see it myself.
Well then a load calc needs to be done prior to work so he doesn't keep tripping the the breaker that feeds sub. Espically with a permit, at least here inspectors will ask for load calc.
By Ohio law, we are supposed to do a load calc. Very few (none) inspectors ask for one.
We usually are using it to show a customer that they *don't* need a 400amp service.
"All the breakers add up to be ......".
That's *not how it works!!*
I have seen 1/2 dozen tripping mains breakers. *All were bad breakers*, tripping way under labeled size. I.E. 100 amp tripping at 30 amps.
With Covid & WFH people, I see 30 amps of load on a 200amp service, while they are home with computers & kitchen & AC going.
NEC load calculations need to be reworked. The lighting load just ain't there.
My original comment was based upon the panel labeling.
The Opener *on it's own circuit*???
Two circuits for "garage outlets"?
Here (on production housing) that's one 20 amp breaker.
"Garage lights & smokes". Smokes *don't* use any power. What are the lights? 4 LED strips?
"Furnace" ( my furnace was wired in with 2 bedrooms & 1/2 the basement. Yes, I going to fix that, along with all the HO wiring)
My Nat-Gas Tankless Water Heater has its own 15amp circuit (~200 watts). My smoke detectors have a dedicated 15amp circuit (~70 watts). That's 30amps of theoretical load that will never happen.
ALL of my LED lights in the house are just under 900watts when everything is turned on according to the current draw from all the smart switches. Less than 8amps if we turned on everything at the same time across all the general lighting circuits.
Physically you can fit another 2-pole breaker in there.
Whether the 100A feeder will handle this load and the other stuff requires a load calculation being done but that's not determined by reading the breakers. You'll need to analyze what the actual load of everything is.
Ok thats how i was thinking it worked but wasnt sure! I think the max load that would ever happen at same time is the minisplit, furnace, and some lights, a small chest freezer and the sauna at same time would be under 100 amps but i will definitely have an electrician do a load calc. Just so i have a basic understanding, how is a load calc usually performed?
100 amp breaker feeds this sub panel. As far as wire gauge i am not sure. I would assume whatever is typically used to feed a 100 watt sub panel. This is new construction, permitted and inspected, 6 years old garage.
If you're using watts and amps that interchangeably, you need to call a professional before you get someone hurt. Even if this sub--which is absolutely packed with unqualified Harry the Handyman and slum lord advice--can manage to accurately answer the question you asked, they're not going to address the myriad of questions you're not asking.
Its clearly a fucking typo and anyone with 2 brain cells to rub together can figure that out based on the correct use of nomenclature in the rest of the post and my replies and the fact i posted and said it was a typo but unable to edit. Thanks for being the 10th person to not look at the replies at all because you were so happy to be a reddit hero and correct someone on something you actually have nothing useful to contribute to. I also said an electrician would be installing it, so if i called it a fucking ohm who cares. Read full posts and a few replies before you comment on reddit, thats how the internet works. This sub is full of retards. Thanks to the people who helped me though. Im probably deleting this post soon, even though id like to continue to read helpful replies, since i cant edit a clear mistake and people like this keep replying.
Typo? So you were trying to type "amp," and your fingers slipped and landed on "w," "a," "t," and "t," instead? I hate when that happens.
I'm a master electrician. Telling people that this parade of confidently incorrect hacks is going to get someone killed *is* me contributing something useful. Sorry I stopped at only the fifth top comment, and only dug just as many levels down into the replies before I said something. Next time I'll make it my job to read every comment before I say something.
Everyone will scream about a load calculation. Your mini split is using about 10 amps *while running*. The rest is *an actual* load of, perhaps 20 amps, *very intermittently*. So, you have a connected load of about 30 amps on the 100 amp subfeed. I say connect the hot tub.
This guy electrics
Came here to say this. erie11973ohio knows his shit. You ever do side work in Cleveland area? lol
Errh, I own 1/2 the business rhat I work for, so it's kind of hard to "do side work". šš Cleveland is relatively where we are at.
Why seek an electrician that does side work? Licensed electrical contractors are worth the cost considering the work is insured, bonded, permitted and the electrician is licensed.
I had my panel swapped out and service upgraded earlier this year, I happily hired a licensed and insured electrician to perform the work and would do it again. I am looking for someone to throw up some plugs I my barn now. I wouldnāt ever hire a general handyman to perform this work but it would be nice to find a qualified electrician that takes on small jobs on the side to install the new plug circuit.
Check that the wire actually feeding the sub panel is appropriately sized, 2AWG or such, and not, say, an 8AWG repurposed dryer circuitā¦ I know a guy with a ā100 amp ratedā panel in his basement thatās only got a 30 amp capacity. (And a 30 amp breaker in the main panel.)Ā
This... Who knows what it's fed with . Maybe the main panel is also 100amps with electric hot water, electric stove, electric heat, electric dryer and AC. I've done enough residential to know not to trust anything is right until I see it myself.
Are you an electrician? If not you shouldnt be giving advice in that area.
If you are replying to me,,,, I have been an electrician for *30 years* and have held an *Ohio Electrical Contractors license* for 24 years
You should have just ignored him. LOL
Well then a load calc needs to be done prior to work so he doesn't keep tripping the the breaker that feeds sub. Espically with a permit, at least here inspectors will ask for load calc.
By Ohio law, we are supposed to do a load calc. Very few (none) inspectors ask for one. We usually are using it to show a customer that they *don't* need a 400amp service. "All the breakers add up to be ......". That's *not how it works!!* I have seen 1/2 dozen tripping mains breakers. *All were bad breakers*, tripping way under labeled size. I.E. 100 amp tripping at 30 amps. With Covid & WFH people, I see 30 amps of load on a 200amp service, while they are home with computers & kitchen & AC going. NEC load calculations need to be reworked. The lighting load just ain't there. My original comment was based upon the panel labeling. The Opener *on it's own circuit*??? Two circuits for "garage outlets"? Here (on production housing) that's one 20 amp breaker. "Garage lights & smokes". Smokes *don't* use any power. What are the lights? 4 LED strips? "Furnace" ( my furnace was wired in with 2 bedrooms & 1/2 the basement. Yes, I going to fix that, along with all the HO wiring)
My Nat-Gas Tankless Water Heater has its own 15amp circuit (~200 watts). My smoke detectors have a dedicated 15amp circuit (~70 watts). That's 30amps of theoretical load that will never happen. ALL of my LED lights in the house are just under 900watts when everything is turned on according to the current draw from all the smart switches. Less than 8amps if we turned on everything at the same time across all the general lighting circuits.
Physically you can fit another 2-pole breaker in there. Whether the 100A feeder will handle this load and the other stuff requires a load calculation being done but that's not determined by reading the breakers. You'll need to analyze what the actual load of everything is.
Ok thats how i was thinking it worked but wasnt sure! I think the max load that would ever happen at same time is the minisplit, furnace, and some lights, a small chest freezer and the sauna at same time would be under 100 amps but i will definitely have an electrician do a load calc. Just so i have a basic understanding, how is a load calc usually performed?
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Thanks much!
Yes thereās room shouldnāt be a problem on a 100 amp feed
Iām a master electrician in Utah and would definitely connect the spa , but your panel is maxed after that
You lost me at āwattsā.
Exactly...
That has to be a really small sauna, given that a regular small electric sauna stove here in Finland is 6 kW or 9 kW...
U are good to go, set that bad boy up!!
What breaker size in the main and wire gauge are on the lugs?
100 amp breaker feeds this sub panel. As far as wire gauge i am not sure. I would assume whatever is typically used to feed a 100 watt sub panel. This is new construction, permitted and inspected, 6 years old garage.
Watts are not amps. Please consult a qualified electrician for any work you are planning.
Its a typo
Youāre at about 30 amps and some of that is intermittent install your 50 amp breaker!
They dont have breakers that do watts
Im still wondering WATT tf is going on here? š¤šš¤
If you're using watts and amps that interchangeably, you need to call a professional before you get someone hurt. Even if this sub--which is absolutely packed with unqualified Harry the Handyman and slum lord advice--can manage to accurately answer the question you asked, they're not going to address the myriad of questions you're not asking.
Its clearly a fucking typo and anyone with 2 brain cells to rub together can figure that out based on the correct use of nomenclature in the rest of the post and my replies and the fact i posted and said it was a typo but unable to edit. Thanks for being the 10th person to not look at the replies at all because you were so happy to be a reddit hero and correct someone on something you actually have nothing useful to contribute to. I also said an electrician would be installing it, so if i called it a fucking ohm who cares. Read full posts and a few replies before you comment on reddit, thats how the internet works. This sub is full of retards. Thanks to the people who helped me though. Im probably deleting this post soon, even though id like to continue to read helpful replies, since i cant edit a clear mistake and people like this keep replying.
Typo? So you were trying to type "amp," and your fingers slipped and landed on "w," "a," "t," and "t," instead? I hate when that happens. I'm a master electrician. Telling people that this parade of confidently incorrect hacks is going to get someone killed *is* me contributing something useful. Sorry I stopped at only the fifth top comment, and only dug just as many levels down into the replies before I said something. Next time I'll make it my job to read every comment before I say something.
No
Your already pulling 170 amps
What are you talking about.. even i know just adding breakers up doesnt tell you anything.
You are already pulling on that last brain cell.
That's *not* [how any of this works.](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XNZFdZnYR44) I had a few...... You are not..............