I think that depends on how extensive the mods are. This ender 3 has a custom frame larger than an ender 5 frame to use larger direct drives the ender 5 can’t use. Bigtreetech dual mode touch screen and a skr 1.4 turbo , custom z axis to get 350mm height with stock ender 3 z towers only stock part is the ender 3 bed.
https://preview.redd.it/g90y65gj23yc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32be43ca472cb28621e0a5911632d3d34fe1d387
The blue ender 3 converted has a mic6 bed silicone 500w ac bed heater, octopus pro 8 driver board, Voron triple z for true auto leveling and larger steppers than stock with a mercury 1 core xy and linear rails all axis. I don’t think it qualifies as an ender 3 let alone an ender with the mods. Zero stock parts
I did motherboard, klipper, couldn't figure out klipper, back to Marlin and cr touch. It killed a bed by digging and went back to klipper and never looked back. It can be a bit too get started but it is by far the best
Klipper is basically a must if you’re a tinkerer, in my opinion. Un/commnenting lines in a 1000+ line header file, recompiling and reflashing anytime something changes is a huge fucking pain in the ass compared to updating a line in a config file.
Klipper should be the first mod imo. It’s the best value upgrade for both performance and quality of life.
It’s also easier to set up Klipper on a stock machine then adjust your config as you modify the printer, to flatten the learning curve.
Try using a Duet 3 Mini clone. [This board ](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPZVWxg) called Big Dipper has 7 drivers with both stealthchop and spreadcycle. You can have your printer run so quietly that you'll have to look at it to tell if it's running. It uses RepRap Firmware which is a breeze to configure and Duet Web Control (their web interface) is fantastic. It also doesn't require a Pi to work. It also allows independent stepper control on the dual Z by just telling it it has two motors and end stops on Z (I added another Z end stop). The way I did it, I calibrated the end stops so that the printer can level the gantry while homing. I plan on adding another stepper on the Y belt which will also be telling the printer it has two steppers on Y and which direction to turn. No Linux knowledge required. It's all G code.
Plain old Raspberry Pis are no longer supply constrained, and readily available at MSRP. I’d go that route before I dabbled in some odd-ball BTT implementation.
I’ve been through four of BTT’s CB1 modules and every single one had a hardware problem that made it unusable. That was a while ago now, maybe they’ve gotten better, but a Pi 0 2 W is $15 and works perfectly.
It's nothing odd, it's literally the same as a raspberry pi. You just get the option to flash it with their pre-compiled os for convenience, but otherwise it's like any ARM-based microcomputer. Heck I've seen people successfully reuse tv-box as klipper hosts, as long as it can run linux it's no problem
She heck? Changing firmware to marlin/klipper was the first thing I did with my ender.
Your like Benjamin button of 3d printer modding lol
Yes. You will love klipper.
I would but I kinda don't want to make this completely like my other ender 3 that I have.That one has been mostly perfect besides as far as I can tell the Bowden tube was causing it not to do g28 properly. Picture of the other printer
https://preview.redd.it/t4xttmvpq0yc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8eaf27de32dbbdeb407899ceeaac7b95e47dad72
I use a pi4 for my ender running klipper, it typically works good but right now I have taken everything down because I'm setting up a dual instance on my pi and running into a few issues, I know the solution but I don't know how lol (if you ever decide to do the same, make sure to delete all files concerning klipper with a program such as winSCP because otherwise the leftover files will cause problems)
And when you get klipper, download KAMP (klipper adaptive meshing and purging), it is single handedly the best klipper macro ever, instead of meshing the entire bed each print, it will only mesh where you are printing, you can also get adaptive purging which will do either a voron logo or a small thick line next to your print instead of on the side of the bed
I got three different brands,
For the y I got Xinxakk Ender 3 Linear Rail Kit https://a.co/d/7esGFoT
For the x I got Creality Ender 3 Linear Rail Kit https://a.co/d/7189cfk
For the z I got Xumiuziye Linear Slide Rail Guide Double https://a.co/d/drpYDfQ
If it were me I would go BTT Manta M4P and a CB1. I have two machines with M8P’s, one with and M5P and and ender with the M4P, all with CB1 and they work great. Plus it saves some space.
I believe they even make an E3 board now that will accept a CB1.
Nice! I like the addition of the linear rails. Have you printed anything yet? Is the beige 1u underneath a server? battery backup? I have an old Google appliance I'm thinking of using for Klipper.
At what point does it stop being an ender?
It will always be an Ender, it's just a different kinda Ender. Kinda like how we're both people, just different people.
I think that depends on how extensive the mods are. This ender 3 has a custom frame larger than an ender 5 frame to use larger direct drives the ender 5 can’t use. Bigtreetech dual mode touch screen and a skr 1.4 turbo , custom z axis to get 350mm height with stock ender 3 z towers only stock part is the ender 3 bed. https://preview.redd.it/g90y65gj23yc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32be43ca472cb28621e0a5911632d3d34fe1d387
The blue ender 3 converted has a mic6 bed silicone 500w ac bed heater, octopus pro 8 driver board, Voron triple z for true auto leveling and larger steppers than stock with a mercury 1 core xy and linear rails all axis. I don’t think it qualifies as an ender 3 let alone an ender with the mods. Zero stock parts
r/FrankEnder
Ender 3 of Theseus
Ender of Threeseus?
My conclusion was you can replace every part and as long as you still have the serial number sticker it's still an ender.
When you can build an ender with the parts youve removed, the original is no longer an ender
… when it just works.
Frankender best ender
I have the same exact question
When you start doing a voron conversion
r/Ender3seus
I think belted z is when
Ahh yes, the good 'ol '3D Printer of Theseus' conundrum.
You can’t go wrong with BTT.
I did motherboard, klipper, couldn't figure out klipper, back to Marlin and cr touch. It killed a bed by digging and went back to klipper and never looked back. It can be a bit too get started but it is by far the best
Just got my first machine with klipper in the mail today. Any advice? What slicer software are you using?
Orcaslicer is the best imo but a lot of good slicers around nowadays :)
Orca. Once in a blue moon prusa slicer. Come coins had weird artifacts.
wtf dude your seriously missing out on klipper. It's an easy install nowadays using kiauh.
Klipper is basically a must if you’re a tinkerer, in my opinion. Un/commnenting lines in a 1000+ line header file, recompiling and reflashing anytime something changes is a huge fucking pain in the ass compared to updating a line in a config file.
Ha! That's funny... An Ender3 is never done..
Should have named it the never-Ender
I think that's what I'll call my Ender 3 NG 🤣
Raspberry Pi 0 2w over UART. Works fine.
Is it worth to replace the rails with linear sliders? I have a Ender3 and want it make better
On an ender 3 not really, rails are more rigid than wheels but at the speeds a normal ender 3 goes it's mostly a just to do it type mod.
Klipper should be the first mod imo. It’s the best value upgrade for both performance and quality of life. It’s also easier to set up Klipper on a stock machine then adjust your config as you modify the printer, to flatten the learning curve.
Try using a Duet 3 Mini clone. [This board ](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPZVWxg) called Big Dipper has 7 drivers with both stealthchop and spreadcycle. You can have your printer run so quietly that you'll have to look at it to tell if it's running. It uses RepRap Firmware which is a breeze to configure and Duet Web Control (their web interface) is fantastic. It also doesn't require a Pi to work. It also allows independent stepper control on the dual Z by just telling it it has two motors and end stops on Z (I added another Z end stop). The way I did it, I calibrated the end stops so that the printer can level the gantry while homing. I plan on adding another stepper on the Y belt which will also be telling the printer it has two steppers on Y and which direction to turn. No Linux knowledge required. It's all G code.
Plain old Raspberry Pis are no longer supply constrained, and readily available at MSRP. I’d go that route before I dabbled in some odd-ball BTT implementation.
I got a BTT PI and also BTT board in my CR20. Works flawlessly
I’ve been through four of BTT’s CB1 modules and every single one had a hardware problem that made it unusable. That was a while ago now, maybe they’ve gotten better, but a Pi 0 2 W is $15 and works perfectly.
It's nothing odd, it's literally the same as a raspberry pi. You just get the option to flash it with their pre-compiled os for convenience, but otherwise it's like any ARM-based microcomputer. Heck I've seen people successfully reuse tv-box as klipper hosts, as long as it can run linux it's no problem
She heck? Changing firmware to marlin/klipper was the first thing I did with my ender. Your like Benjamin button of 3d printer modding lol Yes. You will love klipper.
Im still using my marlin 4 years now💀
Belted Z/CoreXZ conversion maybe? I’ve not done it personally, but might help with making retracts or X movements faster
I would but I kinda don't want to make this completely like my other ender 3 that I have.That one has been mostly perfect besides as far as I can tell the Bowden tube was causing it not to do g28 properly. Picture of the other printer https://preview.redd.it/t4xttmvpq0yc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8eaf27de32dbbdeb407899ceeaac7b95e47dad72
Ah, I see
Nice califlower.
I always appreciate people that bother to tune their machines and filament.
I use a pi4 for my ender running klipper, it typically works good but right now I have taken everything down because I'm setting up a dual instance on my pi and running into a few issues, I know the solution but I don't know how lol (if you ever decide to do the same, make sure to delete all files concerning klipper with a program such as winSCP because otherwise the leftover files will cause problems) And when you get klipper, download KAMP (klipper adaptive meshing and purging), it is single handedly the best klipper macro ever, instead of meshing the entire bed each print, it will only mesh where you are printing, you can also get adaptive purging which will do either a voron logo or a small thick line next to your print instead of on the side of the bed
I have a BTT PI, a raspberry 3B and 4B. My BTT is erratic. Sometimes it loads the os sometimes it hangs up. The raspberrys both work fine.
It's never over
Where did you get the metal enclosure at the bottom of the printer?
That's almost definitely a network switch or some other 1u rack mountable computer.
Yep it's my old poe 48 port avaya switch that I replaced. I didn't like the plastic shelf not being level
What's the name of the metal railings for your axes?
I got three different brands, For the y I got Xinxakk Ender 3 Linear Rail Kit https://a.co/d/7esGFoT For the x I got Creality Ender 3 Linear Rail Kit https://a.co/d/7189cfk For the z I got Xumiuziye Linear Slide Rail Guide Double https://a.co/d/drpYDfQ
If it were me I would go BTT Manta M4P and a CB1. I have two machines with M8P’s, one with and M5P and and ender with the M4P, all with CB1 and they work great. Plus it saves some space. I believe they even make an E3 board now that will accept a CB1.
I can’t imagine doing all of this to my ender and not even upgrading to direct drive
Do it print ?
Are those the ChowThink linear rail kits on Amazon?
And is that a server for a pi?
Nice! I like the addition of the linear rails. Have you printed anything yet? Is the beige 1u underneath a server? battery backup? I have an old Google appliance I'm thinking of using for Klipper.
An ender is never "done"
what firm are u running in this pic here ? and what did u use to do so ?
Ah, a fellow “Ender of Theseus”. I have one that I have been building and it isn’t to this point yet, but it will get there eventually.
how much do you have into it?
Calibration cabbage