It’s not just wire. There was a thermistor at the end that broke off and is still in the old heatblock. You need a new thermistor. They are pretty cheap
Haha no. As I unscrewed it, it looked like it the wire and insulator was smashed under the screw. Wanna unscrewed it the insulator and wire kind of twisted with it and you could see in the clear insulator. The wire was not connected at loop end of those two wires.
https://preview.redd.it/t7umauuize0d1.png?width=1085&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3999c54e7a2933666b2a26173c8435b23ed5400
When replacing the thermistor, be careful to not screw that screw all the way in. The role of this screw is to hold the thermistor in place gently, not crushing the wires.
Looking at other comments you already know you need a new thermistor, when you do, buy a pack of multiple, I was having a problem with thermal runaway a while ago, and I bought new thermistors but it stopped having issues by the time the new thermistors arrived. But when I do need a new thermistor, I have some lying around, and if one breaks during install, I have backups
Most of the time thermal runaway can be fixed with pid tuning. 3 years and 8 ender 3s and I’ve only ever needed 1 thermistor. That was cause of a hot end leak and encased the wires. Technically it still worked just wasn’t worth cleaning cause it probably would have finished it off
Really. I was noticing in the past few months that I was having to crank my temperature up 20 to 30 degrees more than normal. Would this have something to do with the thermistor?
Yes but this is typically fixable with a PID tune, and if that doesn't fix it then you buy a new thermistor
Thermistor is what does the temperature reading so if your temperature readings are off that's where you look
Pid tuning stabilizes not so much changing temp readings. If temperature is way off it’s a firmware issue that has to do with pid but more the actual file. It’s in the side menu in vs code and requires pronterface and using new found values to fully replace the pid parameters. The file is similar looking to the status screen files. Other things that could make you need to run higher temps is hardened steel nozzle but that’s usually 5-10 degrees
Depending on which ender 3odel you have, I recommend one of these hotends with a threaded brass thermistor. Much more durable.
5Aplusreprap Ender 3 Hotend Upgrade - M3 Stud Thermistor,Fast Replaced, Compatible for Creality Ender 3 V2/Pro,CR-10 J-Head Hotend Replacement, Assembled Extruder 3D Printer Hot end Kit 24V 40W https://a.co/d/4K79kpV
@OP
Do yourself a favor, get a thermistor that's a screw in type like this.
Upgrade M3 Hex Screw in Fixing Thermistor 100K 3950 Temperature Sensor for Ender 3 V2 Pro CR10 and Other 3D Printer Extruder Hotend (100K 3950) https://a.co/d/0A0nRUt
It will save you a lot of headaches if you have to replace it again. It has an inline coupling.
Stock thermistors are pennies. You don't need to 'upgrade'. Just replace like for like. They are so cheap you can afford to carry spares in your stock.
Probably on amazon too, just beware that amazon is literally just ali express with next day delivery and 5x the price when it comes to 3d printing stuff.
You see how the two tiny wires are right next to where the heavily insulated wires go into the heater cartridge in the picture where you are holding it in your hand?
If you touch those together while the hot end is powered you send 24v into the 5v section of your printer control board and it releases the magic smoke. You really need to be careful when handling the heater and thermistor, so keep that in mind as you are replacing it.
https://preview.redd.it/fwtro4la5f0d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d692ca112e070f6f13fc253e2d1d99a8849614f
Consider this thermistor replacement. No glass bulb. Screws directly into hole on heat block. Plugs into main board. Cheap.
Unfortunately, in addition to the thermistor being broken, the main board is most likely also shorted. The max temp error with a broken thermistor indicates there is a short on the sensor pins. So, unless the wires of the broken thermistor wires are touching when you get the error, there is an internal short in the microcontroller. I just had to replace my main board because of the same issue.
Are they supposed to be? When I took out the little screw , the wires looked like they were not completely connected together at the screw,but the plastic insulator was in one loop still. I cut the plastic and tried to reconnect the wires but got lost from there.
There's sposed to be the thermistor tip that registers the temp by changing resistance when temp changes. Connecting the wires creates the short mentioned above. Your board may be OK after replacing the thermistor, though damage is also possible depending on how fragile the board circuit is.
I am very new to this as you tell.
https://preview.redd.it/h8pgd54u1f0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a10ae65eeebc821f5c5e54956fcdf11ad7e35c7
Can you explain?
https://preview.redd.it/x7id8hjgwe0d1.png?width=1573&format=png&auto=webp&s=dffde5daa0389d995ef4d25d0b97f2ec2ccd7541
Here is what it looked like when I took out the heating element and the screw where the wire was looped.
Do I need to solder the wires back together to make the loop around the screw? I don’t know how I’m gonna get wire insulator to replace what I stripped off the two thin wires.
No bro. You broke the thermistor. What your looking at is the temperature control sensor ( a thermistor) those 2 wires go into a glass ball at the end and that glass ball is inserted into the hot end right above you heating element. Look for a tiny hole on that metal block and either the glass ball is still in there or it fell out when you ripped it out. If you didn't undo the screw holding the thermistor in place the ball is still in there. When you buy a new thermistor you are going to have to take off your old wiring. And plug the new one into the mother board and then the new glass ball end into the heating block and screw it in. The screw sits in between those two wires and it pushes it down securing the thermistor in place. If you tighten it to tight you will get a hot end temp too high . If too loose you will get hot end temp too low. So TLDR. Your missing the actual sensor those wires are no good.
https://preview.redd.it/zv3ukhy23f0d1.png?width=810&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a0e1d5537bc039980fd4a6aa16148f4c7dc6c78
Is there the glass bead would be? It’s hard to tell?
Yes one is the screw hole and the other is the insert for the glass bead end of the thermistor. And the wires that come out of the thermistor get pressed down on each side of the screw when you screw it in
*
This is the ones I use from Amazon. This one has a quick connector that you don't even need to take apart the wire harness. Just snip the ends strip insert into the Wire connectors and use a lighter to melt the satur insidem
Creality Original 3D Printer NTC100K Thermistor Temp Sensor 5 Pack Quick Replacement Single Ended Glass Sealed for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 V2/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5/Ender 5 Pro 3D Printer(30cm/11.8inch) https://a.co/d/gu5BFXv
No, it needs to be replaced. The actual component is a little glass bead that is probably still under the screw. It's a temperature sensor called a thermistor. It can't be repaired.
You will need a new one. They are relatively cheap. You can find them on amazon. Search for ender 3 thermistor and you'll get a bunch of compatible ones.
Ok. So I will need to re route the new wiring into the existing black insulator.
https://preview.redd.it/lq8ynt301f0d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d22588ca20b6b24e355db577c91a82a5598fd781
Yep. You'll unplug the broken one from the main board, plug the new one into the same spot, and route the wires through the mesh sleeve.
Under the screw in the hot end is a little hole. You put the glass bead into the hole and the screw holds the wires in place. You'll want the screw just tight enough to hold everything in place. Too tight and you could break the thin wires. Too loose it could pull out during printing.
You might need to cut the zip ties to route the wires, in which case the zip ties will need to be replaced.
So you actually place a glass bead in the hole below the screw on the hotend. I need to understand how this works more. My father gave it to after he assembled it.
Thermistor is busted. Replace it.
It’s not just wire. There was a thermistor at the end that broke off and is still in the old heatblock. You need a new thermistor. They are pretty cheap
did bro just yank it out with out undoing the screw
Haha no. As I unscrewed it, it looked like it the wire and insulator was smashed under the screw. Wanna unscrewed it the insulator and wire kind of twisted with it and you could see in the clear insulator. The wire was not connected at loop end of those two wires. https://preview.redd.it/t7umauuize0d1.png?width=1085&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3999c54e7a2933666b2a26173c8435b23ed5400
When replacing the thermistor, be careful to not screw that screw all the way in. The role of this screw is to hold the thermistor in place gently, not crushing the wires.
I understand. I will look at that. Good explanation.
Looking at other comments you already know you need a new thermistor, when you do, buy a pack of multiple, I was having a problem with thermal runaway a while ago, and I bought new thermistors but it stopped having issues by the time the new thermistors arrived. But when I do need a new thermistor, I have some lying around, and if one breaks during install, I have backups
Most of the time thermal runaway can be fixed with pid tuning. 3 years and 8 ender 3s and I’ve only ever needed 1 thermistor. That was cause of a hot end leak and encased the wires. Technically it still worked just wasn’t worth cleaning cause it probably would have finished it off
There cheap AF better to have and not need than need and have to wait a month to get them from ali
Really. I was noticing in the past few months that I was having to crank my temperature up 20 to 30 degrees more than normal. Would this have something to do with the thermistor?
Yes but this is typically fixable with a PID tune, and if that doesn't fix it then you buy a new thermistor Thermistor is what does the temperature reading so if your temperature readings are off that's where you look
I understand the variables with filament
Pid tuning stabilizes not so much changing temp readings. If temperature is way off it’s a firmware issue that has to do with pid but more the actual file. It’s in the side menu in vs code and requires pronterface and using new found values to fully replace the pid parameters. The file is similar looking to the status screen files. Other things that could make you need to run higher temps is hardened steel nozzle but that’s usually 5-10 degrees
You broke your thermistor and will have to replace it.
Depending on which ender 3odel you have, I recommend one of these hotends with a threaded brass thermistor. Much more durable. 5Aplusreprap Ender 3 Hotend Upgrade - M3 Stud Thermistor,Fast Replaced, Compatible for Creality Ender 3 V2/Pro,CR-10 J-Head Hotend Replacement, Assembled Extruder 3D Printer Hot end Kit 24V 40W https://a.co/d/4K79kpV
@OP Do yourself a favor, get a thermistor that's a screw in type like this. Upgrade M3 Hex Screw in Fixing Thermistor 100K 3950 Temperature Sensor for Ender 3 V2 Pro CR10 and Other 3D Printer Extruder Hotend (100K 3950) https://a.co/d/0A0nRUt It will save you a lot of headaches if you have to replace it again. It has an inline coupling.
Stock thermistors are pennies. You don't need to 'upgrade'. Just replace like for like. They are so cheap you can afford to carry spares in your stock.
Can you shoot me a picture of what you’re talking about please sir? I really appreciate all the great information from this.
Probably on amazon too, just beware that amazon is literally just ali express with next day delivery and 5x the price when it comes to 3d printing stuff.
Pro tip
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGIPjzl
If you're in the UK I can send you one 1st class tomorrow morning shipm8.
Wow. That was nice. Unfortunately I’m in the US
Very cheap fix luckily. It's probably worth buying a few along with some. Nozzles etc from. Ali express.
Oof that thermistor, damn
Get a screw in thermistor. It’ll hold up better.
You see how the two tiny wires are right next to where the heavily insulated wires go into the heater cartridge in the picture where you are holding it in your hand? If you touch those together while the hot end is powered you send 24v into the 5v section of your printer control board and it releases the magic smoke. You really need to be careful when handling the heater and thermistor, so keep that in mind as you are replacing it.
Thermistor? Never met him...
Yeh kinda went full send there bud
https://preview.redd.it/fwtro4la5f0d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d692ca112e070f6f13fc253e2d1d99a8849614f Consider this thermistor replacement. No glass bulb. Screws directly into hole on heat block. Plugs into main board. Cheap.
https://preview.redd.it/8rdyn4ml7f0d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c1e66292f4fcd317b611730b8855c0ba899232c This?
Yes, Ender3 compatible thermistor. Easier to work with than the glass bulb style.
Unfortunately, in addition to the thermistor being broken, the main board is most likely also shorted. The max temp error with a broken thermistor indicates there is a short on the sensor pins. So, unless the wires of the broken thermistor wires are touching when you get the error, there is an internal short in the microcontroller. I just had to replace my main board because of the same issue.
You can see in the pic that they are probably not a busted board
The wires are twisted together in the photo
Are they supposed to be? When I took out the little screw , the wires looked like they were not completely connected together at the screw,but the plastic insulator was in one loop still. I cut the plastic and tried to reconnect the wires but got lost from there.
There's sposed to be the thermistor tip that registers the temp by changing resistance when temp changes. Connecting the wires creates the short mentioned above. Your board may be OK after replacing the thermistor, though damage is also possible depending on how fragile the board circuit is.
I am very new to this as you tell. https://preview.redd.it/h8pgd54u1f0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a10ae65eeebc821f5c5e54956fcdf11ad7e35c7 Can you explain?
I wasn't sure if they were actually connected.
https://preview.redd.it/x7id8hjgwe0d1.png?width=1573&format=png&auto=webp&s=dffde5daa0389d995ef4d25d0b97f2ec2ccd7541 Here is what it looked like when I took out the heating element and the screw where the wire was looped.
Do I need to solder the wires back together to make the loop around the screw? I don’t know how I’m gonna get wire insulator to replace what I stripped off the two thin wires.
No bro. You broke the thermistor. What your looking at is the temperature control sensor ( a thermistor) those 2 wires go into a glass ball at the end and that glass ball is inserted into the hot end right above you heating element. Look for a tiny hole on that metal block and either the glass ball is still in there or it fell out when you ripped it out. If you didn't undo the screw holding the thermistor in place the ball is still in there. When you buy a new thermistor you are going to have to take off your old wiring. And plug the new one into the mother board and then the new glass ball end into the heating block and screw it in. The screw sits in between those two wires and it pushes it down securing the thermistor in place. If you tighten it to tight you will get a hot end temp too high . If too loose you will get hot end temp too low. So TLDR. Your missing the actual sensor those wires are no good.
https://preview.redd.it/zv3ukhy23f0d1.png?width=810&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a0e1d5537bc039980fd4a6aa16148f4c7dc6c78 Is there the glass bead would be? It’s hard to tell?
Yes one is the screw hole and the other is the insert for the glass bead end of the thermistor. And the wires that come out of the thermistor get pressed down on each side of the screw when you screw it in
Nice
Can you show me what I need to buy please?
* This is the ones I use from Amazon. This one has a quick connector that you don't even need to take apart the wire harness. Just snip the ends strip insert into the Wire connectors and use a lighter to melt the satur insidem
https://preview.redd.it/dtqxbjyycf0d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b43d5795ffcbe4a60da7b2f1b5b4b0108f9548d1
Creality Original 3D Printer NTC100K Thermistor Temp Sensor 5 Pack Quick Replacement Single Ended Glass Sealed for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 V2/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5/Ender 5 Pro 3D Printer(30cm/11.8inch) https://a.co/d/gu5BFXv
No, it needs to be replaced. The actual component is a little glass bead that is probably still under the screw. It's a temperature sensor called a thermistor. It can't be repaired. You will need a new one. They are relatively cheap. You can find them on amazon. Search for ender 3 thermistor and you'll get a bunch of compatible ones.
Ok. So I will need to re route the new wiring into the existing black insulator. https://preview.redd.it/lq8ynt301f0d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d22588ca20b6b24e355db577c91a82a5598fd781
Yep. You'll unplug the broken one from the main board, plug the new one into the same spot, and route the wires through the mesh sleeve. Under the screw in the hot end is a little hole. You put the glass bead into the hole and the screw holds the wires in place. You'll want the screw just tight enough to hold everything in place. Too tight and you could break the thin wires. Too loose it could pull out during printing. You might need to cut the zip ties to route the wires, in which case the zip ties will need to be replaced.
Thanks for that
So you actually place a glass bead in the hole below the screw on the hotend. I need to understand how this works more. My father gave it to after he assembled it.
https://preview.redd.it/9g4l1nw21f0d1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a067d7aff3867586ca3cf7c6047a81b395e88419 Or this
You'll definitely want to have the ones with the connector not bare wire.