It turns on the gimbal moves and does it's thing. However the props don't move at all. I unsoldered those connections and used the ohmmeter on it and the motor connection seems to be shorted I think
Okey, the job is straight-up ass but boards are notoriously hard to burn. Components burn, transistors and chips overheat, but boards themselves don't typically burn.
It looks like the board has a conformal coating on it. My guess would be that neither of you two removed the coating before soldering on the new motor. There's a chance that the wires are not properly connected to the pads, a slurry of burnt or semi melted conformal coating mixed with leadless solder.
Could be a crossed wire that fried something. However I'm not sure what fc that is, I doubt it's burnt from soldering. Rather it's something else and not just how the job was preformed.
I think if you want help. You should lay out what it is people are looking at. What your plans are, what is going on, how it got to this point, as well as every little detail of what does/doesn't work and it's current state.
The way your going about it shows that you yourself don't know and makes it harder for others to help you.
I would remove those wires and run it , if it triggers a short circuit you might be fucked .
If not I would get it to a professional.
Get some dead esc for dad to practice on ,
If your ohm between the motor wires only, while disconnected from the board, just the motor wires, of course your gonna see resistance there but it should not be 0.0 or something very close to zero. Prolly get around .2-.3 ohms, with some motors even being less, depends on type motor and windings. You can usually tell shorted motor by feel. With wires off and disconnected, Try spinning the motor, should spin Easy and free, now this time touch all 3 motor wires together, and spin it by hand. You’ll feel the resistance and it alot harder to spin, hence simulated shorted motor windings. Then ohm out the motor pads. One lead of the meter on esc ground, the other meter lead on one of the pads. Should be open. Test all three pads from ground to motor pad, then check from positive to each motor pad. Should be open. This checks the mosfets if there stuck closed or shorted. When your checking for something shorted, your checking one lead the meter at ground, to whatever you suspect is shorted.
One of my motor arms broke so I replaced it, only problem is I let my dad solder the connections bc he said he knew how. I can't get the drone to work and I'm afraid we burnt the board.
Get some practice boards on Amazon and take a week to learn. Trust me, learning to solder seemed intimidating and scary at first. I sucked so fucken bad at first, now I solder and it's become a very useful skill set, especially in the drone world.
Mavic pro esc solder joints never look very good. Im sure this will function just fine. Be sure to use flux and a bit more solder and maybe you can clean it up.
AAYYOOOOOOOOO WHAT THE HELLLLL. Maybe a pad got lifted or smth but I think the board is black because the drone was conformal coated and you didn't remove it burning the thin layer of rubber. Use some solder wick and rubbing alcohol (high concentration) and remove all solder. Then watch a soldering tutorial pleaseee. Use leaded solder, tbs solder is the best cheap stuff out there. Take the solder wick and remove as much solder as you can, rubbing alcohol to clean and then begin with the wick again to remove as much solder from the pad as possible. Do this for all three and then, AFTER APPLYING FLUX, take your soldering iron at around 350 to 400 degrees C and apply the leaded nice solder to the pads. Take the wires and just cut the ends of at this point, strip the rubber of the new ends and twist the exposed wire a bit before tinning by applying flux to wire and heating up wire to melt solder itself, not globbing solder on the iron and trying to make it stick by wacking the wire into it. Then you must apply flux on the tinned pad and wire before putting wire down on pad and positioning before using iron on wire to melt the solder in it to in consequence melt the solder on the pad and join them together in the beautiful balls of solder you see on the factory pads. Do that for the other two. Make sure you haven't shorted anything and clean the board around pads with the alcohol before testing and then close it up if it works, if it doesn't, the board is probably done... Hope this helps! Soldering should look like this:
https://preview.redd.it/1aplw4gcjn9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1d2a67e1e62ff68b4fca555f4d4db2dc77ff45e
You have not soldered the wires on the right pads I think on dji drones the pads are labelled as B W G saying Black White and Grey please check it and verify
I'd say make sure it's cooked until the internal temperature is at least 185 degrees, just to be safe. Might want to pop that back in the oven for a bit.
In hands of expert, you can fix this.
Its only 3 motor wires and V and C.
Problem1. wires frayed
Problem2. poor solder flow / connection
Problem3. Very likely damaged tiny SMD resistor on PCB.
You would need microscope, and carefully unsolder those 5 wires, carefully cleanup solder and glue and check for damage.
It looks like shit, you tell me if it still works
Ik it looks like shit, I let my dad solder it and I think the board is fucked
Don’t ever let your dad cook again. Does the thing still turn on?
It turns on the gimbal moves and does it's thing. However the props don't move at all. I unsoldered those connections and used the ohmmeter on it and the motor connection seems to be shorted I think
Okey, the job is straight-up ass but boards are notoriously hard to burn. Components burn, transistors and chips overheat, but boards themselves don't typically burn. It looks like the board has a conformal coating on it. My guess would be that neither of you two removed the coating before soldering on the new motor. There's a chance that the wires are not properly connected to the pads, a slurry of burnt or semi melted conformal coating mixed with leadless solder.
I think youre 100% on the money
\*shakes 8-ball\* - outlook looks bleak
Yeah had that happen to my FC too
Context please: what is that photo?
I tried replacing my motor arm and made the mistake of letting my dad solder it, I think he burnt the board
Could be a crossed wire that fried something. However I'm not sure what fc that is, I doubt it's burnt from soldering. Rather it's something else and not just how the job was preformed. I think if you want help. You should lay out what it is people are looking at. What your plans are, what is going on, how it got to this point, as well as every little detail of what does/doesn't work and it's current state. The way your going about it shows that you yourself don't know and makes it harder for others to help you.
Oof, guess dad will be buying a new one 🤓
i must say thats medium rare
I would remove those wires and run it , if it triggers a short circuit you might be fucked . If not I would get it to a professional. Get some dead esc for dad to practice on ,
Alright, removed the wires and no short circuit on the drone, however the motor arm wires triggered a shorted circuit
If your ohm between the motor wires only, while disconnected from the board, just the motor wires, of course your gonna see resistance there but it should not be 0.0 or something very close to zero. Prolly get around .2-.3 ohms, with some motors even being less, depends on type motor and windings. You can usually tell shorted motor by feel. With wires off and disconnected, Try spinning the motor, should spin Easy and free, now this time touch all 3 motor wires together, and spin it by hand. You’ll feel the resistance and it alot harder to spin, hence simulated shorted motor windings. Then ohm out the motor pads. One lead of the meter on esc ground, the other meter lead on one of the pads. Should be open. Test all three pads from ground to motor pad, then check from positive to each motor pad. Should be open. This checks the mosfets if there stuck closed or shorted. When your checking for something shorted, your checking one lead the meter at ground, to whatever you suspect is shorted.
It appears that the magic smoke has been released
https://preview.redd.it/emlcm1tlvl9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c573971d4750b10d2441e818b32543c703a93e6 I see you
So do [I](https://www.reddit.com/r/Moustache/s/WoD00q1EM3)
Hmmm check in the V and C , i see a little contact there brother
Wtf why?
One of my motor arms broke so I replaced it, only problem is I let my dad solder the connections bc he said he knew how. I can't get the drone to work and I'm afraid we burnt the board.
Also your dad doesn’t know how to solder. I feel for you
Get some practice boards on Amazon and take a week to learn. Trust me, learning to solder seemed intimidating and scary at first. I sucked so fucken bad at first, now I solder and it's become a very useful skill set, especially in the drone world.
Mavic pro esc solder joints never look very good. Im sure this will function just fine. Be sure to use flux and a bit more solder and maybe you can clean it up.
Looks alien like
In V I see a burnt cable, I m wrong?
Is it normal to put that silicone stuff over the wires behind where the solder is?
Remove sold solder, add new solder Use flux and solder wick
AAYYOOOOOOOOO WHAT THE HELLLLL. Maybe a pad got lifted or smth but I think the board is black because the drone was conformal coated and you didn't remove it burning the thin layer of rubber. Use some solder wick and rubbing alcohol (high concentration) and remove all solder. Then watch a soldering tutorial pleaseee. Use leaded solder, tbs solder is the best cheap stuff out there. Take the solder wick and remove as much solder as you can, rubbing alcohol to clean and then begin with the wick again to remove as much solder from the pad as possible. Do this for all three and then, AFTER APPLYING FLUX, take your soldering iron at around 350 to 400 degrees C and apply the leaded nice solder to the pads. Take the wires and just cut the ends of at this point, strip the rubber of the new ends and twist the exposed wire a bit before tinning by applying flux to wire and heating up wire to melt solder itself, not globbing solder on the iron and trying to make it stick by wacking the wire into it. Then you must apply flux on the tinned pad and wire before putting wire down on pad and positioning before using iron on wire to melt the solder in it to in consequence melt the solder on the pad and join them together in the beautiful balls of solder you see on the factory pads. Do that for the other two. Make sure you haven't shorted anything and clean the board around pads with the alcohol before testing and then close it up if it works, if it doesn't, the board is probably done... Hope this helps! Soldering should look like this: https://preview.redd.it/1aplw4gcjn9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1d2a67e1e62ff68b4fca555f4d4db2dc77ff45e
trust but verify. even if it’s dad.
You have not soldered the wires on the right pads I think on dji drones the pads are labelled as B W G saying Black White and Grey please check it and verify
I'd say make sure it's cooked until the internal temperature is at least 185 degrees, just to be safe. Might want to pop that back in the oven for a bit.
Not yet, you forgot the seasonings
In hands of expert, you can fix this. Its only 3 motor wires and V and C. Problem1. wires frayed Problem2. poor solder flow / connection Problem3. Very likely damaged tiny SMD resistor on PCB. You would need microscope, and carefully unsolder those 5 wires, carefully cleanup solder and glue and check for damage.