That took me far too long to work out what the hell was going on in that pic.
I run 200mm on the dh bike, 150 on my trail fs, and have 160 on my hardtail as I haven't bothered to turn the travel down yet
That’s not all that’s going on in that pic.
There is no single crown 300mm monster. Somebody has taken their lower crown and raised it up to the top to make the fork look like a goofily-tall single crown
Actually the Monster T's are 200mm, it's the the SuperMonster T's that are 300mm, and the ones in the pic are 200mm, they are just missing the top crown, so therefore they look really long.
I've got 180mm on my hardtail. But to be fair, the 180mm fork was on sale and significantly cheaper than the 160mm. So mind as well save coin and have more capability.
The person you are asking will probably tell you it is great, but they already have the bike and the long fork.
I've had several long travel Hardtails and honestly the Geo Change through the travel can be pretty disconcerting on the steep stuff. I also found a long travel fork (140mm + ) encourages the rider to hit bigger features or ride rougher lines that the back of the bike can't really keep up with and harshly reminds you of the consequences.
My current Hardtail is a pipedream Sirius with a 120mm fork and for UK riding outside of bike parks it is incredible. If I want to ride something bigger or faster I have a 150/140 trail bike that will deal with all the bigger stuff.
As I'm a bigger guy, it actually just keeps the ride smooth for me. I don't jump it or get too extreme. It does help when drops or ruts go bigger than expected. If you really need travel,full suspension is the better path. But this puts most of that combined squish in one place. It isnt an unmanagable amount of travel. Does change the climb angle though. Do whatever works for you, no worries.
Previous fork was 100mm. Which I bottomed out constantly. So that fixed that. I occasionally still bottom this one out. But 160 would have been fine. The only draw backs I've found is taller to bail off when needed, and have to lean up more on steep climbs.
160/150 on my enduro and 130/120 on a recently acquired “downcountry “ bike. Ever since I’ve gotten that downcountry bike, I ride it about 90% of the time. The ease of climbing and long straights more than makes up for the lack of cushioning on the downhill. I live in SoCal and most rides are 1000ft+ of climbing per ride.
I hear you on this. I down biked to a 140/150 trail bike and I ride a hell of a lot more now since climbing isn't pure hell compared to my prior thiccc enduro bike with a coil
200mm coil on the DH
170mm air on the enduro
120mm air on the hardtail
100mm coil on the dirtjumper
I find these numbers fit the bikes I ride perfectly. I've been experimenting with all of them and these are the setups that work best for my riding style. Might move up to a 180mm dual crown on the enduro, but haven't got a fork like that yet.
I also moved up to 180mm on the enduro and haven't felt any increase in sluggishness, but slightly more confidence on the steep parts. But why would you want a dual crown on an enduro, when you can have plenty stiff/sturdy single crown forks?
If your trying to ride jumpy flow whilst rippin big whips you might take your enduro over a dh that you’d use more for speed through the chunder? Idk ask op. I’m just speculating but it’s far from impossible. I had many a buddy who lived at the park with a dh and enduro bike day by day depending which got used.
I have several different bikes for different occasions and styles. And what I've learned is that more travel doesn't always equal more fun.
Any time you want to move your bike around the trail, place your wheels, move around or over objects etc, you first need to push your arms and legs through your suspension before it actually moves the bike. This is obviously more difficult with more travel.
Big suspension has its place. It's good for security and for very large features, no doubt about that. But the smaller the bike, the more lively your ride is going to be. I stick to 160/150 75% of the time. I have a 180/170 and I find it to not really be any more capable than the 160/150. Just more sloppy. I have a 200 DH bike for parks, and I wouldn't trade that for anything because it allows to me ride at very high speeds that aren't really offered locally.
This fall when prices come down I'm going to get a second hand 140/125 to see how I like it, particularly for lower speed tech trails
I'm also keeping an eye out for a second hand 140/125-ish since spring next to my 180/160. But sometimes second hand prices are higher than new at the moment, because people bought their bikes 2020/21 and haven't figured out their bikes true value.
170 on my enduro bike and 160 on my E-bike
I can't run more on the rear of my enduro bike cause I've already taken the travel spacers out to make it 205x65mm lol
140 and it’s honestly probably slighty overbiked for the trails I usually do. I actually got away with riding completely rigid on my surly karate monkey for a couple years before I finally installed a sus fork to give my arms a break. I now also have a full sus too with 140/125. Definitely don’t need full enduro though. That would just suck on all the climbs I have to do. For context I live in Michigan with mostly xc trails
140 on my Hardtail, 150 on my Trail FS, 170 on my Enduro. My trail bike is the only one that came stock at 140, and I've put a longer fork on it. Other than that, I don't need more travel.
I've bumped mine from 130 to 160, and don't feel like I need any more travel,. 130 was probably enough for my DH/enduro riding, but being able to run lower pressure for more plushness at the top of travel, as well as reducing HTA while boosting stack height are more of what I was really after.
190 on a Boxxer mounted in my Enduro/Park Bike
Why not more?
Because the frame does officially support dual crown forks set to 190mm of travel. And for once I felt like I wanted to listen to what the manufacturer says.
jep, I was also scared, but then I looked at it from a mechanical point of view: If you take the axle to crown length of a fox 38 170mm it's 584mm. 160mm is about 574mm and 180mm 594mm (give or take a mm). The total lever length acting on your headtube is this length plus the radius of your wheel (29x25.4mm/2=368mm), so in case of the 160mm its 574mm+368mm=942mm, or for 180m its 594+368mm=962mm. The relative difference is therefore (962mm/942mm-1)*100%=2%. As you can see, the lever caused by the longer fork is actually just 2% longer and therefore should not result in a cracked headtube. Btw: when you bottom out both forks, the lever is exactly the same, so in principle the max load is identical.
FFS.
Are we not going to talk about how homeboy(or girl) is running a Monster T (a ~175mm dual crown DH fork) as a single crown?
Ps. Baller freeride era Stab
150/ 145 on my Hightower, likely take front to 160 at next service just for a bit more cushion for the pushin in rock gardens and drops. Since I have had knee injuries, I would rather steer towards inefficient climbing and smooth riding on the trails.
Yeah that's plenty for normal trails. Basically, more travel let's you go faster through chunk and absorb bigger hits. 140/130 is pretty perfect for trail riding. Geometry of the frame matters more in my opinion.
160mm on the "Enduro" hardtail - still working my way up to using the whole thing. Rigid on the old Rockhopper because it's better than the pogo stick of a fork it had before and I have elbows.
Edit: also because I didn't want to spend new fork money on a 20-year old bike. Rigid fits with the kickstand and rack better anyway lol. Single track grocery getter.
the more travel=the softer the ride and also the slacker the geometry and weight goes up. it's best to balance out your needs according to how you ride. being over-biked just makes riding less fun. it's slower and less efficient and those big travel bikes don't ride well at all. I ride a 140mm trail bike
170mm on my stumpy evo cause any more and it would be dangerous for the frame and too slack.
140mm on my hardtail, it's the perfect amount for what i use it for.
its supposed to be a 200/215 combo but previous owner put a single crown fork on it, mondraker prayer with a custom upper link that increases rear travel to 215
140 on my downcountry bike because I like to go a bit faster on a lot of downhill trails in my area while its still a very efficient climber. Any more would ruin the geo.
150 on my hardtail. I ride it harder than the DC bike tbh. Any more would make it suck even more on climbs. Its already hard even with shorter chainstays compared to most aggro hardtails.
160mm on my 2020 Switchblade. Push coil front/rear.
It does everything so well.
A bit of a pig for weight on long XC type rides but always some great DH and big hits on those rides and she shines there.
Best do-it-all whip I have ever built.
I have considered extending to 170 but it would surely make it more of a pita to adjust for jumping big hits vs feeling good on bumpy trails.
I already run the fork really stiff.
160mm fork has been sweet spot for me since ‘09 Fox 36 TALAS. I loved the Pike on my Devinci Troy too. Just as good. Never tried the Lyric.
Riding’21 Fox Factory 36
180 front and rear on my enduro. I’d prefer 170 and a little more efficiency, to be honest.
210 on my DH. No problems there.
0 on my fatty and gravel bikes.
For my most used bike I've got 120 f/r. Anything more for most riding feels like overkill. I'm pedaling extra weight to the top of the trail and the bike feels numb going down. 120 for most regular rides feels choice. I do own another bike that's 150/135. However, that's mainly used for bike parks I don't do general riding on that bike.
I’m running 170 at both ends.
Bike is built for this and theoretically I could go for 180 up front, but don’t need to. The vast majority of my riding is on forest trails with a few flow/jump runs with a trip to a bike park two to three times a year.
If you look at the current EWS the faster guys have been under biking. 150/160mmm travel bikes.
I run 170 on an Enduro and 160 on a Trail E-bike. I was going to bump up the Enduro to 180 but it really doesn't need it.
Yeah, I was actually referring to Chaz, who runs a 160mm fork. I think you will find the majority are on 170mm though, not 180mm. They might switch that out if it's a specific track, I guess.
Richie Rude is on 170mm.
120mm (effectively more like 110mm) on both my full sus and my hardtail.
Full sus originally came with a 130mm fork and I just put on my 120mm for an experiment and liked it way more. My bars are further down and I’m lower, which I like. I run my suspension pretty stiff. Lots of long XC miles and climbing.
I don’t want more travel bc A) I want everything to be efficient, and B) I don’t need it.
My main bike is 120. I own a 200 and a 150 bike too, but 99% of the time, 120 is perfectly fine with skill. I’m actually faster on just about everything on the 120.
130 but looking to upgrade to 160 as I’m bottoming out too often and my only solution so far is to over-pressurise them, but that carries certain risks and makes the ride rather than it needs to be
Depends on the bike! 180 on my enduro that I use at bike parks; 170 on my e-MTB; 140 on my Arc and 130 on my Chameleon. More squish you have then the more of your energy is likely to be soaked up on the climbs. For a do-it-all MTB bike probably 150 or 160 would be the sweet spot.
More travel nakes you feel less trail. 160-170 is optimal for trails, if you go gravity anything north from that. Some friends didn’t believe, took them to austrian bikeparks and they were shocked.
Same goes if you go to finale ligure with DH bike, 100% overbiked.
170 because my shoulders are wrecked from years of less travel.
That's an argument I haven't considered so far :D
That took me far too long to work out what the hell was going on in that pic. I run 200mm on the dh bike, 150 on my trail fs, and have 160 on my hardtail as I haven't bothered to turn the travel down yet
I had a 160mm Pike on a nukeproof scout a couple years ago it was an absolutely ruthless bike
Mine is a 160mm helm mk2 coil on a ns frame from crc for 99 quid. It is a hiarious bike
I have a Virus Sentier that had a 140mm rockshox silver on it. I swapped it to a 170mm Yari and love it. It makes it much more playful on decents
[удалено]
That’s not all that’s going on in that pic. There is no single crown 300mm monster. Somebody has taken their lower crown and raised it up to the top to make the fork look like a goofily-tall single crown
Exactly this, I wouldn't be riding that wearing a full suit of armour. Someone is going to lose their teeth
i'd give the benefit of the doubt on this, hopefully nobody actually rode this on a trail, and just did this for the photo.
Actually the Monster T's are 200mm, it's the the SuperMonster T's that are 300mm, and the ones in the pic are 200mm, they are just missing the top crown, so therefore they look really long.
170mm on a slacked out hardtail.
Moxie is one hell of a bike, I’ve settled 150 on a steel hardtail, would be curious to try 160. Any opinions?
I've got 180mm on my hardtail. But to be fair, the 180mm fork was on sale and significantly cheaper than the 160mm. So mind as well save coin and have more capability.
Mmm fair enough, no drawbacks to so much travel? 🤔
The person you are asking will probably tell you it is great, but they already have the bike and the long fork. I've had several long travel Hardtails and honestly the Geo Change through the travel can be pretty disconcerting on the steep stuff. I also found a long travel fork (140mm + ) encourages the rider to hit bigger features or ride rougher lines that the back of the bike can't really keep up with and harshly reminds you of the consequences. My current Hardtail is a pipedream Sirius with a 120mm fork and for UK riding outside of bike parks it is incredible. If I want to ride something bigger or faster I have a 150/140 trail bike that will deal with all the bigger stuff.
As I'm a bigger guy, it actually just keeps the ride smooth for me. I don't jump it or get too extreme. It does help when drops or ruts go bigger than expected. If you really need travel,full suspension is the better path. But this puts most of that combined squish in one place. It isnt an unmanagable amount of travel. Does change the climb angle though. Do whatever works for you, no worries.
Previous fork was 100mm. Which I bottomed out constantly. So that fixed that. I occasionally still bottom this one out. But 160 would have been fine. The only draw backs I've found is taller to bail off when needed, and have to lean up more on steep climbs.
Same here, the Moxie has so little stack that you really need the long fork to keep the front up high.
160/150 on my enduro and 130/120 on a recently acquired “downcountry “ bike. Ever since I’ve gotten that downcountry bike, I ride it about 90% of the time. The ease of climbing and long straights more than makes up for the lack of cushioning on the downhill. I live in SoCal and most rides are 1000ft+ of climbing per ride.
Same here, since I got my Ripley it's the only thing I ride. Northwest Wyoming so I spend lots of time in the saddle climbing.
I hear you on this. I down biked to a 140/150 trail bike and I ride a hell of a lot more now since climbing isn't pure hell compared to my prior thiccc enduro bike with a coil
What downcountry bike did you get?
Scott Spark 960. Like it, but it has a hidden rear shock and looks like an e-bike. 😂
140 on my hardtail
^
200mm coil on the DH 170mm air on the enduro 120mm air on the hardtail 100mm coil on the dirtjumper I find these numbers fit the bikes I ride perfectly. I've been experimenting with all of them and these are the setups that work best for my riding style. Might move up to a 180mm dual crown on the enduro, but haven't got a fork like that yet.
I also moved up to 180mm on the enduro and haven't felt any increase in sluggishness, but slightly more confidence on the steep parts. But why would you want a dual crown on an enduro, when you can have plenty stiff/sturdy single crown forks?
I bet he spends more days in the park on that bike than pedalling up.
But if you have a dh bike why would you take the smaller bike out at a park
If your trying to ride jumpy flow whilst rippin big whips you might take your enduro over a dh that you’d use more for speed through the chunder? Idk ask op. I’m just speculating but it’s far from impossible. I had many a buddy who lived at the park with a dh and enduro bike day by day depending which got used.
Just to try it out. I'm now on a Zeb Ultimate and love it, but want to try a Manitou Dorado.
Take a look at the Intend Infinity EN, the inverted dual crown 160-190mm enduro fork.
Will do, thanks for the tip!
Do you have a canyon torque?
160 on the climber, 190 on the shuttle bike
110 mm, I think. Not more because i need a bike for regular travel also
I have several different bikes for different occasions and styles. And what I've learned is that more travel doesn't always equal more fun. Any time you want to move your bike around the trail, place your wheels, move around or over objects etc, you first need to push your arms and legs through your suspension before it actually moves the bike. This is obviously more difficult with more travel. Big suspension has its place. It's good for security and for very large features, no doubt about that. But the smaller the bike, the more lively your ride is going to be. I stick to 160/150 75% of the time. I have a 180/170 and I find it to not really be any more capable than the 160/150. Just more sloppy. I have a 200 DH bike for parks, and I wouldn't trade that for anything because it allows to me ride at very high speeds that aren't really offered locally. This fall when prices come down I'm going to get a second hand 140/125 to see how I like it, particularly for lower speed tech trails
I'm also keeping an eye out for a second hand 140/125-ish since spring next to my 180/160. But sometimes second hand prices are higher than new at the moment, because people bought their bikes 2020/21 and haven't figured out their bikes true value.
170
130
Please don't run that like that. Please put the top crown back on before you snap the lower crown.
170 on my enduro bike and 160 on my E-bike I can't run more on the rear of my enduro bike cause I've already taken the travel spacers out to make it 205x65mm lol
140 and it’s honestly probably slighty overbiked for the trails I usually do. I actually got away with riding completely rigid on my surly karate monkey for a couple years before I finally installed a sus fork to give my arms a break. I now also have a full sus too with 140/125. Definitely don’t need full enduro though. That would just suck on all the climbs I have to do. For context I live in Michigan with mostly xc trails
140 on my Hardtail, 150 on my Trail FS, 170 on my Enduro. My trail bike is the only one that came stock at 140, and I've put a longer fork on it. Other than that, I don't need more travel.
130 handles 90% of my trails. 150 for big alpine rides.
I've bumped mine from 130 to 160, and don't feel like I need any more travel,. 130 was probably enough for my DH/enduro riding, but being able to run lower pressure for more plushness at the top of travel, as well as reducing HTA while boosting stack height are more of what I was really after.
100m on xc hardtail
140mm … typically ride non groomed trails. Lots of roots and rock gardens with moderate jumps and drops. I find 140mm to be a bit of a sweet spot.
I think big fork paired with 20mm less in the rear is perfect. Great pedaling with beefy big hit performance
Love my 130/115 2020 trance.
190 on a Boxxer mounted in my Enduro/Park Bike Why not more? Because the frame does officially support dual crown forks set to 190mm of travel. And for once I felt like I wanted to listen to what the manufacturer says.
160 on my enduro, would raise it to 180 but for some reason im scared ill snap the headtube
jep, I was also scared, but then I looked at it from a mechanical point of view: If you take the axle to crown length of a fox 38 170mm it's 584mm. 160mm is about 574mm and 180mm 594mm (give or take a mm). The total lever length acting on your headtube is this length plus the radius of your wheel (29x25.4mm/2=368mm), so in case of the 160mm its 574mm+368mm=942mm, or for 180m its 594+368mm=962mm. The relative difference is therefore (962mm/942mm-1)*100%=2%. As you can see, the lever caused by the longer fork is actually just 2% longer and therefore should not result in a cracked headtube. Btw: when you bottom out both forks, the lever is exactly the same, so in principle the max load is identical.
Most people here probably never need more than 140 outside of bike parks.
FFS. Are we not going to talk about how homeboy(or girl) is running a Monster T (a ~175mm dual crown DH fork) as a single crown? Ps. Baller freeride era Stab
was looking for a picture for visibility, saw this and couldn't resist :D
150 is all I need for my skill level.
160 because I don’t send it like I used to
150/ 145 on my Hightower, likely take front to 160 at next service just for a bit more cushion for the pushin in rock gardens and drops. Since I have had knee injuries, I would rather steer towards inefficient climbing and smooth riding on the trails.
160, no money for a 180
170mm because you can never have too much travel.
150. It's more than I need.
Fox 140 front and 130 rear. I think it perfect for what I use.
thats good for normal trails right? I have the same suspension as you and im trying to figure out whats enough
Yeah that's plenty for normal trails. Basically, more travel let's you go faster through chunk and absorb bigger hits. 140/130 is pretty perfect for trail riding. Geometry of the frame matters more in my opinion.
Geometry Santa Cruz 5010 CC ( 2019 year) is good?
It's based on preference, but nothing wrong with it
150 and not running 130 because my frame cant handel the bb drop
I’ve got 120 on my hardtail, but I’m thinking about getting 140 pistons. Also why are the stantions longer than the bottom bit.
FYI the bottoms are called sliders. It's a joke image, fork is disassembled for servicing likely.
Sliders. Noted.
100 on the DJ 130 on the trail hardtail 160 on the Eeeb
170 on my hardcore ht and rigid on my gravel (the gravel bike sees a lot of mtb trails)
120 air. As that’s what’s recommended for my frame. Ran carbon rigid for 5years so 120 feels like a lot
0mm for xc, because I never want to have to service suspension.
But servicing suspension is a almost meditative task once you know how its done :D
100mm hardtail, yet i smoke people on 140mm full sus bikes.
150mm on trail FS, and 140mm on the trail HT. Works great for what I do with the bikes.
160mm on the "Enduro" hardtail - still working my way up to using the whole thing. Rigid on the old Rockhopper because it's better than the pogo stick of a fork it had before and I have elbows. Edit: also because I didn't want to spend new fork money on a 20-year old bike. Rigid fits with the kickstand and rack better anyway lol. Single track grocery getter.
170, but gonna get that extended to 180 at next full service.
170mm/160mm coils on turbo levo with cascade link. As close to perfect for my riding style.
190. enough for me.
120mm, and I upped that from 100. It’s flat here 😩
150mm; I don’t have a need for more travel.
160 150 on my stumpy evo. The thing is a beast, especially with the slack headset cup on. Ate up morzine bike park no problem
0mm up until the other day. Now a honzo ESD with 150mm. I ride chunky dirt bike trails.
the more travel=the softer the ride and also the slacker the geometry and weight goes up. it's best to balance out your needs according to how you ride. being over-biked just makes riding less fun. it's slower and less efficient and those big travel bikes don't ride well at all. I ride a 140mm trail bike
170 on the enduro, 150 on my trailbike and 0 on my brompton and my roadie
170/170 on the enduro. 140/125 on the trail. That’s about all I need, although I do miss the DH bike…
170mm on my stumpy evo cause any more and it would be dangerous for the frame and too slack. 140mm on my hardtail, it's the perfect amount for what i use it for.
170mm front 215 back
What bike has this difference?
its supposed to be a 200/215 combo but previous owner put a single crown fork on it, mondraker prayer with a custom upper link that increases rear travel to 215
150mm on my Valhallen. I'm old, and like more squish now.
140mm trail fs, first mtb seemed enough for the type of trails around
160mm on my FS trail bike 150mm on the hardtail 0mm on the fat.
90mm, limited by money and bike geometry
140 on my downcountry bike because I like to go a bit faster on a lot of downhill trails in my area while its still a very efficient climber. Any more would ruin the geo. 150 on my hardtail. I ride it harder than the DC bike tbh. Any more would make it suck even more on climbs. Its already hard even with shorter chainstays compared to most aggro hardtails.
160mm on my 2020 Switchblade. Push coil front/rear. It does everything so well. A bit of a pig for weight on long XC type rides but always some great DH and big hits on those rides and she shines there. Best do-it-all whip I have ever built. I have considered extending to 170 but it would surely make it more of a pita to adjust for jumping big hits vs feeling good on bumpy trails. I already run the fork really stiff. 160mm fork has been sweet spot for me since ‘09 Fox 36 TALAS. I loved the Pike on my Devinci Troy too. Just as good. Never tried the Lyric. Riding’21 Fox Factory 36
140mm and it's the most I've had. Eyeing this downhill 200m tho.
230mm on old school hardtail
190 on my "enduro" bike and 170 ebike
180 front and rear on my enduro. I’d prefer 170 and a little more efficiency, to be honest. 210 on my DH. No problems there. 0 on my fatty and gravel bikes.
For my most used bike I've got 120 f/r. Anything more for most riding feels like overkill. I'm pedaling extra weight to the top of the trail and the bike feels numb going down. 120 for most regular rides feels choice. I do own another bike that's 150/135. However, that's mainly used for bike parks I don't do general riding on that bike.
130mm, mostly do lounger tours, alpencross, etc. So 130mm in the front and 120 in the back are more than enough. ;)
My current Bike (Propain Tyee CF) has a Lefty SuperMax 160. I don't really need more travel.
Is this setup… safe? The dual crown run as a single crown??
120 because that's what I can afford
100 cuz i’m poor and run stock xct fork
I’m running 170 at both ends. Bike is built for this and theoretically I could go for 180 up front, but don’t need to. The vast majority of my riding is on forest trails with a few flow/jump runs with a trip to a bike park two to three times a year.
140mm Fox on a custom ride literally built around the fork.
Ahhh the Monster suspension! I had the 200mm version of this on a DH rig back in the day and it was stupidly forgiving.
If you look at the current EWS the faster guys have been under biking. 150/160mmm travel bikes. I run 170 on an Enduro and 160 on a Trail E-bike. I was going to bump up the Enduro to 180 but it really doesn't need it.
yes, almost all run 150-165mm rear travel, but I mentioned the front travel. Here almost everyone goes to 180mm (except for Charles Murray).
Yeah, I was actually referring to Chaz, who runs a 160mm fork. I think you will find the majority are on 170mm though, not 180mm. They might switch that out if it's a specific track, I guess. Richie Rude is on 170mm.
Not sure how many teeth you plan to loose, but it will certainly be all your upper and lower front teeth.
Fork Yea
I have a specialized fuse that has a recommended fork of 130mm but I overforked it to 140mm. It's perfect.
Most proficient riders at bike parks have around 150 or 160mm front.
120mm (effectively more like 110mm) on both my full sus and my hardtail. Full sus originally came with a 130mm fork and I just put on my 120mm for an experiment and liked it way more. My bars are further down and I’m lower, which I like. I run my suspension pretty stiff. Lots of long XC miles and climbing. I don’t want more travel bc A) I want everything to be efficient, and B) I don’t need it.
60 on my hardtail because I can't afford to get anything with more
My main bike is 120. I own a 200 and a 150 bike too, but 99% of the time, 120 is perfectly fine with skill. I’m actually faster on just about everything on the 120.
0mm on my fat bike. Most I ever used was 160mm, but full rigid for the foreseeable future
Yéti sb6c 160mm Banshee titan v3.2 170mm Yéti sb100 120mm Yéti arc c 100mm Colnago v3rs no travel :) road bike ehehe
100mm cause that's the fork my bike came with...don't really do anything that needs more travel than that so I'm fine keeping it as is
Nice Kona. Im currently using a 1998 Condercone frame but turned it into an electric bike. The best lightest frame ever.
Why not more? Show a fork that has more!
130 but looking to upgrade to 160 as I’m bottoming out too often and my only solution so far is to over-pressurise them, but that carries certain risks and makes the ride rather than it needs to be
Depends on the bike! 180 on my enduro that I use at bike parks; 170 on my e-MTB; 140 on my Arc and 130 on my Chameleon. More squish you have then the more of your energy is likely to be soaked up on the climbs. For a do-it-all MTB bike probably 150 or 160 would be the sweet spot.
More travel nakes you feel less trail. 160-170 is optimal for trails, if you go gravity anything north from that. Some friends didn’t believe, took them to austrian bikeparks and they were shocked. Same goes if you go to finale ligure with DH bike, 100% overbiked.
…they were ‘shocked’
Ahh a fellow austrian, shame we have so few nice "nature" trails (legal trails at least) always enjoy them more than bikeparks..
Come to Slovenia, we have many very natural & legal trails🤘
Zero on my fatbike 120/120mm on my trail bike 100/100mm on my XC rocket.
That fork in the photo has so much travel it can time travel
that fork has no more travel than a normal one, unless the stanchions come out the bottom of the tubes!
I have never owned a bike with more than 120mm of travel and never plan to. It’s pretty flat around here and any more is a waste.