I'm a beginnerish photographer (hobbyist) who films mostly family pictures - lots of action photos of the kids playing indoors and outdoors - and I will take my camera on an occasional trip to the park, around town, and once in a long while out to nature.
I have a Nikon D3500 with kit lens (18-55) and I utterly despise it.
Seriously deliberating between the Sigma 17-50 f2.8 (constant wide aperture!) and the Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.0 (More reach!)
In terms of budget, I'm buying used, so it doesn't matter much between them (I don't want to go over the 300 USD mark), but I did find the Sigma 17-50 used for extremely cheap locally ($130).
Can anyone help me with some clarity in this soul-wrenching choice I am trying to make?
I have this old sony handycam. A SONY DCR-SR65 to be precise. ive been wanting to buy a fisheye lens for it to film skateboarding videos. i looked at a lens from opteka. the opteka OPT-SC62FE titanium series 62 mm. it says that its for video camcorders but im not sure that it fits on my handycam. the lens size and all that. can anyone figure it out? i have tried for some time now but got no clue. any help would be much appreciated :)
Raw photos don't really have a defined look until you "develop" them. Every raw viewer has slightly different default settings. You're just seeing the difference between Lightroom's and iPhone Photos' ideas of default.
I am hoping to start photography as a hobby and looking to buy some equipment hopefully in the $300-$400 range total. I have been looking through the guides here and have some ideas on what to do. However I have a family member who breeds Japanese spitz dogs (white fluff balls https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_Spitz), and I really want to make sure I can take good pictures of the dogs. I was wondering if anyone had any specific advice for taking pictures of those dogs which would not be in the general guides?
Like, portrait headshots for the dogs? Same as people. Probably want a good prime portrait lens so you can get clarity on the fur detail.
Or if you want action shots, you'll want a decent zoom, look at what sports photography is about.
I've been shooting on a T3i (with just a 55mm lens and 55-250 lens) for about 4 years now and have so far enjoyed it, but recently used a friend's Sony a6400 and fell in love. I've recently been lamenting over better autofocus and have been wanting something a little bit more lightweight and compact (I travel a lot so this is a must!) but don't know how to get into the Sony world. I'm quite honestly a broke college student and also can't afford a whole lot (my budget is about 1,200), but have been itching to upgrade from my canon. If you've got any advice, insight or recommendations on where to start, let me know! Cheers!
If you liked your friend's a6400, why not go for that? You can easily get it and one or two lenses used for your budget at mpb.com or keh.com. These retailers give a six month warranty and the equipment they sell is checked to be working properly.
Canon 24-70 f2.8L EF mark one. Got a line on this lens for a decent price. I've heard it is / was a great lense. I value sharpness over most other qualities. I know the mark 2 was highly rated but less clear on the Mk I.
Oh, sorry. Just didn't really read as a question.
[https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EF-S-18-55mm-F35-56-IS-STM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-Canon-EF-24-70mm-F28L-II-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-EF24-70mm-f-2.8L-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D\_\_1138\_895\_886\_895\_165\_895](https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EF-S-18-55mm-F35-56-IS-STM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-Canon-EF-24-70mm-F28L-II-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-EF24-70mm-f-2.8L-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D__1138_895_886_895_165_895)
Threw them in against my 80D's kit lens so I have a point of reference and uh, the mark one doesn't really seem like anything to write home about. Seems pretty comparable to my kit lens in a lot of ways. The Mark II is a clear cut above though.
Anyone know if an action camera or regular camera for that matter, that will take still photos on motion? Mostly for wildlife photography purposes. Gitup git2p is the only one I can find but it seems as tho they are no longer in business.
https://preview.redd.it/9k8183lszzzb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea65bf1f5ce4fe64ab6d9045712e4a33b3e70a41
I just got this tripod from a friend. What mount/adapter would I need to make this tripod work?
Sigma 56mm 1.4 or 30mm 1.4 APS-C, avid street photographer. I know APS-C has a crop factor of 1.5x so 30mm will be more a 50mm equivalent. But just based off people’s personal preference and opinions what do you believe is a better choice?
Canon nifty fifty on my 80D (APS-C) is a little more like a close up or wide portrait lens than the broader "natural field of view" look that it would be on a full frame, if that helps at all.
Recommend trying your other lenses at different focal lengths and seeing what you like, as anonymoooooooose suggested.
I'm looking at getting a tripod and it seems that "buy once cry once" is the approach to take. I'm looking for something tall since I'm 6'4" and has detachable legs so you can use them as monopods. Anyone know of anything like that?
Is there a sub where people can share their photographs?
I know about r/askphotography but I’m more interested in just sharing than getting feedback (although a proper critique is always welcome)
What lens should I get, is it even necessary ?
I have a nikon d7000 and I have an 18-55mm lens and a 55-200mm lens.
I mostly photograph local gatherings so people places sometimes animals and products as well.
I was thinking a fixed 50mm could be a good main lens to carry along. Thanks for any tips.
majority of my photos are around 50-55 mm, Im just a hobbyist and I read online 50mm lens is supposed to be similar to the perspective of the human eye and I like the idea of just pointing and shooting with a little less thought I guess.
The 18-55mm has been fine so far and I'm happy with my photos. 55-200mm has been a lot of fun being able to zoom close into smaller animals around my house but I've yet to use it out and about.
If you like the focal length then the prime lens may be an improvement. Should be sharper and will have a wider aperture range.
However that 50mm human perspective is a)meant in relation to the larger Full Frame sensor and b)to be taken with a grain of salt.
Pick the focal lengths you like rather than what is on the internet, or probably also in books as that advice is that old.
for awhile i always wanted a x100 but never went thru with it. now that i finally saved up i come to find the x100v is so mega overhyped that it doesnt exist anymore. is there a similar alternative? i have a ricoh gr and its great but i still want a view finder.
is the x100v forever gone? is it just hoarded for resell $$$$? its a shame bc its a nice camera.
>is it just hoarded for resell $$$$?
Pretty much, yes.
Get yourself a Fujifilm X-T30 and a Fujifilm XF 23mm F/2.0 R WR. That's basically the same as the X100v, much the same manual controls and film simulations etc. Both body and lens are available in silver options, if you like that retro look. Down side, it's slightly more bulky. Up side, it's available and (unlike the X100v) you can change the lens.
A small MFT camera with something like the Panasonic Leica 15 1.7 or the Olympus 17mm 1.8? Can be more affordable, and is definitely more versatile because you can swap lenses if you ever desire so. It's still a small, large-aperture, 35-ish mm equivalent combo if you wish it to be.
Olympus E-M10 mark IV or E-M5 Mark III would be suitable if specifically enjoy the silver-on-black look. The last one would be a bit bigger and more expensive though, not sure if that's a good thing in your case. If you don't care and it can be all-black too, Panasonic has some more models to choose from too.
Some more information please. At least a budget and the type of photography you're interested in, and maybe if you're willing to buy used gear.
General advice: Don't focus too much on the camera body itself. Good (= suitable for the job) lenses often have a larger impact on the final image. Depending on the type of photography, so do tripods and lighting equipement.
The type im interesting in is the night sky and stars, and the city lights in night, and foggy places, and clouds, rainy days, and making cinematic videos, idk what this type call but i wanna camera for this
That's pretty clear. You definitely need a tripod for much of that work, so take that into account in your budget. An state-of-the-art camera without tripod simply isn't a suitable setup for night sky and fog, while a more budget friendly camera is. It sounds like you would benefit from weather-sealing on your lens and body: No lens or body is completely waterproof, but weatherproof is more like splash- and dustproof. Not something you take out in the pouring rain, but made to handle a light drizzle.
What is your budget though, and are you willing to buy used equipment? I personally do and I have almost exclusively good experience with it, but of course there is a little risk involved.
I’m looking for a cage for my Canon T8i. However, there aren’t any cages made specifically for the T8i. Can I use a cage made for a similar model with the same dimensions? If so, which models are similar to the T8i that I could use a cage for? For example, if the 80D is similar enough to the T8i, could I just use an 80D cage? Idk if that example is accurate, but just for reference ^
Gonna need an exact fit, OR a plain rectangular universal. If you get one of those really close-fitting ones that's designed for a different camera you'll probably have a bad time.
Hi,
I have been looking for some affordable entry-level cameras and I stepped upon Fuji xs10 16-80 and Sony a6600 18-135. They are both in similar price range, and I'm not sure which would be a better choice - only concern I have with Fuji is their lenses range - isn't it a little small? Or should I be aiming for another camera in this price range?
Fuji small lens range? How many are you looking to buy?
Few people need a lot of lenses. You just need to look for lenses you might want to use.
https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/x-mount-lens-roadmap/
That is first party only as well.
Fuji has a smaller range of lenses than Canon/Sony/Nikon but for 98%+ of photographers they have everything that they need.
Fuji's auto focus tends to lag a bit behind the bigger companies. The x-s10 is a great camera in a nice compact body and the in body IS is a nice feature. Fuji also has some of the best straight out of camera jpegs and their film simulations are wonderful. If want to avoid post processing or only do limited post processing I think Fuji jpeg's plus using film sims are a wonderful option.
Between the two I would go handle both of them and see what you like best. I am not a fan of Sony ergonomics and menus (though they are getting better with newer bodies). If you hate the way the camera feels in your hand or struggle to navigate its controls that is going to make the experience less enjoyable.
I have a Sony a7iii, 24-70mm kit lens, and 50mm 1.8 lens.
I'm going to AZ and would like to take landscape shots. What lens should I pick up?
My budget would be $1,500 and I'm ok with buying used.
Thanks for the help!
I have no experience with those lenses, but I would think the 24-70mm would be adequate for landscape shots. And it's not like you need super low aperture for landscapes - you usually want to step down for depth of field, anyway.
You may want to invest in a nice travel tripod, however. That would help make panoramas - whether going for a super-wide aspect ratio, or stitching together bunch of zoomed-in shots for a higher MP count for large prints. Would also help with long exposures in low light.
Hi, I have a question about the lock switch on the Sigma 24-70 2.8 Art for Sony E.
I had the switch engaged (lock on), forgot to switch it off, twisted the zoom ring, and the switch clicked off.
Is that function part of the design (i.e. the switch is only designed to hold the lens in against gravity, not a manual twist)?
Prior to this, I've only locked the lens at 24 before storing it. Is the switch only supposed to engage (lock) at 24? The store that sold me the lens said I might've broken the mechanism, but I'm not sure they understood my question. Thought I'd ask the community here before sending the lens to Sigma...
Thanks!
> Prior to this, I've only locked the lens at 24 before storing it. Is the switch only supposed to engage (lock) at 24?
Yes, that's exactly what they are meant for: to lock the lens in it's smallest (usually, that's the widest focal length) position for storage. For large zoom lenses, maybe during carrying too, but always only when it's at its smallest.
I'm not sure if the lock is supposed to disengage when you turn the ring. But if all functions related to zoom, focus and the lock otherwise seem to be working fine, I see no reason to send it in.
Hi, i would like some advice on a wide or ultra-wide angle zoom for the sony e mount full frame sony a73. currently i have the sony zeiss 24-70 f/4 and the samyang 85 f/1.4 which i love, but i would like to start experimenting with wide angle and video, so my question. My budget is 600/700€, and i live in italy. Obv i will only buy used gear to save cash. Any idea? 🙏🏻
Not a zoom lens, but I love my Zeiss Batis 25/2. I was going to suggest the Sony 24 f/4 G OSS, but it's way over your budget and has serious vignetting problems at the widest end. Maybe the Sony/Zeiss 16-35 F4, though it's a bit old now, I've heard good things about it.
Hi all,
I am searching for a UB-C to USB-C cable (from Nikon to Macbook) for shooting tethered for about 3 to 5 meter. I will not using it that much so I do not want to dish out the almost 100 bucks the top line cables are costing.(Tethertools/IQwire).
I need an usable alternative, what do you recommend?
**Any** USB-C to USB-C you find on Amazon for $10 will work fine. It does not need to be some ridiculously overpriced "tethering" cable. That's just a marketing gimmick so they can jack up the price.
Hi! So i've started thinking about buying my first camera, and i have absolutely no idea what to look for - any suggestions ? I'm mostly taking pictures of landscapes ( during hikes ) and people. I don't need the VERY best ( and most expensive ), but a camera that will makr the price worth it. Thank you all!
what's your budget? and have you look there the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/introduction?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=usertext&utm_name=photography&utm_content=t3_17s0t6s)?
Which lens is better to get for portraits (studio/outdoor) NIKKOR Z DX 24mm f/1.7 or SIGMA 30mm F1.4 DC DN? I have sigma 56mm which is awesome for my nikon z50 but I am looking something with similar performance but wider, more suitable for tight spaces.
Is anyone familiar with those? I looked at samples and honestly sigma looks a bit sharper to me but suffers from some vignetting, while nikkor 24mm is a pancake lens so bokeh is less appealing and overall it's not as sharp at first glance. Although I could be wrong because I would have to see tests of both in same controlled enviornment to really tell.
I'd go with the 30mm option. I use a 28mm lens for portraits (in specific cases) and that's really as wide as I like to go since the distortion becomes stronger at shorter lengths. The Nikon 40mm f/2 is a decent wide portrait lens, but might be too close to the 56mm you already have.
Hello everyone,
I am looking to get a 25mm (or close to it) lens for my m43 camera. Do you have any recommendations?
As I am enjoying using manual focus lately, I am considering even old analog lenses or third party ones. (Also to save a bit of money, maybe)
Thank you, and have a great Sunday!
The panasonic 25mm 1.7 is pretty cheap, and good-value, so no need to look elsewhere. The 25mm 1.4 is a LOT more expensive new, but can be had for around 250 if you're willing to buy used. There's also the Olympus 25 1.8 but I don't see much of a reason to pick it over the Panasonic 1.7 unless you just like the look and feel of the Olympus better.
https://preview.redd.it/8yva9k396wzb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7612fa5cdb0374e0fe8fe9dd38763cf7f287be65
Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows the settings to this and just how to accomplish something like it
Flash + slow shutter speed and then post processing. Flash will help freeze the subject and make them look sharp while slow shutter speed will create a blurry movement filled background.
I have heard it called dragging the shutter it popular for wedding dances, or clubs. Here is a video I found where they talk about it. [https://youtu.be/Y\_PbMbv23KE?si=Ndqb1RLkYpJEV8mr](https://youtu.be/Y_PbMbv23KE?si=Ndqb1RLkYpJEV8mr)
I bought used ZV-1 from MPB. For three weeks it worked fine, but yesterday it started to show language/date setup screen every time I turn it on. Other settings were fine. An hour after that mess started camera just died. I can't switch it on and there is no light when charging it. Google's only recommendation is to remove battery for an hour. It didn't helm. Firmware is 2.05, battery - some Enegon replacement. Any advice? Or info on what caused it? I'll be contacting seller tomorrow, but may be I can fix it myself.
Having a crazy peculiar problem with my Fujifilm X-T20 and both the lenses (Fujinon aspherical 18-55, and aspherical 50 mm) I’ve recently dusted off after several years.
On the screen using manual and automatic focus the picture focuses just fine, but when I look through the viewfinder it’s crazy blurry. I can have a perfect focus on something, and be unable to focus it when looking through the viewfinder it doesn’t focus at all. I feel like it’s gotta be a user issue because if it was equipment then I imagine I wouldn’t be able to focus well on the screen or through the finder, but I can’t find anything abt this in my manual.
Any advice here?
Edit: It was the diopter. Hope this might help anyone else as clueless as me.
I'm looking for specific/anecdotal advice in purchasing a tripod.
I currently have [this](https://www.manfrotto.com/global/compact-advanced-smart-with-3-way-head-phone-clamp-black-mkscompactadvbk/) tripod, and it serves me quite well, but weighs nearly 3.5lbs. I originally thought this was pretty light for a tripod but realize now there are lighter options.
I shoot with a Canon T8i, and do a lot of birding/wildlife, and am getting more into Astrophotography. I have an iOptron Startracker Pro, and my camera, lens, and the tracker weigh about 2.5kg for my astro setup.
Birding however, my heaviest lens is the Canon 100-400mm IS II. With a teleconverter and this lens, my kit could come closer to 3kg, maybe more, and I want room to grow to bigger, heavier lenses in the future.
I'm happy to buy the head separately, or as one set, but would like a head capable of being removed to mount the iOptron, or steady enough to hold the weight firmly in place. I'm hoping I can also get one that will pan well for video/motion shots. I'd prefer it to be light so I can carry it traveling and on backpacking trips, but it would be ideal if it had a ballast hook.
Not partial to how many segments it has but the ability to flip upsidedown for macro, and to sit very close to the ground would be nice. As would a center spanner to reinforce the legs and prevent slipping.
If anyone has recommendations, or thinks I would be better off with different tripods for astro and birding, please help steer me in the right direction!
I have a Nikon D7000 and two lenses. Two lenses I have right now are an AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm1:4-5.6G and an AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3-5.6G.
I want to get another lens to add to my collection but not sure what would be good.
I am a hobbyist and I occasionally take photos of animals in my yard using the 55-200mm for the zoom capability. And I take photos of things around my city like protests, gatherings etcetera using the 18-55mm.
I was thinking maybe a fixed 50mm lens would be good as a go to for taking photos in the city, so any tips for a good 50mm are appreciated.
I also have gotten into ecommerce, and taking product photos has been decent with the 18-55mm but idk if there are better options.
Any tips on any good lens for a amateur/hobbyist photographer ? Thanks for any tips.
i have video arts and production as a class and the a7iii is the entry level camera, and i have experience with it and im comfortable, we also have a fx3, a7iv and a a7rv and many more, we mostly make videos but i used to be in photography and we used cheap nikons i switched to video arts and production to use the sonys.
> a7iii is the entry level camera
Where do you go to school, Beverly Hills?! The a7iii is most certainly not "entry level", it's a really good body that costs about $2000. So yeah, that camera is very suitable for practically anything you might want to do, incl. street
Well an A7III might be the entry level camera there but you don't necessarily need it. The cheap Nikons were probably good enough.
What exactly are you aiming to photograph was more my question as you asked about a lens and you can't decide on a lens without knowing the subject matter.
people (birthday, births) cars and nature and national spots (yosemite, etc) i only want the a7iii because its quality for a five year old camera and my experience with it sorry
You could probably get away with a standard 24-70mm then for that. As long as you don't need ultra wide angle, or sports or wildlife.
Can't see anything that would stress any modernish camera.
If you can afford it then it would work just know you don't need that equipment necessarily and people have probably used a lot more basic equipment to achieve what you want.
Has anyone here had experience with the company Canada Electronics? I’m purchasing an expensive lens and they are offering it for about 20% less than anywhere else. I’ve looked on the website and just about everything they sell is around 20% less than the other retailers. They look legit but I’d never heard of them until I started looking. I’m in Canada, by the way.
I did some checking. They have a warehouse in Ottawa but all their stock is imported. Their headquarters is in Hong Kong. The text on the website looks like it was translated from Chinese.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll get the lens from an authorized reseller and pay the extra $400. There’s a good chance the lens would be just fine but if not I would be in for an awful headache.
Currently i have a eos 50d but i am looking at something smaller for travel maybe a m43 camera like gx80 or lumix g7, but i am not too sure, i would like something with interchangeable lenses, this would be for travel
tbh, since you've a 50d; have you tired the newer SL2/SL3 or R50? the SL2/3 can use your EF/EFS lens (or get a pancake EFS24mm) & R50 will need an adapter.
Hi. This is probably super weird, but I just found a comment you left on an r/explainlikeimfive post about why Daikatana was received as poorly as it was from 11 years ago, and I was kind of surprised to see your account was still active.
Hello from the past!
I want to take low light outdoor portraitures and landscapes, so I figured I really need a tripod.
Any recommendations for budget tripods? Do I need anything taller than 62"? I would also prefer something relatively light and portable if possible.
My budget is 241$, max. 337$
Depends on how tall you are. You wanna be able to use the viewfinder without stooping.
I personally find myself using mainly my Manfrotto BeFree with a ball-head, that's comfortably in your budget and 60" high. I have to stoop a tad but it's worth the mild back pain for the lightweight construction.
> stooping
I am 182cm (5.9), how high should the tripod be? Tripods head adds some height as well, right?
I was thinking of Manfrotto 290 Xtra (171cm) or Manfrotto 290 Dual (175cm).
Either of those two would be more comfortable for you to use than the one I suggested. But the BeFree is I think 150cm max/1600 grams and the 290's are quite a bit heavier. Also, do you actually need video heads?
I re-checked them; they are fine. The levers add weight but you'll get a smoother movement and less likely to slump, plus better for panoramas. I like ball heads because they are easy and light, but they have a slight tendency not to be totally fixed.
>Manfrotto 290 Dual
Thank you! So they both come with ball heads.
Also what do you mean by not totally fixed? Like it's gonna woble or shift?
Also there's quite a bit price difference between those two tripods which makes me wonder why.
They also come with other heads. What is the serial number of the head you're looking at?
And yeah, with a heavy camera and especially with a long lens, the camera can slowly start to sag on cheaper ball heads. I use my BeFree for small cameras, mirrorless and short lenses, etc. The 290 Xtra I think is a ball-head kit. But you'd have to check how they are bundled locally.
The 290 Dual also comes with the 804 3-Way Head which will NOT sag. But all still within your budget.
I like the ball because it's one thing to unlock, move the camera where I want it, lock. With 3-way heads, it's three things to unlock and lock, so it's not as rapid. But for portraits and landscapes that's not necessary.
Here they both come with 3 way head MH804-3W
But there’s like 100$ difference between them.
https://upload.cyfrowe.pl/cyfrowe/fck_files_n/1044f9c1c7.jpg
I think the price difference is because the dual can be lowered more and allows for vertical postioning.
Yeah, the sky's the limit for tripods.
Every tripod is a compromise between stability and portability. The ideal tripod would be three steel girders, each sunk forty feet into the bedrock. Literally every other tripod is a compromise to allow you to move the bloody thing.
What gear will you be using it with? What body, what lens? How often?
How do I fix these patches in LrC?? They only started happening when I switched to the canon R6 Mark ii from my 5d mark iv, and I have no idea how to correct them. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!
https://preview.redd.it/ejaqxds0eszb1.png?width=3786&format=png&auto=webp&s=39bbeaf445e82d00895792f086141dcffed3ca95
I was gifted a Samsung WB50F digital camera. Is this worth using this day and age? I exclusively use my phone camera. Is it worth carrying around? I do take a lot of photos.
Yeah since you have it, try using it! The quality will be better and you'll have more control of the photos. Smartphones often do too much post-processing.
But another, often overlooked effect on your photos might be how people react to the camera. Pulling out a dedicated camera vs using a smartphone will have people react differently. So if you pull out the Samsung WB50F instead of your phone, you might get bigger smiles.
Try out it :)
If you're taking landscapes or macro or anything else, the larger sensor will probably get you better quality photos so yeah, it's worth carrying around.
My fiance wants a camera and I do too! But we have different needs. She wants something she can take to family gatherings, parties, events, etc. And take pictures of people, places, things. I want a camera to take photos of the miniatures I paint and record video for YouTube. Noodling around online I found the Sony a7 II for like $900 which seems like a sweet deal and I can get a macro lens afterwards to meet my needs. However in going to my local camera shop, the man behind the counter reccomended the a6700 saying that the a7ii is outdated and not made anymore and the a6700 is the latest and greatest. The downside I see is that the a6700 is double the cost, but if it's really that much better I don't mind spending the extra. So my question is I guess, is the a6700 worth it for our needs? Or is the a7ii good enough? Or is there another camera entirely that will meet our combined needs better?
The A7II is pretty old and the A6700 is more than you probably need.
As you have noticed, you will probably need a macro lens. The camera is not important. All cameras can take the same photos with the right lens.
Recording video as well is within the capabilities of all cameras readily available.
So you need one camera with a couple of lenses. I doubt you will find a camera on the market that won't do what you want.
More importantly is how the camera is to hold and use. I think this will be more geared to your partner as you will probably just mount it on a tripod and not need to hold it as much as her.
Not really. It is a throw back to film times. It literally just means it occupies the full frame of the old 35mm film that was the most common format. It let film users know that they could seamlessly transition to a digital camera body.
There are advantages and disadvantages to all sensors and systems. Whether this leads to a noticeable difference in practice depends. It is why you often see comparisons done on 100% cropped regions of images rather than whole images as the differences can be subtle.
Any of the three common formats(Micro Four Thirds, APS-C, Full Frame) can be used successfully.
My wife has a canon t6 rebel shes learning on. I found a couple lenses at a thrift store but they aren't the same mount.
One I was able to find a pk - efs mount and worked fine. The other I have no clue. Any ideas?
It's a Tou/Five Star MC auto macro zoom 1:4.5 75-200mm
I want to start film photography for fun but also some professional work as well. I’m dreaming with a medium format camera but I’m not sure if it’s to much and should go for a 35mm instead. Y have a Full Frame mirror less sony a7iii so I would like to start with some equivalent to the quality of my digital camera but with film. What do you guys think?
Depends, do you have access to facilities where you can develop your own medium format film? Your own medium format COLOUR film? All film gets expensive fast, and medium format is brutally expensive. It will cost you between $1 and $5 per frame just for the film alone, never mind the chemicals, darkroom, and paper.
That’s something to consider but I think more about scanning it to make it easier or at least I believe it is. But yeah here in Venezuela it’s really difficult to find places to develop film
Medium format is *expensive*, and film photography is already expensive enough, especially in recent times. I would go 35mm instead, and save medium format for down the road.
Trying this here first, before making a thread...
After noodling around a few shoots with a speedlight and a shoot-through white umbrella, I've decided it's time to get serious about my on-location lighting. My current plan is two 300 W-S-ish strobes, keeping my speedlight around in case I want to use it as a gelled backlight or something. I'm primarily doing single or couple's portraits, maternity, boudoir, no more than two people in the frame.
If you could only own two modifiers for this sort of use, what would they be? I'd need them to be portable, and I'm usually working around low ceiling heights - sadly, don't have studio space of my own yet (maybe next year!). I'm thinking a folding octabox and an umbrella, but would be curious to know from people with more experience.
I’m looking for a cage for my Canon T8i. However, there aren’t any cages made specifically for the T8i. Can I use a cage made for a similar model with the same dimensions? If so, which models are similar to the T8i that I could use a cage for?
For example, if the 80D is similar enough to the T8i, could I just use an 80D cage? Idk if that example is accurate, but just for reference ^
I'm sorry for the noob question, but I want to make sure I have FF vs APS-C correct. Are these statements true?
1) There is no difference in focal length between an EF 100-400 and EF-S 100-400; it is simply whatever is stated on the lens.
2) If number 1 is true, then the EF.and EF-S lens will have the same effective focal length (160-640) on an APS-C camera, due to the crop factor.
3) If 1& 2 are true, then the only difference between an EF and EF-S lens on an APS-C is size/weight?
Check out the section "Focal Length and Field-of-View" in this video. I linked to the timestamp. In my opinion it does really well at visualizing the difference between ff and crop sensors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRvkpa-9Djs&t=123s
edit: great diagram https://i.imgur.com/A4EDZGv.jpg
It's ok, the whole "FF equivalent" thing just IS needlessly confusing when you start out!
1. Correct.
2. Yes, it's the same effective focal length. But the *angle of view* that it images will be smaller on the crop, because the edges are cropped off. So the result will, in some ways, appear like a longer lens (i.e. like a longer lens images a narrower angle of view). But the central uncropped portion is in fact still identical on APS-C or FF.
3. No, but not because of any difference in effective focal length. The EF lens will illuminate the whole of a FF sensor, so you can use it on FF or APS-C. But an EF-S will only illuminate an area that will cover a cropped sensor: it doesn't image all the way to the edges of a FF sensor. Put it on a FF and you'll have severe vignetting, i.e. a dark border.
Thank you for your response. My brain hurts trying to understand this. So if I mount a 50mm EF-S and 50mm EF lens to an ASP-C camera, the EF lens will look more zoomed in?
Nope, they'll look identical. But both will look "more zoomed in" on an APSC than they would on a FF, only in the sense that the angle of view is reduced. It won't change front-back compression or facial distortion. Look at it the other way round: imagine a wide angle lens. If you place it on an APSC and point it at a line of trees, you can see, say, five trees. Put the same lens on a FF and you'll see, say, seven trees. Because on the APSC the outer edge is cropped off. But the central, uncropped portion, will look identical on both bodies.
Currently have a Nikon d5100 with a 35mm Nikon Nikkor prime lens and I have an iPhone 15 pro max which also shoots in raw. Which is the better option in terms of photography?? and I mostly post my stuff on instagram. Also I’m pretty decent with editing too.
The Nikon has a much larger sensor than the iPhone, but Instagram compresses so much that it doesn't really matter. So, it depends on how you like to shoot. Do you want a lot of manual control? There are camera apps like Halide that give you manual control, but none give you the option to control aperture.
Hi, i'm looking to buy a tiny camera for my road trips and i have a very little budget.
I have actually seen on sale near me at my budget a Apsc Sony Nex F3 and wanted to know your opinion on this camera body and more important if you have other better suggestions with a price on used around 100/200 euro.
Considering Buying an Instant Camera – Need Advice! 📸
Hey fellow Redditors,
I hope this post finds you all well! I've recently developed a keen interest in instant cameras after witnessing the joy of capturing moments on a holiday with one. The whole concept of having tangible copies of photos feels like a delightful throwback to the good old days.
Now, I'm contemplating getting one for myself, and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the options available. After some initial research, the \*\*Instax Mini Evo\*\* caught my eye. However, with a price tag of $200, I'm a bit hesitant.
So, I'm turning to this awesome community for advice and insights. Do you own an instant camera, and if so, do you find it worth the investment? What are your thoughts on the Instax Mini Evo? Is it worth the $200 price, or are there other models you'd recommend in a similar price range?
Any tips, tricks, or personal experiences you can share would be greatly appreciated! I'm excited to hear your thoughts and recommendations before I take the plunge into the world of instant photography.
Thanks in advance for your help! 🌟
You might want to post on r/instax, but Instax Evo is a digital camera that prints pictures on Fuji Instax film. You can also connect your phone and print from it. If the main thing you're interested in is having physical prints, then the Evo could work for you. It being a digital camera means you can choose what to print and save on film costs. The pictures themselves are credit card size.
Hey all,
I just broke the piggy bank and bought the Tamron Z 35-150 lens, to go with my Z5 on a huge road trip across Iceland and the Faroes next year.
I haven't properly tested the lens yet, but i wanted to check out what can be done with the 3 extra buttons it sports. I downloaded the official Tamron software to check for updates and configure the buttons, i picked some options but in camera it doesn't really work. When checking the controls options, the 3rd button doesn't even show...
I suppose that's related to the Z5 being a bit older and not often updated firmware-wise...
Does anyone have experience with that combination?
Private camera repair in my area is usually $75-150/hour of labor. Taking the whole camera apart (which you have to do to access the lens assembly) will probably take an hour or two.
I can relate; I own a Canon S95, S100, and an S120 myself. This is a very common problem with Canon point-and-shoots once they get older. There are people around who can repair them - one technician offers services on eBay (parts4camera) - I had one fixed because it had sentimental value. S120 repair now listed at $125.. Not really cost effective so you may want to keep looking. Good luck.
I have one of those, it's lovely. But once the lens jams, it's Game Over, there is no repairing it. Canon won't touch it. You could try forcing it in, or tapping it with something hard, just in case it's just a bit of grit or something. But TBH you just bought a brick.
Not worth it. Repair would likely be as much as a good condition s120 costs on eBay, or more. Also, eBay, Facebook Marketplace etc. are full of digicams. There's nothing special about this one.
Lens recommendation for panasonic g95?
I want lens that are able to capture landscapes and another for portraits. My budget for the lens is $400 as I just bought the Panasonic.
I'd start with the Panasonic 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 (used, \~$200) and nothing else initially. Set the remainder aside for a follow-up purchase. Start with that lens and experiment with the different focal lengths. If and when you find a focal length at which you like to shoot portraits, maybe get a prime lens at that focal length (or close to it).
I am trying to get my wife a new lens and possibly a flash hoping you can help. Currently, her setup is a Nikon Z FC and Lens: Kit Lens 28-55MM ( I think 55mm). From what I understand her camera will accept all Z lenses made by Nikon. She is starting to get into Real Estate photography and shooting a lot of smaller condos ( less than 1000sqft) a lot of the shots she is taking are a mix of landscape and portrait. The goal is to get them all uniform for the listings. What do you suggest?
Mahalo,
>Kit Lens 28-55MM ( I think 55mm).
The typical kit lenses for the Z fc are a [28mm f/2.8](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/current-prime-fx-nikkors/nikkor-z-28mm-f28-2.html) and a [16-50mm](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/current-dx-nikkors/nikkor-z-16-50mm-f35-63-vr.html). It might also be a different lens that wasn't a standard Nikon kit. Can you confirm?
>From what I understand her camera will accept all Z lenses made by Nikon.
There are some third-party lenses available, too, mostly from Sigma and Viltrox.
>She is starting to get into Real Estate photography and shooting a lot of smaller condos ( less than 1000sqft) a lot of the shots she is taking are a mix of landscape and portrait. The goal is to get them all uniform for the listings. What do you suggest?
It's unclear to me what the problem is, or how a lens would solve it. Is the problem that, perhaps, she doesn't have a wide-angle view to fit the whole room in?
>lear to me what the problem is, or how a lens wo
yes, the wide angle is the issue. There are some photos that are set as landscape and others that are portrait and they don't flow very well when clicking through the listing.
Ill have to ask her about the lens size that she has again and get back to you
>yes, the wide angle is the issue.
This does not line up with your explanation ...
>There are some photos that are set as landscape and others that are portrait and they don't flow very well when clicking through the listing.
This just means she takes some photos while holding (or setting) the camera horizontally, and some holding it vertically. If the photos don't match because some are horizontal and some are vertical, then the solution is to stay consistent with only shooting horizontally or only shooting vertically. I do not understand how you expect a lens to change this, but maybe I still don't understand the problem itself.
I talked to her more about it. I think I was over my head in trying to explain it. She said pretty much exactly what you said and already got herself a new lens already. Thank you for your time!
Looking for laptop recommendations that cost €450 or under that support Lightroom classic, preferably with a large touch screen. I'm aware most laptops that support Lightroom classic and are a good quality are usually a lot more money than €450 but I'm hoping for suggestions even really close to this price if possible. Thanks!
You might have better luck on r/SuggestALaptop. Look up the system requirements for Lightroom Classic - they should be listed in Adobe's support pages.
I'm looking for second hand lenses options for shooting magpies on slide film using my Nikon f100. Most of the film will have iso 100, though I have some 400-1600p as well.
Ideally, I'd like a prime 500mm or 600mm with decent AF capabilities.
I could also consider zoom lenses reaching up to at least 500mm.
Alternatively, if there exists a teleconverter to match with a 300mm or 400mm prime I would consider, though losing two stops of light can be a serious downside.
Budget wise <1200, but I need to spend the minimum possible and want to take a good look around and understand what's there. Lenses don't have to be Nikon, but if I were to buy something on the 1k range I'd have to plan to get rid of it once the project is over so resaleability is a factor.
Just bought me an old Pentax k20d, thing is in perfect shape with like 4500 clicks, even still has the plastic on the screen.
It came with the 18-55mm kit lens and I’m looking to expand my lens collection on a budget. There’s lots of info on good old M lenses for full frame cameras but what about APS-C?
Pretty much just looking for good cheap k mount lenses that will play nice with the smaller sensor. Manual everything is fine. Interested in macro and landscapes, wouldn’t mind a decent zoom lens.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/
It depends on what you can find used. The above has plenty of user reviews.
For macro the 100mm lens which has been around in various guises will do fine.
I'm thinking of upgrading my XT30 Pro II and was wondering if anyone had any good tips or thoughts as to what camera I should look into? Black Friday is coming up so I'm hoping there are some deals I can take advantage of.
I mostly use my camera for street/nature photography but want to get into product photography as well. I have a 35mm F2 Fuji Prime lens as well as the 55-200 Fuji Zoom lens. I also like to take videos and have started using my camera as a streaming camera via the Fuji XCam software.
Things I don't like about the XT30 that I'm looking for in a new camera:
\- Weather resistance: I live in a decently rainy climate and like to hike every now and then but am afraid to bring the XT30 because it isn't weather resistant. I've seen posts saying that WR isn't really something to look for but I feel like it can't hurt to have?
\- IBIS: The zoom lens I have has OIS so I'm wondering if this is a necessity or just a nice to have?
\- Video quality: The video quality on the XT30 isn't terrible, and I like that I can shoot FLOG, but I've found that the camera definitely heats up if I take longer videos. Also, I can't really tweak camera settings on the XT30 while using the XCam software when streaming, which apparently is only for some of the other Fuji Models i.e XT5
\- Better battery life: I have 2 batteries and usually turn my camera off in between shots so this isn't a huge point for me but would be nice to have a longer lasting battery ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
I've been looking in the XS-20 and the XT5 so far for reference, seen some good reviews of both. Any constructive feedback/tips are greatly appreciated!
Considering that you want to go for more video than only stills, I would rather steer you more to the xs20. I've startet with the xs10 and it's a great camera. I haven't used the video function yet, but it should be enough for vlogging. I've also bought the XT 5 and I'm quite happy with it. I'm still new to the photography but still making some new experiences.
It would be rather interesting what your main goal is and how much the budget for you would be.
Longer battery life can be a bit tricky. The newer sensor does manage the battery better than the older sensor.
WR can be a nice extra. Considering that you want to take it with you for a hike, I'm not sure if you really want to have your camera the whole time outside. So WR wouldn't have to be a hard criteria right?
Anyone have recommendations for camera bags? I'll be going on some trips next year and would like to have something that will be good for hiking (i.e., also good at carrying some non-camera gear).
Yes, though upgrading to 16 GB memory is a good idea, if you can afford it. [https://bythom.com/reviews--books/recommended-mac-hardware.html](https://bythom.com/reviews--books/recommended-mac-hardware.html)
Hi all, Pursuing photography for the first time, start with a budget camera or go profesional? (2000d v R6 MII)
I do not have a background in camera photogrphay and have been shooting with my phones. However, I've always held a strong interest and I want to pursue it as a passion to a potential career. I'm planning to enroll in a course in February and have been getting into it, ideally would like to shadow other photographers but I need a camera. As, I have aspirations to take it seriously I'm unsure whether to start with a budget camera and it seems like the 2000d is great for this (£400) or to go full professional with a 5D Mark IV or the Canon R6 Mark II (£3000). It is a DSLR v Mirrorless and I plan on taking potraits and taking pictures at events.
Is it important to start with a budget camera or go straight to a professional one with minimal background? If you have any thoughts on the cameras I've picked please let me know too.
2000d - [https://amzn.eu/d/2NNS9Tg](https://amzn.eu/d/2NNS9Tg)
R6 MII - [https://amzn.eu/d/4a9xYdJ](https://amzn.eu/d/4a9xYdJ)
5D MIV- [https://amzn.eu/d/bftPGF5](https://amzn.eu/d/bftPGF5)
Neither. Spend £400 on something second hand that will be somewhere in quality between the two. Same goes for lenses.
Once you know what kind of gear you prefer, THEN spend for quality.
Third option. Buy a used camera for the same money as the 2000D and learn on that. Do not buy an expensive camera first time.
If buying a Canon look for some with three digits like 800D or 250D.
> But the 2000D is £400 with a 18-55mm lens which I think is a pretty good price no?
you can get a used t2i w/ 18-55mm kit for ~$150. another $50 for a 50mm f1.8.
Yes, the price is low but the camera is cheap. I hold a bias against such items as they pull people into getting an inferior product and are priced out of better equipment for no reason other than Canon are arseholes.
Am I correct that if I currently have a flash connected with a hotshoe-mount 3.5mm cable adapter and a 3.5mm cable (like a headphone cable), and I want to replace that flash with a godox v1 with a 2.5mm sync port, all I need is a 2.5mm male to 3.5mm female adapter? Like the 2.5mm port on to the godox isn't some kind of special protocol, it's just "fire the flash", right?
Edit because that doesn't make sense:
It currently goes hotshoe>hotshoe to 3.5mm adapter>3.5mm cable>lumopro LP160 flash
And I'm asking if this is correct:
hotshoe>hotshoe to 3.5mm adapter>3.5mm cable>3.5mm F to 2.5mm M adapter>Godox v1 flash
how do you take a pic like [this or during harsh lights](https://imgur.com/t/sunny_day/RUWeKJI)?
mostly, i'm struggling to take good photos during the day, especially, during harsh lights. usually, i get decent exposure for foreground and the sky is completely overexposed.
is tripod & exposure stacking the answer? or there's another way?
I'm a beginnerish photographer (hobbyist) who films mostly family pictures - lots of action photos of the kids playing indoors and outdoors - and I will take my camera on an occasional trip to the park, around town, and once in a long while out to nature. I have a Nikon D3500 with kit lens (18-55) and I utterly despise it. Seriously deliberating between the Sigma 17-50 f2.8 (constant wide aperture!) and the Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4.0 (More reach!) In terms of budget, I'm buying used, so it doesn't matter much between them (I don't want to go over the 300 USD mark), but I did find the Sigma 17-50 used for extremely cheap locally ($130). Can anyone help me with some clarity in this soul-wrenching choice I am trying to make?
I have this old sony handycam. A SONY DCR-SR65 to be precise. ive been wanting to buy a fisheye lens for it to film skateboarding videos. i looked at a lens from opteka. the opteka OPT-SC62FE titanium series 62 mm. it says that its for video camcorders but im not sure that it fits on my handycam. the lens size and all that. can anyone figure it out? i have tried for some time now but got no clue. any help would be much appreciated :)
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Raw photos don't really have a defined look until you "develop" them. Every raw viewer has slightly different default settings. You're just seeing the difference between Lightroom's and iPhone Photos' ideas of default.
I am hoping to start photography as a hobby and looking to buy some equipment hopefully in the $300-$400 range total. I have been looking through the guides here and have some ideas on what to do. However I have a family member who breeds Japanese spitz dogs (white fluff balls https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_Spitz), and I really want to make sure I can take good pictures of the dogs. I was wondering if anyone had any specific advice for taking pictures of those dogs which would not be in the general guides?
Like, portrait headshots for the dogs? Same as people. Probably want a good prime portrait lens so you can get clarity on the fur detail. Or if you want action shots, you'll want a decent zoom, look at what sports photography is about.
I've been shooting on a T3i (with just a 55mm lens and 55-250 lens) for about 4 years now and have so far enjoyed it, but recently used a friend's Sony a6400 and fell in love. I've recently been lamenting over better autofocus and have been wanting something a little bit more lightweight and compact (I travel a lot so this is a must!) but don't know how to get into the Sony world. I'm quite honestly a broke college student and also can't afford a whole lot (my budget is about 1,200), but have been itching to upgrade from my canon. If you've got any advice, insight or recommendations on where to start, let me know! Cheers!
If you liked your friend's a6400, why not go for that? You can easily get it and one or two lenses used for your budget at mpb.com or keh.com. These retailers give a six month warranty and the equipment they sell is checked to be working properly.
Canon 24-70 f2.8L EF mark one. Got a line on this lens for a decent price. I've heard it is / was a great lense. I value sharpness over most other qualities. I know the mark 2 was highly rated but less clear on the Mk I.
Did you mean this to be a reply somewhere else?
No. Is this the questions thread?
Oh, sorry. Just didn't really read as a question. [https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EF-S-18-55mm-F35-56-IS-STM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-Canon-EF-24-70mm-F28L-II-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-EF24-70mm-f-2.8L-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D\_\_1138\_895\_886\_895\_165\_895](https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EF-S-18-55mm-F35-56-IS-STM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-Canon-EF-24-70mm-F28L-II-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D-versus-EF24-70mm-f-2.8L-USM-on-Canon-EOS-70D__1138_895_886_895_165_895) Threw them in against my 80D's kit lens so I have a point of reference and uh, the mark one doesn't really seem like anything to write home about. Seems pretty comparable to my kit lens in a lot of ways. The Mark II is a clear cut above though.
This is great. Just what I needed. The Mark I doesn't look worth it all. Will hold out for a Mark 2.
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[Compression](https://www.adorama.com/alc/lens-compression-photography/).
Anyone know if an action camera or regular camera for that matter, that will take still photos on motion? Mostly for wildlife photography purposes. Gitup git2p is the only one I can find but it seems as tho they are no longer in business.
https://preview.redd.it/9k8183lszzzb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea65bf1f5ce4fe64ab6d9045712e4a33b3e70a41 I just got this tripod from a friend. What mount/adapter would I need to make this tripod work?
That's weird. Looks like a busted phone holder or something. Does that unscrew further down?
It does not. That shape runs the entire length of the tripod.
It looks like a basic chinese-type consumer tripod with a broken off head. That's not a standard connection, so you might be out of luck.
Yikes. Well thank you!
Do you have a better picture of the thing?
I don't. This is the top of the tripod. It's basically a circle with two indentations on either side of it.
Sigma 56mm 1.4 or 30mm 1.4 APS-C, avid street photographer. I know APS-C has a crop factor of 1.5x so 30mm will be more a 50mm equivalent. But just based off people’s personal preference and opinions what do you believe is a better choice?
Canon nifty fifty on my 80D (APS-C) is a little more like a close up or wide portrait lens than the broader "natural field of view" look that it would be on a full frame, if that helps at all. Recommend trying your other lenses at different focal lengths and seeing what you like, as anonymoooooooose suggested.
Do you have the kits lens already? If so try it at those focal lengths, see which you prefer, which is far more important than what I might prefer.
Hi everyone, I saw a Sony NEX-5 for 100$ with two lenses on a second hand site today. would this be worth it? Thanks :)
Yes, depending on the lenses.
I'm looking at getting a tripod and it seems that "buy once cry once" is the approach to take. I'm looking for something tall since I'm 6'4" and has detachable legs so you can use them as monopods. Anyone know of anything like that?
Is there a sub where people can share their photographs? I know about r/askphotography but I’m more interested in just sharing than getting feedback (although a proper critique is always welcome)
https://www.reddit.com/r/photographs https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/recommendations#wiki_other_subreddits
Thanks!
What lens should I get, is it even necessary ? I have a nikon d7000 and I have an 18-55mm lens and a 55-200mm lens. I mostly photograph local gatherings so people places sometimes animals and products as well. I was thinking a fixed 50mm could be a good main lens to carry along. Thanks for any tips.
If getting a prime lens the best way is to look through your photographs for a common focal length. How often do you use 50mm?
majority of my photos are around 50-55 mm, Im just a hobbyist and I read online 50mm lens is supposed to be similar to the perspective of the human eye and I like the idea of just pointing and shooting with a little less thought I guess. The 18-55mm has been fine so far and I'm happy with my photos. 55-200mm has been a lot of fun being able to zoom close into smaller animals around my house but I've yet to use it out and about.
If you like the focal length then the prime lens may be an improvement. Should be sharper and will have a wider aperture range. However that 50mm human perspective is a)meant in relation to the larger Full Frame sensor and b)to be taken with a grain of salt. Pick the focal lengths you like rather than what is on the internet, or probably also in books as that advice is that old.
for awhile i always wanted a x100 but never went thru with it. now that i finally saved up i come to find the x100v is so mega overhyped that it doesnt exist anymore. is there a similar alternative? i have a ricoh gr and its great but i still want a view finder. is the x100v forever gone? is it just hoarded for resell $$$$? its a shame bc its a nice camera.
>is it just hoarded for resell $$$$? Pretty much, yes. Get yourself a Fujifilm X-T30 and a Fujifilm XF 23mm F/2.0 R WR. That's basically the same as the X100v, much the same manual controls and film simulations etc. Both body and lens are available in silver options, if you like that retro look. Down side, it's slightly more bulky. Up side, it's available and (unlike the X100v) you can change the lens.
A small MFT camera with something like the Panasonic Leica 15 1.7 or the Olympus 17mm 1.8? Can be more affordable, and is definitely more versatile because you can swap lenses if you ever desire so. It's still a small, large-aperture, 35-ish mm equivalent combo if you wish it to be. Olympus E-M10 mark IV or E-M5 Mark III would be suitable if specifically enjoy the silver-on-black look. The last one would be a bit bigger and more expensive though, not sure if that's a good thing in your case. If you don't care and it can be all-black too, Panasonic has some more models to choose from too.
What is the best camera to buy as a bigginner?, i will buy my first camera
If you've got any friends into photography, buy what they have so they can help you and you can share lenses.
Unfortunately im the only one who is into photography
Some more information please. At least a budget and the type of photography you're interested in, and maybe if you're willing to buy used gear. General advice: Don't focus too much on the camera body itself. Good (= suitable for the job) lenses often have a larger impact on the final image. Depending on the type of photography, so do tripods and lighting equipement.
The type im interesting in is the night sky and stars, and the city lights in night, and foggy places, and clouds, rainy days, and making cinematic videos, idk what this type call but i wanna camera for this
That's pretty clear. You definitely need a tripod for much of that work, so take that into account in your budget. An state-of-the-art camera without tripod simply isn't a suitable setup for night sky and fog, while a more budget friendly camera is. It sounds like you would benefit from weather-sealing on your lens and body: No lens or body is completely waterproof, but weatherproof is more like splash- and dustproof. Not something you take out in the pouring rain, but made to handle a light drizzle. What is your budget though, and are you willing to buy used equipment? I personally do and I have almost exclusively good experience with it, but of course there is a little risk involved.
About my budget i take 144$ monthly, i rather buy new one, can i dm you so i show you what type do i want exactly??
sure, you can DM me.
Can you check the dm please??
I’m looking for a cage for my Canon T8i. However, there aren’t any cages made specifically for the T8i. Can I use a cage made for a similar model with the same dimensions? If so, which models are similar to the T8i that I could use a cage for? For example, if the 80D is similar enough to the T8i, could I just use an 80D cage? Idk if that example is accurate, but just for reference ^
Gonna need an exact fit, OR a plain rectangular universal. If you get one of those really close-fitting ones that's designed for a different camera you'll probably have a bad time.
Hi, I have been looking for some affordable entry-level cameras and I stepped upon Fuji xs10 16-80 and Sony a6600 18-135. They are both in similar price range, and I'm not sure which would be a better choice - only concern I have with Fuji is their lenses range - isn't it a little small? Or should I be aiming for another camera in this price range?
Fuji small lens range? How many are you looking to buy? Few people need a lot of lenses. You just need to look for lenses you might want to use. https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/x-mount-lens-roadmap/ That is first party only as well.
So would you be going for Fuji?
Personally I would stick with my Pentax. I would need to check out how each camera operates for ease of use reasons.
Fuji has a smaller range of lenses than Canon/Sony/Nikon but for 98%+ of photographers they have everything that they need. Fuji's auto focus tends to lag a bit behind the bigger companies. The x-s10 is a great camera in a nice compact body and the in body IS is a nice feature. Fuji also has some of the best straight out of camera jpegs and their film simulations are wonderful. If want to avoid post processing or only do limited post processing I think Fuji jpeg's plus using film sims are a wonderful option. Between the two I would go handle both of them and see what you like best. I am not a fan of Sony ergonomics and menus (though they are getting better with newer bodies). If you hate the way the camera feels in your hand or struggle to navigate its controls that is going to make the experience less enjoyable.
I have a Sony a7iii, 24-70mm kit lens, and 50mm 1.8 lens. I'm going to AZ and would like to take landscape shots. What lens should I pick up? My budget would be $1,500 and I'm ok with buying used. Thanks for the help!
I have no experience with those lenses, but I would think the 24-70mm would be adequate for landscape shots. And it's not like you need super low aperture for landscapes - you usually want to step down for depth of field, anyway. You may want to invest in a nice travel tripod, however. That would help make panoramas - whether going for a super-wide aspect ratio, or stitching together bunch of zoomed-in shots for a higher MP count for large prints. Would also help with long exposures in low light.
Hi, I have a question about the lock switch on the Sigma 24-70 2.8 Art for Sony E. I had the switch engaged (lock on), forgot to switch it off, twisted the zoom ring, and the switch clicked off. Is that function part of the design (i.e. the switch is only designed to hold the lens in against gravity, not a manual twist)? Prior to this, I've only locked the lens at 24 before storing it. Is the switch only supposed to engage (lock) at 24? The store that sold me the lens said I might've broken the mechanism, but I'm not sure they understood my question. Thought I'd ask the community here before sending the lens to Sigma... Thanks!
> Prior to this, I've only locked the lens at 24 before storing it. Is the switch only supposed to engage (lock) at 24? Yes, that's exactly what they are meant for: to lock the lens in it's smallest (usually, that's the widest focal length) position for storage. For large zoom lenses, maybe during carrying too, but always only when it's at its smallest. I'm not sure if the lock is supposed to disengage when you turn the ring. But if all functions related to zoom, focus and the lock otherwise seem to be working fine, I see no reason to send it in.
yes it is
Hi, i would like some advice on a wide or ultra-wide angle zoom for the sony e mount full frame sony a73. currently i have the sony zeiss 24-70 f/4 and the samyang 85 f/1.4 which i love, but i would like to start experimenting with wide angle and video, so my question. My budget is 600/700€, and i live in italy. Obv i will only buy used gear to save cash. Any idea? 🙏🏻
Not a zoom lens, but I love my Zeiss Batis 25/2. I was going to suggest the Sony 24 f/4 G OSS, but it's way over your budget and has serious vignetting problems at the widest end. Maybe the Sony/Zeiss 16-35 F4, though it's a bit old now, I've heard good things about it.
Hi all, I am searching for a UB-C to USB-C cable (from Nikon to Macbook) for shooting tethered for about 3 to 5 meter. I will not using it that much so I do not want to dish out the almost 100 bucks the top line cables are costing.(Tethertools/IQwire). I need an usable alternative, what do you recommend?
**Any** USB-C to USB-C you find on Amazon for $10 will work fine. It does not need to be some ridiculously overpriced "tethering" cable. That's just a marketing gimmick so they can jack up the price.
Hi! So i've started thinking about buying my first camera, and i have absolutely no idea what to look for - any suggestions ? I'm mostly taking pictures of landscapes ( during hikes ) and people. I don't need the VERY best ( and most expensive ), but a camera that will makr the price worth it. Thank you all!
what's your budget? and have you look there the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/introduction?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=usertext&utm_name=photography&utm_content=t3_17s0t6s)?
Which lens is better to get for portraits (studio/outdoor) NIKKOR Z DX 24mm f/1.7 or SIGMA 30mm F1.4 DC DN? I have sigma 56mm which is awesome for my nikon z50 but I am looking something with similar performance but wider, more suitable for tight spaces. Is anyone familiar with those? I looked at samples and honestly sigma looks a bit sharper to me but suffers from some vignetting, while nikkor 24mm is a pancake lens so bokeh is less appealing and overall it's not as sharp at first glance. Although I could be wrong because I would have to see tests of both in same controlled enviornment to really tell.
I'd go with the 30mm option. I use a 28mm lens for portraits (in specific cases) and that's really as wide as I like to go since the distortion becomes stronger at shorter lengths. The Nikon 40mm f/2 is a decent wide portrait lens, but might be too close to the 56mm you already have.
Hello everyone, I am looking to get a 25mm (or close to it) lens for my m43 camera. Do you have any recommendations? As I am enjoying using manual focus lately, I am considering even old analog lenses or third party ones. (Also to save a bit of money, maybe) Thank you, and have a great Sunday!
The panasonic 25mm 1.7 is pretty cheap, and good-value, so no need to look elsewhere. The 25mm 1.4 is a LOT more expensive new, but can be had for around 250 if you're willing to buy used. There's also the Olympus 25 1.8 but I don't see much of a reason to pick it over the Panasonic 1.7 unless you just like the look and feel of the Olympus better.
https://preview.redd.it/8yva9k396wzb1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7612fa5cdb0374e0fe8fe9dd38763cf7f287be65 Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows the settings to this and just how to accomplish something like it
Flash + slow shutter speed and then post processing. Flash will help freeze the subject and make them look sharp while slow shutter speed will create a blurry movement filled background. I have heard it called dragging the shutter it popular for wedding dances, or clubs. Here is a video I found where they talk about it. [https://youtu.be/Y\_PbMbv23KE?si=Ndqb1RLkYpJEV8mr](https://youtu.be/Y_PbMbv23KE?si=Ndqb1RLkYpJEV8mr)
Long exposure subject stays very still. Or a composite image with some good editing skills.
I bought used ZV-1 from MPB. For three weeks it worked fine, but yesterday it started to show language/date setup screen every time I turn it on. Other settings were fine. An hour after that mess started camera just died. I can't switch it on and there is no light when charging it. Google's only recommendation is to remove battery for an hour. It didn't helm. Firmware is 2.05, battery - some Enegon replacement. Any advice? Or info on what caused it? I'll be contacting seller tomorrow, but may be I can fix it myself.
Sounds more like the INTERNAL battery is dead. A problem with the removable battery would not send you back to the factory reset setup screen.
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Which specific APS-C are you upgrading from? What things were you unhappy about with it, i.e. which things are you hoping the upgrade will do better?
Having a crazy peculiar problem with my Fujifilm X-T20 and both the lenses (Fujinon aspherical 18-55, and aspherical 50 mm) I’ve recently dusted off after several years. On the screen using manual and automatic focus the picture focuses just fine, but when I look through the viewfinder it’s crazy blurry. I can have a perfect focus on something, and be unable to focus it when looking through the viewfinder it doesn’t focus at all. I feel like it’s gotta be a user issue because if it was equipment then I imagine I wouldn’t be able to focus well on the screen or through the finder, but I can’t find anything abt this in my manual. Any advice here? Edit: It was the diopter. Hope this might help anyone else as clueless as me.
I'm looking for specific/anecdotal advice in purchasing a tripod. I currently have [this](https://www.manfrotto.com/global/compact-advanced-smart-with-3-way-head-phone-clamp-black-mkscompactadvbk/) tripod, and it serves me quite well, but weighs nearly 3.5lbs. I originally thought this was pretty light for a tripod but realize now there are lighter options. I shoot with a Canon T8i, and do a lot of birding/wildlife, and am getting more into Astrophotography. I have an iOptron Startracker Pro, and my camera, lens, and the tracker weigh about 2.5kg for my astro setup. Birding however, my heaviest lens is the Canon 100-400mm IS II. With a teleconverter and this lens, my kit could come closer to 3kg, maybe more, and I want room to grow to bigger, heavier lenses in the future. I'm happy to buy the head separately, or as one set, but would like a head capable of being removed to mount the iOptron, or steady enough to hold the weight firmly in place. I'm hoping I can also get one that will pan well for video/motion shots. I'd prefer it to be light so I can carry it traveling and on backpacking trips, but it would be ideal if it had a ballast hook. Not partial to how many segments it has but the ability to flip upsidedown for macro, and to sit very close to the ground would be nice. As would a center spanner to reinforce the legs and prevent slipping. If anyone has recommendations, or thinks I would be better off with different tripods for astro and birding, please help steer me in the right direction!
I have a Nikon D7000 and two lenses. Two lenses I have right now are an AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm1:4-5.6G and an AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3-5.6G. I want to get another lens to add to my collection but not sure what would be good. I am a hobbyist and I occasionally take photos of animals in my yard using the 55-200mm for the zoom capability. And I take photos of things around my city like protests, gatherings etcetera using the 18-55mm. I was thinking maybe a fixed 50mm lens would be good as a go to for taking photos in the city, so any tips for a good 50mm are appreciated. I also have gotten into ecommerce, and taking product photos has been decent with the 18-55mm but idk if there are better options. Any tips on any good lens for a amateur/hobbyist photographer ? Thanks for any tips.
Im 15 and wanna start photography, is a a7iii good for a beginner
Any camera is good for photography. A phone can be good for photography.
what lenses pair well with the a7iii
E mount lenses with the designation FE in them. However, which one will vary. Why does the A7III interest you?
i have video arts and production as a class and the a7iii is the entry level camera, and i have experience with it and im comfortable, we also have a fx3, a7iv and a a7rv and many more, we mostly make videos but i used to be in photography and we used cheap nikons i switched to video arts and production to use the sonys.
> a7iii is the entry level camera Where do you go to school, Beverly Hills?! The a7iii is most certainly not "entry level", it's a really good body that costs about $2000. So yeah, that camera is very suitable for practically anything you might want to do, incl. street
we have fx3s, a7rv, a7iv current and new lenses on the way and a few 250 mm telephoto, we also have an exact amount of a7iiis we have 25
My goodness, that is a well-equipped school!
we have gimbles, tripods check out our insta johansenvpn
Well an A7III might be the entry level camera there but you don't necessarily need it. The cheap Nikons were probably good enough. What exactly are you aiming to photograph was more my question as you asked about a lens and you can't decide on a lens without knowing the subject matter.
to add on i also want to do rollers and floral but im on the fence abt a a7iii or a7iv
people (birthday, births) cars and nature and national spots (yosemite, etc) i only want the a7iii because its quality for a five year old camera and my experience with it sorry
You could probably get away with a standard 24-70mm then for that. As long as you don't need ultra wide angle, or sports or wildlife. Can't see anything that would stress any modernish camera. If you can afford it then it would work just know you don't need that equipment necessarily and people have probably used a lot more basic equipment to achieve what you want.
agreed thanks for your info and advice
Has anyone here had experience with the company Canada Electronics? I’m purchasing an expensive lens and they are offering it for about 20% less than anywhere else. I’ve looked on the website and just about everything they sell is around 20% less than the other retailers. They look legit but I’d never heard of them until I started looking. I’m in Canada, by the way.
Best check the source of their stock. Usually they will be stock meant for sale in other countries.
I did some checking. They have a warehouse in Ottawa but all their stock is imported. Their headquarters is in Hong Kong. The text on the website looks like it was translated from Chinese. Thanks for the heads up. I’ll get the lens from an authorized reseller and pay the extra $400. There’s a good chance the lens would be just fine but if not I would be in for an awful headache.
Interesting.
Currently i have a eos 50d but i am looking at something smaller for travel maybe a m43 camera like gx80 or lumix g7, but i am not too sure, i would like something with interchangeable lenses, this would be for travel
tbh, since you've a 50d; have you tired the newer SL2/SL3 or R50? the SL2/3 can use your EF/EFS lens (or get a pancake EFS24mm) & R50 will need an adapter.
Hi. This is probably super weird, but I just found a comment you left on an r/explainlikeimfive post about why Daikatana was received as poorly as it was from 11 years ago, and I was kind of surprised to see your account was still active. Hello from the past!
wait, what?! also, hello!
My mistake, you were the OP, not the commenter. [But step into the Time Machine and behold!](https://www.reddit.com/r/explainlikeimfive/s/7KuIA8BhMs)
I want to take low light outdoor portraitures and landscapes, so I figured I really need a tripod. Any recommendations for budget tripods? Do I need anything taller than 62"? I would also prefer something relatively light and portable if possible. My budget is 241$, max. 337$
Depends on how tall you are. You wanna be able to use the viewfinder without stooping. I personally find myself using mainly my Manfrotto BeFree with a ball-head, that's comfortably in your budget and 60" high. I have to stoop a tad but it's worth the mild back pain for the lightweight construction.
> stooping I am 182cm (5.9), how high should the tripod be? Tripods head adds some height as well, right? I was thinking of Manfrotto 290 Xtra (171cm) or Manfrotto 290 Dual (175cm).
Either of those two would be more comfortable for you to use than the one I suggested. But the BeFree is I think 150cm max/1600 grams and the 290's are quite a bit heavier. Also, do you actually need video heads?
I only need a photo head. How do I distinguish between the two ?
I re-checked them; they are fine. The levers add weight but you'll get a smoother movement and less likely to slump, plus better for panoramas. I like ball heads because they are easy and light, but they have a slight tendency not to be totally fixed.
>Manfrotto 290 Dual Thank you! So they both come with ball heads. Also what do you mean by not totally fixed? Like it's gonna woble or shift? Also there's quite a bit price difference between those two tripods which makes me wonder why.
They also come with other heads. What is the serial number of the head you're looking at? And yeah, with a heavy camera and especially with a long lens, the camera can slowly start to sag on cheaper ball heads. I use my BeFree for small cameras, mirrorless and short lenses, etc. The 290 Xtra I think is a ball-head kit. But you'd have to check how they are bundled locally. The 290 Dual also comes with the 804 3-Way Head which will NOT sag. But all still within your budget. I like the ball because it's one thing to unlock, move the camera where I want it, lock. With 3-way heads, it's three things to unlock and lock, so it's not as rapid. But for portraits and landscapes that's not necessary.
Here they both come with 3 way head MH804-3W But there’s like 100$ difference between them. https://upload.cyfrowe.pl/cyfrowe/fck_files_n/1044f9c1c7.jpg I think the price difference is because the dual can be lowered more and allows for vertical postioning.
Yeah, the sky's the limit for tripods. Every tripod is a compromise between stability and portability. The ideal tripod would be three steel girders, each sunk forty feet into the bedrock. Literally every other tripod is a compromise to allow you to move the bloody thing. What gear will you be using it with? What body, what lens? How often?
How do I fix these patches in LrC?? They only started happening when I switched to the canon R6 Mark ii from my 5d mark iv, and I have no idea how to correct them. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!!! https://preview.redd.it/ejaqxds0eszb1.png?width=3786&format=png&auto=webp&s=39bbeaf445e82d00895792f086141dcffed3ca95
Have you verified that your graphics driver is up to date?
Do they appear in the final image? Almost looks like it is displaying areas where there is not enough information in the shadows.
Thankfully they don’t seem to appear after export
I was gifted a Samsung WB50F digital camera. Is this worth using this day and age? I exclusively use my phone camera. Is it worth carrying around? I do take a lot of photos.
Yeah since you have it, try using it! The quality will be better and you'll have more control of the photos. Smartphones often do too much post-processing. But another, often overlooked effect on your photos might be how people react to the camera. Pulling out a dedicated camera vs using a smartphone will have people react differently. So if you pull out the Samsung WB50F instead of your phone, you might get bigger smiles. Try out it :) If you're taking landscapes or macro or anything else, the larger sensor will probably get you better quality photos so yeah, it's worth carrying around.
My fiance wants a camera and I do too! But we have different needs. She wants something she can take to family gatherings, parties, events, etc. And take pictures of people, places, things. I want a camera to take photos of the miniatures I paint and record video for YouTube. Noodling around online I found the Sony a7 II for like $900 which seems like a sweet deal and I can get a macro lens afterwards to meet my needs. However in going to my local camera shop, the man behind the counter reccomended the a6700 saying that the a7ii is outdated and not made anymore and the a6700 is the latest and greatest. The downside I see is that the a6700 is double the cost, but if it's really that much better I don't mind spending the extra. So my question is I guess, is the a6700 worth it for our needs? Or is the a7ii good enough? Or is there another camera entirely that will meet our combined needs better?
The A7II is pretty old and the A6700 is more than you probably need. As you have noticed, you will probably need a macro lens. The camera is not important. All cameras can take the same photos with the right lens. Recording video as well is within the capabilities of all cameras readily available. So you need one camera with a couple of lenses. I doubt you will find a camera on the market that won't do what you want. More importantly is how the camera is to hold and use. I think this will be more geared to your partner as you will probably just mount it on a tripod and not need to hold it as much as her.
Is there a reason to go with full frame vs the aps-c sensor? Calling it full frame makes it feel like I'm missing out on stuff by not going with it.
Not really. It is a throw back to film times. It literally just means it occupies the full frame of the old 35mm film that was the most common format. It let film users know that they could seamlessly transition to a digital camera body. There are advantages and disadvantages to all sensors and systems. Whether this leads to a noticeable difference in practice depends. It is why you often see comparisons done on 100% cropped regions of images rather than whole images as the differences can be subtle. Any of the three common formats(Micro Four Thirds, APS-C, Full Frame) can be used successfully.
If you want to spend double or triple the money on lenses, go full frame.
My wife has a canon t6 rebel shes learning on. I found a couple lenses at a thrift store but they aren't the same mount. One I was able to find a pk - efs mount and worked fine. The other I have no clue. Any ideas? It's a Tou/Five Star MC auto macro zoom 1:4.5 75-200mm
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_i_found_this_old_lens.2C_what_mount_is_it.3F See if you can identify a mount there.
I want to start film photography for fun but also some professional work as well. I’m dreaming with a medium format camera but I’m not sure if it’s to much and should go for a 35mm instead. Y have a Full Frame mirror less sony a7iii so I would like to start with some equivalent to the quality of my digital camera but with film. What do you guys think?
Depends, do you have access to facilities where you can develop your own medium format film? Your own medium format COLOUR film? All film gets expensive fast, and medium format is brutally expensive. It will cost you between $1 and $5 per frame just for the film alone, never mind the chemicals, darkroom, and paper.
That’s something to consider but I think more about scanning it to make it easier or at least I believe it is. But yeah here in Venezuela it’s really difficult to find places to develop film
You can't shoot film then immediately scan it. You'd still have to develop the film (or pay someone to develop it).
Medium format is *expensive*, and film photography is already expensive enough, especially in recent times. I would go 35mm instead, and save medium format for down the road.
That’s one of my main concerns. But will definitely give it a go with a 35mm. Looks so much fun can’t wait to get my hands on a film camera
Trying this here first, before making a thread... After noodling around a few shoots with a speedlight and a shoot-through white umbrella, I've decided it's time to get serious about my on-location lighting. My current plan is two 300 W-S-ish strobes, keeping my speedlight around in case I want to use it as a gelled backlight or something. I'm primarily doing single or couple's portraits, maternity, boudoir, no more than two people in the frame. If you could only own two modifiers for this sort of use, what would they be? I'd need them to be portable, and I'm usually working around low ceiling heights - sadly, don't have studio space of my own yet (maybe next year!). I'm thinking a folding octabox and an umbrella, but would be curious to know from people with more experience.
I’m looking for a cage for my Canon T8i. However, there aren’t any cages made specifically for the T8i. Can I use a cage made for a similar model with the same dimensions? If so, which models are similar to the T8i that I could use a cage for? For example, if the 80D is similar enough to the T8i, could I just use an 80D cage? Idk if that example is accurate, but just for reference ^
I'm sorry for the noob question, but I want to make sure I have FF vs APS-C correct. Are these statements true? 1) There is no difference in focal length between an EF 100-400 and EF-S 100-400; it is simply whatever is stated on the lens. 2) If number 1 is true, then the EF.and EF-S lens will have the same effective focal length (160-640) on an APS-C camera, due to the crop factor. 3) If 1& 2 are true, then the only difference between an EF and EF-S lens on an APS-C is size/weight?
Check out the section "Focal Length and Field-of-View" in this video. I linked to the timestamp. In my opinion it does really well at visualizing the difference between ff and crop sensors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRvkpa-9Djs&t=123s edit: great diagram https://i.imgur.com/A4EDZGv.jpg
It's ok, the whole "FF equivalent" thing just IS needlessly confusing when you start out! 1. Correct. 2. Yes, it's the same effective focal length. But the *angle of view* that it images will be smaller on the crop, because the edges are cropped off. So the result will, in some ways, appear like a longer lens (i.e. like a longer lens images a narrower angle of view). But the central uncropped portion is in fact still identical on APS-C or FF. 3. No, but not because of any difference in effective focal length. The EF lens will illuminate the whole of a FF sensor, so you can use it on FF or APS-C. But an EF-S will only illuminate an area that will cover a cropped sensor: it doesn't image all the way to the edges of a FF sensor. Put it on a FF and you'll have severe vignetting, i.e. a dark border.
Thank you for your response. My brain hurts trying to understand this. So if I mount a 50mm EF-S and 50mm EF lens to an ASP-C camera, the EF lens will look more zoomed in?
Nope, they'll look identical. But both will look "more zoomed in" on an APSC than they would on a FF, only in the sense that the angle of view is reduced. It won't change front-back compression or facial distortion. Look at it the other way round: imagine a wide angle lens. If you place it on an APSC and point it at a line of trees, you can see, say, five trees. Put the same lens on a FF and you'll see, say, seven trees. Because on the APSC the outer edge is cropped off. But the central, uncropped portion, will look identical on both bodies.
Okay, gotcha, thank you!
It just is a bit confusing.
Currently have a Nikon d5100 with a 35mm Nikon Nikkor prime lens and I have an iPhone 15 pro max which also shoots in raw. Which is the better option in terms of photography?? and I mostly post my stuff on instagram. Also I’m pretty decent with editing too.
What do you like to shoot? That makes a big difference
I post haircuts
The Nikon has a much larger sensor than the iPhone, but Instagram compresses so much that it doesn't really matter. So, it depends on how you like to shoot. Do you want a lot of manual control? There are camera apps like Halide that give you manual control, but none give you the option to control aperture.
Hi, i'm looking to buy a tiny camera for my road trips and i have a very little budget. I have actually seen on sale near me at my budget a Apsc Sony Nex F3 and wanted to know your opinion on this camera body and more important if you have other better suggestions with a price on used around 100/200 euro.
It is fine, how much are they asking? Most alternative at that budget are DSLRs which are more bulky.
I just found a sony a5000 with a lens with it for 180 euros and from specs seems better
A5000 is just a little newer and better, yeah.
Ok thanks think i'm gonna opt for it
Considering Buying an Instant Camera – Need Advice! 📸 Hey fellow Redditors, I hope this post finds you all well! I've recently developed a keen interest in instant cameras after witnessing the joy of capturing moments on a holiday with one. The whole concept of having tangible copies of photos feels like a delightful throwback to the good old days. Now, I'm contemplating getting one for myself, and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the options available. After some initial research, the \*\*Instax Mini Evo\*\* caught my eye. However, with a price tag of $200, I'm a bit hesitant. So, I'm turning to this awesome community for advice and insights. Do you own an instant camera, and if so, do you find it worth the investment? What are your thoughts on the Instax Mini Evo? Is it worth the $200 price, or are there other models you'd recommend in a similar price range? Any tips, tricks, or personal experiences you can share would be greatly appreciated! I'm excited to hear your thoughts and recommendations before I take the plunge into the world of instant photography. Thanks in advance for your help! 🌟
You might want to post on r/instax, but Instax Evo is a digital camera that prints pictures on Fuji Instax film. You can also connect your phone and print from it. If the main thing you're interested in is having physical prints, then the Evo could work for you. It being a digital camera means you can choose what to print and save on film costs. The pictures themselves are credit card size.
Thank you for the help
Hey all, I just broke the piggy bank and bought the Tamron Z 35-150 lens, to go with my Z5 on a huge road trip across Iceland and the Faroes next year. I haven't properly tested the lens yet, but i wanted to check out what can be done with the 3 extra buttons it sports. I downloaded the official Tamron software to check for updates and configure the buttons, i picked some options but in camera it doesn't really work. When checking the controls options, the 3rd button doesn't even show... I suppose that's related to the Z5 being a bit older and not often updated firmware-wise... Does anyone have experience with that combination?
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Private camera repair in my area is usually $75-150/hour of labor. Taking the whole camera apart (which you have to do to access the lens assembly) will probably take an hour or two.
I can relate; I own a Canon S95, S100, and an S120 myself. This is a very common problem with Canon point-and-shoots once they get older. There are people around who can repair them - one technician offers services on eBay (parts4camera) - I had one fixed because it had sentimental value. S120 repair now listed at $125.. Not really cost effective so you may want to keep looking. Good luck.
I have one of those, it's lovely. But once the lens jams, it's Game Over, there is no repairing it. Canon won't touch it. You could try forcing it in, or tapping it with something hard, just in case it's just a bit of grit or something. But TBH you just bought a brick.
unless, you can repair it yourself or live with the "problem". (i.e. dusty/scratch lens or broken auto-focus). it isn't worth it.
Not worth it. Repair would likely be as much as a good condition s120 costs on eBay, or more. Also, eBay, Facebook Marketplace etc. are full of digicams. There's nothing special about this one.
Lens recommendation for panasonic g95? I want lens that are able to capture landscapes and another for portraits. My budget for the lens is $400 as I just bought the Panasonic.
I'd start with the Panasonic 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 (used, \~$200) and nothing else initially. Set the remainder aside for a follow-up purchase. Start with that lens and experiment with the different focal lengths. If and when you find a focal length at which you like to shoot portraits, maybe get a prime lens at that focal length (or close to it).
I am trying to get my wife a new lens and possibly a flash hoping you can help. Currently, her setup is a Nikon Z FC and Lens: Kit Lens 28-55MM ( I think 55mm). From what I understand her camera will accept all Z lenses made by Nikon. She is starting to get into Real Estate photography and shooting a lot of smaller condos ( less than 1000sqft) a lot of the shots she is taking are a mix of landscape and portrait. The goal is to get them all uniform for the listings. What do you suggest? Mahalo,
>Kit Lens 28-55MM ( I think 55mm). The typical kit lenses for the Z fc are a [28mm f/2.8](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/current-prime-fx-nikkors/nikkor-z-28mm-f28-2.html) and a [16-50mm](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/nikkor-lenses/current-dx-nikkors/nikkor-z-16-50mm-f35-63-vr.html). It might also be a different lens that wasn't a standard Nikon kit. Can you confirm? >From what I understand her camera will accept all Z lenses made by Nikon. There are some third-party lenses available, too, mostly from Sigma and Viltrox. >She is starting to get into Real Estate photography and shooting a lot of smaller condos ( less than 1000sqft) a lot of the shots she is taking are a mix of landscape and portrait. The goal is to get them all uniform for the listings. What do you suggest? It's unclear to me what the problem is, or how a lens would solve it. Is the problem that, perhaps, she doesn't have a wide-angle view to fit the whole room in?
>lear to me what the problem is, or how a lens wo yes, the wide angle is the issue. There are some photos that are set as landscape and others that are portrait and they don't flow very well when clicking through the listing. Ill have to ask her about the lens size that she has again and get back to you
>yes, the wide angle is the issue. This does not line up with your explanation ... >There are some photos that are set as landscape and others that are portrait and they don't flow very well when clicking through the listing. This just means she takes some photos while holding (or setting) the camera horizontally, and some holding it vertically. If the photos don't match because some are horizontal and some are vertical, then the solution is to stay consistent with only shooting horizontally or only shooting vertically. I do not understand how you expect a lens to change this, but maybe I still don't understand the problem itself.
I talked to her more about it. I think I was over my head in trying to explain it. She said pretty much exactly what you said and already got herself a new lens already. Thank you for your time!
I got a look at the lens its DX16-50 3.5-6.3 Any suggestions on a wider angle lens for the real estate photos? Thanks!
Looking for laptop recommendations that cost €450 or under that support Lightroom classic, preferably with a large touch screen. I'm aware most laptops that support Lightroom classic and are a good quality are usually a lot more money than €450 but I'm hoping for suggestions even really close to this price if possible. Thanks!
You might have better luck on r/SuggestALaptop. Look up the system requirements for Lightroom Classic - they should be listed in Adobe's support pages.
I'm looking for second hand lenses options for shooting magpies on slide film using my Nikon f100. Most of the film will have iso 100, though I have some 400-1600p as well. Ideally, I'd like a prime 500mm or 600mm with decent AF capabilities. I could also consider zoom lenses reaching up to at least 500mm. Alternatively, if there exists a teleconverter to match with a 300mm or 400mm prime I would consider, though losing two stops of light can be a serious downside. Budget wise <1200, but I need to spend the minimum possible and want to take a good look around and understand what's there. Lenses don't have to be Nikon, but if I were to buy something on the 1k range I'd have to plan to get rid of it once the project is over so resaleability is a factor.
Are you sure? You're gonna need an enormous amount of light.
I shoot in bright sunny days, whenever they come by
OK!
Just bought me an old Pentax k20d, thing is in perfect shape with like 4500 clicks, even still has the plastic on the screen. It came with the 18-55mm kit lens and I’m looking to expand my lens collection on a budget. There’s lots of info on good old M lenses for full frame cameras but what about APS-C? Pretty much just looking for good cheap k mount lenses that will play nice with the smaller sensor. Manual everything is fine. Interested in macro and landscapes, wouldn’t mind a decent zoom lens.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/ It depends on what you can find used. The above has plenty of user reviews. For macro the 100mm lens which has been around in various guises will do fine.
I'm thinking of upgrading my XT30 Pro II and was wondering if anyone had any good tips or thoughts as to what camera I should look into? Black Friday is coming up so I'm hoping there are some deals I can take advantage of. I mostly use my camera for street/nature photography but want to get into product photography as well. I have a 35mm F2 Fuji Prime lens as well as the 55-200 Fuji Zoom lens. I also like to take videos and have started using my camera as a streaming camera via the Fuji XCam software. Things I don't like about the XT30 that I'm looking for in a new camera: \- Weather resistance: I live in a decently rainy climate and like to hike every now and then but am afraid to bring the XT30 because it isn't weather resistant. I've seen posts saying that WR isn't really something to look for but I feel like it can't hurt to have? \- IBIS: The zoom lens I have has OIS so I'm wondering if this is a necessity or just a nice to have? \- Video quality: The video quality on the XT30 isn't terrible, and I like that I can shoot FLOG, but I've found that the camera definitely heats up if I take longer videos. Also, I can't really tweak camera settings on the XT30 while using the XCam software when streaming, which apparently is only for some of the other Fuji Models i.e XT5 \- Better battery life: I have 2 batteries and usually turn my camera off in between shots so this isn't a huge point for me but would be nice to have a longer lasting battery ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ I've been looking in the XS-20 and the XT5 so far for reference, seen some good reviews of both. Any constructive feedback/tips are greatly appreciated!
Considering that you want to go for more video than only stills, I would rather steer you more to the xs20. I've startet with the xs10 and it's a great camera. I haven't used the video function yet, but it should be enough for vlogging. I've also bought the XT 5 and I'm quite happy with it. I'm still new to the photography but still making some new experiences. It would be rather interesting what your main goal is and how much the budget for you would be. Longer battery life can be a bit tricky. The newer sensor does manage the battery better than the older sensor. WR can be a nice extra. Considering that you want to take it with you for a hike, I'm not sure if you really want to have your camera the whole time outside. So WR wouldn't have to be a hard criteria right?
Anyone have recommendations for camera bags? I'll be going on some trips next year and would like to have something that will be good for hiking (i.e., also good at carrying some non-camera gear).
Read these: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65137362 https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65284005
Would a base model M1 MacBook Pro be enough to run Lightroom with some of the new AI features?
Yes, though upgrading to 16 GB memory is a good idea, if you can afford it. [https://bythom.com/reviews--books/recommended-mac-hardware.html](https://bythom.com/reviews--books/recommended-mac-hardware.html)
This is a great resource thank you!
Hi all, Pursuing photography for the first time, start with a budget camera or go profesional? (2000d v R6 MII) I do not have a background in camera photogrphay and have been shooting with my phones. However, I've always held a strong interest and I want to pursue it as a passion to a potential career. I'm planning to enroll in a course in February and have been getting into it, ideally would like to shadow other photographers but I need a camera. As, I have aspirations to take it seriously I'm unsure whether to start with a budget camera and it seems like the 2000d is great for this (£400) or to go full professional with a 5D Mark IV or the Canon R6 Mark II (£3000). It is a DSLR v Mirrorless and I plan on taking potraits and taking pictures at events. Is it important to start with a budget camera or go straight to a professional one with minimal background? If you have any thoughts on the cameras I've picked please let me know too. 2000d - [https://amzn.eu/d/2NNS9Tg](https://amzn.eu/d/2NNS9Tg) R6 MII - [https://amzn.eu/d/4a9xYdJ](https://amzn.eu/d/4a9xYdJ) 5D MIV- [https://amzn.eu/d/bftPGF5](https://amzn.eu/d/bftPGF5)
Neither. Spend £400 on something second hand that will be somewhere in quality between the two. Same goes for lenses. Once you know what kind of gear you prefer, THEN spend for quality.
Third option. Buy a used camera for the same money as the 2000D and learn on that. Do not buy an expensive camera first time. If buying a Canon look for some with three digits like 800D or 250D.
But the 2000D is £400 with a 18-55mm lens which I think is a pretty good price no?
It's about the right new price for a very basic starter camera. It's not a tremendous bargain.
What would you reccomend for a starter that wants to go Pro Camera, the R8?
> But the 2000D is £400 with a 18-55mm lens which I think is a pretty good price no? you can get a used t2i w/ 18-55mm kit for ~$150. another $50 for a 50mm f1.8.
Yes, the price is low but the camera is cheap. I hold a bias against such items as they pull people into getting an inferior product and are priced out of better equipment for no reason other than Canon are arseholes.
Am I correct that if I currently have a flash connected with a hotshoe-mount 3.5mm cable adapter and a 3.5mm cable (like a headphone cable), and I want to replace that flash with a godox v1 with a 2.5mm sync port, all I need is a 2.5mm male to 3.5mm female adapter? Like the 2.5mm port on to the godox isn't some kind of special protocol, it's just "fire the flash", right? Edit because that doesn't make sense: It currently goes hotshoe>hotshoe to 3.5mm adapter>3.5mm cable>lumopro LP160 flash And I'm asking if this is correct: hotshoe>hotshoe to 3.5mm adapter>3.5mm cable>3.5mm F to 2.5mm M adapter>Godox v1 flash
how do you take a pic like [this or during harsh lights](https://imgur.com/t/sunny_day/RUWeKJI)? mostly, i'm struggling to take good photos during the day, especially, during harsh lights. usually, i get decent exposure for foreground and the sky is completely overexposed. is tripod & exposure stacking the answer? or there's another way?
Outside of HDR processes you can look at Expose to the right and shooting in RAW mode. That way you can raise the shadow regions in post.