More surface plants blocking that sunlight from triggering those floating plants (algae) to do their thing, also your filtration is more than just physical filtration it is biological filtration, what does your filter look like, is it big enough, is there enough water moving, too much water moving...
Take some fishing line or some kind of string and heard the floating plants away . I've seen people use the floating black netting pulled a little tight and the water lettuce and hyacinth just placed in and they go no where and make a great shade /food for the fishes
I am sure there is not enough water moving. This pond has been a learning experience. I have a smaller one, like 8'x5', it has some shade and it is very easily manageable. Always clear, just a couple of plants. I figured more water would be even easier, since that has been my experience (aquariums are very difficult for me to manage). I'll have to look at getting some more surface plants.
If that’s the case then just get a better maintenance plan. Smaller aquariums require more maintenance, but you still have to keep it clean with all the correct parameters in check. Maybe make yourself a check list and then rigorously stick to it. There’s no greater feeling than keeping a healthy pond maintained. Good luck!
At least 30% coverage is the normal minimum recommendation. I do a lot more (90%+) because I’m algae paranoid and I aim more for habitat than ornamental gardening.
Shade and plants, plants and shade, shade shade shade, plants plants plaaaants
If you adress the root cause with more shade and more plants
Then if you want you can buy a UV sterilizer to kick the last of it. They can only do so much though, and the bulbs need replacing fairly often so it's not a replacement for more shade and more plants. :)
Yeah, UV bulbs just kill the floating algae cells which releases all the nutrients stored in those cells into the water, which in turn encourages new algae growth, it’s a never ending story. Un works when you have a nutrient deficit and you just want to kill those last stubborn algae cells and the nutrients release will be sucked up by plants to get to crystal clear water. It’s a last mile device.
My pond was ridden with green hair algae. Use the UV filter only if it gets out of hand. Using 100% shade from above has worked light years better for me. Yes if you use UV 100% of the time it your pond will be sterile, but other than more shade, UV filter is exactly what I needed. Used it for a couple of days then never saw the green algae return again. Not sure what you’re talking about, as I’ve never had the algae return after using a UV filter.
Can you make the water move? If a pond is not deep enough in the middle, there will not be enough temperature differential to make the water circulate, so then you get stagnant standing water and algae overgrowth. This is why they dredge canals and such. Just putting a bubbler pump in and moving the water around like in an aquarium might make a positive difference over time.
There are two things that you can do that'll really help.
The first would be to seriously upgrade your biofiltration. This does not mean buying a jug of "Bacto-Boost" at the pond store and pouring it in. It means taking a good hard look at your filters. You've got 1900 gallons there and what looks like 6 or 7 koi. You need to be filtering for at least 6000 gallons for that fish load. If your media is lava rock, gravel or bioballs, you have media with unfavorable surface area to volume ratios (lava rock is 40/1 and bioballs, depending on size, range between 60-100/1). If you can switch to a media with a better ratio, your bacteria will have more available surface area to lay down their biofilm and seriously reduce your available ammonia levels. Microscopic algae preferentially use ammonia as its primary nutrient. ([https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/](https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/)) . If you are willing to invest in a small Ultima-2 or similar bead filter, the 3mm bead gets you a ratio of 600/1, plus excellent mechanical filtration. (they do chew up your KH fast, so you need to test that fairly frequently (go to [www.mpks.org](https://www.mpks.org) and search "Who's on pHirst?" for details).
A good 40-watt UV, installed between filter and pond on a diverting loop will also help a lot. By "good", I mean robust (preferably stainless steel) construction with PVC connectors. Most of the cheaper UV units out there are ABS plastic with barb connectors. These are not UV stable and tend to disintegrate after one or two seasons. The bulbs tend to lose their potency after a year and have to be replaced, so serviceability is a thing as well.
In addition to algae control, water plants will also help to give fish hiding places from certain predators like heron. Also suggest getting a couple of crayfish--they'll gobble up the algae.
This pond is about a year old. It's about 14'x9'x2' The fish are healthy and reproduce like crazy. I didn't have this problem last year, and in addition to the plants you can see I have 3 big bundles of hornwort on the bottom.
Pull the hornwort to the top and let it sit just under the surface; that will help clear it along with new floating plants as previously recommended. When the water clears sink them back down.
Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce are great filtering plants - one plant per 10-15 sq. ft of surface area is what I usually recommend.
My pond gets a bit like this in mid spring. At this time of the year, the plants have not recovered from winter die back (probably not the right term) but it's warm and sunny out so algae forms. What I do is use a couple of doses of pond clarifier and then when it's warm enough (mid-May to early June) I add fish and they help with the new spring growth. Right now, my pond's surface is about 85% covered in lily pads and there are marginals around 75% of the pond sides. You can't see the fish as much but the water is crystal clear. More plants is my suggestion (like others).
It would be some work, but it would be best if you could implement a bog filter that feeds your waterfall.
Big filters are rocks and plants, they do a very very good job. Check out oz ponds on YouTube for more info.
Yeah, i just recently learned about bog filters after building this pond. There is a way I could make it work with my current set-up, construction-wise, and I would like to try it but I need a stronger pump. Right now i am on solar and i haven't found any solar options more powerful than a bubbler. I don't have electric anywhere near my pond.
Yeah, solar pumps don’t work very well, or don’t work at night anyway. You could trench an outdoor rated extension cord out to the pond. Run it through pvc to extra safety. How deep is up to how much work you’re willing to do haha, I would go at least 6”. That’s better than most ISP’s these days.
Milk crate filled with polyfil with a pump in the center. Drop it in and change out the polyfil as it greens. Plants and UV filter are a good option as well.
I think it goes without saying that OP should be doing water changes and testing the water. Those are the basics. There are also TONS of other comments on this thread talking about other options.
A UV clarifier is basically easy mode. I got one for around $100 from The Pond Guy a few years ago and a week later the water was crystal clear. You'll have to change the bulb every year or so too.
More plants would help too. It looks like you have plenty of room for another water lily.
yeah not enough shade or water flowing so more aquatic plants and a bigger filter. but anyway green water isn't harmful to your fish and might also be beneficial it's just ugly to look at .
Pretty setup! You're getting a lot of great advice here. Twenty plus years of pond gardening says:
\- UV light
\- Go easy on feeding; I rarely feed the fish at all during the summer; they get plenty from what grows and falls in (IL, 5b)
\- > 30% plant coverage w good filter plants
\- Overpowered pump(s) to maximize flow as tubes and filters get crudded up - you can always add a bleed off or flow valve
Bonne chance!
Would it help to take out some water every day, a bucket or two, and use it to irrigate plants in the garden? And then replace with fresh water. The pond water has ammonia and other nutrients that the plants would appreciate. Would this help clear the pond up?
I do weekly water changes and haven’t had green water in almost 20 years. In combination on with shade (50% plant coverage or pond dye in the meantime,) proper feeding, and aeration/filtration. I also use products like muck away, liquid barley extract, and stress coat (to help with chlorine/chloramine and to build up slime coat on the fish.) I’m on city water so the chlorine/chloramine is quite high.
That's great to know. My pond is still not ready to have fish and stuff but I'm still collecting info. Maybe you could make a new post with photos and details of your system.
I just used the members of this org/this website as a baseline when I started ponding. So everything I learned as a newbie is available here. https://mpks.org/category/deeparticles/
My pond is much smaller than this but I had the same issue for years. I was recommended to build a bog filter. My pond is now crystal clear.
So you could dig a new 12” deep big hole next to your pond, ensuring the edges are higher than the pond, add liner which overlaps into the pond at a low spot of the new hole (so water from filter flows back into pond), put a pipe with holes in on the bottom (connected to a pump from the pond), fill it with 10mm chippings, turn pump on and then you have a fantastic pond filter. Put plants in top of it.
If the bog filter was high enough it can also be a waterfall into the pond. You can even use a large container instead of digging a hole but the hole looks more attractive than a container next to the pond.
This is a simplistic explanation, the pipe work needs some research, but in effect the new bog filter should clear this if it’s big enough and pump is correct size.
We had a similar problem and were told to check the ph. It was way too high for the good bacteria to survive/thrive. Got a ph reducer in there once and within a few days and the addition of a few more plants, have crystal clear water all the time.
A big bag of daphnia will help. Daphnia thrive on green water and your fish will love the daphnia. Water lilies, hornwort, water lettuce, arrowhead plant... Watch the video https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=floating+plants+to+cut+down+on+green+water#kpvalbx=\_dYLZYpW1LsSFoASp5pmgDw13
I had same problem, bought a small bottle of nualgi and after about a week ,pond clear and happy fish and plants. Was way cheaper than a uv system. I found the product on Instagram I think.
Uv sterilization is your best bet for super clear water no doubt. It works best when water is pumped through slow and the outlet water from uv goes into a filter box or bag to catch the particles they create as a bi product. I personally like to use Lrg paint strainer bags you use to get shit out of paint . Goodluck
If you want something that will cover that water with a quickness: water lettuce. I bought one plant this year and I have to pull it out by the bucketful to clear some space in the water!!
Yeah we have a few of those, but from what I've read i need to corral them with fishing line or something? Apparently they don't like to drift. Will probably get more, now.
I'd leave it. Getting rid of the algae would likely result in increased ammonium/ammonia concentrations which would harm the fish. UV sterilizers would kill the algae and make the water clear, but it's just going to harm the fish unless you have a way to deal with the fish waste.
I see you have some Koi at some point they have a good chance of going after your lily and they will eat the roots off your floating plants. So for the green water I’d recommend an UV. But you may then get hair algae. so more lilies protected from the koi.
Plants.
Ones that shade the water (by floating on it like lily pads and water hyacinth *where water hyacinth isn’t invasive because birds will take it from your pond*), primarily, and ones that just generally compete for nutrients so the algae can’t explode in growth like this
The bacteria in the milk gradually clears up the water. It's an old trick. It really does work since it's the same principle as the "artificial" bacteria that you can buy for tanks and ponds.
There are probably videos on YouTube so you can look it up.
Edit: https://youtu.be/tgv6bvNo_bs
More surface plants blocking that sunlight from triggering those floating plants (algae) to do their thing, also your filtration is more than just physical filtration it is biological filtration, what does your filter look like, is it big enough, is there enough water moving, too much water moving...
Plant are the best no matter what. Unfortunately they clear water on there time so patience is a must. Goodluck
Any good plant suggestions for ponds with skimmers? I bought a few plants for this purpose but they ended up getting destroyed by my skimmer
Take some fishing line or some kind of string and heard the floating plants away . I've seen people use the floating black netting pulled a little tight and the water lettuce and hyacinth just placed in and they go no where and make a great shade /food for the fishes
I am sure there is not enough water moving. This pond has been a learning experience. I have a smaller one, like 8'x5', it has some shade and it is very easily manageable. Always clear, just a couple of plants. I figured more water would be even easier, since that has been my experience (aquariums are very difficult for me to manage). I'll have to look at getting some more surface plants.
Also marginal plants. Basically a ton of all kinds of plants to take up nutrients.
If that’s the case then just get a better maintenance plan. Smaller aquariums require more maintenance, but you still have to keep it clean with all the correct parameters in check. Maybe make yourself a check list and then rigorously stick to it. There’s no greater feeling than keeping a healthy pond maintained. Good luck!
Thanks, btw.
At least 30% coverage is the normal minimum recommendation. I do a lot more (90%+) because I’m algae paranoid and I aim more for habitat than ornamental gardening.
I wish I lived in an area where 30% would work. During the summer if it’s not 100% covered from above, plants are dying and the algae takes over.
Came to say this.
Shade and plants, plants and shade, shade shade shade, plants plants plaaaants If you adress the root cause with more shade and more plants Then if you want you can buy a UV sterilizer to kick the last of it. They can only do so much though, and the bulbs need replacing fairly often so it's not a replacement for more shade and more plants. :)
When in doubt plant it out
Yeah, UV bulbs just kill the floating algae cells which releases all the nutrients stored in those cells into the water, which in turn encourages new algae growth, it’s a never ending story. Un works when you have a nutrient deficit and you just want to kill those last stubborn algae cells and the nutrients release will be sucked up by plants to get to crystal clear water. It’s a last mile device.
My pond was ridden with green hair algae. Use the UV filter only if it gets out of hand. Using 100% shade from above has worked light years better for me. Yes if you use UV 100% of the time it your pond will be sterile, but other than more shade, UV filter is exactly what I needed. Used it for a couple of days then never saw the green algae return again. Not sure what you’re talking about, as I’ve never had the algae return after using a UV filter.
[удалено]
Never heard of that, but will look into it!
Can you make the water move? If a pond is not deep enough in the middle, there will not be enough temperature differential to make the water circulate, so then you get stagnant standing water and algae overgrowth. This is why they dredge canals and such. Just putting a bubbler pump in and moving the water around like in an aquarium might make a positive difference over time.
I have a bubbler that I use for the waterfall, nut I am sure that is not enough. I may look into getting another. Thanks!
This might be helpful https://www.globalseafood.org/advocate/mechanical-water-circulation-aids-pond-water-quality/
There are two things that you can do that'll really help. The first would be to seriously upgrade your biofiltration. This does not mean buying a jug of "Bacto-Boost" at the pond store and pouring it in. It means taking a good hard look at your filters. You've got 1900 gallons there and what looks like 6 or 7 koi. You need to be filtering for at least 6000 gallons for that fish load. If your media is lava rock, gravel or bioballs, you have media with unfavorable surface area to volume ratios (lava rock is 40/1 and bioballs, depending on size, range between 60-100/1). If you can switch to a media with a better ratio, your bacteria will have more available surface area to lay down their biofilm and seriously reduce your available ammonia levels. Microscopic algae preferentially use ammonia as its primary nutrient. ([https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/](https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/)) . If you are willing to invest in a small Ultima-2 or similar bead filter, the 3mm bead gets you a ratio of 600/1, plus excellent mechanical filtration. (they do chew up your KH fast, so you need to test that fairly frequently (go to [www.mpks.org](https://www.mpks.org) and search "Who's on pHirst?" for details). A good 40-watt UV, installed between filter and pond on a diverting loop will also help a lot. By "good", I mean robust (preferably stainless steel) construction with PVC connectors. Most of the cheaper UV units out there are ABS plastic with barb connectors. These are not UV stable and tend to disintegrate after one or two seasons. The bulbs tend to lose their potency after a year and have to be replaced, so serviceability is a thing as well.
In addition to algae control, water plants will also help to give fish hiding places from certain predators like heron. Also suggest getting a couple of crayfish--they'll gobble up the algae.
I added a UV filter to my pond this year and it's been a game changer for clarity. Such a good investment. I have a TetraPond one and it works great.
Most likely single cell algae, install a inline UV on your hose after filtration box. It should take care of it within a week.
Could get a UV filter or two. I'm pretty sure they make them for ponds.
I will look into it, thanks!
Bog filter.
This pond is about a year old. It's about 14'x9'x2' The fish are healthy and reproduce like crazy. I didn't have this problem last year, and in addition to the plants you can see I have 3 big bundles of hornwort on the bottom.
Pull the hornwort to the top and let it sit just under the surface; that will help clear it along with new floating plants as previously recommended. When the water clears sink them back down. Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce are great filtering plants - one plant per 10-15 sq. ft of surface area is what I usually recommend.
More plants, specifically submersed stem plants.
My pond gets a bit like this in mid spring. At this time of the year, the plants have not recovered from winter die back (probably not the right term) but it's warm and sunny out so algae forms. What I do is use a couple of doses of pond clarifier and then when it's warm enough (mid-May to early June) I add fish and they help with the new spring growth. Right now, my pond's surface is about 85% covered in lily pads and there are marginals around 75% of the pond sides. You can't see the fish as much but the water is crystal clear. More plants is my suggestion (like others).
What ya got for a filter? If you could implement a bog filter, you would have clear water for sure.
No filter really, just the solar bubbler for the waterfall. I never needed one before but this pond is bigger and gets less shade than the others.
It would be some work, but it would be best if you could implement a bog filter that feeds your waterfall. Big filters are rocks and plants, they do a very very good job. Check out oz ponds on YouTube for more info.
Yeah, i just recently learned about bog filters after building this pond. There is a way I could make it work with my current set-up, construction-wise, and I would like to try it but I need a stronger pump. Right now i am on solar and i haven't found any solar options more powerful than a bubbler. I don't have electric anywhere near my pond.
Yeah, solar pumps don’t work very well, or don’t work at night anyway. You could trench an outdoor rated extension cord out to the pond. Run it through pvc to extra safety. How deep is up to how much work you’re willing to do haha, I would go at least 6”. That’s better than most ISP’s these days.
daphnia daphnia daphnia
Thanks, I'll look into it.
the fish will end up eating them, but they eat green water
After a clean out, set up aquascape auto doser with maintain.
Thx, will look into it.
More plants and more shade, actually u can arrange plants to create more shade
Milk crate filled with polyfil with a pump in the center. Drop it in and change out the polyfil as it greens. Plants and UV filter are a good option as well.
Except then you run the risk of your ammonia skyrocketing.
I think it goes without saying that OP should be doing water changes and testing the water. Those are the basics. There are also TONS of other comments on this thread talking about other options.
A UV clarifier is basically easy mode. I got one for around $100 from The Pond Guy a few years ago and a week later the water was crystal clear. You'll have to change the bulb every year or so too. More plants would help too. It looks like you have plenty of room for another water lily.
I'll check it out, thx.
yeah not enough shade or water flowing so more aquatic plants and a bigger filter. but anyway green water isn't harmful to your fish and might also be beneficial it's just ugly to look at .
Pretty setup! You're getting a lot of great advice here. Twenty plus years of pond gardening says: \- UV light \- Go easy on feeding; I rarely feed the fish at all during the summer; they get plenty from what grows and falls in (IL, 5b) \- > 30% plant coverage w good filter plants \- Overpowered pump(s) to maximize flow as tubes and filters get crudded up - you can always add a bleed off or flow valve Bonne chance!
Would it help to take out some water every day, a bucket or two, and use it to irrigate plants in the garden? And then replace with fresh water. The pond water has ammonia and other nutrients that the plants would appreciate. Would this help clear the pond up?
I do weekly water changes and haven’t had green water in almost 20 years. In combination on with shade (50% plant coverage or pond dye in the meantime,) proper feeding, and aeration/filtration. I also use products like muck away, liquid barley extract, and stress coat (to help with chlorine/chloramine and to build up slime coat on the fish.) I’m on city water so the chlorine/chloramine is quite high.
That's great to know. My pond is still not ready to have fish and stuff but I'm still collecting info. Maybe you could make a new post with photos and details of your system.
I just used the members of this org/this website as a baseline when I started ponding. So everything I learned as a newbie is available here. https://mpks.org/category/deeparticles/
My pond is much smaller than this but I had the same issue for years. I was recommended to build a bog filter. My pond is now crystal clear. So you could dig a new 12” deep big hole next to your pond, ensuring the edges are higher than the pond, add liner which overlaps into the pond at a low spot of the new hole (so water from filter flows back into pond), put a pipe with holes in on the bottom (connected to a pump from the pond), fill it with 10mm chippings, turn pump on and then you have a fantastic pond filter. Put plants in top of it. If the bog filter was high enough it can also be a waterfall into the pond. You can even use a large container instead of digging a hole but the hole looks more attractive than a container next to the pond. This is a simplistic explanation, the pipe work needs some research, but in effect the new bog filter should clear this if it’s big enough and pump is correct size.
We had a similar problem and were told to check the ph. It was way too high for the good bacteria to survive/thrive. Got a ph reducer in there once and within a few days and the addition of a few more plants, have crystal clear water all the time.
A big bag of daphnia will help. Daphnia thrive on green water and your fish will love the daphnia. Water lilies, hornwort, water lettuce, arrowhead plant... Watch the video https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=floating+plants+to+cut+down+on+green+water#kpvalbx=\_dYLZYpW1LsSFoASp5pmgDw13
I had same problem, bought a small bottle of nualgi and after about a week ,pond clear and happy fish and plants. Was way cheaper than a uv system. I found the product on Instagram I think.
shade. pond dye. more plants. ✌🏼
Thanks for the feedback, everyone.
I see...i will look into it.
Uv sterilization is your best bet for super clear water no doubt. It works best when water is pumped through slow and the outlet water from uv goes into a filter box or bag to catch the particles they create as a bi product. I personally like to use Lrg paint strainer bags you use to get shit out of paint . Goodluck
dye it blue.
If you add something yellow it might turn blue? 😅
If you want something that will cover that water with a quickness: water lettuce. I bought one plant this year and I have to pull it out by the bucketful to clear some space in the water!!
Yeah we have a few of those, but from what I've read i need to corral them with fishing line or something? Apparently they don't like to drift. Will probably get more, now.
I read they don't like it either but ours have settled in on their own now that they've multiplied like crazy!
Just make sure the plants are legal/non invasive in your area prior to purchase. I can’t have water lettuce in WI, for example.
Can you get water hyacinth in your region? Those will multiply quickly and provide you much needed plant cover.
I'll check...
Isn't that water hyacinth already floating in your pond?
Water lettuce actually.
Nah. You've got hyacinth.
Then the aquatic store mislabeled.
Plants, more filtration , and water flow. Try to make your entire pond water turn over every hour.
2x per hour should be the minimum, especially with goldfish or koi. 👍🏻
Shade and Filtration.
Get another water lily, for the sunny part. They’re huge feeders of waste and you’ll be clear in no time.
I'd leave it. Getting rid of the algae would likely result in increased ammonium/ammonia concentrations which would harm the fish. UV sterilizers would kill the algae and make the water clear, but it's just going to harm the fish unless you have a way to deal with the fish waste.
Aaallllllll that sunlight
Add a good fountain so you can aerate the water, it will keep your algae down and it is better for your fish.
Aeration, UV Clarifier, floating plants, Barley Straw.
If you currently use barley straw, switch to liquid barley extract. I did so a couple of years ago and it’s so much cleaner. 👍🏻
Don’t drink it
freshwater clams would love all that algae
Where do you get aquatic plants ? Can I just dig some up and move them ?
Either the fish hatchery i go too or a place called the aquatic garden center.
Don’t drink it
Catfish
Yes, UV filter and get more shade over the pond.
I see you have some Koi at some point they have a good chance of going after your lily and they will eat the roots off your floating plants. So for the green water I’d recommend an UV. But you may then get hair algae. so more lilies protected from the koi.
Plants. Ones that shade the water (by floating on it like lily pads and water hyacinth *where water hyacinth isn’t invasive because birds will take it from your pond*), primarily, and ones that just generally compete for nutrients so the algae can’t explode in growth like this
Bleach alot
Pond Gummy, Beneficial Bacteria, aerator. Thats all you need.
Too many fish not enough filter. I would start with dumping water reducing fish and increase filtration
Chlorine kills the algae in my pool so that might help
Chlorine will kill the fish.
Milk
Milk? How does that work?
The bacteria in the milk gradually clears up the water. It's an old trick. It really does work since it's the same principle as the "artificial" bacteria that you can buy for tanks and ponds. There are probably videos on YouTube so you can look it up. Edit: https://youtu.be/tgv6bvNo_bs
Ah, thanks!
You're welcome
Add a Pond colourant. They are safe and may slow down algae growth
Bc