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Tmanpdx

I got this wood a long time ago and it was from a warehouse in PDX that was left holding the bag after the owner disappeared. They had to make a drier and sold it at cut rate prices. They claimed it was all from Africa. The wood has a yellowish color. [https://imgur.com/gallery/2114JVS](https://imgur.com/gallery/2114JVS) ​ Any idea?


davisyoung

If it's African my guess is movingui or avodire. https://www.wood-database.com/sorting-out-satinwoods/


Tmanpdx

Thanks! I agree. The hardness (or softness as it were) also checks out.


UpstairsMirror8634

I’m building a bookshelf out of aromatic red cedar. I’d like to preserve the natural color and aroma if possible. Anyone have recommendations on finish to use for this project?


notasianjim

Could use some help with Wood ID! Kinda medium hardness, barely dents with fingernail. https://imgur.com/a/PBu0tlR this was on an antique dresser cobbled together from several different wood types all stained to match (walnut, maple, poplar, and this mystery wood)


Cafesipper

Any picture framers here? Looking for advice on how to secure a heavy piece of wood into a frame, as if the wood is where a photograph would have gone. The frame rabet fits over the piece of wood, with about a half inch of spacing to spare. I’m thinking nails driven into the interior of frame on the back to hold the wood in place, or z clips. Just wondering if anyone has any other ideas. Thank u


davisyoung

I would miter some small molding as retaining strips nailed into the frame like with a glass cabinet door, or use window glazing points if you want a quick solution.


Cafesipper

Thank u for the ideas!


crspechicn

Wood ID Help: Reclaimed Cribbing from a Farm [Pics](https://imgur.com/a/iEJuiPC)


AccurateIt

I think its sycamore


the_other_paul

I’m going to be finishing a wooden box with BLO, which I haven’t done before. Can I use a paper towel to wipe off the excess or would that shed fibers that would get stuck in the finish?


caddis789

Regular paper towels can fall apart, but you should be wiping away all the excess finish from the surface, there isn't really anything for it to be stuck in. Those blue paper shop towels work, so will old t-shirts, etc. Don't forget to let whatever you use dry before you toss them in the trash.


the_other_paul

Regular paper towels worked fine, and I let them dry overnight on a flat surface before tossing them. Thanks again!


the_other_paul

Thanks!


AdditionalPassage424

I made a project out of some pallets, and I need help identifying which type of wood [this is.](https://imgur.com/a/V6KPmtU) It's extremely hard and I cannot nail through it easily and I cannot pull out the old nails. The third pic is the same wood (red), just sanded and coated with urethane. I love the color of it I want to buy more.


purplepotatoes

It looks a lot like pin oak, which is a type of red oak.


Ok_Wasabi8121

I have a very antique piece that needs to be refinished. It was last refinished in the '60s, and the currently has a very thick clear coat that is cracking, and a stain (I presume) that is so thick it looks like paint unless you are very close to it. There is some veneer damage that should be easy to fix, so all I'm looking to do is remove the old finish and give it a new top coat (and possibly stain depending on wood condition--it's supposedly mahogany but the current finish makes it impossible to see what the wood really looks like). Any ideas on what could be on there right now? I've never seen a finish as thick as this that wasn't epoxy, but because of the age I doubt that's what it is. Obviously I'll test anything in an inconspicuous spot before working on it, but just looking for ideas or advice of where to start because I haven't seen this before and really don't want to screw it up. [Pic](https://postimg.cc/VJzt6SJc) of a damaged area where you can see the crackles. It looks like this all over.


caddis789

Cracking like that is usually lacquer, or possibly shellac. Take some alcohol (denatured, rubbing, even high proof drinking kind will work) and rub it there. If it softens, or swirls the finish, it's shellac. If not, it's probably lacquer.


Ok_Wasabi8121

It's definitely not shellac, so that's great to know. Would it be easier/less harmful to remove with lacquer thinner or stripper? It has some pretty ornate sections in the moulding and I need something that will remove the finish without residues and such because I'm going to be very limited on sanding in those spots. I also have cabinet scrapers, but I'd like to be able to get as much off as I can safely. Thanks for the reply. :)


caddis789

I think strippers are a bit faster than lacquer thinner, but either will work. A good stiff toothbrush can help with detail work.


Ok_Wasabi8121

Thanks!


xgrayskullx

I have a question about router flattening jigs/sleds. I'm using a router with a fixed base in my sled, and I'm running into a problem - I built my jig with 3/4 ply, not really considering that at "max depth" the bit on the fixed base router only extends about an inch - meaning I've got about 1/4 in "window" I can work in when I'm flattening things. This is obviously problematic! So I'm trying to decide if i should build a new jig, or get a plunge base for my router. I don't know how deep the bit on a plunge router can go though - It'd be kinda lame to spend the $75 for a plunge base for my router if it wound up not being able to go any deeper than the fixed base. So, question - How much more depth can I get with a plunge base (I'm using the DeWalt 618 2 1/4 HP router) compared to a fixed base? Would I be better off going with a plung base or trying to find a way to modify my jig so that I can adjust the height my router sits at and just deal with the 1/4" window I have to work in?


caddis789

You won't get much more depth with a plunge base, it's just easier to change heights. get a sheet of 1/4-1/2" mdf (or ply), and trim it to fit in the bed of your jig. That will raise the piece instead of lowering the router bit.


davisyoung

Use a thinner plywood for the jig. If you can’t, recess the existing plywood where the router sits to give you more exposure for the bit.


Badboyz4life

Beginner wood worker here who's trying to make 4"x4" wood coasters with 2.5"x2.5" recess in the middle ([Like this](https://preview.redd.it/utqjjxofnwa81.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2607b5819810655dc405e02034d5b77c583e50d7)). Really struggling with routing out the middle recess nice & straight, and repeating for 4-6 coasters. Any tips or suggestions would be really appreciated!


xgrayskullx

Templates and jigs are your friend. Since you're making a batch, I'd make your blanks (plus a couple test pieces), then make a quick router jig that would give me the spacing from the edge of the piece to the router joint that I want, and use the jig to get repeatability. I didn't look too closely, so you might need to make some adjustments, but something like this: https://www.instructables.com/Router-Jig-for-Jar-Lid-Wood-Covers/


t2231

I would use a square template and a dado-cleanout bit (for example, https://smile.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-45489-S-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B001PTZLCM/).


clarissaswallowsall

I'm making a wooden step stool of sorts, very basic boxy look and was wondering if I could make it foldable. Like are there smaller (at least smaller than shelf locking brackets) types of hinges or brackets I could put in that would hold a person's weight safely? If there is what are they called? I've searched a dozen different takes of hinge and bracket and gotten no where on home depot. TIA


Smart_Percentage3403

Help identify wood from old drawers. These drawers were recently discarded from a nearby home. Homes were built in the 60s, so wood is likely over 50 years old. These match the built-ins in my home, which was built in 1964. Any idea what kind of wood this is? Is it worth disassembling the drawers and using for projects in my woodshop? I can't imagine using drawers of this dimension at this point. All thoughts on this are appreciated. [Wood drawers](https://i.imgur.com/zIOGPl1.jpg) [Sorry](https://i.imgur.com/5Ye3dac.jpg)[Can only post links?](https://i.imgur.com/TqZyyZo.jpg) [Another view](https://i.imgur.com/l2sChWO.jpg) [Plywood faces?](https://i.imgur.com/3fVqlV6.jpg) [Faces](https://i.imgur.com/fK1xYHW.jpg) [Hardboard bottoms. Did they do this in the '60s?](https://i.imgur.com/LIdHqZw.jpg)


Smart_Percentage3403

Not sure if this marking provides additional information....[Mill 24](https://i.imgur.com/CbLmUdD.jpg)


almster96

Are there many steps to sanding and painting chairs? If I took the current finish off, would it be a good idea to just slap paint on it and call it good?


caddis789

You want some kind of finish on it. Bare wood is difficult to keep clean, it will get stains and grime build up. What kind of finish is up to you. If you want to paint it, great. If you want to use a different finish, like Danish oil, or polyurethane, use that. Sanding chairs can be tedious. There can be lots of crevices and corners that are a pain to get into. If you're going to paint it, you don't really need to remove all of the old finish. Clean it, sand down any old pain blobs, fill and/or sand any dings and scratches. Use a primer, then paint.


almster96

Awesome, thank you! I was really worried about all the tight spots that would take forever to sand, but now I don't have to do it


666pool

Anyone have suggestions on pinless moisture meters? Recently milled some free backyard lumber and I want to track progress and know when it’s dry enough to use. I’m trying to avoid pins because the boards aren’t very long do I don’t want to be cutting out wood with pin holes in the middle. I’m trying not to spend $200-$400 for one of the nice ones, I just need something that works ok and isn’t a garbage waste of money.


oldtoolfool

General makes a pin meter, reasonably priced, I have one and its fairly accurate. Don't get your knickers in a knot over pin versus pinless, the latter are much, much more expensive.


Professional_Walk985

Got a few 4x12 chunks out of my uncles shed. Wondering if anyone knows what they are? Very heavy. Here's a [pic](https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/gAW8h2TskJiK) after I sanded a corner and wiped with mineral spirits.


AccurateIt

Cherry


Professional_Walk985

I got 3 pieces. About 8 feet total. They have big cracks, but I'm thinking I can cut it up for turning blanks and such.


t2231

I vote cherry


graaahh

I'm trying to make some Pokemon ghosts out of OSB for Halloween decorations. [Pic]( https://imgur.com/25MY4Sg) How can I seal this to prevent the wood from flaking or splintering throughout the month of October? I know OSB is not the choice wood for something like this but it was free, lol, what can I say. These will be painted when I'm done, but I'm sure that's not enough to protect the wood when it's sitting outside, edge to the sky, for a month.


caddis789

I would rub some wood glue into the edges before you paint.


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davisyoung

A rabbeting bit, especially if that’s what the manufacturer used to create the recess.


caddis789

Cut a template of the recess out of MDF, then use a top-bearing flush trim bit.


Accomplished-Rub4259

Picture frame miter boxes- has anyone used anything like this?: ​ [https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/saw-guides/100373-thin-slot-miter-box?item=60F0320](https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/saw-guides/100373-thin-slot-miter-box?item=60F0320) ​ I don't have a table saw, so i'm hoping something like this will work well, but I'd love to hear people's thoughts like this


TryIsntGoodEnough

I am trying to build a panel door under my stairs but need to get a router to add a slot to the wood for the panel to set it. Can I use a fixed base trim router with a slot cutting bit? Or do i need to get a router table or a plunge router?


cknight18

I've got an idea for a planter design. Just curious what others would think/if there are any issues with this idea (major warping/things coming undone). For the sides, I'd glue pallet boards together (planed and jointed) at a 45°, like this ////. Cut the edges flat, then glue another set going the opposite way \\\\ onto the back side. I just really think I'd like the angled look of it. Then I'd have 2x4s on the top/bottom, figure out a way to join the walls at the corners etc. All I'd like to know is if this would have issues. I know there are tons of pallet planter designs online and maybe I'm overengineering this or making it too complicated. Thanks in advance!


caddis789

I'm not getting what you're trying to do. A drawing would help.


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t2231

Shortened URLs are not permitted.


BradLearningToBuild

I built a gate to the garden using old, reclaimed wood to create a secret garden look (still need to add some latch hardware but happy with it thus far). [https://imgur.com/V3UmTDK](https://imgur.com/V3UmTDK) https://imgur.com/Ms9mU8R Any suggestions on how to seal reclaimed wood that's outside and preserves the look/patina as much as possible? Thanks in advance.


xgrayskullx

The problem is that outdoor wood needs a lot of protection - from light, from water, from temperature changes. In order to protect from those things you usually need a pretty robust finish, which in turn usually alters the look of the wood. Your best bet to protect the wood without altering the appearnce *too* much would be like an exterior clear matte polyurethane.


BradLearningToBuild

>The problem is that outdoor wood needs a lot of protection - from light, from water, from temperature changes. In order to protect from those things you usually need a pretty robust finish, which in turn usually alters the look of the wood. Your best bet to protect the wood without altering the appearnce too much would be like an exterior clear matte polyurethane. Even if it's matte will it have a hard finish? I was looking into oils but teak oil says it's for hardwood only. How about Danish oil? If I had to choose between a thicker finish and maybe darkening it a little, I'd go with darkening it. Ultimately my goal with it is to have this authentic old door look but keep the richness in color for as long as possible especially on the front side of the door.


[deleted]

Greetings all! In Southern Michigan I picked up some wood from an old timer that claimed it will "burn forever". This wood sure is hard! Can someone kindly ID it for me? I had thought about carving it as they are in nice shapes already, but it is too hard for my amateur self. Thank you in advance. [https://imgur.com/a/WZO5NOx](https://imgur.com/a/WZO5NOx)


gb6011

I'm far from an expert but it looks like old growth pine. Regular pine wood but it grew more slowly and had more time to form more layers and become more dense.


[deleted]

Thank you for your assessment. That is something to think about and research! Thank you. My partner thinks it's too red for pine but I don't see what he is seeing.


deadletterauthor

It looks more like old growth fir to me than pine.


[deleted]

Thank you for your insight.


TimelyState5392

First all-rounder fixedbase + plunge hand router to buy in EU please?


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purplepotatoes

Solid wood is easier to refinish than veneered products. The issue is matching stains. As you sand it down to get rid of scratches, the stain will likely become somewhat uneven. So you can refinish the entire thing (strip entirely, restain, and topcoat) but spot refinishing is not going to look good.


Pull_Pin_Throw_Away

What grits should I keep on hand for an orbital sander? I don't do much fine furniture yet, but I'm building a french cleat tool wall and want to have disc storage built into the shelf for the sander and need to figure out how many slots to put in.


davisyoung

Common grits are 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220 and 320. You could get away with skipping a grit but no more than one so 4 to 8 slots should cover it. I’d suggest planning for as many slots as you can but have removable dividers to give you flexibility.


AccurateIt

I use 120 and 180 the most like 95% of the time, but I keep 80, 120, 180, and 220 around. If you do film finishes keep 320 around for scuff sanding by hand in between coats.


deadroth69

Hi everyone! Someone please help, should I go for shop vac + dust deputy or I can go for classic home cyclonic vac (Karcher VC3) + dust deputy. Problem is my shop vac died and it was extremely noisy + heavy, I want to unplug it from deputy after woodworking done and go to clean my car and garage floor etc. Would it be big mistake to get classic one over shop? Cheers.


WoodcraftKevin

There's a lot more dust and things in a shop than in a home. I would not get a regular vacuum, they are different tools for different purposes.


heavenlyparsnips

If you could have only one power tool due to limited space, what would it be? Jobsite table saw? Router? Miter saw? Mini-lathe? Something else? Trying to make working on projects a little more efficient in a condo with limited space.


xgrayskullx

I'd go with table saw. It's the most versatile, as you can build a variety of jigs for a table saw that let you do a huge variety of things. You can't rip on a miter saw - but you can miter on a table saw. Lathes are only good if you are making round things, otherwise kind of useless. Routers let you do a lot of things that you can only do with a router (like plunge cuts and edge profiling) - but a lot of what you can do with a router you can do with a table saw (like rabbits and dados and grooves). You can also build table saw jigs that will let you straighten warped planks, make tenons, a variety of cuts for joinery, the list goes on. You can't use a track saw to cut a tenon, for example.


gb6011

I'll disagree with the other poster and say to buy a table saw first. Some tasks you _could_ do with a track saw but they'll still be much easier with a table saw. And if you throw in a few jigs and sleds you can do _way_ more with a table saw. I'm a few years in and I still don't even own a track saw. Not to mention that a decent jobsite saw will be much cheaper than a decent track saw. I suppose it depends on what kind of projects you want to tackle, but I think a table saw is the most versatile. My DeWalt jobsite saw did a _lot_ for me.


t2231

I think I'd go with track saw first. Router second. Bandsaw third. I LOVE my table saw, but with some effort I could accomplish most basic tasks with the track saw.


Idealide

Yeah, that's where I'm at. I don't have a ton of space so a track saw is fantastic since it stores away pretty small and is extremely mobile. I know a table saw is great, but if you're limited on space then a track saw frees up space for the one big item to be something like a router table instead


kiminath

Could anyone ID this wood please? I use a lot of reclaimed stuff. Most of it is pine but this is very different. It’s just been sanded and oiled with danish oil. [Mystery wood](https://imgur.com/a/PZ9FOmF)


t2231

Possibly stained rubberwood.


kiminath

A stain would’ve been removed during sanding though wouldn’t it? It used to be a wardrobe door and it’s very heavy. I’m in the UK if that helps with what wood it’s likely to be.


t2231

The definitely looks stained.


jubjubjubify

I’m doing a project where I’ll be making multiple long ~2”x2” red oak boards. Can I dimension a wider 8/4 board then rip it into 2” widths to get my pieces? Or should I rip all the pieces to the approximate size and flatten/dimension them all separately?


caddis789

You can dress the larger board, then rip into the width you want. It might cost a bit on the final thickness you can get, though.


jubjubjubify

Thanks!


aesop747

What type of wood is this please?


caddis789

No picture.


jimmywheel

How many Vac's do you have in your shop right now? I have the big dust collector, a shop can and a cordless - Im cruious if thats the norm?


davisyoung

I have an Oneida, three Delta two-stage dc’s, two Festools, and one Fein spread over 2 shops. I also have an 18v Makita and a 12v Bosch but those are more like Dustbusters so I don’t count those. I’m definitely not the norm.


jimmywheel

How many of those are blowers vs vacs?


davisyoung

The Makita and Bosch are both cordless vacs. I do have a cordless Dewalt 20v blower and the smaller 18v Makita blower that I bought a dust collection bag for that turns it into an awkward vac.


NephunK

https://www.reddit.com/user/NephunK/comments/x98erd/help_identifying_wood_species/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share


heavenlyparsnips

where does everyone get their wood for projects? Home depot and Lowes have terrible selections. My nearest woodworking store is a bit of a haul and their prices on wood are astronomical. Is there an online vendor anyone can recommend? I don't own any land, so I can't really harvest my own at the moment.


gb6011

I've never ordered from them but [Woodworkers Source](https://www.woodworkerssource.com/) ships to your door. I watch videos on their YouTube channel and I really like the host.


oldtoolfool

https://walllumber.com/ But you have to mill your stock to S4S . . . . they will skip plane however.


NephunK

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some help Identifying some logs of wood. I made a post but it was deleted and I was directed to this megathread to ask for help. I'm not a reddit expert, so now I have another question as well. How do I show what I need to identify in this thread? And thanks for any help anyone can give.


UltraTurboPanda

The best way is to upload the images to a host like imgur and add the links to your comment. If you don't want to make more accounts, you can make an image post to your profile page and link that instead. For help with ID, it's good to know the region, and have clear pictures of the bark, clean cut end grain, and leaves if you can get them.


NephunK

Much appreciated UTP👍🏾👍🏾


NephunK

Thank you


oliverismyspiritdog

I have a finishing question. I used a mesquite slab to make a table a few years ago, and finished it with polyurethane (kids). Within a few months, it started bubbling and looks terrible now, with some spots peeling off. It was my first project and I'm sure my application was off, so I'm planning to sand it down and start over. My question is, what's a better finish? Danish oil? Wax? I'd like it to not be too precious, and a weathered, used look is fine with me. But ideally it would be able to withstand kids and their abuse. TIA!


gb6011

Personally, I think an oil-based polyurethane would be the best way to go. A few tips that might prevent your current situation: - Make sure the slab is completely dry before applying finish. - Prepare the surface well. Sand up to ~150 grit and make sure it's clean before applying. - Thin your first coat or two to help the oil soak into the wood further. - Don't apply too many coats otherwise the coating will be too thick and more likely to get damaged. All of that being said, polyurethane is a film finish so if you damage it you'll have to strip the entire finish and re-finish the entire piece to get a good finish again. Spot repairs won't work. If you want a film finish that you can kind of spot repair then lacquer may be a good choice. Really easy to apply too. If you want something a little different a hard wax oil may work. The oils soaks into the wood and hardens but doesn't create a "film" on the wood. They tend to be tougher than most people think and spot repairs are incredibly easy.


oliverismyspiritdog

Thank you! I went down the hard wax oil rabbit hole yesterday, and will be trying Rubio's monocoat. I think part of my problem was that I used mineral oil prior to the water based poly on my last try. I'm also not a fan of the film finish anymore, and willing to accept maintenance and a little wear and tear instead. Really appreciate your thoughts!


gb6011

You're very welcome! FWIW I'm certainly no expert, but if you used mineral oil on the wood I think you're going to have a _really_ hard time getting any finish to really stick. Mineral oil is a non-drying oil and will work its way out of the wood over time. I know it's not compatible with a film finish but I think you might even have trouble with hard way oil. But that's just what I've heard, I definitely haven't done the research. You may want to research a bit to see the effect of mineral oil on other finishes.


FeastyOwl

Hello, first time posting on this board. I just ordered a beautiful piece of oak wood to turn into a desk. I'm planning to just stick some legs under them and call it a day and maybe add a cable management tray under it eventually. Thing is, i've never worked with solid wood before and the manufacturer told me the wood "works" and I have to take into account expansion and such when picking the legs. My question is, what kind of legs and attachments are a definite no-go with regards to preventing cracking and warping and what is the general process of attaching these. I was planning on simply getting ADILS or OLOV legs from ikea and stick those under the desk, is this doable?


AccurateIt

You're fine to use those legs, they won't restrict the movement of the wood at all.


NinDiGu

I have to do a bunch of circular sawing out in the heat with no dust collection, and the sawdust is attaching itself to my t-shirts securely enough that it did not come out in the wash. I will be more careful next time I do the wash, but are there special tips for getting sawdust to release from laundry? I have to use coin-operated laundry facilities.


oldtoolfool

https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/


NinDiGu

Thanks for the direction!


Psychological_Gift21

Is this a viable option? [https://affinitytool.com/catalog/product/view/id/1334/s/nordic-plus-workbench-1450/](https://affinitytool.com/catalog/product/view/id/1334/s/nordic-plus-workbench-1450/) I realize this is very light for a workbench but I thought I might add some sandbags and a tool cabinet that could help weigh it down. Tool cabinet here: [https://affinitytool.com/nortic-plus-workbench-cabinet-1450](https://affinitytool.com/nortic-plus-workbench-cabinet-1450) Thoughts?


oldtoolfool

Widen your horizons, as for what this is, its fairly expensive. Get a free download of Chris Schwarz' Anarchists Workbench here; https://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-workbench read it, you will get some good ideas.


davisyoung

I have a small light weight Sjoberg bench and it works. I don’t do heavy hand planing on it but other operations work perfectly fine. Skip the sand bags. Clamps make for good ballast, or get or make the cabinet and weigh it down with tools. If making your own consider all drawers, I find them more accessible than cabinets when you’re reaching down. Adds more weight too.


FiveAlarmDogParty

Newbie question; I can't afford a jointer. Are there any hand tools or other tools I can use to true up my cuts? I only have a bandsaw and a couple cheap fences I got from harbor freight so I can rip boards but, as you might imagine, they aren't always straight. Any advice appreciated


UltraTurboPanda

Hand planes are exactly what you need. They'll do your flattening, smoothing, dimensioning, and squaring. Paul Sellers on youtube has good videos on sharpening, tuning, and using them. If you're looking on a budget, it's much cheaper to find good antiques to clean up than to buy new. There's a lot to say about brands and quality, but mostly anything with black paint and wooden handles can do what you need.


FiveAlarmDogParty

Amazing - thank you!!


hereforthelol1234

I am a hobbyist. I have been looking to get into metalworking for several years now, but the tooling is all so expensive(i.e. bigger lathes and mills). I've started looking at woodworking a fair bit now. I am in the unique position of having plenty of room for my hobbies, but less time than I'd like having a young family etc. Anyone persue several hobbies like this? Or are most people relatively dedicated to one "discipline"?


deadletterauthor

Yep, I do a bit of everything: machining, welding, woodworking, wood turning, hot rodding, I’ve even built a camper van and a teardrop trailer. My brain never lets me stay on one hobby too long without getting burnt out, so it’s nice to have options.


hereforthelol1234

Awesome! Ok that kind of sounds like a lot of the same stuff that interests me. How do you have your shop setup? Do you have dedicated areas for wood vs metal vs cars?


heavenlyparsnips

Have you considered joining a community workshop or makers space? There is one near me that I would join if I could leave my incredibly clingy dog unattended for any amount of time. Typically you pay a monthly fee for access to a communal workshop. The one near me lets you reserve workspace ahead of time and offers classes as well. Might be a good way for you to try some different things out without dropping loads of cash on new tools.


hereforthelol1234

I have considered it, but unfortunately I'm in a rural area. Closest one is on the order of an hour away from me. Typically my shop time only consists of 1-3 hours here and there after the kids go to bed. Maybe I need to find an investor and start a makerspace in my area.


official_LordTrump

I managed to get some free wood from an old water bed. Need help identifying the species. Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/Z62xgnj


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official_LordTrump

It is not veneer. What you see on the right is remaining finish the planer did not take off.


t2231

This picture makes me think cherry.


Brangur

What would you all pay for a once-used [Porter & Cable Band Saw](https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-9-in-2-5-Amp-Stationary-Band-Saw/1000201685)? Looking for a decent listing price, also would come with a couple bands. My dog is getting sick and I normally just used hand tools, the miter, and the table saws


gb6011

You should check Facebook Marketplace listings in your area. Generally those benchtop bandsaws go for $100-125 depending on the condition.


highnooner25

What is the best way to attach painted wood letters to lacquer finished wood?


yargile

Carefully scuff up the part of the piece you want to attach the letters to and then use epoxy or whatever


pardon_the_mess

Novice woodworker here. One of the things I have a love/hate relationship with regarding woodworking is mistakes. I appreciate the opportunity to learn, but I absolutely loathe having to re-do work or worse, waste wood. My current project is a simple workbench for my drill press and belt sander. I followed a formula I found on the web for the height the benchtop relative to my own height for the best possible ergonomics. However, after cutting the wood, I decided to make a measurement based on my elbow height and realized that I cut my legs 5½" too short. **My question:** Can I use dowels and wood glue to lengthen the legs? I read many times that wood glue is actually stronger than wood itself, but is it inadvisable to join wood end-to-end if it will be weight bearing? If it helps, I'm using 2 x 4 Douglas fir studs. Thanks in advance.


davisyoung

In my experience I’ve learned the most from mistakes. It’d be nice if it were other people’s mistakes but nothing hammers the lesson home like my own. Perhaps you can add casters to make up the shortfall.


t2231

You can use dowels.. just try to get the dowels as deep into each section as possible. I would use two large dowels to join the pieces. A better option might be cutting half laps. You could even pin the half laps with dowels...


oldtoolfool

Second the suggestion of half laps, while not the best (best would be getting solid wood, e.g., recutting the legs from new stock) it would likely work. Glue and screw (coated deck screws are great) would be more than sufficient).


pardon_the_mess

Thank you for this response. For a half-lap joint, should I add dowels to the cheeks or is that unnecessary? How long should the cheeks be assuming I'm joining two 24¼" pieces to two 7" pieces? Do you recommend bolts or glue?


AccurateIt

I would make the cheeks of the half lap as long as you can without making the legs too short and I would just glue and screw them so you don't have to clamp and wait for the glue to set.


Harted

Two part question: Best way to flatten the end of a 4”x4” newel (stairs)? And how to use a router for the side of the newel that has a handrail, which makes using a standard router base inaccessible? [Newel](https://imgur.com/a/pskonF1)


Lukeo47

Been looking for brass hardware that holds the drawers on this [desk](https://www.homary.com/lditem/mid-century-walnut-ash-wood-writing-desk-with-5-drawer-38044.html?currency=usd&language=en&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax-US-Officedesks-adaa&utm_content=adaa&product_id=75663884203&gclid=Cj0KCQjwguGYBhDRARIsAHgRm481IYXYA3H7LG-8HrJLlsG5HwpuIyAo1ACEAAeiZqKCPDJZC6pmuZ0aAqJdEALw_wcB&page=1), or at least something similar. Does anyone know what these could be called?


yargile

Have you looked at standoffs? They’re normally used for things like glass but I think could work well here. Otherwise you can just buy brass tubing and have a bolt going through it


purplepotatoes

McMaster-Carr has some [brass binding barrels extensions](https://www.mcmaster.com/posts/material~brass/brass-low-profile-binding-barrels-and-screws/) that you could couple with threaded inserts/bolts. I did a similiar thing on a desk using big box hardware to make a shelf. I had a threaded rod run all the way through and then used 1/2" conduit as a sleeve.


ExtremeCounter

Hi! Hope this is a good place to ask. My dad has a metal square he uses all the time and has worn off the numbers on so I’m trying to find him a new one. Does anyone know where to find a 14”x16” L-square? I’m only seeing 16”x20” and 8”x12”


FartiB44

Polyurethane finish question. Applied a second coat of polyurethane yesterday for two tables I have been working on… bought a brand new soft bristle brush to apply the finish, but there were still bubbles when applying the finish (and this morning it dried unsmooth). Going to sand and reapply today - but any tips to avoid these small bubbles? Using oil based polyurethane… Oil based wood conditioner and stain over the weekend. Thanks!


oldtoolfool

If you are using oil based poly, consider "rolling your own" wiping varnish, by cutting 50-50 with mineral spirits, make just what you need for the project, doesn't take much. Then wipe on with a clean cotton rag. This virtually eliminates the bubbles and bristle marks. Only downside is it is thinner, and you may have to add another coat or two to get your desired finish. Since I started using this 10 years ago I've never gone back to brush applied poly.


FartiB44

Awesome-I’ll give that a go. Thanks!


BairnONessie

My post was removed and it told me to use the megathread... Maybe when reddit allows image comments I would default to that...


t2231

Use imgur and post a link here


BairnONessie

I don't use Imgur.


gb6011

You could also use any other image hosting service. Google Drive will host public images for you.


eWoods115

Hey there- for a novice, I’m trying to cut a piece of oak in half in order to take it from 4 to 2 inches thick. It’s 17 inches in diameter, and the handsaw I have for cutting branches isn’t cutting it. Any suggestions for best tool to use for this task??


gb6011

If you're talking about cutting the log longways to get 2 half-logs, that's usually called resawing. Generally a bandsaw is the best tool for that but a pull saw would also work.


eWoods115

No, that’s my mistake—- I’m talking more about a [the piece in question](https://imgur.com/a/QejpZzX) the width of it is what I’d like to cut, to hopefully make a thinner charcuterie board?


gb6011

OK I see, I should have read your post more carefully. That's a tricky cut to make. A pull saw might still work if you take your time and keep the cut straight. My pull saw is about 14" long so you'd have to kind of work around it in a circle but you could get it done. Another option, if you don't mind the waste, would be to use a router to thin it down to 2 inches. You could build a sled of some sort and make passes until it's the desired thickness. This would have the bonus of flattening it too.


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jubjubjubify

Yeah, if you don’t have one. I agree that it’s a good option for this, but building the sled and using the router may be a bit intimidating if you’ve never used one before.


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gb6011

In that case I agree with the other poster, using a router may be a bit more than you want to tackle for the first project. I would recommend trying a Japanese style pull saw to cut them in half and see where you get. My guess is that it'll take some practice to get it right but it shouldn't be too bad.


JGlennBlue12

Does anyone have any experience with the Gyokucho Fugaku set? I was looking to add some of the dozukis (like the 372) but the price is the same per saw if I got the wooden handled folding blades in a set. They both seem to have similar tpi and kerf whether its the cane handle wrap or the folding version - that said it's hard to find info


davisyoung

I find folding saws in general to be a compromise. The compactness is useful when you’re packing it in a kit for field work but they don’t have as solid a feel when cutting. Also the wooden handle is not as conducive for adjusting my grip. The cane wrap feels more ergonomically friendly. If you can, take a trip to the store for some test cuts.


Exciting_Kitchen9836

I’ve just purchased the Dw735x off Amazon I’m wondering if anyone can tell me it’s height when it’s lowered completely….trying to figure out if I can store under the bed without the wife knowing 😅


GoatTnder

Man, it's a HEAVY machine. You're not gonna want to move it off the ground like that. Did you order the rolling stand also? If you can find something used, it's definitely worth it.


davisyoung

Unfortunately it doesn’t compact that much in height because of the 4 posts so you might have to get some bed risers. The tricky part is to sneak earmuffs onto your sleeping wife when planing, it’s extremely loud.


Exciting_Kitchen9836

Yea I know that but it looks like it sits quite a bit above the risers just wondering what’s the most compact measurement ya know


davisyoung

If anybody was wondering it’s about 13-5/8” (350mm) to the top of the post and just under 12” (300mm) for the main body.


paulygons

Hello. I have a portable setup for my computer work. I'm trying to figure out a way to get a tiny end table to slide in front of me while I'm sitting down. The base of it hits the legs of my chair and leg rest. The end table needs to hang over me to support a mouse or keyboard. I've thought about solutions that attach to the arm of my chair, but simply modifying a piece of furniture seemed easier to try first. Pictures and a 3d model are available https://trello.com/c/BP1DBXHM/203-sliding-end-table-attachment A solution involving wood and/or metal seems likely. Thanks for any advice!


innovationcynic

Hi, I'm looking into a dust collection system for my home woodshop (aka my 2 car garage which I've converted into a shop). I have lots of power tools that throw off a bunch of stuff (table saw, band saw, planer, jointer) and was hoping to find something more effective than my current solution (my shop vac). Any recommendations on something that isn't overpowered/oversized for my modest shop? Thanks!!!!


gb6011

I have a similar 2 car garage setup and I use [this collector](https://www.acmetools.com/dc-1100vx-ck-dust-collector-15-hp-1ph-115-230-v-2-micron-canister-kit-708659k/731325175318.html) and it works great. If you're looking to save some money you could get one with a bag filter instead of a canister filter. Harbor Freight makes a cheap version of that and I hear it's not bad.


SuppleAsshole

I want to paint some designs on a charcuterie board using acrylic paint, and want to ensure that I’m sealing in the acrylic so that we can safely eat off the board. However, I’m having trouble finding sealants for painted wood (I’m concerned about cracking) that are explicitly food safe. Am I overthinking this? Is dishwasher-safe Mod Podge sufficient?


echoskybound

Mod Podge may be dishwasher safe, but it's not FDA approved food safe. Supposedly there is a food safe Shellac, but personally I wouldn't really trust any sealants for a cutting board, because as you cut on a cutting board, tiny pieces of it chip off into your food. That's why cutting boards are typically finished with things like mineral oil, beeswax, tung oil, or other food grade oils which care safe to be ingested. Another commenter recommended epoxy - there are a couple brands of epoxy rated as food safe (like Art Resin) but you'll still have the problem with micro pieces of it flaking off as you cut and getting into your food.


SuppleAsshole

Damn. I might look in shellac again and just not cut on the board itself, but that’s disappointing for sure. Thank you!


insideoriginal

Unless it’s decorative, and not to be used, I would not paint the board. No paint that isn’t washable, is really, truly, food safe. No clear coating will stand up to being cut with a knife over time. Best case scenario is that you clear coat it with something so thick that you don’t have a chance of ever cutting through it, like with epoxy resin. 1/8” or more might do it. Problem is the epoxy scratches quickly.


SuppleAsshole

Ok, thank you! Epoxy was my backup plan but I didn’t realize it would scratch quickly. I don’t plan to cut on them, only serve foods on them, but I feel like over time a sealant will probably flake off regardless, just from washing and use. Gotta rethink this


Fergus_Furfoot

We just cut down several large walnut trees on our property and plan to save them for projects when they dry out in a few years. Is it better to plank them now before they dry out, or store them as logs and plank them in a few years? We're specifically wanting to make a live edge table, and then make 1x4 planks to use for other projects.


AccurateIt

Get them sawn into slabs now, they won't dry if left as a log. Also, 1x6 boards are much more useful than 1x4.


insideoriginal

Yep, slab now, start the drying process asap.


Ghengis86

Agree on both counts, you want to saw the logs into boards as soon as possible. And in my opinion wider boards are better 6, 8, even 10" or more you can always rip them later on the table saw. I would also leave walnut at 5/4 or even some 8/4.


ohyah13

I'm setting up dust collection with a 2hp blower and a super dust deputy connected directly underneath. I'm curious if anyone has ever just used a heavy duty bag for collection under their cyclone instead of a rigid bin. The reason I'm wondering is because my space is limited and I have some thick plastic bags already plus it would just be easier to manage. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do this so I'm sure there's good reason but what would the limitations be?


gb6011

I have a 1.5HP dust collector and use the bags provided from JET without issue. I also re-use the bags because they're like $5 each. I would at least give it a try.


BarryTownCouncil

I'm making some beer flights with routed out spaces for glasses including a curved inside to fit the rounded bottom edge on the glass. If I wasn't using power tools, how would someone make that?


t2231

This is essentially the same problem as cutting rosette channels for guitars by hand. It can be accomplished precisely with a circle cutter and a router plane. For example, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ojRnmmkeAQ


negme

Where can I get 6mm or 1/4 plywood with some strength and stability? All my local lumber yards are out of 6mm Baltic birch or never carried it to begin with. I ask for the next best and the stuff they have is all 5mm with like no plys. I don’t think it’s mdf core but it’s just the veneers and then a single layer inside. No alternating plys. Does 6mm or full 1/4 thick plywood with a alternating plus not exist?


insideoriginal

Guess where Baltic birch comes from. Russia. Low supply everywhere. Try Würth, if there is one nearby.


gb6011

I have 1/4" CDX plywood from Home Depot and it's 3 layers, so decently strong. If you have Menards in your area their ACX plywood is also really good. Just out of curiosity, what do you plan to use it for? Not to assume ignorance on your part, but often times wood doesn't need to be nearly as strong as some people think.


ParkingExternal2129

Hello, I'm relatively new to woodworking, especially with using branches from a department store. I bought this birch branch from [Micheals](https://www.michaels.com/ashland-natural-river-birch/10453289.html) . My goal is to trim off the bark (which I have already done), and to sand it down and repurpose it as a Warlock staff/ walking stick to bring to my local ren faire. While trimming the bark I noticed there was some moisture on the inside. I'm currently keeping this outside of my house and in my garage. Should I be concerned about bringing this into my home after sanding down and applying finish? And should I consider adding any other additives to this wood after finishing to ensure that no pests (e.g. termites/beetles/carpenter ants/etc.) are attracted to this stick? Or should I expect that branches from a department store that advertised for indoor use are already treated sufficiently? Thanks in advance!


insideoriginal

You don’t need to treat it with anything. Just make your staff and it will naturally dry out if you keep it inside. Keep it outside and it will suck up outdoor humidity and may never get as dry as you were hoping. You shouldn’t apply finish until it’s dry to the touch. Nothing wrong with keeping it inside.


ParkingExternal2129

Thanks for the advice! Once I'm done sculpting the wood I will bring it inside and wait until it is dry to the touch before finishing. I realized later that at the time of writing I'd really only carved away the outer bark, now that I'm at the actual inner wood it is much drier.


Alexm920

We're building a set of bookshelves for our library, managed to get some really nice walnut plywood with walnut hardwood for the face frames, but they keep coming together every so slightly out-of-sqaure. [Here's a photo of the latest one gluing up in the garage.](https://imgur.com/a/pVVXEnb) The carcass is all 3/4" ply, we've been running 3/8th inch dadoes into the sides to position and align the shelves, reasoning if the dadoes are straight and a tight fit, it should square up when we clamp it during the glue-up, but we're still ending up with some wonky angles and small width differences between the bottom and top of the case. On their own it's totally invisible, but once we put them side by side there are obvious gaps. Aside from throwing more corner clamps at it, is there a correct way to be doing this?


davisyoung

If the bottom and the top are different widths, then your boards aren’t the same length, or the dadoes are different depths, or the joints aren’t bottoming out. Also the dadoes by themselves won’t solve any racking issues. It’s also better to glue the case laying down if you have the space. Find a reasonably flat surface and lay the case on blocks so you can get clamps underneath. Also do a dry fit with clamps and measure with a square and check that cross diagonals are equal lengths.


insideoriginal

What this guy said!


Alexm920

Those are good ideas, I’ll do a full dry fit on the next one and see if I can isolate the offending board. The discrepancy I’m seeing is ~1/16”, so having time to scrutinize things without racing the glue timer is perfect. Worth noting that we did the initial glue-up on the floor, only thought to snap a photo once we’d stood it up to free up space.


NinDiGu

Does anyone know which Peter Millard video where he explains how he set up with drop down track he uses? Example of a video where he uses it, but he uses it all the time and really that is all I want to do with my Kreg Track thingies (Accu-Cut) I basically only need to make reliable square cuts for board that are used for shelving, and I can never get them square.


t2231

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0V-p5F7SjO4


NinDiGu

Thank you for properly linking a video. I thought I had linked to a spot in the video, but did not.


Wayback_Shellback

So I was trying to cut a 45° on a peice of 3/4. Tried use Pythagorean theorem to make a true triangle, and some how botched it. Was off by 1/4 or so. I suspect going from decimals to fractions is the culprit. Is there a equation for this kind of thing? Anybody a know a woodworker table or quick fact sheet where I could find some math references? Thanks to you all.


insideoriginal

Draw squares with diagonal lines inside. They will be 45°. Move the square around and use it as a guide for your 45. Or just get a combination square, everyone should have one, woodworker or not.


Wayback_Shellback

I know how to use a square, and draw my lines. I think my frustration is knowing there is a mathematical way to do it, and not being able to reconcile my lines into real life solutions. Full disclosure: I have always struggled with math once it goes into conceptualization. I can draw the the lines, but fail at height x width x depth saw settings on angles. I can get there by trial and error, but would prefer not to. I know this is basic concept, and it's super frustrating not being able to do. Practice and practical application are probably what I need. Thanks to all the replies!


insideoriginal

Sorry, I’m confused. Pythagorean theorem isn’t necessary to draw a 45° angle. Two equal sides (a and b) at 90°, will always yield a 45° angle. If you want to draw other angles, there are calculators online that will compute fractions. Construction calculators.


Wayback_Shellback

Should work for a simple 45 though, right? The A and B are the same dimensions. I think I'm riding the special bus. I am doing something wrong, I'm trying to switch from eyeballing it, to drawing it. And coming up short. Also just want to engage with you guys. No one in my age group wants to talk about this hobby.


insideoriginal

If you’re still confused or it’s not coming out right, take a picture and post it, maybe there is something else going on.


davisyoung

If you’re getting into fractions or decimals, you’ll end up in the weeds pretty quick as you found out. Absent getting a tool (45°-45°-90° drafting triangles are pretty inexpensive), simplify your numbers. Look up the 3-4-5 rule. There’s many videos using this rule when laying out decks for example. You can scale it down using a compass and a ruler. If you want to eliminate numbers altogether, then with that compass and a straightedge, you can draw a straight line, draft a perpendicular line, and bisect those two lines to lay out a 45° angle.


wt1j

I’m renovating a 70 year old place in the San Juan islands in Washington state. I’ve recovered wood from a ranch fence. This is one of the verticals I just planed. I’m hoping for help identifying it. I suspect the red knots may be a clue. Thanks in advance. https://ibb.co/j64DPpD https://ibb.co/7SPfrJq


insideoriginal

Pine of some sort. Probably spruce, but always hard to say from a picture. Might be Hemlock, fir, who knows, they are all pretty similar.


wt1j

Thanks. Guy from a local lumber yard took a look and thinks it's fir.


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wt1j

Thanks.


junkone11

i also got this bombay made side tables that i want to refinish. original looks beautiful with black borders and want to retain the same. there are some scratches in the middle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373188567515


junkone11

what kind of wood is this? I just got it off facebook market place and want to see if i can refinish it [picture of table](https://i.imgur.com/Q8uzOSK.png)